\9 


^ 


V 


"-> 


^^.-^i^' 


.s^ 


^ 


w 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


.V 


1.0 


1.1 


11.25 


2.0 


»   1^ 


FhotogFaphic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


37 


^. 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRliT 

WEBSTn,N.Y.  145M 

(716)«72-4S03 


.«*^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIViH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Instituta  for  Historical  IMicroraproductions  /  Inatitut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  hiatoriquaa 


Tachnieai  and  Bibilographie  Notaa/Notaa  taehniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  tO  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographicaliy  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  iha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproductlon.  or  which  may  aignificantly  ohanga 
tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  ehaekad  balow. 


□    Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  eoulaur 


rn   Covara  damagad/ 


D 
D 


D 


D 


D 


D 


Couvartura  andommag^a 

Covara  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raataur^a  at/ou  pallieuMa 

Covar  titia  miaaing/ 

La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


rn   Coloured  mapa/ 


Cartaa  gAographiquaa  91%  eoulaur 


Colourad  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Enere  da  eoulaur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


r~n   Coloured  platee  and/or  llluatrationa/ 


Planchee  et/ou  iliuatrationa  en  eoulaur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
RelM  ^vec  d'autree  documenta 


rj]    Tight  binding  may  eauae  ahadowa  or  diatortion 


along  interior  mergin/ 

La  re  liure  terr*e  pout  eauaer  do  I'ombre  ou  do  la 

diatoraion  l«  long  da  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  laavaa  added  during  reatoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  poaaibla.  theae 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  aa  paut  que  certainea  pagea  blanehea  ajoutiaa 
lore  d'une  reatauration  apparaiaaent  dana  la  texte. 
meia,  loraqua  cela  dtait  poaaibla.  cea  pagea  n'ont 
pea  M  filmiaa. 

Additional  commenta:/ 
Commantairaa  supplimantairaa; 


L'inatltut  a  microfilm*  la  mailieur  enemplaira 
qu'll  lui  e  At*  poaaibla  da  to  procurer.  Lea  d*tail« 
do  cot  eaempleire  qui  aont  peut-*tre  uniquea  du 
poim  da  vue  bibliogrephique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  imege  reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  eniger  une 
modification  dana  la  mithode  normele  de  f ilmaga 
aont  indiquAa  ci-dae'  oua. 


|~~1   Coloured  pagee/ 


Pagee  de  eoulaur 

Pagea  damaged/ 
Pagea  endommeg*ea 

Pagea  raatorad  and/01 

Pagea  reetauriaa  at/ou  pellicuiAea 

Pagea  diacoiourad,  atainad  or  foxei 
Pagea  dicoioriea.  tachatiea  ou  piquAaa 

Pagee  detached/ 
Pagea  d*tach*aa 

Showthrough/ 
Tranaparence 

Quality  of  prin 

Qualiti  inigete  de  I'impreaaion 

Includaa  aupplamentary  materii 
Comprend  du  material  auppMmantaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  diaponible 


r^  Pagea  damaged/ 

|~~1  Pagea  raatorad  and/or  laiT«inated/ 

r~3  Pagea  diacoiourad,  atainad  or  foxed/ 

r~~\  Pegee  detached/ 

rri  Showthrough/ 

rn  Quality  of  print  variea/ 

rn  Includaa  aupplamentary  materiel/ 

rn  Only  edition  available/ 


Th«e 
totiN 


Thqii 
poool 
ofttw 


OHglf 


tiMlal 
aion. 


firttp 

alon, 

oriNu 


TImM 
ahaN 
TINU 
wMef 


D 


Pagea  wholly  or  partially  obacurad  by  errata 
alipa.  tiaauaa.  etc..  heve  been  rafilmad  to 
enaure  tha  beat  poaaibla  image/ 
Lea  pagea  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obacurciaa  par  un  fauillet  d'arrata.  une  paiure, 
etc..  ont  *t*  filmaes  i  nouveau  da  fapon  a 
obtanir  la  meilleure  imege  poaaibla. 


diffen 
entire 


right  I 
requir 


Thia  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  filmi  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiqu*  ei-deaaoua. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

2SX 

30X 

J 

12X 


ItX 


aox 


24X 


28X 


32X 


l«tail« 
M  du 
nodifitr 
•r  una 
ilmag* 


The  00|9V  fUmcd  h#fv  Nm  bMii 
to  th«  o«n«ro«lty  of: 


roproduood  thanko 


UiilvwaHv  of  Albtrla 

BUIINNIIHNI 

Tho  imogoo  oppoorlnfl  horo  aro  tho 
poMlblo  eonoMoflfHi  ttio  eondMon 
of  ttM  orlglnol  eopy  and  in  kaaplng 


quaMty 
loglblHtv 


L'axamplaira  f Ilm4  fut  roprodult  griea  A  la 
g4n4roaltA  do: 

UfihranHy  of  Albsfts 
■dmontoii 

Lao  Imagaa  tuivam oo  ont  «tA  roprodultot  avoc  lo 
plua  grand  toln,  oompto  tonu  do  lo  condition  ot 
do  lo  nottotd  do  i'ONomploIro  fllmd.  ot  on 
oonfofmM  ovoe  loo  eondMono  du  oontrat  do 


M 


Originol  eopioo  toi  printod 


tho  loot  pogo  wMi  a  printod  or  Hkiatratad  Impffoa- 

•ion,  or  ttio  book  oovor 

othor  originol  eopioo  or 

firot  pogo  wMi  o  printod  or  iNMOtralad  imprao* 

•ion.  and  andlng  on  tho  loot  pogo  wMi  o  printod 

or  INuotrotod  Improaakm. 


Laa  axamplairoo  orlginoux  dont  lo  couvorturo  on 
popior  oot  ImpHmdo  aont  fHmdo  on  commongant 
par  la  pramlar  plat  ot  on  torminont  soit  por  lo 
domliro  pogo  qui  comporto  uno  omprolnto 
d'Improooion  ou  d'iNuotrotion.  solt  por  lo  toeond 
plot,  Mlon  lo  000.  Touo  loo  outroo  OHomplolroo 
orlginoux  aont  fHmdo  on  eommon^ont  por  lo 
promldro  pogo  qui  eomporto  uno  omprolnto 
dimprooalon  ou  dlNuotrotlon  ot  on  torminont  por 
lo  domlAro  pogo  qui  eomporto  uno  toHo 
omprolnto. 


Tho  loot  roeordod  fromo  on  ooeh 
•hoN  eontain  tho  aymbol  "-^ 
TINUID"),  or  tho  aymbol  ▼ 

wMolMvor  oppHoo. 


"CON- 
INO"). 


Un  doo  aymiioloo  aulvonto  apporottro  tur  lo 
doml4ro  imogo  do  ehoquo  mierofieho,  solon  lo 
eao:  lo  aymbolo  -»  signiflo  "A  8U1VRE",  lo 
•ymbolo  ▼  algnlfio  "FIN". 


Mopo,  ptotoo,  ehorta,  ate.,  may  ba  fNmod  ot 
dlfforont  roduetion  rotloa.  Thooo  too  lorgo  to  bo 
entirely  ineludod  in  one  expoeuro  ore  filmed 
beginning  in  tho  upper  loft  bond  eomer,  loft  to 
right  end  top  to  bottom,  oe  mony  fromee  oo 
required.  Tho  following  diogrome  illuotroto  tho 
method: 


L4M  cortoe,  plonehoe,  tablooun,  etc.,  pouvont  Atro 
fllmdo  i  dee  taux  da  rMuetion  diff dronta. 
Lorequo  lo  dooumom  oot  trop  grond  pour  Atro 
roprcKluit  en  un  soul  cllchd.  il  eet  f  llmd  A  portir 
do  I'onglo  eupdriour  goueho.  do  goucho  A  droito. 
ot  do  hout  en  boo.  en  prenom  lo  nombro 
dimogeo  nAcoeeoiro.  Lee  dlogrommee  euhronta 
illuetront  lo  mAthode. 


Brrata 
to 


paiura, 

in  a 


32X 


1  2  3 


1  2  3 

4  5  6 


H 


27ih  Co 
3d  St 


J^4' 


^ 


Lieut. 
Mount 


Ordmd,  Ths 


Sir:  Ir 
the  2l8t  D 
note  a  cop 
the  Rocky 
I  resjpectfu 
the  Corps 


Hjd.  W 


Sir:  Ih 

expedition  i 

the  orders 

Topographi 

Senate  of  t 

Although] 

roe  to  say  tl 

Fremont,  bi 

the  report,  s 

f  cal  and  bar 

I  tias  delayed 


Hon.  J.  C 


27lh  CONORESI,       ;  *^ 

3c/  Session.  J  / 


2  ^t-*^-^ 
[SENATE]  [«48] 


1>- 


t 


hV 


"/ 


rROM 


THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR, 


Communicating y  in  compliance  with  a  resolution  of  the  Innate,  a  cony  of 
Lieut.  fVemont^s  report  of  hit  Exploring  Expedition  to  the  Bocky 
Mountains. 


March  2,  1843. 

lUftd,  and  ordered  to  be  printed. 

March  3,  1843. 
Ordtrtd,  That  nine  hundred  additional  copiae  be  fumiahed  for  the  ute  of  the  Senate,  and 
hundred  copies  for  the  um  of  tha  Topographical  Bureau. 


War  Department,  March  2, 1843. 
Sir  :  In  answer  to  the  resolution  of  the  Senate  of  the  United  States  of 
the  2l8t  December  last,  requiring  "  the  Secretary  of  War  to  send  to  the  Se- 
nate a  copy  of  Lieut.  Fremont's  report  of  his  recent  exploring  expedition  to 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  made  under  the  direction  of  the  War  Department," 
I  respectfully  transmit  herewith  the  (eport  just  received  from  the  Colonel  of 
the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  C.  SPENCER. 
Hon.  W.  P.  M.iNGUM, 

President  of  the  Senate. 


Bureau  of  Topographical  Engineers, 

Washington,  March  2, 1843. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  the  report  and  map  of  an  exploring 
expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  made  during  the  last  summer,  under 
the  orders  of  the  Department,  by  Lieut  J.  C.  Fremont,  of  the  Corps  of 
Topographical  Engineers,  and  which  was  called  for  by  a  resolution  of  the 
Senate  of  the  2l8t  of  last  December. 

Although  so  much  time  has  elapsed  since  the  calling  for  the  report,  allow 
me  to  say  that  it  was  not  owing  to  any  want  of  industry  on  the  part  of  Lieut. 
Fremont,  but  to  the  great  amount  of  rnatier  which  had  to  be  introduced  in 
the  report,  and  the  many  calculations  which  had  to  be  made  of  the  astronomi- 
cal and  barometrical  observations.  The  necessary  labor  on  these  accounts 
lias  delayed  the  completion  of  the  report  until  to-day. 

Very  respectfully,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  J.  ABERT, 
Colonel  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers. 
Hon.  J.  C.  Spencer, 

Secretary  of  War.  , 


I   m 


i  n 


M 


a 


iS 


A   REPORT 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  THE  COUNTRY 


LIINO  ■■TWIIN 


PHE  MISSOURI  RIVER  AND  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS, 


CM  THC  LINK  Or 


THE  KANSAS  AND  GREAT  PLATTi:  RIVERS. 


BT  XJBUT.  J.  o.  rBBMOsrr, 

CF    TBI    C«RPI    Qr    TOrOCRArillCAL    t.VSIINCKRt, 


WASHINGTON : 
rKorru)  it  eaniR  or  thk  vnitbd  states'  sevate. 

1843. 


■<     r     -    » 


iHi*^ 


m- 


"n*     * 


ToCc 


1 


J, 


Sir. 

botwoen 

I  tftini,  am 

Wmihing 

of  Now 

I  complett>< 

Choiiteni 

mouth  of 

prinn  Ch( 

I  inonls  foi 

Bad  Mft 

I  111  Mvera 

bank  of  il 

the  weste 

|wereenal 

39°  ft' 57' 

'meantime 

I  pied  in  CO 

jdemeis.  n 

vide  our^ 

I  we  were 

ievorythin 

into  its  I 

mount  oil 

performe< 

I  had  ( 

jcipally  (> 

I  prairie  lif 

IChnrles  F 

jpnrt  of  t 

jliunier,  ai 

[the  moun 

I  Louis,  w( 

Clemei 

'Ijouis  Go 

(min  Cnd( 

|Morly,Ba 

I  Louis  Me 

iProue. 


> 


REPORT. 


Waiiiinoton,  Manh  \,  1843. 

To  Col.  J.  J.  Altf.RT, 

Chief  nf  the  Corpt  »/  TopographkeU  Kngintera : 

BtR.  Ai^reeabl^  to  your  orders  to  explore  and  report  upon  the  country 

between  the  frontier*  of  Missouri  and  the  ^  outh  Pim  in  the  Rooky  mouU' 

I  (nint,  and  on  the  line  of  the  Kansas  and  G^eat  IMaite  riven,  1  lat  out  from 

Washington  ciiy  on  the  2U  dny  uf  May,  IH42,  arrived  a*  8t.  liouis,  by  way 

I  of  Now  York,  the  2'id  of  May,  where  the  necessary  preparations  were 

completed,  and  the  expedition  commenced.     I  proceeded  in  a  steamboat  to 

Chouteau's  Landing;;,  auoiit  4(K)  miles  by  water  from  8t.  Louis,  and  near  the 

mouth  of  ihe  Kansas  river,  whence  we  proceeded  twelve  miles  to  Mr.  Cy« 

])rian  Chouteau's  tiading  house,  where  wo  completed  our  final  arrange* 

I  monts  for  Ihj  expedition. 

Bad  weather,  which  interfered  with  astronomical  observations,  delayed 
Ins  several  davH  in  the  early  |)art  of  June  at  this  post,  which  is  on  the  right 
b.-ink  of  the  Kansas  river,  about  ten  miles  above  the  mouth  and  six  beyond 
the  western  boundary  of  Missouri.    The  sky  cleared  off  at  length,  and  we 
I -were  enabled  to  determine  our  position,  in  longitude  94°  3U'  16",  and  latitude 
30°  5'  67".    The  elevation  above  the  sua  is  atx>ut  700  feet.    Our  camp,  in  the 
meantime,  presented  an  animated  and  bustling  .<ic@ne.     All  were  busily  occu> 
pied  in  completing  the  necessary  arrangements  for  our  campaign  in  the  wil- 
derness, ana  profiting  by  this  short  delay  on  the  verge  of  civilization,  to  pro- 
vide ourdolves  with  all  the  little  essentials  to  comfort  in  the  Moumdic  life 
I  we  were  to  lead  for  the  ensuing  summer  months.    Gradually,  however, 
everything,  the  materiel  of  the  camp,  men,  horses,  ond  even  mules,  settled 
into  its  place,  and  by  the  1 0th  we  were  ready  to  depart ;  but,  before  we 
mount  our  horses,  1  will  give  a  short  description  of  the  party  with  which  I 
performed  this  service. 

I  had  collected  in  the  iini^hborhood  of  St.  Louis  twenty-one  men,  prin* 
[cipally  Oeole  and  Canadian  voyasreurs,  who  had  become  familiar  with 
Iprairie  life  in  the  service  of  the  fur  companies  in  the  Indian  country.  Mr. 
jCharles  Preuss,  a  native  of  Germany,  was  my  assistant  in  the  topographical 

f)art  of  the  survey.     L.   Maxwell,  of  Kaskaskia,  had  been  engaged  as 
lunier,  and  Christopher  Carson,  more  familiarly  known  for  his  exploits  in 
the  mountains  as  Kit  Carson,  was  our  guide.    The  persons  engaged  in  St. 
I  Louis,  were: 

Clement  Lambert,  J.  B.  L'Ksperance,  J.  B.  Lof&vre,  Benjamin  Potra, 
[Louis  Goiiin,  J.  B.  Dtmies,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  Francois  Tessier,  Benja- 
imin  CodoUe,  Joseph  Clement,  Daniel  Simoiuls,  Leonard  Benoit,  Michel 
(Morly,  Bapiiste  Bernier.  Honore  Ayot,  Francois  Li^ulippe,  Franfois  Badeau, 
I  Louis  Menard,  Joseph  Ruelle,  Moise  Chardonnais,  Auguste  Janisse,  Raphael 
[Proue. 


iinrnini£. 


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i;v  iKii:  .l.tM'K'I'lMONT,  or  iiii:   Coinvs  or  ToiMK.UAfiiK  .\i,  I. xcix  i  i.i.'s. 


I  Odd  ()  I  II  I 
'I'll  f     ,  I  .1  I   ■.    I  II  lid    .1  I  !■    ,1  ;.  I  1  o  II  1'  111  U   .1  I     I   .1  ,-1  I  iiHI  s 
I,  Hfi.'i  k  i'>   I  ulii 


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8 


In  addition  to  these,  Henry  Brant,  son  of  Col.  J.  B.  Brant,  of  St.  Lotii«» 
n  young  man  of  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  Randolph,  a  lively  boy  of 
twelve,  son  of  the  Hon.  Thomas  H.  Benton,  accompanied  me,  for  the  deveU 
opment  of  mind  and  body  which  such  an  expedition  would  give.  We 
were  all  well  armed  and  mounted,  with  the  exception  of  eiffht  men,  who 
conducted  as  many  carts,  in  which  were  packed  our  stores,  with  the  baggage 
and  instruments,  and  which  were  each  arawn  by  two  mules.  A  few  loose 
horses,  and  four  oxen,  which  had  been  added  to  our  stock  of  provisions, 
completed  the  train.  We  sat  out  on  the  morning  of  the  10th,  which  hap* 
pened  to  be  Friday,  a  circumstance  which  our  men  did  not  fail  to  remember 
and  recall  during  the  hardships  and  vexations  of  the  ensuing  journey.  Mr. 
Cyprian  Chouteau,  to  whose  kindness  during  our  stay  at  his  house  we 
were  much  indebted,  accompanied  us  several  miles  pn  our  way,  until  we 
met  an  Indian,  whom  he  had  engaged  to  conduct  us  on  the  first  thirty  or 
forty  miles,  where  he  wtu  to  consign  us  to  the  ocean  of  prairie,  which,  we 
were  told,  stretched  without  interruption,  almost  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky- 
Mountains. 

From  the  belt  of  wood  which  borders  the  Kanzas,  in  which  we  had  passed 
several  good  looking  Indian  farms,  we  suddenly  emerged  on  the  prairies, 
which  received  us  at  the  outset  with  some  of  their  striking  characteristics; 
for  here  and  there  rode  nn  Indian,  and  but  a  few  miles  distant,  heavy  clouds 
of  smeke  were  rolling  bef9re  the  fire.  In  about  ten  miles  we  reached  the 
Santa  Fe  road,  along  which  we  continued  for  a  short  time,  and  encamped 
early,  on  a  small  stream,  having  travelled  about  eleven  miles.  During  our 
journey,  it  was  the  customary  practice  to  encamp  un  hour  or  two  before  sun> 
set,  when  the  carls  were  disposed  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  barricade  around 
a  circle  some  eighty  yards  in  diameter.  I'he  tents  were  pitched,  and  thfr 
horses  hobbled  and  turned  loose  to  graze  ;  and  but  a  few  minutes  elapsed 
before  the  cooks  of  the  messes,  of  which  there  were  four,  were  busily  en* 
gaged  in  preparing  the  evening  meal.  At  night  fall,  the  horses,  mules,  and 
oxen,  were  driven  in,  and  pickeUed — that  is,  secured  by  a  halter,  of  which 
one  end  was  tied  to  a  small  steel-shod  picket,  and  driven  into  the  ground  ; 
the  halter  being  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  which  enabled  them  to  obtain  a  little 
food  during  the  night.  When  we  had  reached  a  part  of  the  country  where 
such  a  precaution  became  necessary,  the  carts  being  regularly  arranged  for 
defending  the  camp,  guard  was  mounted  at  eight  o'clock,  consisting  of 
three  men,  who  were  relieved  every  two  hours ;  the  morning  watch  being 
horse  guartl  for  the  day.  At  daybreak  the  camp  was  roused,  the  animals 
turned  loose  to  graze,  and  breakfast  generally  over  between  six  and  seven 
o'clock,  when  we  resumed  our  morch,  making  regularly  a  halt  at  noon  for 
one  or  two  hours.  Such  was  usually  the  order  of  the  day,  except  when  ac- 
cident of  country  forced  a  variation,  which,  however,  happened  but  rarely. 
We  travelled  the  next  day  along  the  Santa  Fe  road,  which  we  left  in  tho 
afternoon,  and  encamped  late  in  the  evening  on  a  small  creek,  called  by  the 
Indians  Mishmagwi.  Just  as  we  arrived  at  camp,  one  of  the  horses  set  off 
at  full  speed  on  his  return,  and  was  followed  by  others.  Several  men  were 
sent  in  pursuit,  and  returned  with  the  fugitives  about  midnight,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  man,  who  did  not  make  liis  appearance  until  morning.  He 
had  lost  his  way  in  the  darkness  of  the  night,  and  slept  on  the  prairie. 
Shortly  after  midnight,  it^egan  to  rain  heavily,  and  as  our  tents  were  of  light 
and  thin  cloth,  they  oflered  but  liule  obstruction  to  rain  ;  we  were  all  well 
soaked,  and  glad  when  morning  came.     We  had  a  rainy  march  on  the  12tl^ 


-TX,-,  '1 


0 


[8481 


but  the  weoiher  grew  fine  ai  the  doy  ndvc'^rmJ.  We  encamped  in  a  re* 
markoUy  beauiifut  Miuniion  on  the  Kfanzan  Uluflb,  which  commanded  a  fine 
view  of  the  river  valley,  here  from  three  to  four  mile*  wide.  The  central 
portion  was  occupied  by  a  broad  belt  of  heavy  timber,  and  nearer  the  hilU 
ihe  prairies  were  of  the  rioliest  verdure.  One  of  the  oxen  was  killed  here 
for  food. 

We  reached  the  ford  of  the  Kansas  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  Uth, 
where  the  river  was  two  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and  commenced  im<^ 
mediniely  preparations  for  crossing.  1  had  expected  to  find  the  river  forda- 
bie,  but  it  had  been  swollen  by  the  late  rains,  and  was  sweeping  by  with  aa 
angry  current,  yellow  and  turbid  as  the  Missouri.  Up  to  this  point,  the  road 
we  had  (ravelled  was  a  remarkably  fine  one,  well  beaten,  and  level,  the  usual 
road  of  a  prairie  country.  By  our  route  the  ford  was  one  hundred  miles 
from  (he  mouth  of  (he  Kanzas  river.  Several  mounted  men  led  the  way 
in(o  (he  streom  to  swim  across.  The  animals  were  dnveii  in  aAer  (hem,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  all  had  reached  the  opposite  bank  in  safety,  with  the  ex- 
ception  of  the  oxen,  which  swam  some  dis(ance  down  (he  river,  and  relurn* 
ing  to  the  right  bank  were  not  got  over  until  (he  next  morning.  In  the  mean< 
time,  the  carls  had  been  unloaded  and  dismanded,  and  an  India  rubber  boat, 
which  I  had  brought  with  me  for  the  survey  of  (he  Platte  river,  placed  in  the 
water.  The  boat  was  tweniy  feet  long,  and  five  broad,  and  on  it  was  placed 
(he  body  and  wheels  of  a  cart,  with  the  load  belonging  to  it,  and  three  men 
with  paddles. 

The  velociiy  of  ihe  current,  and  (he  inconvenient  freight,  rendering  it  dif- 
ficult to  be  managed,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  one  of  our  best  swimmers,  look  in 
his  (ee(h  a  line  aitached  (o  (he  boat,  and  swam  ahead  in  order  (o  reach  a  foo(.^ 
ing  as  soon  as  possible,  and  assist  in  drawing  her  over.  In  this  manner,  six  pas- 
sages  had  been  successfully  made,  and  as  mitny  carts  with  their  contents,  and  a 
jgreater  poriion  of  the  party  deposited  on  the  left  bank,  but  night  was  drawing 
ear,  ond  in  our  anxiety  to  have  all  over  before  (he  darkness  closed  in,  I  put 
upon  the  boat  the  remaining  two  carts  with  their  accompanying  load.  The 
man  at  the  helm  was  timid  in  water,  and  in  his  alarm  capsized  (he  boa(. 
Carts,  barrels,  boxes,  and  bales,  were  in  a  moment  floating  down  the  current^ 
but  oil  the  men  who  were  on  the  shore  jumped  into  the  water,  without  stop- 
ping to  ihink  if  they  could  swim,  and  almost  every  thing,  even  heavy  arti* 
cles,  such  as  guns  and  lead,  were  recovered. 

Two  of  the  men  who  could  not  swim  came  nigh  being  drowned,  and  all 
(he  sugar  belonging  to  one  of  the  messes  wasted  its  swee(s  on  the  muddw 
waters;  but  our  heaviest  loss  wns  a  bag  of  coffee,  which  contained  nearly  all 
our  provision.  It  was  a  loss  which  none  but  a  traveller  in  a  strange  and  in- 
hospitable country  can  appreciate ;  and  often  afterward,  when  excessive  toil 
and  long  marching  had  overcome  us  wi(h  fatigue  and  weariness,  we  remem- 
bered and  mourned  over  our  loss  in  the  Kanzas.  Carson  and  Maxwell  had 
been  much  in  the  water  yesterday,  and  both  in  consequence  were  taken  ill. 
The  former  continuing  so,  1  remained  in  camp.  A  number  of  Kanzas  In- 
dians visited  us  to-day.  Going  up  to  one  of  the  groups  who  were  sca((ered 
among  the  trees,  I  found  one  sitting  on  the  ground  among  some  of  the  men, 
gravely  and  fluently  speaking  French,  with  as  much  facility  and  as  little  em- 
barrassment as  any  of  my  own  party,  who  were  nearly  all  of  French  origin. 

On  all  sides  was  heard  (he  strange  language  of  his  own  people,  wild,  and 
harmonizing  well  with  (heir  appearance.  I  listened  to  him  for  some  time 
with  feelings  of  strange  curiosity  and  interest.    He  was  now  apparently- 


t  248  ] 


10 


M 


thirty*flve  years  of  age ;  and,  on  inquiry,  I  learned  that  he  had  been  at  St. 
Lnuii  when  a  hoy,  and  there  had  learned  the  French  language.  From  one 
of  the  Indian  women  1  obtained  a  fine  cow  and  calf  in  exchange  for  a  yoke 
of  oxen.  Several  of  them  brought  us  vegetables,  pumpkins,  onions,  beans, 
and  lettuce.  One  of  ihem  brought  butler,  and  from  a  half-breed  near  the 
river  1  had  ihe  good  fortune  to  obtain  some  twenty  or  thirty  pounds  of  cotTee. 
The  dense  limber  in  which  we  had  encamped  interfered  with  ostronomicol 
observations,  and  our  wet  ond  damaged  stores  required  exposure  to  the  sun. 
Accordingly  the  tenis  wotre  struck  early  the  next  morning,  and,  leaving  camp 
nt  six  o'clock,  we  moved  about  seven  miles  up  the  river  to  a  handsome,  open 

firairie  some  twenty  feet  above  the  water,  where  the  fine  gross  atForded  a 
uxurious  repast  to  our  horses. 

During  the  day  we  occupied  ourselves  in  making  astronomical  obscrva- 
tions,  in  order  to  lay  down  the  country  to  this  place,  it  being  our  custom  to 
keep  up  out  map  regularly  in  the  field,  which  we  found  attended  with  many 
advanlnges.  The  men  were  kept  busy  in  drying  the  provisions,  painting 
the  carl  covers,  ond  otherwise  completing  our  equipoge,  until  the  afternoon, 
when  powder  was  distributed  to  them,  and  they  spent  some  hours  in  firing 
nt  0  mark.  We  were  now  fairly  in  the  Indian  country,  and  it  began  to  be 
time  to  prepare  for  the  chances  of  ihe  wilderness. 

Friday^  June  17. — The  weather  yesterday  hod  not  permitted  us  to  moke 
(he  observations  I  wos  desirous  to  obtain  here,  ond  I  therefore  did  not  move 
today.  The  people  contihued  their  target  firing.  In  the  sleep  bank  of  the 
river  hero  were  nests  of  Innumerable  swoIIowh,  into  one  of  which  o  large 
proirie  snake  hod  got  about  half  \\\a  body,  and  wos  occupied  in  eating  the 
voung  birds.  The  old  ones  were  Hying  about  in  great  distress,  dorting  at 
)iim,  and  vainly  endeavoring  to  drive  him  off.  A  shot  wounded  him,  and, 
being  killed,  he  was  cut  open,  ond  eighteen  young  swoUows  were  found 
in  his  body.  A  sudden  storm  that  burst  upon  us  in  the  ofternoon  cleared 
awoy  in  a  brilliant  sunset,  followed  by  a  cteor  night,  which  enobled  ua  to  de* 
termine  our  position  in  longitude  96°  1(V  06",  and  in  lotitude  30°  06'  4()'[. 

A  parly  of  emigrants  to  tiie  Columbia  river,  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  While, 
an  agent  of  the  Government  in  Oregon  Territory,  were  about  three  weeks  in 
advance  of  us.  They  consisted  of  men,  women,  and  children.  There  were 
eixty-fuur  men  and  sixteen  or  seventeen  families.  They  had  a  considerable 
number  of  cattle,  ond  were  transporting  their  holisehold  furniture  in  lorge 
heavy  wagons.  I  understood  that  there  had  been  much  sickness  among  them, 
ond  that  they  had  lost  several  children.  One  of  the  party  who  had  tost  his 
child,  and  whose^wife  was  very  ill,  had  left  them  about  one  hundred  miles 
hence  on  the  prairies;  and  as  a  hunter  who  had  accompanied  them  visited 
our  camp  this  evening,  we  availed  ourselves  of  his  return  to  the  Stoles  to 
write  to  our  friends. 

The  morning  of  the  18th  wos  very  unpleasant.  A  fine  roin  wos  falling, 
with  cold  wind  fiom  the  north,  and  mists  mode  the  river  hills  look  dark  ond 
gloomy.  We  left  our  camp  ot.  seven,  journcyiHg  along  the  foot  of  the  hills 
which  border  the  Kansas  valley,  generally  about  three  miles  wide,  and  ex* 
treinely  rich.  We  halted  for  dinner,  after  o  morqh  of  about  thirteen  miles, 
on  the  banks  of  one  of  the  mony  little  tributaries  to  the  Kansds,  which  look 
like  trerrches  m  the  prairie,  and  are  usually  well  timbered.  After  crossing 
this  stream,  I  rode  off  some  miles  to  the  left,  attracted  by  the  appeoronce  of 
a  cluster  of  huts  near  the  mouth  of  the  Vermillion.  It  was  o  large  but  de- 
serted Kansas  village,  scattered  in  an  open  wood  along  the  margin  of  the|9U 


stream,  oi 
scenery, 
houses  w 
dy  geiiini 
I  reuched 
western  s 
evening 
cat  observ 
15'  19". 

We  br( 
ment  earl 
ting  the  ri 
generally 
oouldera 
four  or  fiv 
All  plants 
enlivened 
occasional 
country. 
Ihe  head 
eral  tine  s 
try — hero 
votion  op 
The  nigh 
46°,  baron 
latitude  31 

The  m< 
sky,  and  t 
ther  more 
siliceous  li 
thickly  stn 
aliens  grev 
tected  fron 
they  flourii 
charocteris 
rich  bolton 
tnnber.  R 
miles,  we  i 
em  side,  n 
This  is  a  c 
wide,  runn 
antelope  w 
a  fine  deer, 
ter,  at  suns 
place  to  a  | 
miles,  we  I 
pools.  In 
about  one 
of  water, 
cated  the  h 
and  the  da 

'°     Alor 


11 


t«4«] 


lind  been  nt  St. 
ige.  From  one 
r\n^o  for  a  yoke 
I,  unions,  benni, 
f-breed  near  the 
lounds  of  cofiee. 
th  aatronomicol 
•sure  to  the  sun. 
d,  leaving  cnmp 
hondsotne,  open 
grass  afForded  a 

lomical  observa- 
;  our  custom  to 
[ided  with  many 
visions,  painting 
it  the  afternoon, 
e  hours  in  firing 
id  it  began  to  be 

itted  us  to  make 
»re  did  not  move 
leop  bank  of  the 
)f  which  a  large 
ied  in  eating  the 
stress,  darling  at 
Linded  him,  and, 
}ws  were  found 
fternoon  cleared 
nabled  us  to  de- 
e  30°  06'  40". 
ge  of  Dr.  White, 
t  three  weeks  in 
n.    There  were 
d  a  considerable 
irniture  in  large 
ess  among  them, 
who  had  lost  his 
e  hundred  miles 
ed  them  visited 
to  the  Stales  to 


rain  was  falling. 
Is  look  dark  and 
foot  of  the  hills 
28  wide,  and  ex- 
t  thirteen  miles, 
nsas,  which  look 
After  crossing 
ie  appearance  of 
J  a  large  but  de- 
e  margin  of  the 


stream,  on  a  spot  chosen  with  the  customary  Indian  fondness  for  beauty  of 
scenery.  The  Pawnees  had  attacked  it  in  the  early  spting.  Some  of  the 
houses  were  burnt,  and  others  bincknncd  with  smoke,  and  weeds  were  alrea* 
dy  getting  possession  of  the  cleared  places.  Riding  up  the  Vermillion  river, 
I  reuchedtne  ford  in  time  to  meet  the  carts,  and  crossing,  encamped  on  its 
western  side.  The  weather  continued  cool,  the  thermometer  being  this 
evening  as  low  as  4*.F,  but  the  night  was  sufHciently  cledr  for  astronomi> 
cal  observations,  which  placed  us  in  longitude  %°  3b'  40"  and  latitude  39° 
15'  19".    At  sunset  the  oarometcr  was  at  28,845,  ihermomeier  G4°. 

We  breakfasted  the  next  morning  ut  half  past  five,  and  left  our  encamp- 
ment early.  The  morning  was  cool,  the  thermometer  being  at  45°.  Quit- 
ting the  river  bottom,  the  road  ran  along  the  uplands  over  a  rolling  country, 
generally  in  view  of  the  Kansas,  from  eight  to  twelve  miles  distant.  Many  large 
boulders  of  a  very  compact  sandstone  of  various  shades  of  red,  some  of  them 
four  or  five  tons  in  weight,  were  scattered  along  the  hills ;  and  many  beauti* 
Ail  plants  in  fiower,  among  which  the  amorpha  canescetis  was  a  characteristic, 
enlivened  the  green  of  (he  prairio.  At  the  heads  of  the  ravines  I  remarked 
occasionally  thickets  of  sahx  lotigifolia^  the  most  common  willow  of  th© 
country.  We  travelled  nineteen  miles,  and  pitched  our  tents  at  evening  on 
the  head  waters  of  a  small  creek,  now  nearly  dry,  but  having  in  its  bed  sev- 
eral fine  springs.  The  barometer  indicated  a  considerable  rise  in  the  coun- , 
try — hero  about  fourteen  hundred  feel  above  the  sea — and  the  increased  ele- 
vation appeared  already  to  have  some  slight  infiuence  upon  the  vegetation. 
The  night  was  cold,  with  a  heavy  dew,  the  thermometer  ui  ten  standing  at 
46°,  barometer  28,483.  Our  position  was  in  longitude  96°  48'  05",  and 
latitude  39°  30'  40". 

The  morning  of  the  20ih  was  fine,  with  a  southerly  breeze  and  a  bright 
sky,  and  at  7  o'clock  we  were  on  the  march.  The  country  today  was  ra- 
ther more  broken,  rising  still,  and  covered  every  where  with  fragments  of 
siliceous  limestone,  pariiculaily  on  the  summits,  where  they  were  small,  and 
thickly  strewed  as  pebbles  on  the  shore  of  the  sea.  In  these  exposed  8itu> 
ations  grew  but  few  plants ;  though,  whenever  (he  soil  was  good  und  pro- 
lected  from  the  windd,  in  the  creek  bottoms  and  ravines,  and  on  the  slopes, 
they  flourished  abundantly;  among  them,  the  amorpha  still  retaining  its 
characteristic  place.  Wo  crossed,  at  10,  the  Big  Vermillion,  which  has  a 
rich  bottom  of  about  one  mile  in  breadth,  one  third  of  which  is  occupied  by 
timber.  Making  our  usual  halt  at  noon,  after  a  day's  march  of  twenty-four 
miles,  we  reached  the  Big  Blue,  and  encamped  on  the  uplands  of  the  west- 
ern side,  near  a  small  creek,  where  was  a  fine  large  spring  of  very  cold  water. 
This  is  a  clear  und  handsome  stream,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
wide,  running  with  a  rapid  current  through  a  wpII  limbered  valley.  Today, 
antelope  were  seen  running  over  the  hills,  and  ai  evening,  Caison  brought  us 
a  fine  deer.  Long,  of  the  camp,  97°  06'  58",  lut.  39°  45'  OS".  Thermome- 
ter, at  sunset,  75°.  A  pleasant  southerly  breeze  and  fine  morning  had  given 
place  to  a  gale,  with  indications  of  had  weather,  when,  afier  a  march  of  ten 
miles,  we  halted  to  noon  on  a  small  creek,  where  the  water  stood  in  deep 
pools.  In  the  bank  of  the  creek,  limestone  made  its  appearance  in  a  stratum 
about  one  foot  thick.  In  the  afternoon,  the  people  seemed  to  suffer  for  want 
of  water.  The  road  led  along  a  high  dry  ridge ;  dark  lines  of  timber  indi- 
cated ihe  heads  of  streams  in  the  plains  below,  but  there  was  no  water  near, 
and  the  day  was  very  oppressive,  with  a  hot  wind,  and  the  thermometer  at 
yO°.    Along  our  route,  the  amorpha  has  been  in  very  abundant  but  variable 


1 


[«48] 


19 


I 


M 


bltioin  :  in  lome  pliCM,  bending  beneath  the  weight  of  purple  cluelera;  ii» 
oihen,  without  n  flower.     It  leeme  to  lovn  Uvai  ihe  lunny  liopee,  with  m 
dark  wil  out!  M)uihern  expuaure.     Kvery  where  tli«  ruae  is  nut  with,  and 
reiiiind«  ui  of  cuhivated  ganlenn  and  civilixaiion.     It  ii  icatiered  over  the 
proirioa  in  miiall  ItiNMiiinia,  and  when  ghttering  in  ihn  dewa  and  waving  in  the 
plfiawni  biovzo  o(  ilio  onrly  morning,  ia  tiia  moat  Inmutiful  of  the  prairie 
flowers.     The  arttmisia^  abeiiiihe,  or  prairie  rage,  na  it  ia  vniioualy  called,  ia  I 
iricrnuiing  in  aiise,  and  giitiera  \'\ko  ailver,  iia  the  auulhern  breexe  turna  up  ita  | 
Icitvfa  lu  the  aun.     All  ihoao  plania  have  thuir  inacci  inhabitaula.  variouaiy 
colored  ;  tiikini^  gencrully  tho  hue  of  the  flower  on  which  ihey  live.     The  j 
artemma  hiia  Ha  amall  fly  acronin<uiying  it  through  uvery  change  of  eleva* 
liun  uiui  liuiiudu  ;  uuti  wlu'ritvor  1  huv»  hccu  (he  aadvpiaa  tuberoM,  I  have 
nlwaya  remarked,  loo,  on  ilie  flower,  a  large  butierfly,  ao  nearly  rnaoinbling  i 
it  in  color,  ua  to  bo  diatinguiahablu  at  ii  liiile  diainnco  only  by  ine  motion  of 
its  winga.     Travelling  on  the  freeh  traces  of  the  Oregon  emigrants  relieve*  a 
little  the  lonelinetiM  uf  ilie  road  ;  and  to  night,  afiur  a  march  of  twenty*lwo| 
niiica,  wo  hulled  tin  u  small  treek,  which  liad  been  ontt  of  their  encamp* 
nienlii.     As  wo  advance  weaiward,  iho  aoil  appeara  to  bo  gelling  more  sandy^j 
and  the  auifaco  rtH'k,  an  erratic  denoaiie  of  aand  and  gravel,  reata  here  on  a 
bed  of  coarao  yulluw  and  gray  and  very  friable  aandatono.     Evening  closed 
over'Wiih  rain  and  ita  uauul  attendant,  hordes  of  moa([uiioe8,  with  which  we| 
were  annoyed  for  the  flrat  time. 

June  22. — Wo  enjoyudtat  breakfast  ihia  morning  a  luxury  very  unuaual  I 
in  ihia  country,  in  a  cup  of  excellent  cotFoo,  wiili  cream  from  our  cow. 
Being  milked  at  night,  cream  was  thus  had  in  the  morning.     Our  midday 
halt  was  at  VVyciirs  creek,  in  the  bed  of  which,  were  numerous  boulders  of 
dark  ferruginous  mindoiunu,  mingled  with  oiheiaof  the  red  sandatono  already  [ 
mentioned.     Hero  a  pack  of  cardfi,  lying  looao  on  llio  un\»»,  marked  an  en- 
campment of  our  Oregon  cmigrania ;  aim  it  was  at  the  close  of  the  day  when 
we  nmdo  our  bivouac  in  llio  nwhi  of  some  wel|.(jmbcrud  ravines  near  the 
Little  Blue,  twuniy-foiir  miloa  from  our  camp  of   iIih   preceding  night. 
Crossing  iho  next  morning  n  number  of  handmonu)  creeks,  with  clear  water 
and  sandy  beds,  wo  reached,  at  10,  a  very  beautiful  wooded  stream,  about | 
thiily-flvo  feel  wide,  called  i^andy  creek,  and,  Homctimes,  as  iho  Otoes  fre* 
(|uently  winter  there,  iho  Otoo  fork.     Tlie  couniiy  has  become  very  sandy,! 
and  the  plants  lens  varied  and  abundant,  wiih  the  exception  of  the  amorphaA 
which  rivals  the  grass  in  quantity,  though  not  so  forward  as  it  has  been  fouudj 
to  the  eastward. 

At  the  Uig  Trees,  where  we  had  intended  to  noon,  no  water  was  to  be  I 
found.     The  bed  of  the  liiilc  creek  was  perfectly  dry,  and  on  the  adjacent 
Mtndy  bottom  cacti,  for  i  he  first  lime,  made  their  appearance.    Wc  made  here  a  I 
t<(iorl  delay  in  search  of  water,  and,  after  a  hard  day's  march  of  twenty-eight [ 
miles,  encamped  at  live  o'clock  on  the  Little  Hluc,  where  our  arrival  made  I 
'a  scene  of  iho  Aral>iati  dcvsort.     As  fast  us  they  arrived,  men  and  horses  I 
rushed  into  the  stream,  where  they  baihcd  and  drank  together  in  common 
enjoyment.     We  were  now  in  the  range  of  iho  Pownees,  who  were  accus- 
tomed to  infest  this  part  of  the  country,  stealing  horses  from  companies  on 
their  way  lotlic  mountains,  and  when  in  sunicieiit  force  openly  attacking  ond 
plundering  them,  and  sul>jecting  them  to  various  kinds  of  insult.     For  the 
first  tiniejihercfore,  guard  was  moinited  to  night.     Our  route  the  next  morn- 
ing lay  up  tlic  valley,  which,  bordered  by  hills  willi  graceful  slopes,  lookedl 
uncomonly  green  and  beautiful.  The  stream  was  about  fifty  feet  wide  and  threel 


pl«  oliMlera;  ii» 
y  ilopM,  wUh  ft 
■  ntrl  with,  Biicl 
lUored  over  iho 
1(1  wnving  in  the 
il  uf  ilie  prairie 
liuiiily  ciuled,  i» 
•eze  (urni  up  il* 
litouu,  variouciy 
iliey  live.  The 
hniige  of  elevo* 
ulteromi^  I  have 
L'arly  rutembliitg 
)y  the  inolion  of 
gruiila  rcUevea  a 
I)  of  iwunty'two 
r  their  encnmp* 
iiig  more  anndy^ 
,  reals  liere  on  a 
Evening  cIomU 
,  with  which  we 

iry  very  unuiual 

from  our  cow. 

;.    Our  middoy 

srous  boulders  of 

imdatone  ol  ready 

I,  innrkcd  nn  en- 

Df  ilio  day  when 

ravines  near  the 

•receding  night. 

with  clear  water 

stream,  obout 

I  ho  does  fre* 

)mo  very  sandy, 

Df  the  amorpha^ 

has  been  found 

tvater  was  (o  be 

on  the  adjacent 

We  made  here  a 

of  twcnly-eight 

tir  arrival  made 

Hen  and  horses 

her  in  common 

ho  were  accus- 

conipanies  on 

y  attacking  ond 

isult.     For  the 

the  next  morn 

slopes,  looked 

bt  wide  and  three 


a 


IS 


[«48] 


or  four  deep,  fringed  hy  cotton  wood  nnd  willow,  with  frequent  grovee  of 
oaIc  lenanlrd  by  tluckii  of  Turkeys.  Unnie  here,  too,  mnde  its  appearance 
in  greater  plenty.  KIk  were  frequently  seen  on  the  hills,  nnd  now  and 
then  an  nntelope  houiuied  acroM  our  path,  or  a  deer  broke  from  thk  grovet. 
The  road  in  the  afternoon  woi  over  the  upper  prairies,  leveml  miles  ttwn  the 
river,and  we  encamped  at  sunaet  on  one  of  Its  small  tribuiariea,where  an  abund- 
ance of  nrAle  (etfuitetutn)  oflimled  flne  forage  to  our  tired  animals.  We  had 
travelled  thirty  one  miles.  A  henvv  bank  of  black  clouds  in  the  west  came 
on  us  in  a  storm  between  nine  and  ten,  preceded  by  a  violent  wind.  The 
ndn  fell  in  such  torrents  that  it  was  dimcult  to  breathe  facing  the  wind, 
the  thimder  rolled  inceasanlly,  and  the  whole  sky  was  tremulous  with 
lightning ;  now  and  then  illuminated  by  a  blinding  flash,  succeeded  b? 
puchy  (larkness.  Caraon  had  the  watch  from  ten  to  midnight,  nnd  to  him 
had  been  assigned  our  young  eompagnona  de  voyage,  Messrs.  Brant  and  R. 
Denton.  This  was  their  first  nigtit  on  guard,  nnd  such  an  introduction  did 
not  nugur  very  auspiciously  of  the  pleasures  of  the  expedition.  Many  things 
conspired  to  render  their  situation  uncomfortable ;  stories  of  desperate  and 
bloody  Indian  flghts  weie  rife  in  the  camp ;  our  position  was  bnuly  chosen, 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  timbered  hollows,  and  occupying  an  area  of  several 
hundred  feet,  so  that  neceasarily  the  guards  were  far  apart ;  and  now  and 
then  I  could  hear  Randolph,  as  if  relieved  by  the  sound  of  n  voice  in  the 
darkness,  calling  out  to  the  sergeant  of  the  guard,  to  direct  his  attention  to 
some  imoginary  alarm ;  but  they  stood  it  out,  and  took  their  turn  regidarly 
aAerwnrd. 

The  next  morning  we  had  a  specimen  of  the  false  alarms  to  which  all 
parties  in  these  wild  regions  are  subject.  Proceeding  up  the  valley,  objects 
were  seen  on  the  opposite  hills,  which  disappeared  before  a  glass  could  be 
brought  to  bear  upon  them.  A  man  who  was  a  short  distance  in  the  rear 
came  spurring  up  in  great  hnsle,  shouting  Indians!  Indians!  He  had  been 
near  enough  to  see  and  count  them,  according  to  his  report,  and  had  made 
out  twenty-seven.  I  immediately  hailed,  arms  were  examined  and  put  in 
order;  the  usual  preparations  mnde ;  and  Kit  Carson, springing  upon  one  of  the 
hunting  horses,  crossed  the  river,  and  walloped  off  into  the  opposite  pritiries 
to  obtain  some  certain  intelligence  of  their  movements. 

Mounted  on  a  fine  horse,  without  n  saddle,  and  scouring  bareheaded  over 
the  prairies,  Kit  was  one  of  the  finest  pictures  of  a  horseman  I  have  ever 
seen.  A  short  time  enabled  him  to  discover  that  the  Indion  war  party  of 
twenty-seven  consisted  of  six  elk,  who  had  been  gazing  curiously  at  our 
caravan  as  it  possed  by,  and  were  now  scampering  olT  ot  full  speed.  This 
was  our  first  alarm,  and  its  excitement  broke  agreeably  on  the  monotony  of 
the  day.  At  our  noon  hall,  the  men  were  exercised  at  a  target,  nnd  in  the 
evening  we  pitched  our  tents  at  a  Pawnee  encampment  of  last  July.  They 
had  apparently  killed  buflfalo  here,  as  manv  bones  were  lying  about,  and  the 
frames  where  the  hides  had  been  stretched  were  yet  standing.  The  road  of 
the  day  had  kept  the  valley,  which  is  sometimes  rich  and  well  timbered, 
Uiough  the  country  is  generally  sandy.  Mingled  with  the  usual  plonts,  a 
thistle  {mrduus  UucSgraphus)  had  for  the  last  day  or  two  made  iu  appear- 
ance ;  and  along  the  river  bottom,  tradescantia  {virginka)  and  milk  plant 
(asclepias  syriaea*),  in  considerable  quantities. 

*  "This  plant  h  verr  o«Iorir«row,  and  in  Canada  charms  Uie  traTSller,  Mpeeially  whca 

I  passing  through  woodii  in  the  evening.    The  French  there  eat  the  tender  shoots  in  spring,  m 

w  do  asparagus.    The  natives  make  a  sugar  of  the  flowers,  gathering  them  in  the  fltontiog 


m 


[Wl] 


14 


y 


I 


I/' 


Our  innrch  lo  dny  hat)  b«en  lwenly<on«  iiiilef ,  nnd  iha  Agronomical  ob- 
MrvaiioiM  envD  ui  o  chrnnomiilric  longitiuln  of  98^  01'  07".  and  Iniiiiuifl  40*' 
20^  00". '  We  were  inovinK  foiwnrd  at  aoven  in  ihe  morning,  nnd  in  nbouC 
Ave  milee  reoched  »  fork  of  die  Uluo,  where  the  rond  leaves  ihni  river,  ond 
croeeee  over  to  (he  Plolie.  No  water  wim  lu  be  found  on  the  dividing  ridge, 
•nd  the  ciuka  were  Ailed  ond  the  nniiiinU  here  allowed  o  short  repoee.  'Hie 
rond  led  ncroei  a  high  and  level  prairie  ridge,  where  were  but  few  plantf, 
ond  thoee  principolFy  thistle  {cttrauua  ieiu'6ifraphuM),  ond  a  kind  of  dwarf 
artemisin.  Antelope  were  seen  frei|uenilv  during  the  morning,  which  won 
very  stormy.  Squalls  of  ruin,  with  thunder  ami  lightning,  wi^e  around  u» 
in  every  direction  ;  and  while  we  were  enveloped  m  one  of  ihoni,  o  Hash, 
which  seemed  to  scorch  our  eyes  as  it  passed,  struck  in  the  prairie  within  a 
few  hundred  feet,  sending  up  a  column  of  diiit. 

Crossing  on  the  way  several  Pawnee  romU  to  the  Arkansas,  we  reached, 
in  about  twenly-one  miles  from  our  halt  on  the  Rlue,  what  is  called  the 
coast  of  the  Nebraska,  or  Platte  river.  This  hnd  aeemed  in  the  distance 
0  range  of  high  and  broken  hills,  but  on  n  nonrer  approach  were  found  to  b« 
elevations  of  forty  to  sixty  fuel,  into  which  the  wind  had  worked  the  sand. 
They  wete  covered  wiili  iIm;  utiual  lliio  f^riiMges  of  the  country,  and  bordered 
the  eastern  aide  of  the  ridge  on  a  broadili  of  about  two  inileH.  Chonge  of 
soil  and  country  appeared  here  to  have  produced  some  changu  in  the  vege> 
tation.  Cocti  were  numerous,  and  nil  the  plimts  of  the  region  appeared  to 
dourish  among  the  wurin  hills.  Among  thoin  the  amorp/ia,  in  full  bloom, 
was  remarkable  for  its  largo  and  luxuriant  purple  clusters.  From  the  foot 
of  the  coast,  a  distance  of  two  miles  acroM  the  level  bottom  brought  us  to 
our  encampment  on  (hn  shore  of  the  river,  about  twenty  miles  below  the 
head  of  Grand  island,  which  lay  extended  before  us,  covered  with  dense  and 
heavy  woods.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas,  according  to  our  reckoning, 
we  had  travelled  three  hundred  and  twenty-eight  miles,  and  the  geological 
formation  of  the  country  we  hnd  passed  over,  consisted  of  lime  and  sand- 
stone, covered  by  the  aanie  erratic  deposile  of  sand  and  gravel  which  formn 
the  surface  rock  of  the  prairies  lietween  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi  rivers ; 
except  in  some  occasional  limestone  boulders,  1  had  met  with  no  fossils. 
The  elevation  of  the  Platte  valley  above  the  sea  is  here  about  two  thousand 
feet.  The  astronomical  observations  of  the  night  placed  us  in  longitude 
99°  17'  47",  Intiiudo  40°  41'  06". 

June  27. — The  animals  were  somewhat  fatigued  by  their  march  of  yes- 
terday, ond  after  a  short  journey  of  eighteen  miles  along  the  river  bottom,  I 
encamped  near  the  head  of  Ciinnd  island,  in  longitude,  by  obsjirvation,  99° 
37'  45",  latitude  40°  39'  32".  The  soil  here  was  light  but  rich,  though  in 
some  places  rather  sandy  ;  and,  With  the  exception  of  a  scattered  fringe  along 
the  bank,  the  timber,  consisting  principally  of  poplar  (populua  monilifera), 
elm,  and  hackberry  {ceUis  crasiifolia)^  is  confined  almost  entirely  to  the 
ialands. 

June  28. — We  halted  to  noon  at  an  open  reach  of  the  river,  which  occu- 
pies rather  more  than  a  fourth  of  the  valley,  here  only  about  four  miles  broad. 


when  they  are  covered  witn  dew,  and  collect  the  cotton  from  the  pods  to  ftll  their  beds.  On 
account  of  the  silkiness  of  this  cotton,  Parkinson  calls  the  plant  Virginian  silk." — /..oudon^s 
Emewiloptdia  of  PUmtf. 

The  Sioux  Indians  of  the  Upper  Platte  eat  the  young  pods  of  this  plant,  boiling  them  with 
the  meat  of  the  butfaio. 


MronomicAl  ob- 
nd  Imitude  AiP 


l^  And  in  About 
ihAt  river.  And 
dividing  ridn, 
t  repoMs.  'liie 
>ut  fflw  plnnu, 
I  kind  of  dwarf 
iiig,  which  WAA 
wt^n  around  u» 
r  ihoni,  n  llMh, 
pmiria  within  n 

OS,  wfl  reAchfld, 
At  is  cnlled  lh« 
in  th«  diatAuce 
^ero  found  to  be 
orked  ihe  Mnd. 
V,  and  Irardered 
fen.  ChAngfl  of 
tigu  in  the  vege* 
ion  appeared  to 
I,  in  (ml  bloom, 

From  the  foot 
1  brought  us  to 
miles  below  the 
I  with  dense  and 
9  our  reckoning, 
id  the  geological 

lime  and  sand- 
rel  which  formn 
itisissippi  rivers ; 

with  no  fossils. 
Lit  two  thousand 
us  in  longitude 

marcli  of  yes- 
river  bottom,  I 
Qbs^rvnlion,  99° 
rich,  though  in 
red  fringe  along 
lua  monili/era), 
entirely  to  the 

rer,  which  occu- 
bur  miles  broad. 


ftlltheir  beds.    On 
ian  »llk."— /^lelon'j 

t,  boiling  them  with 


16  [  848  ) 

Thn  rnmp  had  l>«an  dUnoMd  with  the  usuaI  pfacAuiion,  lh«  horsM  |rAiiiig 
III  n  liiiitt  distance  uiieuued  by  (ha  guard,  anu  wa  were  uU  silling  quMiliy  at 
our  dinner  on  ih«  griiM,  when  suudonly  we  heord  ihe  startliiig  cry.  "  tht 
maiide  /"  In  an  insiani,  every  man's  weApon  was  in  hi*  hAnu|  %\\p  norsM 
were  driven  in,  hobbled  and  pickeited.  And  honemen  were  galloping  at  full 
ii|)eed  in  the  direction  of  the  new  comers,  screaming  and  yelling  with  (ha 
wildest  exciteiiienf.  "  (i«l  ready,  my  lads !"  said  the  leoder  of  (he  approach- 
ing  puny  lu  his  men,  whcR  our  wild  looking  horsemen  were  discovered 
bearing  down  upon  them ;  "  noui  aliont  attraper  d*$  eouM  tit  b^uttlt.** 
They  proved  to  be  a  small  porty  of  fourteen,  under  the  charge  of  a  man 
named  John  Lee,  and  with  (heir  baggage  and  provisions  siniiiped  (o  (heir 
backs,  were  making  their  way  on  fool  (o  (he  fioulier.  A  brief  Account  of 
their  fortunes  will  give  some  idea  of  navigation  in  the  Ni^braska.  Sixiy  day* 
since  they  had  left  the  mouih  of  Laraniie's  fork,  some  three  hundred  mile* 
Above,  in  barges  bden  with  the  furs  of  ihe  American  Fur  CompAuy.  They 
tiiaried  with  the  annual  flood,  and  drawing  but  nine  inches  water,  hoped  to 
maks  u  H|M!ody  and  prosperous  voynge  lo  St.  Lquis ;  but,  after  u  lapse  of 
forty  days,  found  themselves  only  one  hundred  and  thirty  milrs  from  their 
point  of  dnpartiiro.  They  cume  down  rapidly  as  far  as  Scott's  bluH's,  where 
ilieir  diinciiliies  began.  Soinoiimos  they  came  uptm  places  whore  the  water 
was  spread  over  a  great  nxlonl,  and  hvro  ihuy  toiled  from  morning  until  nighty 
endeavoring  to  drog  their  boat  through  the  B(uids,  inoking  only  two  or  three 
niles  in  as  many  duya.  Sometimes  they  would  enter  an  arm  of  the  river, 
where  ihoio  appeared  u  Hiiu  channel,  and  after  defending  prosperously  for 
eight  or  ten  miles,  would  come  suddenly  U|K)ii  drv  sunds,  and  bo  compelled 
to  rutiirii,  dragging  ihoir  boat  for  days  against  the  rapid  current ;  and  tit 
odiers,  they  came  upon  places  where  die  wulor  lay  in  holes,  and  getting  out 
lo  float  oflT  their  boat,  would  fall  into  wainr  up  to  their  nocks,  and  the  next 
moment  tumble  over  oguinsi  n  sandbar.  Discouraged  at  length,  and  flnding 
(he  Platte  growing  every  day  more  shallow,  (Itcy  discharged  (he  princijml 
par(  of  their  cargoes  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  below  Fort  Larainiu» 
which  they  securud  as  well  an  possible,  and  leuvins  a  few  men  to  guard 
them,  attempted  to  continue  their  voyage,  laden  with  some  light  fun  and 
their  personal  baggage.  After  fifteen  or  twenty  days  more  s(ruggling  in  (he 
sands,  during  which  they  made  but  one  hundred  und  forty  miles,  they  sunk 
their  barges  made  a  cache  of  their  remaining  furs  and  property,  in  trees  on 
the  bank,  and  packing  on  his  back  what  each  man  could  carry,  had  com- 
menced, the  day  before  wo  encountered  them,  their  journey  on  foot  to  Sr. 
Louis. 

Wo  laughed  then  at  their  forlorn  and  vagabond  appearance,  and  in  oui 
turn  a  month  or  two  afterward  furnished  th6  same  occasion  for  merriment 
to  others.  Even  thoir  stock  of  tobacco,  that  sine  qua  non  of  a  voyageWy 
without  which  the  night  fire  is  gloomy,  was  entirelv  exhausted.  However,, 
we  shortened  their  homeward  journey  by  a  small  supply  from  our  own 
provision.  They  gave  us  the  welcome  intelligence  that  the  Buflialo  were 
abundant  some  two  days  march  in  advance,  and  made  us  a  present  of  some 
choice  pieces,  which  were  a  rery  acceptable  change  from  our  salt  pork.  In 
the  interchange  of  news,  And  the  renewal  of  old  Acquaintanceships,  we 
found  wherewithal  to  fill  a  bitsy  hour,  then  we  mounted  our  horses,  and 
they  shouldered  their  packs,  and  we  shook  hands  and  parted.  Amons^ 
them,  I  had  found  an  old  companion  on  the  northern  prairie,  a  hard- 
ened and  hardly  served  veteran  of  the  mountains,  who  had  been  as. 


tS48] 


16 


miiah  hftcked  And  •c«rr«d  m  an  aM  mMttiitfht  of  Nanoli^on'a  "old  frimrd."  j 
lie  ttoiirith«d  in  lti«  M)utiriqu«4  of  Iiii  Tiilipe,  nnd  lilt  real  numt  I  rit^vrr  j 
kntw.    Findinn  that  h«  wu  foing  lo  lh«  Stain  only  Iwcniiie  hia  company 
waa  bonnd  in  lltni  dirvctlon,  nnd  ilial  ha  wai  ralhar  niora  wilting  (o  raiiirn 
with  MN>,  I  look  him  again  into  my  larvict.    We  inivallad  ihii  day  but  j 
jeventaan  milra. 

Al  our  tvaning  camp,  nl)out  aiinMl,  three  (Iffttrea  were  di«;oyer«N|  ap' 
fmaching,  which  onr  gin*-)*!*  made  out  lo  be  Inaiani.    Th^y  proved  to  be  I 
(yheyennea,  two  men  and  a  boy  of  thirtren.    About  n  month  aince  ihey 
had  left  their  (leople  on  the  aonth  fork  of  iha  river,  aomo  thrre  hundred 
niilea  to  the  weatward,  and  a  party  of  only  four  in  number,  had  been 
to  the  Pawnee  villngrs  on  a  horao  atcaling  exciiraion,  from  which  they 
were  rrturning  uniuccetaful.     They  were  tniaembiy  mouniod  on  wild 
horaea  from  tho  Arkanaaa  plaina,  and  nad  no  other  wea|ionB  than  l)OWi  and 
long  apean;  and  had  thry  lM*en  diacoveri'd  by  the  Pawnuei,  could  not,  by 
nny  poaaibility,  have  cacnpoit.    They  were  mortified  by  their  ill  aueceaa,! 
and  aaid  the  Piiwnrea  were  cownrda  who  ahut  up  their  horaea  in  their  lodgeal 
at  night.     I  invited  them  lo  aupper  with  me,  nnd  Randolph  and  the  young 
Cheyenne,  who  had  been  eyeing  each  other  auapicioualy  nnd  curioualy.l 
arion  liocame  intimate  frienda.     Afler  auppor  wo  aat  down  on  the  graaa,  andl 
1  placed  a  aheet  of  paper  Iwtwuen  ua,  on  which  thoy  trnccd  rudely,  buti 
with  a  certain  degree  of  relative  truth,  the  water  rouriea  of  tho  couniryl 
which  lay  lietween  u^  nijd  their  villogoa,  and  of  which  I  desired  lo  havel 
acme  information.    Their  companiona,  they  told  ua,  had  taken  a  nenretl 
route  over  the  hilla,  but  thev  had  mounted  one  of  the  aummita  to  apy  outi 
4he  country,  whence  they  haa  caught  a  glimpae  of  our  party,  and  conndentl 
of  good  treatment  at  the  handa  of  the  whites,  hastened  to  join  company! 
Latitude  of  the  camp  AOP  30'  51".  \ 

We  made  the  next  morning  sixteen  miles.  I  remarked  that  the  grounij 
was  covered  in  many  placet  with  an  effloreicenco  of  salt,  and  the  plant 
were  not  numerous.  In  the  bottoms  was  freqently  tnn^tradeseantia,  and 
on  the  dry  lenches,  were  earduus^  eactua,  and  arnorpha.  A  high  wind 
during  the  morning  had  increased  lo  a  violent  gale  from  the  northwest] 
•which  made  our  aftuinoon  ride  cold  and  unplensan't.  We  had  the  welcor 
aight  of  two  bufflito  on  one  of  the  largo  islands ;  nnd  encamped  at  a  clump 
or  timber  about  seven  miles  from  our  noon  halt,  after  a  days  mach  of  twenty-j 
(wo  miles. 

Tlie  air  was  keen  tho  next  morning  at  sunrise,  the  thermometer  standin|i 
at  44°,  and  it  was  Bufficiontly  cold  lo  mnke  overcoats  very  comfortable, 
few  miles  brought  us  into  tho  midst  of  the  Buffalo,  swarming  in  immena 
numbers  over  the  plains,  where  they  had  left  scarcely  a  blade  of  gra 
fftundinsr.    Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  sketching  ot  a  little  distance  in  the  rear] 
had  at  first  noted  them  cs  large  groves  of  timber.    In  the  sight  of  such 
mass  of  life,  the  traveller  feels  a  strange  emotion  of  grandeur.    We  had 
lieard  from  a  distance  a  dull  and  confused  murmuring,  and  when  we  came 
in  view  of  their  dark  masses,  there  was  not  one  among  us  who  did  not  feel  hid 
heart  beat  quicker.    It  was  the  early  part  of  the  day,  when  the  herds  art^ 
feeding ;  and  oTcry  where  they  were  in  motion.    Here  ond  there  a  huge] 
old  bull  was  rolling  in  the  grass,  and  clouds  of  dust  rose  in  the  air  front ] 
various  parts  ofthe  oginds,  each  the  scene  of  some  obstinate  fight.    Indiamj 
and  bumlo  make  the  poetry  and  life  of  the  prairie,  nnd  our  camp  was  full- 
of  their  ezhiliration.    In  place  of  the  quiet  monotony  of  the  march,  raj 


17 


[«4«1 


liflvml  only  by  iIm  rrnokinf  ut  tlw  whij).  nml  «n  "aimnni  tkne  f  tnfmnt 
dt  gure*  f*  ihiMiU  and  tonfft  rMrmndod  (r  )m  •  v«ry  |Ntrt  of  ih«i  iiim,  mid  our 
«iv«nin||  camp  wa«  always  the  rort);?}«nc«m«ni  (?f  «  f««il,  wliifh  mriiiinaiMl 
oiilv  with  our  (UpartiirM  i>^  'hn  folu^w'tif  inornintf.  At  any  i  tiM  of  ili<* 
nignl  m\gUi  Im  •««wi  piect^  of  '>^  nuitt  ddictiiff  and  clioicMt  tnant,  miuMing 
\  en  appoltu,  ou  itlck<  nroiiiid  the  fir«  nnd  ilin  ^imrd  wcro  itnvnr  withoiil 

I  company.  With  pIcoMiit  w«nilit*r  otwi  no  enaniy  to  foar,  t\.i  Ahiitidanca  of 
the  iiuMt  excallent  mmaI,  nnd  no  •ctrciiy  o(  brand  or  IoImcco,  ihejr  wtre  an* 
joying  the  noais  of  i  voya|r«ur'«  lifn.  Thrt«  rows  were  kilird  today.  Kit 
Carton  hod  iliolone,  and  waa  cnniinning  ih«  cIiom  in  tli«  iiikUi  of  another 
hard,  whon  hit  honM  fall  haadlong,  hut  sprang  up  and  joined  (he  flying 
tMUid.  Though  contidemhly  hurt,  ho  hnd  thn  good  tbrtuno  to  hrealc  no 
bones,  nnd  Maswall,  who  was  nuiuntod  on  nrieot  hunter,  captured  the  run* 
away  nfter  a  hard  chase,  lie  was  on  the  point  of  shooting  him  to  avoid  the 
loss  of  his  bridle,  a  handsomely  inoiintiyl  Himninh  one,  wlieti  he  found  that 
his  horM  was  able  to  como  up  with  him.  Animals  am  ireqiieiitly  lo«t  in  Ihif 

iway,  and  it  is  necctiiAry  tn  keep  close  watch  over  them,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Ithe  bulfalo,  in  the  midst  of  winch  they  iicour  otf  to  the  plainn,  and  are  rareljr 
Iretoken.  One  of  our  mules  timk  n  aiidden  freak  into  his  head  and  joined 
la  neighboring  band  todny.     Ai  we  were  not  in  a  condition  to  lose  hories, 

I I  sent  several  men  in  pursuit  and  remained  in  camp,  m  the  hope  of  recov* 
jring  him,  but  loet  (he  afternoon  to  ni  purpone,  ns  we  did  not  see  him 

|4igain.    Astronomical  observations  placed  us  in  longitude  100^  '3H'  \Qf', 

]  latitude  4U^  AW  55". 

Jul^  I. — Along  our  rood  lodoy  the  prairie  bottom  was  more  elevated  and 

Idry,  ond  the  hitU  which  border  the  right  side  of  the  river  higher  and  more 
broken  and  picturesque  in  the  outline.  The  country  too  was  better  tim* 
bered.  Aa  we  were  riding  quifily  nlnng  the  bank,  a  grnnd  herti  of  buflolo, 
some  seven  or  eight  hundred  in  number,  came  crowding  up  from  (he  river, 

I  where  thev  hnd  been  (o  drink,  and  commenced  crossing  (he  plain  slowly, 
eating  as  they  went.  The  wind  was  favorable,  the  coolness  of  the  morning 
invited  to  exercise,  (he  ground  wn^  apparently  good,  and  (he  distance  across 
ihe  prairie,  two  or  three  miles,  gave  \»  a  fine  opportunity  (o  charge  (hem  be- 
fore  they  could  get  among  the  river  hilla.  It  wns  too  fine  n  pro«pec(  for  a 
chose  (o  be  loa(,  and,  halting  for  n  few  momenta,  the  hunters  were  brought 
up  and  saddled,  and  Kit  Cnraon,  Maxwell,  and  I,  started  together.  They 
were  now  somewhat  leas  than  half  a  mile  distant,  ond  we  rode  eavily  olong 
until  within  about  three  hundred  yards,  when  n  sudden  ogitniion,  o  waver* 
ing  in  the  bond,  nnd  a  galloping  to  and  fro  of  some  whion  were  acottered 
along  the  skirts,  gave  ua  (he  inliniuiion  iha(  we  were  diacovered.  We  started 
ogether  at  a  hand  gallop,  riding  ateodily  obreoat  of  each  other,  and  here  tba 
interest  of  (he  chose  became  so  engroeaingly  intense,  that  we  were  sensible  (o 
nothing  eUe.  We  were  now  closing  upon  (hem  rapidly,  and  the  front  of 
he  mass  wai  already  in  rapid  motion  for  the  hilla,  and  in  a  few  seconds  the 
movement  had  communicated  itself  to  the  whole  herd. 

A  crowd  of  bulls,  as  usual,  brought  up  the  reor,  and  every  now  and  then 
me  of  them  fuccd  about,  and  then  dashed  on  after  the  band  o  short  dia> 
tonce,  and  turned  and  looked  ogain,  ns  if  more  than  half  inclined  to  stand 
and  fight.  In  a  few  moments,  however,  during  which  we  had  been  quick* 
ening  our  pace,  the  rout  wns  universal,  and  we  were  going  over  the  ground 
like  n  hurricane.  When  at  about  thirty  yards  we  save  the  usual  shout,  the 
hunters  pas  dt  ehargt,  ond  broke  into  the  herd.  We  entered  on  the  side, 
'4 


m\ 


hi 


[«48] 


19 


(be  nMM  giving  way  in  every  direcCion  in  their  heedlcM  course.  Many  of 
(he  btilLs,  leai  active  end  less  fleet  than  the  cows,  paying  no  attention  to  (he 
ground,  and  occupied  solely  with  the  hiinfer,  were  precipitated  to  the  earth 
with  great  force,  rolling  over  and  over  with  the  violence  of  (he  shock,  and 
hardly  dis(inguishable  in  the  dust.  We  scpura(ed  on  entering,  each  singling 
out  his  game. 

My  horse  was  a  trained  hunter,  famous  in  the  west,  under  the  name  of 
Proveau,  and  with  his  eyes  flashing,  and  the  foam  flying  from  his  mouth,, 
•prang  on  after  the  cow  like  a  tiger.  In  a  few  moments  he  brought  me 
alongside  of  her,  and  rising  in  the  stirrups,  I  fired  at  the  distance  of  a  yard, 
the  ball  entering  ul  the  termination  of  the  long  hair,  and  passing  near  the 
heart.  She  fell  headlong  at  the  report  of  the  gun,  and  checking  my  horse, 
I  looked  around  for  my  companions.  At  a  little  distance  Kit  was  on  the 
ground,  engaged  in  tying  his  horse  to  the  horns  of  a  cow  which  he  was  pre- 
paring to  cu(  up.  Among  the  scattered  bands  at  some  distance  belov/  f 
caught  a  glimpse  of  Maxwell ;  and  while  I  was  looking,  a  .ight  wreath  of 
white  smoke  curled  away  from  his  gun,  of  which  I  was  too  far  to  hear 
the  report.  Nearer,  and  between  me  and  the  hills,  towards  which  they  were 
directing  their  course,  was  the  .body  of  the  herd,  and  giving  my  horse  the 
rein,  we  dashed  after  them.  A  thick  cloud  of  dust  hung  upon  their  rear, 
which  filled  my  mouth  and  eyes,  and  nearly  smothered  me.  In  the  midst 
of  this  I  could  see  nothing,  and  the  buflalo  were  not  distinguishable  until 
within  thirty  feet.  They  crowded  together  more  densely  still  as  I  came  upon 
(hem  and  rushed  along  in  such  a  compact  body  that  I  could  not  obtain  an 
entrance — the  horse  almost  leaping  upon  them.  In  a  few  moments  the  mass 
divided  to  the  right  and  left,  the  horns  clattering  with  a  noise  heard  above 
every  thing  else,  and  my  horse  darted  into  the  opening.  Five  or  six  bull» 
charged  on  us  as  we  dashed  along  the  line,  but  were  left  far  behind,  and 
singling  out  a  cow,  I  gave  her  my  fire,  but  struck  too  high.  She  gave  a 
tremendous  leap,  and  scoured  on  swifter  than  before.  I  reined  up  my  horse,, 
and  the  band  swept  on  like  a  torrent,  and  left  the  place  quiet  and  clear. 
Our  chase  had  led  us  into  dangerous  ground.  A  prairie-dog  village  so 
thickly  settled  that  there  were  three  or  four  holes  in  every  twenty  yards 
square,  occupied  the  whole  bottom  for  nearly  two  miles  in  length.  Looking 
around,  I  saw  only  one  of  the  hunters,  nearly  out  of  sight,  and  the  long  dark 
line  of  out  caravan  crawling  along  ihree  or  four  miles  distant.  After  a  march 
of  twenty-four  miles,  we  encamped  at  nightfall,  one  mile  and  a  half  above 
(he  lower  end  of  Brady's  island.  The  breadth  of  this  arm  of  th<i  river  was 
eight  hundred  and  eighty  yards,  and  the  water  nowhere  two  feet  in  depth. 
The  island  bears  the  name  of  a  man  killed  on  this  spot  some  years  ago.  His 
party  had  encamped  here,  three  in  company,  and  one  of  the  number  went  ofiT 
to  hunt,  leaving  Brady  and  his  companion  together.  These  two  had  fre- 
quently quarrelled,  and  on  the  hunter's  return  he  found  Brady  dead,  and 
was  told  that  he  had  shot  himself  accidentally.  He  was  buried  here  on  the 
bank,  but,  as  usual,  the  wolves  had  torn  him  outj  and  some  human  bones 
that  were  lying  on  the  ground  we  supposed  were  his.  Troops  of  wolves 
that  were  hanging  on  the  skirts  of  the  buffalo,  kept  up  an  yninterruptedl 
howling  during  the  night,  venturing  almost  into  camp.  In  the  morning, 
they  were  sitting  at  a  short  distance,  barking,  and  impatiently  wailing  our 
departure  to  fall  upon  the  bones. 

July  2. — The  morning  was  cool  and  smoky.     Our  road  led  closer  to  the 
hills,  which  here  increased  in  elevation,  presenting  nn  outline  of  conical 


peaks 


19 


[243] 


peaks  (hre«  hundred  to  five  hundred  feet  high.  Some  timber,  apparently 
pine,  grew  in  the  ravines,  and  streaks  of  clay  or  sand  whiten  their  slopes. 
We  crossed  during  the  morning  a  number  of  hollows,  timbered  principallv 
with  box  elder  (acer  negundo),  poplar,  and  elm.  Brady's  island  is  well 
wooded,  and  all  the  river  along  which  our  road  led  to-day  may,  in  general, 
be  :alled  tolerably  well  timbered.  We  passed  near  an  encampment  of  the 
Oregon  emigrants,  where  they  appear  to  have  reposed  several  days.  A  va> 
riety  of  huusehold  urricles  were  scattered  about,  and  they  had  probably  dis* 
burdened  themselves  here  of  many  things  not  absolutely  necessary.  I  had 
left  the  usual  road  before  the  mid-day  halt,  and  in  the  afternoon,  having  sent 
several  men  in  advance  to  reconnoitre,  marched  directly  for  the  mouth  of  the 
South  fork.  On  our  arrival,  the  horsemen  vt  ere  sent  in  and  scattered  about 
the  liver  to  search  the  best  fording  places,  and  the  carls  followed  immediately. 
The  stream  is  here  divided  by  an  island  into  two  channels.  The  southern 
is  four  hundred  and  uily  feet  wide,  having  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  water 
in  the  deepest  places.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  dry  bars,  the  bed  of  the 
river  is  generally  quicksands,  in  which  the  carts  bei^an  to  sink  rapidly  so  soon 
as  the  mules  halted,  so  that  it  was  necessary  to  keep  them  consUtntly  ia 
motion. 

The  northern  channel,  2,250  feet  wide,  was  somewhat  deeper,  having  fre- 
quently three  feet  water  in  the  numerous  small  channels,  with  a  bed  of  coarse 
gravel.  The  whole  breadth  of  the  Nebraska,  immediately  below  the  junc- 
tion, ia  5,350  feet.  All  our  equipage  had  reached  the  left  bunk  safely  at  six 
o'clock,  tniving  today  made  twenty  miles.  We  encamped  at  the  point  of 
land  immediately  at  the  junction  of  the  North  and  South  forks.  Between 
the  streams  is  a  low  rich  prairie,  extending  from  their  confluence  18  miles 
westwardly  to  the  bordering  hills,  where  it  is  5^  miles  wide.  It  is  covered 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  and  along  the  banks  is  a  slight  and  scattered 
fringe  of  cottonwood  and  willow.  In  the  buffalo  trails  and  wallows,  i  re- 
marked saline  efflorescences,  to  which  a  rapid  evaporation  in  the  great  heat 
of  the  sun  probably  contributes,  as  the  soil  is  entirely  unprotected  by  timber. 
In  the  vicinity  of  these  places,  there  was  a  bluish  grass,  which  the  cattle 
refuse  to  eat,  called  by  the  voyageurs  "  /lerbe  salee,'"  (salt  grass.)  The  lati- 
tude of  the  junction  is  41°  4'  47",  and  longitude  by  chronometer  and  lunar 
distances,  101°  21'  24'.  The  elevation  above  the  sea  is  about  2,700  feet. 
The  hunters  came  in  with  a  fat  cow,  and,  as  we  had  labored  hard,  we  en- 
joyed well  a  supper  of  roasted  ribs  and  boudvis^  the  chef  Wceuvre  of  a 
prairie  cook.  Mosquitoes  thronged  about  us  this  evening ;  but  by  10  o'clock, 
when  the  thermometer  had  fallen  to  47°,  they  had  all  disappeared. 

jidy  3. — As  this  was  to  be  a  point  in  our  homeward  journey,  I  made  a 
•oc'Ae  (a  term  used  in  all  this  country  for  what  is  hid  in  the  grounds  of  a  bar- 
rel of  pork.  It  was  impossible  to  conceal  such  a  proceeding  from  the  tiharp 
eyes  of  our  Cheyenne  companions,  and  I  therefore  told  them  to  go  and  see 
what  it  was  they  were  burying.  They  would  otherwise  have  not  failed  to 
return  and  destroy  our  cache,  in  expectation  of  some  rich  booty ;  but  pork 
they  dislike  and  never  eat  We  left  our  camp  at  9,  cunlinuing  up  the  South 
fork,  the  prairie  bottom  affording  us  a  fair  road ;  but  in  the  long  grass  we 
roused  myriads  of  mosquitoes  and  flies,  from  which  our  hur^es  siilleied  se- 
verely. The  day  was  smoky,  with  a  pleasant  breeze  from  i!ie  soiiili,  and  the 
plains  on  the  opposite  side  were  covered  with  buiralo.  Huviri'^  travelled 
twenty-five  miles  we  encamped  at  G  in  the  evcnin<;,  and  the  whtix  were  sent 
across  the  river  for  wood,  as  there  is  none  here  on  tlie  left  bank.     Oiii'  fires 


[243] 


20 


were  pnriially  mnde  of  the  lots  de  vachty  the  dry  excrement  of  the  buflalo, 
which  like  that  of  the  camel  in  the  Arobian  deserts,  furnishes  to  the  traveller 
n  very  good  substitute  for  woo<l,  burning  like  luif.  Wolves  in  great  numbcn 
Bunrounded  us  during  the  night,  crossing  ond  recrossing  from  the  opposite 
herds  to  our  camp,  and  howling  and  Irotimgobout  in  the  river  until  morning. 

Ji4y  4. — The  morning  was  very  smoky,  the  sun  shining  dimly  and  red, 
as  in  a  thick  fog.  The  camp  was  roused  with  a  salute  at  daybreak,  and  from 
our  scanty  store  a  portion  of  what  our  Indian  friends  called  the  "  red  fire> 
water"  served  out  to  the  men.  While  we  were  at  breakfast,  a  buffalo  calf 
broke  through  the  camp,  followed  by  a  couple  of  wolves.  In  its  fright,  it 
had  probably  mistaken  us  for  a  band  of  buffalo.  The  wolves  were  obliged 
(0  make  a  circuit  around  the  camp,  so  that  the  calf  got  a  little  the  start,  and 
strained  every  nerve  to  reach  a  large  herd  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  about  two 
miles  distant ;  but  first  one  and  then  another  and  another  wolf  joined  in  the 
chace,  until  his  pursuers  amounted  to  twenty  or  thirty,  and  they  ran  him 
down  before  he  could  reach  his  friends.  There  were  a  few  bulls  near  the 
place,  and  one  of  them  attacked  the  wolves  and  tried  to  rescue  him  ;  but  was 
driven  off  immediately,  and  the  little  animal  fell  an  easy  prey,  half  devoured 
before  he  was  dead.  We  watched  the  chace  with  the  interest  always  felt  for 
the  weak,  and  had  there  been  a  saddled  horse  at  hand,  he  would  have  fared 
better.  Leaving  camp,  our  road  soon  approached  the  hills  in  which  strata  of 
a  marl  like  that  of  the  chimney  rock,  hereafter  described,  make  their  appear- 
ance. It  is  probably  of  this  rock  that  the  hills,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Platte,  a  little  below  the  junction,  are  composed,  and  which  are  worked  by 
the  winds  and  rains  into  sharp  peaks  and  cones,  giving  them,  in  contrast  to 
the  surrounding  level  region,  something  of  a  picturesque  appearance.  We 
crossed  this  morning  numerous  beds  of  the  small  creeks,  which  in  the  time 
of  rains  and  melting  snow,  pour  down  from  the  ridge,  bringing  down  with 
them  always  great  quantities  of  sand  and  gravel,  which  have  gradually  raised 
their  beds  four  to  ten  feet  above  the  level  of  the  prairie  which  they  cross, 
making  each  one  of  them  a  miniature  Po.  Raised  in  this  way  above  the  sur- 
rounding prairie,  without  any  bank,  the  long  yellow  and  winding  line  of  their 
beds  resembles  a  causeway  from  the  hills  to  the  river.  Many  spots  on  the 
prairie  are  yellow  with  sunflower  ( helianthus. ) 

As  we  were  riding  slowly  along  this  afternoon,  clouds  of  dust  in  the  rav- 
ines, among  the  hills  to  the  right,  suddenly  attracted  our  attention,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  column  after  column  of  buffalo  came  galloping  down,  inalcing 
directly  to  the  river.  By  the  time  the  leading  herds  had  reached  the  water, 
the  prairie  was  darkened  with  the  dense  masses.  Immediately  before  us, 
when  the  bands  first  came  down  into  the  valley,  stretched  an  unbroken  line, 
the  head  of  which  was  lost  among  the  river  hills  on  the  opposite  side,  and  still 
they  poured  down  from  the  ridge  on  our  right.  From  hill  to  hill  the  prairie  bot- 
tom was  certainly  not  less  than  two  miles  wide,  and  allowing  the  animals  to 
lie  ten  feet  apart,  and  only  ten  in  a  line,  there  were  already  ll,UOO  in  view. 
Some  idea  may  thus  be  formed  of  their  number  when  they  had  occupied  the 
whole  plain.  In  a  short  time  they  surrounded  us  on  every  side,  extending 
for  several  miles  in  the  rear,  and  forward,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  leav- 
ing around  us  as  we  advanced,  an  open  space  of  ooly  two  or  three  hundred 
yards.  This  movement  of  the  buffalo  indicated  to  us  the  presence  of  In- 
dians on  the  North  fork. 

I  hulled  enrlier  than  usual,  about  forty  miles  from  the  junction,  and  all 
hands  were  soon  busily  engaged  ia  preparing  a  feast  to  celebia'e  the  day. 


tl 


[2481 


half  devoured 


I 


The  kindness  of  our  friends  At  St.  Louis  had  provided  us  with  a  large  sup> 
ply  of  excellent  preserves  and  lich  fruit  cake ;  and  when  these  were  added 
to  a  macaroni  soup  and  variously  prepared  dishes  of  the  choicest  buffalo 
meat,  crowned  with  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  enjoyed  with  prairie  appetite,  we  felt, 
as  we  sat  in  barbaric  luxury  around  our  smoking  supper  on  the  grass,  a  greater 
sensation  of  enjoyment  than  the  Roman  epicure  at  his  perfumed  feast.  But 
roost  of  all  it  seemed  to  please  our  Indian  friends,  who  in  the  unrestrained 
joyment  of  the  moment,  demanded  to  know  if  our  "  Medicine  days  came 
often."  No  restraint  xvaa  exercised  at  the  hospitable  board,  and,  to  the  great 
delight  of  his  elders,  our  jruung  Indian  lad  made  himself  extremely  drunk. 

Our  encampment  was  within  a  few  niHesof  the  place  where  the  road  cros8(;S 
to  the  North  fork,  and  various  reasons  led  me  to  divide  my  party  at  this  point. 
The  North  fork  was  the  principal  object  of  my  survey,  but  I  was  desirous 
to  ascend  the  South  branch,  with  a  view  of  obtaining  some  astronomical 
positions,  and  determining  the  mouths  of  its  tributaries  as  far  as  St.  Vrain's 
fort,  estimated  to  be  some  two  hundred  miles  further  up  the  river,  and  near 
to  Long's  peak.  There  I  hoped  to  obtain  some  mules,  which  I  found 
would  be  necessary  to  relieve  my  horses.  In  a  military  point  of  view.  I  was 
desirous  to  form  some  opinion  of  the  country  relative  to  the  establishment 
of  posts  on  a  line  conncctino;  the  settlements  with  the  South  pass  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  by  way  of  the  Arkansas,  the  South  and  Laramie  forks 
of  the  Platte.  Crossing  the  country  northwestwardly  from  St.  Vrain's 
fort,  to  the  American  company's  fort  at  the  mouth  of  Laramie,  would  give 
me  some  acquaintance  with  the  affluents  which  head  in  the  mountains  be- 
tween the  two ;  I  therefore  determined  to  set  out  the  next  morning,  ac« 
companied  by  Mr.  Preuss  and  four  men.  Maxwell,  Bernier,  Ayot,  and  Basil 
Lajeunesse.  Our  Cheyennes,  whose  village  lay  up  this  river,  also  decid- 
ed to  accompany  us.  The  party  I  left  in  charjre  of  Clement  Lambert, 
with  orders  to  cross  to  the  North  fork ;  and  at  some  covenient  place,  near 
to  the  Coulee  des  Prenes,  make  a  cache  of  every  thing  not  absolutely 
necessary  to  the  further  progress  of  our  expedition.  From  this  point,  using 
the  most  guarded  precaution  in  his  march  through  the  country,  he  was  to 
proceed  to  the  American  company's  fort  at  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork, 
and  await  my  arrival,  which  would  be  prior  to  the  16th,  as  on  that  and  the 
following  night  would  occur  some  occultations  which  I  was  desirous  to 
obtain  at  that  place. 

July  5. — Before  breakfast  all  was  ready.  We  had  one  led  horse  in  ad- 
dition to  those  we  rode,  and  a  pack  mule,(lestined  to  carry  our  instruments, 
provisions,  and  baggage ;  the  last  two  articles  not  being  of  very  great 
weight.  The  instruments  consisted  of  a  sextant,  artificial  horizon,  d&c,  a 
barometer,  spy-glass,  and  compass.  The  chronomoter  I  of  course  kept  on 
my  person.  I  had  ordered  the  cook  to  put  up  for  us  some  flour,  coffee, 
and  sugar,  and  our  rifles  were  to  furnish  the  rest.  One  blanket,  in  addi- 
tion to  his  saddle  and  saddle  blanket,  furnished  the  materials  for  each 
man's  bed,  and  every  one  was  provided  with  a  change  of  linen.  All  were 
armed  with  rifles  or  donble  barrelled  guns;  and,  in  addition  to  these,  Max- 
well and  myself  were  furnished  with  excellent  pistols.  Thus  accoutred, 
we  took  a  parting  breakfast  with  our  friends,  and  set  forth. 

Our  journey  the  first  day  afforded  nothing  of  any  interest.  We  shot 
n  buffalo  toward  sunset,  and  having  obtained  some  meat  for  our  even- 
ing meal,  encamped  where  a  little  timber  afforded  us  the  means  of  making 
a  fire.     Having  disposed  our  meat  on  roasting  slicks,  we  proceeded  to  uu- 


\ 
I 


[248] 


22 


\v 


!^' 


pack  our  baled  in  ecarch  of  cofTue  and  siignr,  and  flour  for  bread.  Witli 
the  exception  of  a  littlo  parched  coflbo,  unffround,  we  found  nothing. 
Our  cook  had  neglected  to  put  it  up,  or  it  had  been  somehow  forgotten. 
Tired  and  hungry,  with  toudi  bull  meat  without  salt,  for  we  hud  not  beea 
able  to  kill  a  cow,  and  a  little  bitter  coffee,  we  sat  down  in  silence  to  our 
miserable  fore,  a  very  disconsolate  party ;  for  yesterday's  feast  was  yet  fresh 
in  our  memories,  and  this  was  our  nrst  brush  with  misfortune.  "Each 
man  took  his  blanket,  and  laid  himself  down  silently ;  for  the  worst  part 
of  these  mishaps  is,  tliat  they  make  people  ill-humoured.  To-day  we  had 
travelled  about  thir(y-six  miles. 

Julu  6.— Finding  that  our  present  excursion  would  be  attended  with 
considerable  hardship,  and  unwilling  to  expose  more  persons  than  neces- 
sary, I  determined  to  send  Mr.  Preuss  back  to  the  party.  His  horse,  too, 
appeared  in  no  condition  to  support  the  journey,  and  accordingly,  after 
breakfast,  ho  took  (he  road  across  the  hills  attended  by  one  of  my  most 
trusty  men,  Bornier.  The  ridge  between  the  river  is  here  about  fifteen 
miles  broad,  and  I  expected  he  would  probably  strike  the  fork  near  their 
evening  ramp.  At  all  events  he  would  not  fail  to  find  their  trail  and  re- 
join them  the  next  day. 

We  continued  our  journey,  seven  in  number,  including  the  three  Chey- 
ennes.  Our  general  course  was  southwest,  up  the  valley  of  the  river, 
which  wns  sandy,  bordered  on  the  northern  side  of  the  valley  by  a  low 
ridge,  and  on  the  south,  after  seven  or  eight  miles,  the  river  hills  became 
higher.  Six  miles  from  oiHr  *'esting  place  we  crossed  the  bed  of  a  consider- 
able stream,  now  entirely  dry,  a  bed  of  sand.  In  a  grove  of  willows  near 
the  mouth  were  the  remains  of  a  considerable  fort,  constructed  of  trunks  of 
large  trees.  It  was  apparently  very  old,  and  had  probably  been  the  scene 
of  some  hostile  encounter  among  the  roving  tribes.  Its  solitude  formed  an 
impressive  contrast  to  the  picture  which  our  imaginations  involuntarily 
drew  of  the  busy  scene  which  had  been  enacted  here.  The  timber  ap- 
peared to  have  been  much  more  extensive  formerly  than  now.  There 
were  but  a  few  trees,  a  kind  of  long-leaved  willow,  siunding;  and  numerous 
trunks  of  large  trees  were  scattered  about  on  the  ground.  In  many  similar 
places  I  had  occasion  to  remark  an  apparent  progressive  decay  in  the  tim- 
ber* Ten  njiles  further  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Lodge  Pole  creek,  a 
clear  and  handsome  stream,  running  through  a  broad  valley.  In  its  course 
through  the  bottom  it  has  a  uniform  breiwth  of  twenty-two  feet,  and  six 
inches  in  depth.  A  few  willows  on  the  banks  strike  pleasantly  on  the  eye, 
by  their  greenness,  in  the  midst  of  the  hot  and  barren  sands. 

The  amorpha  was  frequent  among  the  ravines ;  but  the  sunflower  {heli- 
anthus)  was  the  characteristic ;  and  flowers  of  deep  warm  colors  seem  most 
to  love  the  sandy  soil.  The  impression  of  the  country  travelled  over  today, 
was  one  of  dry  and  barren  sands.  We  turned  in  towards  the  river  at  noon, 
and  gave  our  horses  two  hours  for  food  and  rest.  I  had  no  other  thermom- 
eter than  the  one  attached  to  the  barometer,  which  stood  at  89°,  the  height  of 
the  colunm  in  the  barometer  being  26.235,  at  meridian.  The  sky  was  clear, 
with  a  high  wind  from  the  south.  At  2,  we  continued  our  journey ;  the 
wind  had  moderated,  and  it  became  almost  unendurably  hot,  and  our  ani- 
mals suflfered  severely.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  wind  rose  sud- 
denly, and  blew  hard  from  the  southwest,  with  thunder  and  lightning  and 
squalls  of  rain  ;  these  were  blown  against  us  with  violence  by  the  wind, 
and  halting,  we  turned  our  backs  to  the  storm  until  it  blew  over.    Antelope 


gormg  V 


.■t 


23 


[248] 


were  tolerably  frequent,  with  a  Inr^^e  gray  hnre  ;  but  the  former  were  shy, 
and  (he  htiter  hardly  worth  the  delay  of  stopping  to  shoot  tiiem ;  so,  as  even- 

|ing  drew  near,  we  again  had  recourse  to  an  old  bull,  and  encamped  at  buq- 
sei  on  on  island  in  the  Platte. 
We  ate  our  meat  with  good  relish  this  evening,  for  we  were  all  in  fine 

I  health,  and  had  ridden  nearly  all  of  a  long  summer's  day,  with  a  burning 
sun  reflected  from  the  sands.  My  companions  slept,  rolled  up  in  their 
blankets,  and  the  Indians  lay  in  the  grass  near  the  fire,  hut  my  sleeping 

I  place  generally  had  an  air  of  more  pretension.  Our  rifles  were  tied  to- 
gether  near  the  muzzle,  the  butts  resting  on  the  ground,  and  a  knife  laid  oa 
the  rope  to  cut  away  in  case  of  an  alarm.  Over  this,  which  made  a  kind 
of  frame,  was  thrown  a  large  India-rubber  cloth,  which  we  used  to  cover 

[our  packs.  This  made  a  tent  sufficiently  large  to  receive  about  half  of  my 
bed,  and  was  a  place  of  shelter  for  my  instruments ;  and  as  I  was  careful 
always  to  put  this  part  against  the  wind,  I  could  lie  here  with  a  sensation 

I  of  satisfied  enjoyment,  and  hear  the  wind  blow  and  the  rain  pauer  close  to 
my  head,  and  know  that  I  should  he  at  least  half  dry.    Certamly,  I  never 

I  slept  more  soundly.    The  barometer  at  sunset  was  26.010,  thermometer 

[81°,  and  cloudy  ;  but  a  gale  from  the  west  sprang  up  with  the  setting  sun, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  swept  away  every  cloud  from  the  sky.  The  even- 
ing was  very  fine,  and  1  remained  up  to  take  some  astronomical  observer 
tions,  which  made  our  position  in  latitude  40*^  51'  17",  and  longitude 
103°  35'  04". 
July  7. — At  our  camp  this  morning,  at  6  o'clock,  the  barometer  was  at 

1 26.183,  thermopneter  69°,  and  clear,  with  a  light  wind  from  the  southwest. 
The  past  night  had  been  squally,  with  high  winds,  and  occasionally  a  few 

I  <]rops  of  rain.    Our  cooking  did  not  occupy  niu'ch  time,  and  we  leu  camp 

|«arly.  Nothing  of  interest  occurred  during  the  morning.  The  same 
dreary  barrenness,  except  that  a  hard  marly  clay  had  replaced  the  sandy 
soil.  Buffalo  absolutely  covered  the  plain  on  both  sides  the  river,  and 
whenever  we  ascended  the  hills,  scattered  herds  gave  life  to  the  view  iu 
every  direction.  A  small  drove  of  wild  horses  made  their  appearance  on 
the  low  river  bottoms,  a  mile  or  two  to  the  left,  and  I  sent  off  one  of  the 
Indians  (who  seemed  very  eager  to  catch  one)  on  my  led  horse,  a  spirited 
and  fleet  animal.  The  savage  manoeuvred  a  little  to  get  the  wind  of  the 
horses,  in  which  he  succeeded ;  approaching  within  a  hundred  yards  with- 
out being  discovered.  The  chase  for  a  few  minutes  was  animated  and 
interesting.  My  hunter  easily  overtook  and  passed  the  hindmost  of  the 
wild  drove,  which  the  Indian  did  not  attempt  to  lasso  ;  all  his  efforts  being 

J  directed  to  the  capture  of  the  leader.     But  the  strength  of  the  horse,  weak- 

|«ned  by  the  insufficient  nourishment  of  grasit,  failed  in  a  race,  and  all  the 
drove  escaped.     We  halted  at  noon  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  the  barometer 

|at  that  time  being  26.192,  and  the  thermometer  103°,  with  a  light  air 
from  the  south  and  clear  weather. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  dust  rising  among  the  hills  at  a  particular 
place  attracted  our  attention,  and  riding  up  we  found  a  band  of  eighteen  or 

I  twenty  buffalo  bulls  engaged  in  a  desperate  fight.  Though  butting  and 
goring  were  bestowed  liberally  and  without  distinction,  yet  their  efforts  were 
4jvidently  directed  against  one,  a  huge  gaunt  old  bull,  very  lean,  while  his 
adversaries  were  all  fat  and  in  good  order.  He  appeareil  very  weak,  and 
had  already  received  some  wounds,  and  while  we  were  looking  on  was  sev- 
eral times  knocked  down  and  badly  hurt,  and  a  very  few  moments  would 


I 


;a 


i 


li  1 

I 


[843] 


U 


hate  ptit  ftn  end  to  hitn.  Of  coune  we  look  the  aide  of  the  weaker  paitjrv  | 
and  atiocked  the  herd,  but  they  were  ao  blind  with  rage  that  ihey  fought  onr 
utterly  rcgardleee  of  our  pretence,  although  on  foot  and  on  honeback  w» 
were  firing  in  open  view  within  twenty  yards  of  tliem.  But  thia  did  not 
latt  long.  In  a  very  few  leconda  we  created  a  commotion  annont  ihem. 
One  or  two  which  were  knocked  over  by  the  balls  jumped  up  and  ran  oft  \ 
into  the  hills,  and  they  began  to  retreat  slowly  along  a  broad  ravine  to  the 
river,  fighting  furiously  as  the^  went.  By  the  time  they  hod  reached  the 
bottom  we  had  pretty  well  dispersed  them,  and  the  old  bull  hobbled  off  to> 
lie  down  somewhere.  One  of  his  enemies  remained  on  the  groimd  where 
we  had  first  fired  upon  them,  and  we  stopped  there  for  a  short  time  to  cut 
from  him  some  meat  for  our  supper.  We  nad  neglected  to  secure  our  horses^ 
thinking  it  nn  unnecessary  precaution  in  their  fatigued  condition ;  but  our 
mule  took  it  into  his  head  to  start,  and  awnv  he  went,  followed  at  full  *pcMl 
by  the  pack-horse,  with  all  the  baggage  and  instruments  on  his  back.  They 
were  recovered  and  brought  back,  after  a  chose  of  a  mile.  Fortunately  dvery 
thing  was  well  secured,  so  that  nothing,  not  even  the  barometer,  was  in  tha 
least  injured. 

The  sun  was  getting  low,  and  some  narrow  lines  of  timber  four  or  five 
miles  distbni,  promised  us  a  pleasant  camp,  where,  with  plenty  of  wood  for 
fire,  and  comfortable  shelter,  and  rich  grass  for  our  animals,  we  should  find 
clear  cool  springs,  instead  of  the  warm  water  of  the  Plotte.  On  our  arrivat 
we  found  the  bed  of  a  stream  fifty  to  one  hundred  feet  wide,  sunk  soma 
thirty  feet  below  tho  level  df  the  prairie,  with  perpendicular  banks,  borderisd 
by  a  fringe  of  green  cottonwood,  but  not  a  drop  of  water.  There  weret 
several  small  forks  to  the  stream  all  in  the  same  condition.  With  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Platte  bottom,  the  country  seemed  to  be  of  a  clay  formation, 
dry,  and  perfectly  devoid  of  any  moisture,  and  baked  hard  by  the  sun. 
Turning  off  towards  the  river,  we  reached  the  bank  in  about  a  mile,  and 
were  delighted  to  find  an  old  tree  with  thick  foliage  and  spreading  branches^ 
where  we  encamped.  At  sunset  the  barometer  wiis  at  26,950,  thermometer 
81°,  with  a  strong  wind  from  S.  20°  E.,  and  the  sky  partially  covered 
with  heavy  masses  of  cloud,  which  settled  a  little  towards  the  horizon  b^ 
10  o'clock,  leaving  it  sufficiently  cleax  for  astronomical  observations,  which, 
placed  us  in  latitude  40°  33'  26"  and  longitude  104°  02'  13". 

July  8. — The  morning  was  very  pleasant.  The  breeze  was  fresh  fronii 
S.  60°  E.  with  few  clouds,  the  barometer  at  6  o'clock  standing  at  25,970, 
and  the  thermometer  at  70°-.  Since  leaving  the  forks  our  route  had  passed 
over  a  country  alternately  clay  and  sand,  each  presenting  the  same  naked 
waste.  On  leaving  camp  this  morning,  we  struck  agam  a  sandy  regiou,^ 
in  which  the  vegetation  appeared  somewhat  more  vigorous  than  that  which 
we  had  observed  for  the  last  f«  w  days,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
were  some  tolerably  large  groves  of  timber. 

Journeying  along,  we  came  suddenly  upon  a  place  where  the  ground 
was  covered  with  horses  tracks,  which  had  been  mad*^  sitio.  the  rain,  ond 
indicated  the  immediate  presence  of  Indians  in  our  neighborhood.  The 
buffalo,  too,  which  the  day  before  had  been  so  numerous,  were  nowhere  in 
sight,  another  sure  indication  that  there  were  people  near.  Riding  on,  we 
discovered  the  carcass  of  a  buffalo  recently  killed,  perhaps  the  day  before. 
We  scanned  the  horizon  carefully  with  the  glass,  but  no  living  object  was 
to  be  seen.  For  the  next  mile  or  two  the  ground  wns  dotted  with  buffalo 
carcasses,  which  showed  that  the  Indians  had  made  a  surround  here,  and 


w 


t«4») 


rem  in  eontidferable  feree.  We  wtot  on  qnickly  and  cautlontly,  ke^plitif 
|he  river  bottom,  and  rareftilly  avoiding  the  hilli:  bnt  we  met  with  no  iti* 
|erruption,  and  began  to  grow  cartlesa  again.  We  had  already  lotot  one  of 
>nr  hortei,  and  hem  BatiPii  mule  showed  symntonn  of  giving  dut,  and 
Inaily  rvfitsed  to  advance,  being  what  the  Cannaians  call  re$((.  He  there- 
lore  cfismoimted,  and  drove  her  along  before  him,  but  thia  was  a  very  sIbiV 
Vay  of  travelling.  We  had  inadvertently  got  about  half  a  mile  in  advance, 
^ut  our  Gheyennes,  who  were  generally  a  mile  or  two  in  the  rear,  remained 
rith  him.  Inhere  were  pome  dark  looking  objects  among  the  hills,  obuut 
ro  miles  to  the  left,  here  low  and  undulating,  which  we  had  seen  (br  a 
Ittle  time,  and  supposed  to  be  buflfalo^  coming  In  to  water;  bnthappeuinr 
p  look  behind,  Maxwell  saw  the  Gheyennes  whipping  up  furiously,  and 
[nother  glance  at  the  datk  objects  showed  them  ut  once  to  be  Iiidlnni 
pminff  up  at  speed.        * 

Had  we  been  well  mounted  and  disencumbered  of  instruments,  we  might 
^ave  set  them  at  defiance,  but  as  it  was,  wc  were  fairly  ctusrht.  It  was  too 
We  to  rejoin  our  friends,  and  we  endeavored  to  gain  a  clump  of  timber^ 
[bout  half  a  mile  ahead,  but  the  instruments  and  the  tired  slate  of  our 
[orses  did  not  allow  us  to  go  faster  than  a  steady  cunter,  and  they  were 
[aining  on  us  fast.  At  first  they  did  not  appear  to  be  more  than  fifteen  or 
wenty  in  number,  but  group  after  group  darted  into  view  at  the  top  of  tho 
kills,  until  all  the  little  eminences  seemed  in  motion,  and  in  a  few  minutes' 
fom  the  time  they  were  first  discovered,  two  or  three  hundred,  naked  to  the 
freech  cloth,  were  sweeping  across  the  prairie.  In  a  few  hundred  yaids 
|e  discovered  that  the  timber  We  were  endeavoring  to  make,  was  on  tho 
iposiie  side  of  the  river,  and  before  we  could  reach  the  bank,  down  came 
lu  Indians  upon  us. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  in  a  few  seconds  more  the  leadin?  man,  and, 
3rhaps,  some  of  his  companions,  would  have  rolled  in  the  dust,  for  w« 
|ad  jerked  the  covers  from  our  guns,  and  our  fingers  were  on  the  triggers ; 
[len  in  such  cases  generally  act  from  instinct,  and  a  charge  from  three 
[undred  naked  savages  is  a  circunistance  not  well  calculated  to  promote  a 
)ol  exercise  of  judgment.  Just  as  he  was  about  to  fire,  Maxwell  recog- 
bsed  the  leadinsr  Indian,  and  shouted  (o  him  in  the  Indian  language, 
[oft're  a  fool,  God  damn  you,  don't  you  know  me  ?  The  sound  of  his  own 
pguage  seemed  to  shock  the  savage,  and  swerving  his  horse  a  little,  he 
asscd  us  like  an  arrow.  He  wheeled,  as  I  rode  out  toward  him,  and  gave 
|e  his  hand,  strikine:  his  breast  and  exclaiming,  Arapah6  !  They  proved 
|je  a  village  of  that  nation  among  whom  Maxwell  had  resided  as  a 
»der  a  year  or  two  previously,  ana  recognised  him  accordingly.  We 
sre  soon  in  the  midst  of  the  hand,  aswering  as  well  as  we  could  a  multi- 
ie  of  questions,  of  which  the  very  first  was,  of  what  tribe  were  our  In- 
m  companions  who  were  coming  in  the  rear?  They  seemed  disap- 
[inted  to  know  that  they  were  Gheyennes,  for  they  had  fully  anticipated 
frand  dance  around  a  Pawnee  scalp  that  night. 

[The  chief  showed  us  his  village  at  a  grove  on  the  river  six  miles  ahead, 
nd  pointed  out  a  band  of  Buffalo,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Platte  immedi- 
biy  opposite  us,  which  he  said  they  were  going  to  surround.  They  had 
jn  the  band  early  in  the  morning  from  their  village,  and  had  been  making^ 
f  large  circuit  to  avoid  giving  them  the  wind,  when  they  discovered  us. 
a  few  minutes  the  women  came  galloping  up,  astride  on  their  horses. 


n 


I 


if 


[  248  ]  26 

and  naked  from  the  kiiees  down,  and  the  hipi  up.    They  followed  the 
men  to  nfsist  in  cutting  up  nnd  carrying  off  the  meat. 

The  wind  was  blowuig  directly  across  the  river,  nnd  the  chief  requested  I 
IIS  to  halt  where  we  were,  for  n  while,  in  order  to  avoid  raising  the  herd. 
We,  therefore,  unsaddled  our  horses,  and  sot  down  on  the  bank  to  view  the 
scene,  and  our  new  acquaintances  rode  a  few  hundred  ynrdt  lower  dowa 
and  began  crossing  tho  river.    Scores  of  wild  looking  do|^  followed,  look- 
ing  like  troops  of  wolves,  and  having,  in  fact,  but  very  little  of  the  dog  in 
their  composition.    Some  of  them  remained  with  us,  and  1  checked  one 
of  the  men,  whom  I  found  aiming  at  one,  which  he  was  about  to  kill  for 
«  wolf.    The  day  had  become  very  hot.    The  air  was  clear,  with  a  very 
slight  breeze,  and  now,  at  twelve  o'clock,  while  the  barometer  stood  at 
26.920,  the  attached  thermometer  was  at  108°.     Our  Cheyennes  had| 
learned  that  with  the  Arapaho  village,  were  about  twenty  lodges  of  their  own, 
including  their  own  families;  they,  therefore^  immediately  commenced  I 
making  their  toilette.    After  bathing  in  the  river,  they  invested  themselTes 
in  some  handsome  calico  shirts,  which  I  afterward  learned  they  had  stolen  | 
from  my  own  men,  and  spent  some  time  in  arranging  their  hair  and  paint- 
ing  themselves  with  some  vermillion  I  had  given  them.    While  they  were  I 
■engaged  in  this  satisfactory  manner,  one  of  their  half  wild  horses,  to  which  [ 
the  crowd  of  prancing  animals  which  hud  just  passed  had  recalled  the  free- 
dom of  her  existence  among  the  wild  droves  on  the  prairie,  suddenly  doshed  I 
into  the  hills  at  the  top  of  her  speed.    She  was  their  pack  horse,  and  had 
on  her  back  all  the  worldly  wealth  of  our  poor  Cheyennes,  alt  their  occou- 
trements,  and  all  the  little  articles  which  they  had  picked  up  among  us, 
with  some  few  presents  I  had  given  them.    The  loss  which  they  seemed 
to  regret  most  were  their  spears  ond  shields,  and  some  tobacco  which  theyl 
had  received  from  mo.    However,  they  bore  it  all  with  the  philosophy  of| 
an  Indian,  and  laughingly  cuiitiniied  their  toilette.    They  appeared,  how- 
ever, a  little  mortified  at  the  thought  of  returning  to  the  village  in  such  al 
sorry  plight.    **Our  people  will  laugh  at  us,"  said  one  of  them,  "  returningl 
to  the  village  on  foot,  instead  of  driving  back  a  drove  uf  Pawnee  horses."! 
He  demanded  to  know  if  I  loved  my  sorrel  hunter  very  much,  to  which  ll 
replied  he  wns  the  object  of  my  most  intense  affection.    Fur  from  beingi 
able  to  give,  I  was  myself  in  want  of  horses,  and  any  suggestion  of  part-i 
ing  with  the  few  I  hud  valuable,  was  met  with  n  peremptory  refusal.    Inl 
the  meantime  the  slaughter  was  about  to  commence  on  the  other  side.    Sol 
soon  as  they  reached  it,  the  Indians  separated  into  two  bodies.    One  party! 
proceeded  directly  across  the  prairie  toward  the  hills  in  an  extended  line,! 
while  the  other  went  up  the  river,  and  instantly  as  they  had  given  the  windl 
to  tho  herd,  the  chase  commenced.     The  buflfulo  started  for  the  hills,  buti 
were  intercnpted  and  driven  back  toward  the  river,  broken  and  running  inl 
every  direction.     The  clouds  of  dust  soon  covered  the  whole  scene,  preT 
venting  us  from  having  any  but  an  occasional  view.    It  had  a  very  sin-l 
gular  appearance  to  us  at  a  distance,  especially  when  looking  with  the! 
glass.     We  were  too  fur  to  hear  the  report  of  the  guns,  or  any  sound,  and! 
at  every  instant,  through  the  clouds  of  dust  which  the  sun  maile  luminous! 
we  could  see  for  a  moment  two  or  three  buffalo  dashing  along,  and  closfl 
behind  them  an  Indian  with  his  long  spear,  or  other  weapon,  and  instantlyj 
again  they  disappeared.     The  apparent  silence,  and  the  dimly  seen  figure 
:fluting  by  with  such  rapidity,  gave  it  a  kind  of  dreamy  effect,  and  seeme 
more  like  a  picture  than  a  scene  of  real  life.    Il  had  been  a  large  herd 


ST 


[84»] 


ley  followed  lb« 


rhon  (he  cerru  commenced,  probably,  (liroe  or  four  hundred  in  number ; 

It,  Ihouffh  1  wotched  them  closely,  I  did  not  «eu  one  emerge  from  the 

ktal  cloud  where  the  work  of  destruction  was  going  on.    AAer  remaining 

[ere  about  on  hour,  we  resumed  our  journey  in  the  direction  of  the  village. 

Gradually  as  wo  rode  on,  Indian  after  Indian  came  dropping  along, 

|iden  with  meat ;  and  by  the  time  we  hud  noared  the  lodges,  tne  backwanl 

)Ad  WAS  covered  with  the  returning  horsemen.    It  was  a  pleasant  con- 

(ast  with  the  desert  road  we  hnd  Men  travelling.    Several  had  joined 

)mpany  with  us,  and  one  of  the  chiefs  invitinl  us  to  his  lodge.    The  viN 

kge  consisted  of  about  one  huudrod  and  twenty-five  lodges,  of  which 

irenty  were  Cheyennes;  the  latter  pitched  a  little  apart  fiom  the  Aropa- 

)es.    They  were  disposed  in  a  scattering  manner  on  both  sides  of  a  broad 

[regular  street,  about  one  hundred  and  (ifty  feet  wide,  and  running  along 

16  river.     As  we  rode  along,  1  remarked  near  some  of  the  lodges  a  kind 

tripod  frame,  formed  of  thrf^o  slender  poles  of  birch,  scraped  very  clean, 

which  were  affixed  the  shield  and  spear,  with  some  other  wenpons  of  a 

lief.    All  were  scrupulously  clean,  (he  spear  head  was  burnished  bright, 

d  the  shield  white  and  stainless.    It  reminded  me  of  the  days  of  feudal 

ivalry,  and  when  as  I  rode  by  I  yielded  to  the  passing  impulse,  and 

uchea  one  of  the  spotless  shields  with  the  muzzle  of  my  gun,  I  almotC 

pected  a  grim  warrior  to  start  from  the  lodge  and  resent  my  challenge. 

he  master  of  the  lodge  spread  out  a  robe  for  me  (o  sit  upon,  and  tne 

unws  set  before  us  a  large  wooden  dish  of  buffalo  meat.    He  had  lit  his 

pe  in  the  meanwhile,  and  when  it  had  been  passed  around,  we  com- 

encedour  dinner  while  he  continued  to  smoke.    Gradually  five  or  six 

her  chiefs  came  in  and  took  their  seats  in  silence.     When  we  had  finish- 

,  our  host  asked  a  number  of  questions  relative  to  the  object  of  our  jour- 

y,  of  which  I  made  no  concealment ;  telling  him  simply  that  I  had  made 

visit  to  see  the  country,  preparatory  to  the  establishment  of  military  posts 

i  the  way  to  the  mountains.    Although  this  was  information  of  the  high- 

t  interest  to  them,  and  by  no  means  calculated  to  please  them,  it  excited 

expression  of  surprise,  and  in  no  way  altered  the  grave  courtesy  of  their 

meaner.    The  others  listened  and  smoked.    I  remarked,  that  in  taking 

e  pipe  for  the  first  time,  each  had  turned  the  stem  upward,  with  a  rapid 

ance,  as  in  offering  to  the  Great  Spirit,  before  he  put  it  in  his  mouth.    A 

|orm  had  been  slathering  for  the  past  hour,  and  some  pattering  drops  on 

e  lodge  warned  us  that  we  had  some  miles  to  our  camp.    Some  Indian 

id  given  Maxwell  a  bundle  of  dried  meat,  which  was  very  acceptable,  as 

e  had  nothing,  and  sprin«;in^  upon  our  horses,  we  rude  on  ai  dusk  in  the 

ce  of  a  cold  shower  ond  driving  wind.     We  found  our  companions  under 

me  densely  foliaged  old  trees,  about  three  miles  up  the  river.     Under  one 

them  lay  the  trunk  of  a  largo  cotionwood,  to  leeward  of  which  the  men 

d  kindled  a  fire,  and  we  sat  here  and  roasted  our  meat  in  tolerable  shel- 

r.    Nearly  opposite  was  the  mouth  of  one  of  the  most  considerable  afflu- 

is  of  the  South  fork,  la  Fourche  aux  Caatora  (Beaver  fork),  heading  off 

the  ridge  to  the  southeast. 

July  9. — This  morning  we  caught  the  first  faint  glimpse  of  the  Rocky 
ouniains,  about  sixty  miles  distant.  Though  a  tolerably  bright  day, 
ere  was  a  slight  mist,  and  we  were  just  able  to  discern  the  snowy  summit 
"Long's  peak,"  (" /c."»  f/cMx  or«»7/cs"  of  the  Canadians,)  showing  like  a 
all  cloud  near  the  horizon.  I  found  it  easily  distinguishable,  there  being 
perceptible  difiference  in  its  appearance  from  the  white  clouds  that  were 


[■ 


[848]  88 

iottfnf  tboui  th«  tkf.    1  wai  pl«ued  to  And  that  among  the  trachn 
▼oyag«on  the  naine  of'* lx>ng'i  peak"  had  been  adopted  and  become  famij 
liar  in  the  country.    In  the  ravinea  near  thia  placo,  n  light  brown  Mndttoe 
made  its  lint  appeorancp.    About  R,  we  diacernod  scvernl  peraona  on  hora 
back  a  mile  or  two  ahead  on  the  ooposiie  aide  of  the  river.    They  turm 
in  lowarda  the  river,  and  m'e  rode  (lown  to  moet  them.    We  found  theiu  i^ 
be  two  white  men,  and  a  mnlotio  named  Jim  Deckwith,  who  had  left 
I^uia  when  a  boy,  and  gone  to  life  with  'he  Crow  Indiana.     He  had 
tingtiiihed  himacif  among  them  by  aonM  nets  of  daring  bravery,  and  hi 
risen  to  the  rank  of  a  chief,  but  hud  now,  for  lome  yeari,  left  them.    Thi 
were  in  search  of  a  band  of  horses  that  had  gonn  off  from  a  camp  aoi 
miles  above,  in  charge  of  Mr.  I.'liahonard.    Two  of  them  continued  dowij 
the  river,  in  aearch  of  the  horses,  and  the  Americun  turned  back  with  iiij 
and  we  rode  on  towords  the  camp.    About  right  miles  from  our  sleepii 
place  wo  reached  liijou's  fork,  an  afllueni  of  the  right  bank.     Where  w] 
croflscd  it,  a  short  distance  from  the  Platte,  it  hns  a  sandy  bod  about  fot 
hundred  yards  brond,  the  water  in  various  small  streams,  n  few  iiichc 
deep.    Seven  miles  further  brought  us  to  a  camp  /  son.e  four  or  At 
whites,  New  Englandors,  I  believe,  who  had  acconipMticd  Cnpt.  Wycth 
the  Columbia  river,  and  were  independent  trappers.    All  had  their  squot 
with  them,  and  I  was  really  surprised  at  the  number  of  little  fat  buflulo-fei 
boys,  that  were  tumbling  about  the  camp,  all  apparently  of  the  same 
about  ihrco  or  four  years  old.    They  were  encamped  on  a  rich  bottot 
covered  with  a  profusion  of  Anc  grass,  and  hnd  a  largo  number  of  An 
looking  hones  and  mules.     We  rested  with  them  a  few  minutes,  and  ii 
about  two  miles  arrived  at  Chabonard's  camp,  on  an  island  in  the  Plauj 
On  the  heights  above,  we  mot  the  Arst  S!paiiiard  I  had  seen  in  the  countt 
Mr.  Chobonard  was  in  the  service  of  bo;kit  and  St.  Vrain's  company,  ani 
had  left  their  fort  some  forty  or  flf\y  miles  above,  in  tho  spring,  with  boaj 
laden  with  the  furs  of  the  last  year's  trade.     He  had  met  tho  same  fortur^ 
OS  the  voyogeurs  on  the  Norih  fork,  ond  Anding  it  impottsible  to  procec 
had  taken  up  hid  summei's  residence  on  this  island,  which  he  had  name 
St.  Helena.    The  river  hills  appeared  to  bo  com|)Oscd  entirely  of  snnd,  anf 
the  Platte  hnd  lost  the  muddy  character  of  its  waters,  iind  here  was  tolei 
bly  clear.    From  the  mouth  of  the  South  fork,  I  had  found  it  occnsionalij 
broken  up  by  small  islands,  and  at  tho  time  of  our  journey,  which  was  at[ 
season  ot^  the  year  when  the  waters  were  at  a  favorable  stage,  it  was  n(| 
navigable  fur  anything  drawing  six  inches  water.    The  current  was  vef 
swift — the  bed  of  the  stream  a  coarse  gravel. 

From  the  place  nt  which  we  had  encountered  the  Arapahoes,  the  Platlj 
had  been  tolerably  well  fringed  with  limber,  and  tho  island  here  had  a  Ar 
grove  of  vcrv  large  cottonwoods,  under  who!«e  broad  shade  the  tents  weif 
pitched.    There  was  n  large  drove  of  horses  in  the  opposite  prairie  botton 
smoke  was  rising  from  ihe  scattered  Ares,  and  the  encampment  hnd  quite 
patriarchal  air.     Mr.  C.  received  us  hospitably.     One  of  the  people  was  seij 
to  gather  mint,  with  the  aid  of  which  he  concocted  very  good  julep,  and  som 
boiled  bufliilo  tongue,  and  coATce  with  the  luxury  of  sugar,  were  soon 
before  us.     The  people  in  his  employ  were  generally  Spaniards,  and  amor 
them  I  saw  a  young  Spanish  woman  from  Tuos,  whom  I  found  to  be  Bcclj 
wiih's  wife. 

Juh/  10. — We  parted  with  our  hospitable  host  after  breakfast  the  ne)j 
morning,  and  reached  St.  Train's  fort,  about  forty-five  miles  from  St.  Heleiij 


9t  [248] 

ill)  in  the  evening.     Tliit  poit(  in  litunted  on  ilie  Somli  fork  of  the  Plaitt, 

Wnnliuiely  under  (he  iiiuuulaini,  (iIkxiI  aeviMitoen  ntiln*  AAtt  uf  I Mtng'a  peak. 

li  on  the  right  Iwnk,  on  the  verge  of  (he  upland  nrairie,  about  f^rty  fe#l 

K>ve  the  river,  of  which  the  iininedinia  valley  is  about  lix  hundred  yardt 

fide.     The  itream  i«  diviilnd  into  various  brnnchee  by  ainnll  iajandi,  among 

ihich  it  rum  with  a  swift  current.    The  bed  of  the  river  is  sand  andgravtl, 

|e  wa(or  very  clear,  and  hern  may  h«  called  a  mouDiain  itreain.    Tliia  r«> 

Ion  appears  to  be  eniiruly  free  from  the  limestones  and  marls  whioh  give  to 

)e  lower  Platte  iu  yellow  and  dirty  color.    The  Black  hills  lio  between  the 

roam  and  the  mountains,  whoso  snowy  peaks  iilitter  a  few  miles  beyond. 

|l  (he  fort  we  found  Mr.  tit.  Vrain,  who  received  us  with  much  kindness 

[id  hosnitaliiy.     Maxwell  had  spent  the  last  two  or  three  years  between  \h\* 

•t  anu  (he  village  of  Taos,  and  here  ho  was  r(  home  and  among  his  friends. 

^niards  frequendy  come  over  in  search  of  employment,  and  several  came 

shortly  after  our  arrival.    They  usually  obtain  adou(  six  dollars  a  monthi 

bneraily  paid  to  them  in  goods.     They  are  very  useful  in  a  camp  in  taking 

jtre  of  horses  and  mulos,  and  I  engaged  one  who  proved  to  be  an  active,  !•• 

irious  man,  and  was  of  very  considerable  service  to  me.    I'he  elevation  of 

le  Platte  here  is  5,40<)  feet  ubovn  ihe  sea.    Th^  neighboring  mo(mtainsdid 

appear  to  enter  fur  (ho  region  of  perpetual  snow,  which  was  generally 
^nAned  to  the  northern  side  of  (he  peaks.  On  the  southern  I  remarked  very 
Mie.  Here  it  appeared,  so  far  as  I  could  judge  in  the  distance,  to  descend 
jt  a  few  hundred  feet  beluw  (ho  summits. 

I  regretted  that  (ime  did  no(  permit  me  to  visit  them ;  but  the  proper  ob* 
et  of  my  survey  lay  among  the  mountains  further  north,  and  I  looked  for« 
ud  to  an  exploration  of  their  snowy  recesses  with  great  pleasure.  The 
ine^  region  of  the  mountains  to  the  south  was  e|^veloped  in  smoke,  and  I 

I  mformod  had  been  on  Are  for  several  months.  Pike's  peak  is  said  to  ba 
tible  from  this  place,  about  lOU  miles  to  the  southward,  but  the  smoky 
lie  of  the  atmosphere  prevented  my  seeing  it.  The  weather  continued 
rercast  during  my  stay  hero,  so  that  I  failed  \n  determining  the  latitude,  but 
plained  good  observations  for  time  on  (he  mornin^^  of  the  11  th  and  12th. 

assumed  latitude  of  40°  22^  30"  from  the  evening  position  of  the  12tb, 
kubled  me  to  obtain  for  a  tolerable  correct  longitude  10.5*^  45'  13." 
\July  12. — The  kindness  of  Mr.  St.  Vrain  had  enabled  me  to  obtain  a 
luplo  of  horses  and  three  good  mules,  and  with  a  further  addition  to  our 
Irty  of  the  Spaniard  whom  I  hud  hired,  and  two  others,  who  were  going  to 
[tain  service  ut  Laramie's  fonk,  we  resumed  our  journey  at  10  on  the  morn- 

uf  the  12th.     We  hud  been  able  to  procure  nothing  at  the  post  in  the 

ly  of  provision.    An  expected  supply  from  Taos  had  not  yet  arrived,  and 

fevf  pounds  of  coflfee  wns  all  that  could  be  spared  to  u-i.     In  addition  lo 

I,  we  had  dried  meal  enough  for  the  first  day ;  on  the  next  we  expected 

Ifind  buflfalo.     From  this  post,  according  to  the  estimate  of  the  country, 

fort  at  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  whi<:h  wns  our  next  point  of  destiaa- 
[n,  was  nearly  due  north,  distant  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  milee. 
'For  a  short  distance  our  road  lay  down  the  valley  of  the  Platte  ;  whiek 
Bembled  a 'garden  in  the  splendor  of  fields  of  varied  flowers,  which  filled 

air  with  fragrance.    The  only  timber  I  noticed  consisted  of  poplar,  birch, 

[llonwood,  and  willow.     In  something  leas  than  three  miles,  we  crossed 

lompson's  creek,  one  of  the  affluents  to  the  left  bank  of  the  South  fork,  • 

te  stream  about  sixty-five  feet  wide  and  three  feet  deep.    Journeying  oa, 

le  low  dark  line  of  the  Black  hills  lying  betweeo  ue  and  the  mouataiai  to 


* 


[«48] 


M 


iIm  Itft,  in  abouc  im  milM  tnm  th«  fort,  w<  ranched  QteMt  A  l»  Pout 
wlitra  w«  bolted  lo  nooo.    Thia  i«  a  verv  beaulifUl  iiiouoiain  itrMfn,  at 
on«  buniirtd  feet  wide,  flowing  with  a  mil  ewifl  current  over  a  rocky 
We  balled  under  the  eliade  of  lome  cutlonwooda,  willi  which  ihe  elream 
wooded  ecaiieriugiy.    U  the  upMr  part  of  ill  courae,  it  runs  amid  (he  wild 
eet  mountain  eceuery,  and  breoking  (htough  ilie  Black  llilie  fall*  into  ll 
Plane  about  ten  milee  below  this  place.     In  (he  coune  of  our  late  journey,  I 
had  managed  (o  become  (he  poeeeieor  of  a  very  unirociable  mule,  a  perfe 
vixeu,  and  her  I  had  (umed  over  (o  my  Spaniard.     It  occupied  ue  at 
half  on  hour  (o-day  (o  get  (he  Middle  upon  her ;  but,  once  on  her  bock,  Jc 
eould  not  be  di«moun(ed,  realixinff  (he  accounie  given  of  Mexican  horeee  ai 
konemanehip ;  and  we  con(inue(rour  route  in  (he  aAernoon. 

At  evening  wa  encnmned  un  Crow  ( 7  )  creek,  having  (ravelled  about  iwei 
ty<eiffht  milee.     None  of  (he  porty  were  well  ocquainted  with  (he  counti 
and  1  hod  sreat  difflculiv  in  aecenoining  wlint  were  (he  nnmee  of  (he  strear 
we  crueaed  uetween  (he  Nordi  and  Soudi  dttki  J  (he  Pla((e.    This  I  su| 
poeed  (o  be  Crow  creek.     It  ie  what  it  called  a  aalt  itrearn,  and  (he  wall 
stands  in  pools,  havinv  no  continuous  course.    A  fine  grnined  sands(one  mi 
its  appearance  in  the  banks.    The  ubeervotioni  of  (he  night  ploced  us  in  la 
itude  A(P  \'/l :  longitude  1U3°  33'  27".    The  borometer  a(  sunsrt  was  2S.23l| 
A((ached  (hermunie(er  at  66°.    Sky  clevr,  except  in  the  east,  with  a  ligk 
wind  from  (he  nor(h. 

Jul}/  13. — There  being  no  wood  hero,  wo  used  last  night  the  M» 
vaehCf  which  is  very  plentiflil.    At  uur  camp  (his  morning,  the  barometij 
was  at  25.236,  the  attached  (hermoiutiter  60°,    A  fuw  clouds  wore  movit 
through  a  deep  bine  sky,  with  a  light  wind  from  the  west.    AAcr  a  rido 
twolTtt  miles,  m  a  northefly  direction,  over  n  plain  covered  with  iimumei| 
able  quantities  of  cnc/i,  we  reached  a  small  creek  in  which  there  was  wate 
and  where  several  herds  of  buflolo  were  scattered  about  among  tho  rnvint 
which  always  afford  good  pasturage.     We  seem  now  to  bo  passing  alor 
the  base  of  a  plateau  of  the  Black  hills,  in  which  the  formation  consists  i 
marls,  some  of  them  white  and  laminated,  (he  cutmtry  to  the  left  risir 
suddenly  end  falling  off  gradually  ond  uniformly  (o  (he  right.    In  five 
six  miles  of  a  northeasterly  course,  we  struck  a  high  ridge,  broken  inti 
coni7.ol  peaks,  on  whose  summits  large  boulders  were  gathered  in  hcaf 
The  magnetic  direction  of  the  ridge  is  northwest  and  southeast,  the  glilted 
ing  white  of  its  precipitous  sides  making  it  viBible  for  many  miles  to  tn 
south.     It  is  composed  of  a  soft  earthy  limestone,  ond  marls  resemblinj 
that  hereafter  described,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Chimneys  Rock,  on  tli 
North  fork  of  the  Platte,  easily  worked  by  the  winds  and  roins,  and  sor 
times  moulded  into  very  fastastic  shapes.    At  ihe  foot  of  the  northern  slon 
was  (he  bed  of  a  creek  some  forty  feet  wide,  coming  by  frequent  fnlls  from  tf 
bench  above.    It  was  shut  in  by  high  oerpendiculor  banks,  in  which  werj 
tstrata  of  white  lamino(ed  marl ;  its  bea  was  perfecdy  dry,  and  the  leadir 
feature  of  the  whole  region  is  one  of  remarkable  aridity,  and  perfect  freedoii 
irom  moisture.     In  (ux)ut  six  miles  we  crossed  the  bed  of  onother  dr 
croek ;  and  continuing  our  ride  over  a  high  level  prairie,  a  little  before  sur 
down  we  came  suddenly  upon  a  beautiful  creek,  which  revived  us  witf 
a  feeling  of  delighted  surprise  by  the  pleasant  contract  of  the  deep  verdur 
of  its  banks,  with  the  pnrched  desert  we  had  passed.     We  hna  suffere 
much  to-day,  both  men  and  horses,  for  want  of  water ;  having  met  with  il 


n 


[«4»1 


night  the  Mi 
ng,  the  haromett 
9udi  wore  inovii 
It.    AAcr  a  rido 
cd  with  iiinumei 
li  tliere  was  wati 
moiig  tho  rnvim 
bo  passing  nloi 
nwtion  consists 
to  the  left  risii 
right.    In  five 
:idffe,  broken  inl 
atnered  in  hea[ 
theast,  the  gliitei 
matiy  miles  to  tf 
maris  resembli 
ney  Rock,  on  tl 
rains,  and  sot 
he  northern  sloi 
lent  falls  from  tl 
IS,  in  which  wei 
,  and  tho  leadii 
d  perfect  freedoi 
of  another  di 
little  before  su 
revived  us  will 
the  deep  verdui 
We  had  suffen 
ving  met  with 


bill  one*  in  our  nniattmiplad  roareh  of  forty  mllM  i  and  tn  t leltiaiTo  mMt 
Idifl  orwilM  much  thirst. 

"  ijaa  btiliai  tintfH  mmh«  hambrt,**  said  the  young  Spaniard,  inquir* 
ingly,  **  y  /a  if  nit  tamMM,"  said  I,  **  mnigo**  we'll  camp  hera.  A  strvam 
lot  good  and  olaar  vaivr  ran  winding  about  through  tha  liiija  valley,  and  a 
[hard  of  buirnlo  w^>  e  nuietlv  ffsding  a  little  dislanca  below.  It  was  quite  a 
lunler's  pnrailiae  ;  ana  whilasoma  ran  down  toward  tha  band  to  kill  one  for 
[supper,  oihen  ct>llected  boit  dt  micA«,  for  a  Are,  there  being  no  wood ;  and 
]1  amused  mysolf  with  hunting  for  plants  among  the  grass. 

It  will  be  seen,  by  oooasional  remarks  on  the  geological  formation,  that 
Ithe  constituents  of  the  soil  in  Iheao  rvgions  are  jrood,  nnd  every  day  served 
Ito  strengthen  tho  impression  in  my  mind,  confirmed  by  subsequent  obser* 
Ivation,  tnai  tha  borroii  appearance  of  the  country,  is  due  almost  entirely  to 
Ithe  extreme  dryness  of  the  climate.  Along  our  miito  the  country  nad 
Iseemed  to  increase  constantly  in  elevation.  According  to  the  indication 
jof  the  barometer,  wo  were  at  our  encampment,  5,440  feet  above  the  sea. 

Tho  evening  was  very  clear,  with  a  fresh  breew  from  the  south,  50^  east. 
[The  barometer  at  sunset  was  24.802,  the  ihcrinomeler  ottached  showing 
v.  I  supposed  this  to  be  a  fork  of  liodgt  Pole  creek,  so  for  aa  I  could deter- 
line  from  our  uncertain  means  of  information.  Antrononiical  obaervotions 
kvo  for  the  camp  a  longitude  of  105°  13'  38",  nnd  latitude  41°  OH'  31". 
Jnhf  14/A. — The  wind  continued  fresh  from  tho  same  quarter  in  ihe 
lorning,  the  day  being  clear  with  tho  exception  of  a  few  clouds  in  the 
lorizon.  At  our  camp  at  six  o'clock,  the  height  of  the  barometer  wo* 
M.830,  the  ottoched  thormomcicr  61°.  Our  course  this  morning  wos  di* 
vctly  north,  by  compass,  tho  variation  being  15°  or  16°  easterly.  A  ride- 
>r  four  miles  brought  us  to  Lodge  Polo  creek,  which  we  had  seen  at  its 
muth  on  tho  JSouth  fork  ;  crossing  on  the  way  two  dry  strosms,  in  eighteen 
iiles  from  our  encampment  of  the  past  night  we  reached  a  high  bleak 
^idge,  composed  entirely  of  the  name  onrthylimosiono  and  mnri  previously 
loscribed.  1  hod  never  seen  anything  which  impressed  so  strongly  on  my 
lind  n  feeling  of  desolation.  The  valley  through  which  ran  tho  waters 
>f  Horso  creek,  lay  in  view  to  the  north,  but  too  ?ar  to  have  any  influence 
)Q  the  immediate  view.  On  the  peak  of  the  ridge  whero  I  was  standing, 
>mo  six  or  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  the  wind  wom  high  andf 
>Iesk ;  (be  barren  and  arid  country  seemed  as  if  it  had  been  swept  by  fires, 
tnd  in  every  direction  the  same  dull  ash-colorod  hue,  derived  from  tho 
>rmation,  mot  the  eye.  On  the  summits  were  some  stunted  pines,  mnny 
^f  them  dead,  all  wearing  the  same  nnhen  hue  of  desolation.  We  leA  tho 
^lace  with  pleasure ;  and  after  we  had  descended  several  hundred  feet,  halted 
one  of  the  ravines,  which,  at  the  distance  of  every  mile  or  two,  cut  the 
lanks  of  the  ridge  with  little  rushing  streams,  wearing  something  of  a 
nountain  character.  We  had  already  begun  to  cxcliango  the  compara- 
pvely  barren  lands  for  those  of  a  more  fertile  character.  Though  the  sand- 
>ne  formed  the  broken  banks  of  the  creek ,  yet  they  were  covered  with  a  thin 
I ;  and  the  fifty  or  sixty  feet  which  formed  the  bottom  land  of  the  little 
iream,  was  clothed  with  very  luxuriont  grass,  amon^  which  I  remarked 
rillowand  cherry,  (cerasus  virginiana  ;)  and  a  quantity  of  gooseberry  and 
[urrant  bushes  occupied  the  greater  part. 
The  creek  was  three  or  four  feet  broad  and  about  six  inches  deep,  with  a 
Mfl  current  of  clear  water,  and  tolerably  cool.  Wc  Imd  struck  it  too  low 
lown  to  find  the  cold  water,  which  we  should  have  enjoyed  nearer  to  its 


1248] 


32 


I'  ) 


cources.     At  2,  P.  M.,  Ilie  boronieter  wns  ut  26.050,  ilie  atlnched  thermom*! 

cter  104°.    A  dtiy  of  hot  simshinu,  with  clouds,  and  a  moderate  breeze  frorol 

the  south.     Continuing  down  the  stream,  in  ubout  four  miles  we  reached  itil 

nioulh,  at  one  of  the  main  branches  of  Horse  creek.     Lnokintf  back  upon  I 

the  ridge  whose  direction  oppeared  to  be  a  little  to  the  north  of  enst,  we  sawl 

it  seamed  at  frei|uent  intervals  with  the  dark  lines  of  wooded  streams,  afflu>j 

ents  of  the  river  that  flowed  so  far  as  we  could  see  along  its  base.     Wei 

crossed  in  the  space  of  twelve  miles  from  our  noon  halt  three  or  four  forks  ofl 

Horse  creek,  and  encamped  at  sunset  on  the  most  easterly.  I 

The  fork  on  which  we  encamped  appeared  to  have  followed  an  easterljl 

direction  up  to  this  place,  but  here  it  malces  a  very  sudden  bend  to  the  north,! 

passing  between  two  ranges  of  precipitous  hills  called,  as  I  was  infoimedJ 

Goshen's  hole.  There  is  somewhere  in  or  near  this  locality  a  place  so  called,! 

j)ut  I  am  not  certain  that  it  was  the  place  of  our  encampment.     Looking! 

back  upon  the  spot  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  tu  the  northward,  the  billsl 

appear  to  shut  in  the  prairie,  through  which  runs  the  creek,  with  a  semi*! 

circular  sweep,  which  might  very  naturally  be  called  a  hole  in  the  hills.! 

^he  geological  composition  of  the  ridge  is  (he  same  which  constitutes  th«l 

rock  of  the  Oouri-house  and  Chimney  on  the  North  fork,  which  appeared  to! 

fne  a  continuation  of  this  ridge.    The  winds  and  rains  work  this  formaiioal 

into  a  variety  of  singular  forms.    The  pass  into  Goshen's  hole  is  about  two! 

{niles  wide,  and  the  hill  on  the  western  side  imitates,  in  an  extraordinary! 

manner,  a  massive  fortified  place,  with  a  remaikable  fulness  of  detail.    The! 

rock  is  marl  and  earthy  limestone,  while,  without  the  least  appearance  o([ 

vegetation,  and  much  resembles  masonry  at  a  little  distance*,  and  here  it! 

«weeps  around  a  level  area  two  or  three  hundred  yards  in  diameter,  and  in! 

4he  form  of  a  half  moon,  terminating  on  either  extremity  in  enormous  bas-l 

tions.    Along  the  whole  line  of  the  parapets  appear  domes  and  .slender  min-' 

«irets,  forty  or  fifty  feet  high,  giving  it  every  appearance  of  an  old  fortified 

town.     On  the  waters  of  White  river,  where  this  formation  exists  in  great 

extent,  it  presents  appearances  which  excite  the  admiration  of  the  8oIitary| 

yoyageur,  and  form  a  frequent  theme  of  their  conversation  when  speakini^ 

of  the  wonders  of  the  country.     Sometimes  it  offers  the  perfectly  illusivft 

appearance  of  a  large  city,  with  numerous  streets  and  magnificent  building*, 

among  which  the  Canadians  never  fail  to  see  their  cabiiret ;  and  sometimo 

it  takes  the  form  of  a  solitary  house,  with  many  large  chambers,  into  which 

they  drive  their  horses  at  night,  and  sleep  in  these  natural  defences  perfectly 

secure  from  any  attack  of  prowling  savages.    Before  reaching  our  camp  ail 

Goshen's  hole,  in  crossing  the  innmense  detritus  at  the  foot  of  the  Castltf 

rock,  we  were  involved  amidst  winding  passages  cut  by  the  waters  of  th« 

hill ;  and  where,  with  a  breadth  scarcely  large  enough  for  the  pas.<age  of « 

hoi^e,  the  walls  rise  thirty  and  forty  feet  perpendicularly.     This  formationi 

supplies  the  discoloration  of  the  Platte.    At  sunset,  the  height  of  the  mercuf 

rial  column  was  25.500,  the  attached  thermometer  80°,  and  wind  moderate] 

from  S.  38°  E.     Clouds  covered  the  sky  with  the  rise  of  the  moon,  but  I 

Succeeded  in  obtaining  the  usual  astronomical  observations,  which  placed 

in  latitude  41°  40'  W\  and  longitude  104°  59  23". 

lubf  15.— At  6  this  morning,  the  barometer  was  at  25.515,  the  thermotn! 
<eter  1f2°,  the  day  was^ne,  with  some  clouds  looking  dark  on  the  south,  withj 
a  fresh  breeze  from  the  same  quarter.  We  found  that  in  our  journey  ocroq 
t^e  country  we  had  kept  too  much  to  the  eastward.  This  morning  accord! 
ingly  we  travelled  by  compass  some  15  or  20°  to  the  w^est  of  north, 


33 


[243 


J 


inched  thermom* 
erale  breeze  froral 
les  we  reached  iU 
)okin(;  bock  upon 
h  of  east,  we  sawj 
led  streams,  aiflu- 
)g  ill  base.     Wei 
ee  or  four  forks  of  I 

llowed  an  easterlj 
bend  to  the  north, 
1 1  was  informed, 
a  place  so  called,! 
pment.     Looking! 
>rthward,  the  hills| 
eek,  with  a  8eini< 
hole  in  the  hills.! 
ch  constitutes  the| 
K'hich  appeared  to 
ork  this  formaiioB| 
hole  is  about  twc 
I  an  extraordinary! 
ss  of  detail.     The! 
;ast  appearance  o( 
nee;  and  here  i(| 
k  diameter,  and  i( 
I  ia  enormous 
I  and  slender  min- 
f  an  old  fortified! 
)n  exists  in  grei 
on  of  tlie  soliiaryl 
n  when  speakii 
perfectly  illusive 
nificent  buildioga 
and  sometimt 
nbers,  into  whici 
defences  perfectl] 
hing  our  camp  ai| 
bot  of  the  Castit 
the  waters  of  tht 
the  passage  of 
This  format  ionl 
ght  of  the  mercuj 
id  wind  moderate 
the  moon,  but 
which  placed 

16,  the  thermomj 
m  the  south,  witif 
>ur  journey  acr 
morning  accordj 
est  of  north, 


struck  the  Platte  some  thirteen  mitea  below  Fort  Laramie.  The  day  was 
Extremely  hot,  and  among  the  hills  the  wind  seemed  to  have  just  iaaued  froui 
4UI  oven.  Our  horses  were  much  distressed,  as  we  had  travelled  hi^rd,  and 
lit  was  with  some  difficulty  that  they  were  all  brought  to  the  Flatte ;  which 
|we  reached  at  1  o'clock.  In  riding  in  towards  the  river,  we  found  the  trail 
)f  our  carls,  which  appeared  to  have  passed  a  day  or  two  since. 

After  having  allowed  our  animals  two  hours  for  food  and  repose,  we  re* 
nimed  our  journey,  and  towards  the  close  of  the  day  came  in  sight  of  Lara* 
Iniie's  fork.     Issuing  from  the  river  hills,  we  came  first  in  view  of  Fort  Pluile, 
la  post  belonging  to  Messrs.  Sybiile,  Adams  &>  Co.,  situated  immediately  in 
■he  point  of  land  at  the  junction  of  Laramie  with  the  Platte.     Like  the  post 
|we  nad  visited  on  the  South  fork,  it  was  built  of  earth,  and  still  unfinished, 
)uing  enclosed  with  walls,  or  rather  houses,  on  three  of  the  sides,  and  open 
)u  the  fourth  to  the  river.     A  few  hundred  yards  brought  us  in  view  of  the 
}8t  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  called  Fort  John  or  Laramie.     TDis 
iras  a  large  post,  having  more  the  air  of  military  construction  than  the  furl 
U  the  mouth  of  the  river.     It  is  on  the  left  bank,  on  a  rising  ground  some 
|twenty-five  feet  above  the  water  *,  and  its  lofty  walls,  whitewashed  and  pick- 
eted, with  the  large  bastions  at  the  angles,  gave  it  quite  an  imposing  appear- 
|imce  in  the  uncertain  light  of  evening.     A  cluster  of  lodges,  which  the  lan- 
guage told  us  belonged  to  Sioux  Indians,  was  pitched  Jnder  the  walls,  and, 
[with  the  fine  background  of  the  Black  Hills  and  the  prominent  peak  of  Lara- 
mie mountain,  strongly  drawn  in  the  clear  light  of  the  western  sky,  where 
(he  sun  had  already  set,  the  whole  formed  at  the  moment  a  strikingly  beau- 
tiful picture.    From  the  company  at  St.  Louis  I  had  letters  for  Mr.  Boudenu, 
the  gentleman  in  charge  of  the  post,  by  whom  I  was  received  with  great  hos- 
)itality  and  an  efficient  kindness,  wliich  was  invaluable  to  me  during  my  stay 
in  the  country.     I  found  our  people  encamped  on  the  bank  a  short  distance 
ibove  the  fort.    All  were  well,  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  bountiful  supper, 
rhich  coffee  and  bread  made  luxurious  to  us,  we  soon  forgot  the  fatigues  of 
the  lost  ten  days. 

July  16. — I  found  that,  during  my  absence,  the  situation  of  affairs  had 
undergone  some  change ;  and  the  usual  quiet  and  somewhat  monotonous 
regularity  of  the  camp  had  given  place  to  excitement  and  alarm.  The  cir- 
cumstances which  occasioned  this  change  will,  be  found  narrated  in  the  fol- 
lowing extract  from  the  journal  of  Mr.  Preuss,  which  commences  with  the 
lay  of  our  separation  on  the  South  fork  of  the  Platte. 

Extract  from  the  Journal  of  Mr.  Preuss. 

^^July  6. — We  crossed  the  plateau  or  highland  between  the  two  forks  in 
sibout  six  hours.  I  let  my  horse  go  as  slow  as  he  liked,  to  indemnify  us  both 
iTor  the  previous  hardship*,  and  about  noon  we  reached  the  North  fork, 
rrhere  was  no  sign  that  our  party  had  passed ;  we  rode,  therefore,  to  some 
line  trees,  unsaddled  the  horses,  and  stretched  our  limbs  on  the  grass,  await- 
ing the  arrival  of  our  sompany.  After  remaining  here  two  hours,  my  com- 
panion became  impatient,  mounted  his  horse  again,  and  rode  off  down  the 
river  to  see  if  he  could  discover  our  people.     I  felt  so  marode  yet,  that  it  was 

horrible  idea  to  me  to  bestride  that  saddle  again,  sol  lay  still.  I  knew  they 
:ould  not  come  any  other  way,  and  then  my  companion,  one  of  the  best  men 
A  ihe  company,  would  uoi  uljandoa  me.  The  sua  went  down  j  he  didooi 
3 


^i  ' 


[248] 


34 


come  i  unea»y  I  did  not  feel,  but  very  hungry ;  I  had  no  proviaionv,  but  I 
coutd  make  a  fire ;  and,  as  1  espied  two  doves  in  a  tree,  I  tried  (o  kiil  one ', 
but  it  needs  n  better  marksman  tnan  myself  to  kill  a  little  bird  with  a  rifle. 
I  made  a  large  fire,  however,  lighted  my  pipe-^this  true  fHend  of  mine  in  every 
emergency — laid  down,  and  let  my  thoughts  wander  to  the  far  East.  It 
Was  not  many  minutes  aAer  when  I  heard  the  tramp  of  a  horse,  and  my 
faiihAil  compai^ion  was  by  my  side.  He  had  found  the  party,  who  had  been 
delayed  by  making  their  caefu^  about  seven  miles  below.  To  the  good  sup- 
per which  he  brought  with  him  I  did  amfde  justice.  He  had  foi]goiten  salt; 
and  1  tried  (he  soldier's  ifeubstitute  in  time  of  war,  and  used  gunpowder ;  but 
it  answered  badly — bitter  enough,  but  no  flavor  of  kitchen  salt.  I  slept  well ; 
and  wns  only  disturbed  by  two  owls,  which  were  attracted  by  the  fire,  and 
took  their  place  in  the  tree  under  which  we  sleot.  Their  music  seemed  a» 
disagreeable  to  my  companion  as  to  myself ;  he  fired  his  rifle  twice,  and 
then  I  hey  let  us  alone. 

July  7. — At  about  10  o'clock,  the  party  arrived  ;  and  we  continued  our 
journey  through  a  country  which  offered  but  little  to  interest  the  traveller. 
The  soil  wns  much  more  sandy  than  in  the  valley  below  the  confluence  of 
the  forks,  and  the  face  of  the  country  no  longer  presented  the  refreshing 
green  which  had  hitherto  characterized  it.  The  ricn  grass  was  now  found 
only  in  dispersed  spots,  on  low  grounds,  and  on  the  bottom  land  of  the 
streams.  Along  drought,  joined  to  exireme  heat,  had  so  parched  up  the 
upper  prairies,  that  they  were  in  many  places  bold,  or  covered  only  with  a 
thin  growth  of  yellow  and' poor  grass.  The  nature  of  the  soil  renders  it  ex- 
tremely susceptible  to  the  vicissitudes  of  the  climate.  Between  the  forks, 
6nd  from  their  junction  to  the  Black  Hills,  the  formation  consists  of  marl  and 
a  soft  earthy  limestone,  with  granitic  sandstone.    Such  a  formation  can  not 

Elve  rise  to  a  sterile  soil ;  and  on  our  return  in  September,  when  the  country 
ad  been  watered  by  frequent  rains,  the  valley  of  the  Platte  looked  like  a 
garden  ;  so  rich  was  the  verdur'^  of  the  grasses,  and  so  luxuriant  the  bloom 
Of  abundant  flowers.  The  wild  sage  begins  to  make  its  appearance,  and 
timber  is  so  scarce  that  we  generally  made  our  fires  of  the  bois  de  vache. 
With  the  exception  of  now  and  then  an  isolated  tree  or  two,  standing  like  a 
lighthouse  on  the  river  bank,  there  is  none  whatever  to  be  seen. 

July  8. — Our  road  to-day  was  a  solitary  one.  No  game  made  its  appearance, 
not  even  a  buffalo  or  a  stray  antelope ;  and  nothing  occurred  to  break  the 
monotony  until  about  5  o'clock,  when  the  caravan  made  a  sudden  halt. 
There  was  a  galloping  in  of  scouts  and  horsemen  from  every  side — a  hur- 
rying to  and  fro  in  noisy  confusion ;  rifles  were  taken  from  their  cover ;  bul- 
let pouches  examined :  in  short,  there  was  the  cry  of  "  Indians"  heard  again. 
I  had  become  so  much  accustomed  to  these  alarms,  that  now  they  made  but 
little  impression  on  me ;  and,  before  I  had  time  to  become  excited,  the  new 
comers  were  ascertained  to  be  whites.  It  was  a  large  party  of  traders  and 
trappers,  conducted  by  Mr.  Bridger,  a  man  well  known  in  the  history  of  the 
country.  As  the  sun  was  low,  and  there  was  a  fine  gross  patch  not  far  ahead, 
they  turned  back  and  encamped  for  the  night  with  us.  Mr.  Bridger  was  in 
vited  to  supper ;  and,  after  the  tabh-doth  was  removed,  we  listened  with  eager 
interest  to  an  account  of  their  adventures.  What  they  had  met,  we  would 
be  likely  to  encounter ;  the  chances  whieh  had  befallen  them  would  probably 
^lappen  to  us ;  and  weiooked  upon  their  life  as  a  picture  of  our  own.  He 
informed  us  that  the  condition  of  the  country  had  become  exceedingly  dan- 
gerous.   The  Sioux,  Nvho  bad  been  badly  disposed,  had  broken  out  intol 


provisioni,  but  I 
tried  10  kHl  one  ;  | 
bird  wiih  a  rifle. 
I  of  mine  in  every  I 
the  far  East.     It| 
I  horae,  and  my 
ty,  who  had  been 
To  the  good  8up- 
ad  forgotten  salt; 
gunpowder;  but 
lit.   I  depl  well  i 
by  the  Ore,  and  i 
mudic  seemed  aal 
I  rifle  twice,  and 

re  continued  our 
rest  the  traveller.! 
he  confluence  of 
sd  the  refreshing 
I  was  now  found 
torn  land  of  the 
)  parched  up  the 
ered  only  wilh  a  | 
soil  renders  it  ex- 
stween  the  forks,! 
msisis  of  marl  and  I 
formation  can  not! 
^hen  the  country! 
tte  looked  like  a  I 
uriant  the  bloom  f 
appearance,  and 
le  bois  de  vacheA 
>,  standing  like  a| 
seen. 

de  its  appearance, 
red  to  break  the  I 
a  sudden  halt.! 
r&ey  side — a  hur-j 
their  cover;  bul-l 
Eins"  heard  again.! 
w  they  made  but! 
excited,  the  new! 

K"^    of  traders  and  I 
e  history  of  the! 
ch  not  far  ahead,! 

Bridger  wasin-l 
lened  with  eager 

met,  we  would! 

would  probablyj 

our  own.     He| 
xceedingly  dan- 
broken  out  into! 


— =11= 

■ 

J^4 

W-< 

• 

^^^^^^^^Hk^-^-, 

'^HHH^^aM'MKl 

"'''^HHKJ^^ 

Sk 

^^^m    ^ 

j^liJ*-^5^- 

%         ■ 

;i 

y^  '^^B  ^nl^^Bhf 

iL- ^JiBHb^^^^ 

iMppT^^^p 

• 

I^Paw 

« 

.^^P 

^^v  ^1^  ^^  .Mim^^ 

^^^^^^^B^  ^ 

^^^HP^-v ''  .v^ 

' 

^^^H^    ~   ,  ^/ ' I'ti.^'^ 

^^             ^^^E%:^wSii^^jLi«A?ArV  * 

■  ^^SL^ 

^^Bs^r''" 

^^^^1^1/^^, 

^^^^^^%^ ''' 

wipC 

:             t^.;-:'*        . 

8«  [248] 

open  hostility,  and  in  the  preceding  autumn,  his  party  had  encountered  them 

in  a  severe  enffugemenl,  in  which  n  number  of  hvea  had  been  lost  on  both 
•ides.  United  with  the  Cheyenne  and  Gros  Ventre  Indians,  they  were 
•couring  the  upper  country  in  war  parties  of  great  force,  and  were  at  this 

lime  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Red  Buttcs,  a  famous  landmark,  which  was 
directly  on  our  path.  They  had  declared  war  upon  every  living  tiling  which 
aliouldbe  found  westward  of  that  point ;  though  their  main  object  was  to  at- 
tack a  large  camp  of  whites  ond  Snake  Indians,  who  had  a  rendezvous  in 
Che  Sweet  Water  valley.  Availing  himself  of  his  intimate  knowledge  of  the 
country,  he  had  reached  Laramie  by  an  unusual  route  through  the  Black 
Hills,  and  avoided  coming  into  contact  with  any  of  the  scattered  parties. 
This  gentleman  oflfered  his  services  to  accompany  us  so  far  as  the  head  of 
the  Sweet  Water  i  but  the  absence  of  our  leader,  which  was  deeply  regret- 
ted by  us  all,  rendered  it  impossible  for  us  to  enter  upon  such  arrangement. 
In  a  camp  consisting  of  men  whose  lives  had  been  spent  in  this  country,  I 
expected  to  find  every  one  prepared  for  occurrences  of  this  nature;  but,  to 
my  great  surprise,  1  found,  on  the  contrary,  that  this  news  had  thrown  them 
all  into  the  greatest  consternation,  and  on  every  side  I  heard  only  one  excla- 
mation, *'  //  n'y  aura  pas  de  vie  pour  nous"  All  the  night  scattered  groups 
were  assembled  oround  the  fires,  smoking  their  pipes,  and  listening  with  the 
greatest  eagerness  to  exaggerated  details  of  Indian  hostilities ;  an  1  in  the 
morning  I  found  the  camp  dispirited,  and  agitated  by  a  variety  of  confiicting 
opinions.  A  majority  of  the  oeople  were  strongly  disposed  to  return  *,  but 
Clement  Lambert,  with  some  five  or  six  others,  professed  their  determination 
to  follow  Mr.  Fremont  to  the  uttermost  limit  of  his  journey.  The  others 
yielded  to  their  remonstrances ;  and,  somewhat  ashamed  of  their  cowardice, 
concluded  to  advance  ut  least  so  far  as  Laramie  fork,  eastward  of  which  they 
were  aware  no  danger  was  to  be  apprehended.  Notwithstanding  the  confu- 
sion and  excitement,  we  were  very  early  on  the  road,  as  the  days  were  ex- 
tremely hot,  and  we  were  anxious  to  profit  by  the  freshness  of  the  morning. 
The  soft  marly  formation,  over  which  we  were  now  journeying  frecuienily 
ofiers  to  the  traveller  views  of  remarkable  and  picturesque  beauty.  To  sev- 
eral of  these  localities  where  the  winds  and  the  rain  have  worked  the  bluffs 
into  curious  shapes, the  voyageurs  have  given  names  according  to  some  fancied 
resemblance.  One  of  these,  called  the  Courthouse,  vfe  passed  about  six 
miles  from  our  encampmeni  of  last  night,  and  toward  noon  came  in  sight  of 
the  celebrated  Chimney  Rock.  It  looks,  at  this  distance  of  about  thirty 
miles,  like  what  it  is  called,  the  long  chimney  of  a  steam-factory  establish- 
ment, or  a  shot-tower  in  Baltimore.  Nothing  occurred  to  interrupt  the  quiet 
of  the  day ;  and  we  encamped  on  the  river,  after  a  march  of  twenty-four 
miles.  Buflalo  had  become  very  scarce,  and  but  one  cow  had  been  killed, 
of  which  the  meat  had  been  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  hutig  around  the 
carts  to  dry. 

July  10. — We  continued  along  the  same  fine,  plainly  beaten  road,  which  the 
amooth  surface  of  the  country  afibrded  us  for  a  distance  of  six  hundred  and 
thirty  miles,  from  the  frontiers  of  Missouri  to  the  Laramie  fork.  In  the 
•ourse  of  the  day  we  met  some  whites,  who  were  following  along  in  the 
train  of  Mr.  Bridger ;  and, after  a  day's  journey  of  twenty-four  miles,  encamped 
about  sunset  at  the  Chimney  Rock,  of  which  the  annexed  drawing  will 
render  any  discription  unnecessary.  It  consists  of  marl  and  earthy  limestone, 
and  the  weather  is  rapidly  diminishing  its  height;  which  is  now  not  more 


11 


[243] 


36 


than  two  hundnd  feet  above  »hc  river.     Trnvellcrs  who  vUiicd iHome  yean 
since  placed  in  licighi  nl  upwards  of  five  hundred  feet. 

J\u\f  1 1. — The  valley  of  the  Nor(h  fork  is  of  n  variable  brendih,  from  one 
to  four  and  aometlniea  six  miles.  Fifteen  miles  from  (he  (vbiinney  Rqck  we 
reached  one  of  (huso  places  where  (ho  river  strikes  (he  biufTs  and  forces  (he 
rood  (o  make  a  considerable  circuit  over  (he  uplands.  This  presen(ed  an 
cscarmnen(  nn  (he  river  of  abou(  nine  hundred  yards  in  length,  and  ii  fomili- 
uriv  Known  as  Sco(('s  blufTs.  We  had  macle  a  journey  of  (hir(y  mile* 
before  we  again  siruck  ihe  river,  a(  a  place  where  some  scanty  griisB  aflbrded 
nn  insufficient  pasturage  (o  our  animals.  About  twenty  miles  from  the 
Chimney  Rock,  we  had  found  a  very  beautiful  spring  of  excellent  and  cold 
water,  but  it  was  in  such  a  deep  ravine,  and  so  small,  that  (he  animals  could 
not  profl(  by  i(,  and  we,  (hcrciore,  halted  only  a  few  minutes,  and  found  i 
resting  place  len  miles  further  on.  The  plain  between  Scott's  bluffs  and 
Chimney  Rock  was  almost  entirely  covered  with  drift  wood,  consisting  prin- 
ciiNilly  of  cedar,  which,  we  were  informed,  had  been  supplied  from  the 
i'lnck  Hills,  in  a  flood  five  or  six  years  since. 

Jxdy  12. — Nine  njiies  from  our  encampment  of  yesterday  we  crossed 
Horse  creek,  a  shallow  streani  of  clear  water  about  seventy  vards  wide,  fall- 
ing into  the  Platte  on  the  right  bunk.  It  Was  lightly  timnercd,  and  great 
quontities  c "  driA  wood  were  piled  up  on  the  banks,  appearing  to  be  sup- 
plied by  (he  creek  from  above.  After  n  journey  of  twenty-six  miles,  we  encamp- 
cd  on  a  rich  bottom,  which  aflbrded  fine  gross  to  our  animals.  Buffalo  hove 
entirely  disappeared,  and  we  live  now  upon  the  dried  meat,  which  .  exceed- 
ingly poor  food.  The  mnrl  and  ear(hy  limestone  which  constituted  the 
formation  for  several  days  post,  had  changed  during  the  day  into  a  compact 
white,  or  groyish  white  limestone,  sometimes  containing  hornstone  ;  and  at 
the  place  of  our  encamumen(  (his  evening  some  B(rata  in  the  river  hills 
cropped  out  to  the  height  of  thirty  or  fortv  feet,  consisting  6f  a  fine-grained 
granitic  sandstone  *,  one  of  the  strata  closely  resembling  gneiss. 

July  13. — To-day  about  four  o'clock  we  reached  Port  Laramie,  where  we 
were  cordially  received ;  we  pitched  our  camp  a  little  above  the  fort,  on  the 
bunk  of  Laramie  rivei,  in  wnich  the  pure  and  clear  water  of  the  mountaim 
stream  looked  refreshingly  cool,  and  made  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  muddy, 
yiillow  waters  of  the  Plutte." 

I  walked  up  to  visi(  our  friends  at  (he  fort,  which  is  a  quadrangular  struc- 
ture, built  of  clay,  after  (he  fashion  of  the  Mexicans,  who  ore  generally  em- 
ployed in  building  (hem.  The  walls  are  abou(  fifteen  fee(  high,  surmounted 
with  a  wooden  palisade,  and  form  a  portion  of  ranges  of  houses,  which  em- 
tircly  surround  a  yard  of  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  square.  Every 
apartment  has  its  door  and  window,  all,  of  course,  opening  on  the  inside. 
'I'here  are  two  entrances  opposite  each  o(her  and  midway  (he  wall,  one 
of  which  is  a  large  and  public  en(rnnce,  the  other  smaller  and  more  private : 
a  sort  of  postern  gate.  Over  the  great  entrance  is  a  square  tower,  with  loop- 
holes ;  and,  like  the  rest  of  the  work,  built  of  earth.  At  (wo  of  (he  angles, 
and  diogonaliy  opposite  each  other,  ore  large  square  bastions,  so  arranged  aa 
to  sweep  the  four  faces  of  the  walls. 

This  post  belongs  to  the  American  Fur  Company,  and,  at  (he  time  of  oor 
visit,  was  in  charge  of  Mr.  Boudeau.  Two  of  (he  company's  clerks,  Messrs. 
Gaipin  and  Kellogg,  were  with  him,  and  he  had  in  the  fort  about  sixteen 
men.    As  usual,  these  had  found  wives  amoag  the  Indian  squaws  \  and,  witk 


:d  il  •ome  yean 

ndih,  from  one 
mney  Rpck  we 
and  forcef  the 
s  presented  an 
),and  iifamili- 
of  thirty  tnilec 
y  amen  afforded 
nites  from  the 
client  and  cold 
;  animals  could 
8,  and  found  t 
ott'e  blufls  and 
consisting  prin- 
plied  frum  the 

Iny  wo  crossed 
ards  wide,  falt- 
ered, and  great 
ring  to  be  aup- 
lo9,  we  encamp- 
Buffalo  have 
rhich  .  cxteed- 
constitnted  the 

into  a  compact 
isiono ;  and  at 

the  river  hille 
a  finegrained 

mie,  where  we 
|the  fort,  on  the 
f  the  mountais 

to  the  mtiddy, 


I! 


Irangular  struc- 

gencrally  em- 

bh,  surmounted 

iises,  which  ea- 

pquiire.    Every 

on  the  inside. 

the  wall,  one 

more  private : 

^vcr,  with  loop- 

of  the  angles, 

so  arranged  at 

[he  time  of  cor 

I  clerks,  Meesis. 

about  sixteen 

\ws ;  and,  witl^ 


iii 


(  t  1    '!  1 


«7 


[243] 


,V 


\r 


the  uiual  accompaniment  of  children,  the  place  hud  quite  a  populous  np* 
pearance.  It  ia  hardly  nece«ary  to  soy,  that  the  object  of  the  eatablishmffiit 
le  trade  with  ihe  nei(fhborin2  tribee,  who,  in  the  cuiirte  of  the  year,  generallv 
moke  two  or  throe  vmita  to  the  fort.  In  addition  to  this,  traders  with  asmntl 
outdt  are  cnnMtnntly  kept  among  theni.  The  ariicica  of  trade  consist  on  the 
one  side  ulmoHt  oiiiircly  uf  buffulo  robtts,  and  on  the  other,  of  blankets,  cali* 
eoes,  guns,  powder,  and  lead,  with  such  cheap  ornumenis  as  glass  bendi«, 
looking  glasses,  riri^s,  vcrniillion  for  |)ainting,  tobacco,  and  principally,  and 
in  snite  of  the  prohibition,  uf  spirits,  brought  into  the  country  in  the  form  of 
alconol,  and  diluted  with  water  before  sold.  While  mentioning  this  fact,  it 
ia  but  justice  to  the  American  Fur  Company  to  Htute,  that  throughout  iho 
ooimiry,  1  have  always  found  them  strenuously  opposed  (o  the  introduction 
of  spirituous  liquors.  But  in  the  present  slate  of  things,  when  iho  country 
is  supplied  wiih  ulcohul,  when  a  Ice^  of  it  will  purchase  from  an  Indian 
every  thing  he  possesses — his  furs,  his  lodge,  his  horses,  and  even  his  wifo 
and  children — and  when  any  vasabond  who  has  money  enough  to  purclmsn 
a  mule  can  go  into  a  village  and  tmde  ogainst  them  siiccesAfully — without 
withdrawing  ei  tirely  from  the  trade,  it  is  iinpossiltle  for  them  to  disconlinuo 
its  use.  In  their  opposition  to  this  practice,  the  company  is  sustained,  not 
only  by  their  obligation  to  the  laws  of  the  country  and  the  welfare  of  ihn 
Indians,  but  clearly,  also,  on  grounds  of  policy ;  for,  with  heavy  and  expen- 
sive outfits,  they  contend  at  manifestly  great  disadvantage  against  the  nume- 
rous independent  and  unlicensed  traders,  who  enter  the  country  from  various 
avenues,  from  the  United  States  and  from  Mexico,  having  no  other  slock  in 
trade  than  some  kegs  of  liquor,  which  they  sell  at  the  modest  price  of  thirty- 
air  dollars  per  gallon.  The  diflference  between  the  regular  trader  and  the 
ooureurs  dea  boiSy  as  the  French  call  the  itinerant  or  peddling  traders,  with 
respect  to  the  sale  of  spirits,  is  here  as  it  always  has  been,  fixed  and  perma- 
nent, and  growing  out  of  the  nature  of  their  trade.  The  regular  trader  look^ 
ahead,  and  has  an  interest  in  the  preservation  of  the  Indians,  and  in  the  reg- 
ular pursuit  of  their  business,  and  their  preservation  of  their  arms,  horses, 
and  everything  necessary  to  their  future  and  permanent  success  in  hunting: 
the  coureur  dea  boia  has  no  permanent  interest,  and  gels  what  he  can,  and 
for  what  ho  can,  from  every  Indian  he  meet.s,  even  at  the  risk  of  disabling 
him  from  doing  anything  more  at  hunting. 

The  fort  had  a  very  cool  and  clean  appearance.  The  greot  entrance,  in 
which  I  found  the  gentlemen  assembled,  nnd  which  was  floored,  and  obout 
fiAcen  feet  long,  made  a  pleasant,  shaded  seal,  through  which  ihe  brcezo 
swept  constantly  ;  for  this  country  is  famous  for  high  winds.  In  the  course 
of  conversation,  I  learned  the  following  particulars,  which  will  explain  tho 
condition  of  the  country.  For  several  years  the  Cheycnnes  and  Sioux  had 
gradually  become  more  and  more  hostile  to  the  whites,  and  in  the  latter  part 
of  August,  IS41,  had  had  n  rather  severe  engagement  with  a  party  of  sixty 
men  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Frapp,  of  St.  Louis.  The  Indians  lost  eight 
or  ten  warriors,  and  the  whites  had  their  leader  and  four  men  killed.  This 
fight  took  place  on  the  waters  of  Snake  river ;  and  it  was  this  party,  on  their 
return  under  Mr.  Bridger,  which  had  spread  so  much  alarm  among  my  peo- 
ple. In  the  course  of  the  spring,  two  other  small  parlies  had  been  cut  ofl' 
by  the  Sioux;  one  on  their  return  from  the  Crow  nation,  and  the  other 
among  the  Black  Hills.  The  emigrants  to  Oregon  and  Mr.  Bridger's  party 
met  here,  a  few  days  before  our  arrival.  Division  and  misunderstandings 
had  grown  up  among  them  ;  they  were  already  somewluU  disliearleiied  by 
the  fatigue  of  their  long  and  wearisome  journey,  and  the  feet  of  their  callle 


<  \ 


\'i 


[  243  ]  » 

hnci  brronx!  ro  nitirli  worn  t\n  In  bn  fcnrrely  Mo  lo  Iravnl.  In  ilii't  •iiUA- 
lidii,  tliity  wrro  not  likrly  to  (hid  <>n(-oiiriu(riiii*nt  in  lU«  \uM\\n  altiiiHin  of 
tho  Iiidiaim,  »nd  the  new  nnd  unexpected  (ritncultic<i  wlii(  h  aprant^  up  Ix^fora 
iluun.  They  were  lold  ihnt  the  coiiniry  wna  eniirelv  awept  of  ((inMi,  nnd 
ihnt  fvw  ur  no  biiflolo  were  lo  bo  found  on  ihi'ir  line  of  route -,  nnd  with  ihrir 
wiMikencd  aninuda,  it  wouUI  bo  inipoaaible  for  them  lo  Iraninort  iheir  hrnvf 
wofi;ona  o«  rr  (he  mounlnin.  IJntler  ihero  circuniainncen,  tliey  diDUoitrd  of 
ihcir  wniroiiH  and  caiile  nt  ihe  foria;  arWing  ihcni  nt  iho  pricra  llicy  had 
piud  in  liio  Slaica,  nnd  inking  in  rxrhnnge  rofTee  and  augnr  nt  one  dollar  a 
pound,  and  miacrnblo  worn  out  horxfM,  which  dli*d  beforo  ihey  rcnchrd  ihe 
inouiiiairiH.  Mr.  noudrnii  infornird  mo  ihot  ho  had  purcluifcd  ihiriy,  nnd 
iho  lower  fort  eighty  head  of  fine  cattle,  aonin  of  them  of  tht;  Duihnni  breed. 
Mr.  Fiiztuitiick,  whnao  name  and  hiuli  repulnlion  are  fanulinr  lo  nil  who 
intcrcHt  ilicmMivrH  in  the  hialory  of  this  country,  hod  reached  Lnrnniie  In 
company  with  Mr.  Dridger;  and  iho  eniigronta  were  forlunoie  enough  (o 
obtnin  hia  aervicea  lo  guide  thnn  nH  far  aa  the  Drilinh  potit  of  Port  Halt, 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  niiloa  beyond  tho  South  Pnaa  of  the  niountnina. 
They  had  htarlcd  for  thia  poat  on  iho  fourth  of  July,  and  immediately  aAer 
their  depiuiuro,  a  wnr  party  of  ihreo  himdrcd  nnd  fiAy  braves  sal  out  upon 
their  Irail.  Aa  their  prmcipol  chief  or  portiaan  had  lost  tome  relations  in  the 
recent  fight,  and  had  aworu  to  kill  the  firat  whiles  on  his  path,  it  was  lup- 
poacd  that  their  inlention  was  to  ollack  the  porty,  should  n  favorable  onpor- 
lunity  ofl'er;  or,  if  they  were  foiled  in  their  principal  object  by  the  vigilance 
of  Mr.  Filzpntrick,  content  themselves  with  stealing  horses  and  cutting  oflT 
8lrnffglert>.     Thcac  lind  been  gone  but  n  few  days  previous  lo  our  arrival. 

The  effect  of  the  engngrment  with  Mr.  Frapp  hod  been  greatly  lo  irrilnle 
the  hostile  spirit  of  iho  puvnges;  nnd  immediately  subsequent  lo  that  event, 
the  GroH  Ventre  Indians  hud  united  with  the  Oglallahs  nnd  Chcyennes, 
and  taken  the  field  in  great  force,  so  far  as  I  could  oaccriain,  (o  the  amount 
of  eight  hundred  lodgeu.  Their  object  was  to  make  an  attack  on  n  camp  of 
Siiako  and  Crow  Indians,  nnd  n  body  of  about  ono  hundred  whites,  who 
had  mado  n  rcndezvcua  vomewhero  in  the  Green  River  valley,  or  on  the 
Sweet  Woter.  After  spending  eomctimo  in  bi  ffalo  hunting  in  tho  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Medicine  Bow  mounlnin,  ihey  weio  to  cross  over  to  the  Green 
River  waters,  nnd  return  to  Larnmio  by  way  of  tho  South  Pneis  nnd  the 
Sweet  Water  valley.  According  lo  tho  cnlculnlion  of  the  Indians,  Mr.  Bou- 
denii  informed  mc,  they  were  somewhere  near  the  head  of  the  Sweet  Water. 
I  subsequently  learned  thai  tho  party  led  by  Mr.  Filzpntrick  were  overtaken 
by  their  pursuers,  near  Rork  Independence,  in  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Wa- 
ter; but  his  skill  nnd  resolution  saved  them  from  surprise,  and  small  as  his 
force  wns,  they  did  not  venture  lo  attack  him  openly.  Here  they  lost  one 
of  their  party  by  nn  accident,  nnd  continuing  up  the  valley,  they  came  sud- 
denly upon  the  Inrge  villngc.  From  these  they  met  with  a  doubtful  recep- 
tion. Long  residence  and  familiar  acquaintance  had  given  to  Mr.  Fitz- 
patrick  great  pergonal  influence  among  them,  and  n  portion  of  them  were 
disposed  to  let  him  pass  quietly  -,  but  by  far  the  greater  number  were  in- 
clined to  hostile  measures,  and  the  chiefs  spent  the  whole  of  one  night,  during 
which  ihcy  kept  the  little  parly  in  the  midst  of  them,  in  council,  debating 
the  question  of  aUncking  them  the  next  day  ;  but  the  infiuencc  of  ihe 
'•  Broken  Hand,"  as  they  called  Mr.  F'ilzpittrick  (one  of  his  hands  having 
been  shattered  by  the  bursting  of  a  gun),  at  length  prevailed,  nnd  obtained 
for  them  an  unmolesled  passage ;  but  they  sternly  assured  him  thut  this 


30 


[843  1 


III  ihU  liiua- 
liln  iillihiiln  of 
mm  np  Ix'torn 
t  uf  i^itiMit  nnd 
nnil  with  ihfir 
K)rt  llirir  hrnvf 
ify  (liKUOKfcl  of 
iricra  llicy  had 
(It  unn  dollar  a 
Ify  renchpil  lh« 
irrd  iliiriy,  nnd 
Ddilinni  brred. 
ilinr  (o  nil  wl>o 
led  Lnrnniia  In 
iftie  riiuiifih  (o 
L  of  Fori  II oil, 
the  niouninina. 
imedinlely  nfler 
ea  >nt  out  upon 
rclniiona  in  ihe 
nih,  it  was  lup- 
favorable  onpor- 
)y  iho  vigilance 
and  cuUuitf  oflT 
)  onr  arrivol. 
[really  lo  irrilnle 
it  (o  that  event, 
id  Cheycnncs, 
lo  I  he  amount 
;  on  tt  romp  of 
ed  whites,  who 
illey,  or  on  the 
ill  iho  ncigh- 
er  to  the  Green 
PnBS  and  the 
liana,  Mr.  Bou- 
Sweel  Water, 
were  overtaken 
ihe  Sweet  Wa- 
I  small  as  his 
they  lost  one 
hey  cnine  sud- 
lonblfiil  recep- 
to  Mr.  Pitz- 
of  ihcin  were 
mber  were  in- 
|e  night,  during 
noil,  debating 
tluencc  of  the 
hands  having 
and  obtained 
him  that  this 


pnih  WAS  no  longtt  open,  and  that  anv  party  of  whites  which  slinuld  hereafter 
\m  found  upon  it,  would  meet  with  otriaiM  dn«iruction.  Prnm  nil  thnt  I 
have  hern  nble  lu  laorn,  I  huve  no  doubt  that  the  emigrants  owe  their  livM 
to  Mr.  Kiiipntiick. 

Thus  it  would  appear  thai  the  eountry  was  NWarmin||;  with  leatterod 
wnr  parties;  and  when  I  heard  duiiiig  iho  day,  the  various  contradictory 
nnd  exii(p;ernted  rumors  which  were  incossantly  repeated  to  them,  I  was 
not  surprised  that  so  much  alarm  p'evoiled  nmouK  my  men.  Carson,  one  of 
the  be»t  and  most  ekporiumod  mouiiinineurs,  fully  supported  the  opinion 
f^iven  by  Bridfl;er  of  the  dangerous  stnto  of  the  country,  and  openly  ex* 
proved  his  conviction  that  wo  could  not  escnpo  without  some  sharp  en* 
counters  with  the  Indians.  In  addition  to  this,  ho  mmlu  his  will,  nnd 
among  the  circumstances  which  wore  constantly  occurring  to  incrensn  their 
alarm,  this  was  the  most  iiiirorlurnito;  nnd  I  found  that  a  numbei  f  nif 
party  had  Iwcome  so  much  intimidated,  that  they  had  rcnucsted  lo  be  dis* 
chnrjfud  at  this  place.  1  dined  to-dny  at  Fort  PIntte,  which  hns  been  men* 
tinned  ns  situntod  nt  the  junction  of  Laramie  river,  with  the  Nebrai«kn. 
Hero  I  heard  a  confirmaliou  of  the  statumonta  given  above.  The  party  of 
warriors  which  had  started  n  few  days  since  on  the  trail  of  the  omii^ruiits, 
was  ex|Nictod  back  in  fourteen  days,  to  inin  the  village  with  which  their 
families  and  the  old  men  had  romainod.  The  arrival  of  Iho  latter  was 
hourly  expected,  and  some  Indians  have  just  come  in  who  had  left  them  on 
the  Lnramit  fork,  anout  twenty  miles  above.  Mr.  BiNtw>nette,  one  6f  Ihe 
traders  belonging  to  Fort  Plaito,  urged  the  propriety  of  taking  with  me  an 
interpreter  and  two  or  throe  old  ir.enof  the  village,  in  which  case  he  thought 
there  would  be  little  or  no  ha  ..ird  in  encountering  any  of  the  war  parties. 
The  principal  danger  was  in  being  attacked  before  they  should  know  who 
wo  wero. 

They  had  a  confused  idea  of  the  numbers  and  power  of  our  people,  and 
dreaded  to  bring  upon  thcmtielves  the  military  force  of  the  United  States. 
This  gentleman,  who  spoke  the  language  fluently,  offered  his  services  to 
accompany  me  so  far  as  the  Red  Buttes.  He  was  desirous  to  join  the  large 
party  on  its  return,  for  purposes  of  trade,  and  it  would  suit  his  views  as 
well  as  my  own,  to  go  with  us  to  the  Buttos ;  beyond  wiiich  point  it  would 
ho  impossible  to  prevail  on  a  Sioux  to  venture,  on  account  of  their  feur  of 
the  Crows.  From  Fort  Laramio  to  the  Red  Buttes,  by  the  ordinary  road, 
is  one  hundred  and  thirty  five  miles  ;  nnd,  though  only  on  the  threshold  of 
<lnngor,  it  seemed  better  to  secure  the  services  of  an  interpreter  for  the  par- 
tial distance,  than  to  have  none  at  ail. 

So  far  ns  frequent  interruption  from  the  Indians  would  allow,  we  occu- 
pied ourselves  in  making  some  astronomical  calculations,  and  bringing  up 
the  general  map  to  this  stage  of  our  journey,  but  the  tent  was  generally 
occupied  by  n  succession  of  our  ceremonious  visitors.  Some  came  for  pre- 
sents, and  others  for  information  of  our  object  in  coming  to  the  country  ; 
now  and  then  one  would  dart  up  to  the  tent  on  horseback,  jerk  of!  his 
trappin2:s,  and  stand  silently  at  the  door,  holding  his  horse  by  the  halter, 
fiignifying  his  desire  to  trade.  Occasionally  a  savage  would  stalk  in,  with 
an  invitation  to  n  feast  of  honor,  a  dog  feast,  and  deliberately  sit  down  ond 
wail  quietly  until  I  was  ready  to  accompany  him.  I  went  lo  oric  ;  the 
women  and  children  wero  siiiinj;  outside  the  lodge,  and  wo  took  our  seats 
on  bufFulo  robes  spread  around.  The  do?  was  in  a  large  pot  over  the  fire 
in  the  middle  of  the  lodge,  and  immediately  on  our  arrival  was  dished  up 


1 


l^a] 


40 


ill  Inrffo  wnoden  bowtf,  onn  of  whirh  wai  linndcd  fn  etch.    Th«  (l<>»h  np. 
prnrra  very  pliiiinnia,  with  unmriliinir  of  th«  flitTor  and  npnmtHrire  nil 
tiiiiMon.     I'Viiliiig  Honirlhinif  rDovn  txhiiul  nir,  1  lioki'd  round  tind  Imindl 
thRl  1  hnd  inkcn  my  M*ni  nnionir  a  lllier  n(  Int  yniuifr  piippi''*.     Hi  d  I  («en 
mm  in  Miirh  innlitTK,  ihc  prrjiidim  ol*  civilixnljoii  riiiKht  hf«\e  inirifi>rrd| 
with  my  trnn<|iiiliiy ;  txii  fortuiiaiffly,  I  nm  iiul  ol  delicate  n«'rv«i»  and  cuii- 
tinned  quietly  to  mnpty  mv  pintler. 

The  W(!nlher  wna  cloudy  nt  evonlnir,  u-iih  a  nxHlerafa  ntuwh  «ihd,  andj 
Oi«  th«>rtnonM*tpr  nl  A  o'clock  85*^.     I  won  dionpiMiinird  m  my  hope  nt  ob- 
taihinff  nn  olMorvation  of  an  orcullnlion,  which  took  plare  about  iiiidhight. 
The  moon  bronchi  with  her  heovy  tuutkii  of  cloud*,  through  whi^h  >he| 
■carcely  made  hrr  aptM>arauce  duriui;  the  ntffht. 

The  morning  of  the  18th  was  cloudy  nud  calm,  the  thermometer  nt  61 
o'clock  at  tW.  About  9,  with  a  nindernie  wind  from  the  wcit,  n  .Morm  of  I 
rain  came  on,  accompanied  by  nharn  thunder  and  lightuinfr,  which  laftidl 
•bout  an  hour.  During  the  day  tne  rxprctod  village  arrived,  conHiNtingj 
principally  of  old  men,  women,  and  children.  They  had  a  eonnidernble 
number  of  homes,  and  large  iruo^Mi  of  dogH.  Their  lodges  were  pitched 
near  the  fort,  and  our  ramp  was  conNiantly  crowded  with  Indians  of  all 
sixes,  from  morning  until  night;  nt  which  tirno  some  of  the  soldiers  gen- 
erally came  to  drive  them  all  ofT  to  the  village.  My  tent  wns  tho  only 
place  which  they  resf)ected.  Hero  only  rnnio  the  rbiefs  and  men  of  dis* 
tinciion,  and  generally  one  of  them  remained  to  drive  away  the  women 
and  children.  Tho  numerous  strange  in.<*trumont8  applied  to  still  stran- 
ger uses  excited  awe  and  adrnirntion  among  ihem,  and  those  which  1 
used  in  talking  with  tho  sun  and  stars  they  looked  upon  with  especial 
reverenee,  ns  mysterious  things  of  "jrrent  nieilirine."  Of  the  three  bnrome- 
tors  which  1  hnd  brought  with  me  tmi.H  fur  siicrerNfully,  I  found  that  two 
we:»  Jut  of  order,  and  spent  tho  greater  part  of  the  19ih  in  repairing  them, 
an  operation  of  no  small  difticulty  in  tho  midst  of  the  incessant  interrup- 
tions to  which  I  was  subjected.  Wo  had  the  niisfortnno  to  bi-nk  here] 
o  large  thermometer,  graduated  to  show  fifths  of  a  degree,  which  I  used 
to  ascertain  the  temperature  of  boiling  water,  and  with  which  I  hnd  prom- 
ised myself  some  interesting  experiments  in  the  mountainf.  We  hnd  but 
one  remaining  on  which  the  graduniion  extended  sufficiently  hi^h,  and 
this  was  too  small  for  exact  observations.  During  our  stay  here  the  men 
had  been  engaged  in  making  numerous  repnirs.nrrnnginc  pack-snddler,  and 
otherwise  preparing  for  the  chances  of  a  rough  rond  and  mountain  travel. 
All  things  of  this  nature  being  reudy,  I  gathered  them  around  mo  in  thn 
evening,  an*'  told  them  that  "  I  hnd  determined  to  proceed  the  next  day. 
They  were  all  well  armed.  I  had  engnged  the  services  of  Mr.  nissoncitc 
as  interpreter,  and  taken,  in  the  circums'tances,  every  possible  means  to  en- 
sure our  safety.  In  the  rumors  we  hnd  heard  I  believed  there  wns  much 
exaggeration,  nnd  then  they  were  men  accustomed  to  this  kind  of  life  and 
to  the  country;  and  that  these  were  the  dnngers  of  every  day  occurrence, 
and  to  be  expected  in  the  ordinory  course  of  their  service.  They  had 
heard  of  the  imsctlled  condition  of  tho  country  before  leaving  St.  Louis, 
and  therefore  could  not  make  it  a  reason  for  breaking  their  erigngemcnts. 
Still  I  was  unwilling  to  take  with  me  on  a  service  of  some  certain  dnnger 
men  on  whom  I  could  not  rely;  nnd  as  I  litid  iitidersiood  that  there  were 
amonff  them  some  who  were  dit-posod  to  cownrdieo.  nnd  anxiotis  to  return, 
they  hnd  but  to  come  forward  at  once  and  stole  their  desire,  and  tlioy  would 


41 


[243T 


.  Th«  flwh  i»p.| 
d  npncRriinre  nil 
routiu  Mttd  Inundl 
ifi,  Hid  I  \'ftn\ 
hu>e  ininliprrd 
nerves,  and  cuii- 

ncwh  uind,  nndl 

my  hopr  ol'  ob<| 

nltoiil  iiiiditidht. 

sugh  whi'^h  »h«| 

hcrrromftrr  nt  6 
wt3t,  n  storm  of 
infTi  which  Inrtrd 
rrivcd,  coi)»i»ting 
id  a  convidrrnble, 
^CB  were  pitched 
h   Indinns  cf  nlt| 
the  Roldirra  gen 
cni  yuM  tho  otilyl 
nnd  men  of  dis* 
nwny  the  womon[ 
ied  to  still  strnn- 
d  those  which  II 
)on  with  e^pccittl 
|ho  thieo  hnrnme'l 
found  thnt  two 
II  repairing  thrm, 
ccssont  inierrup- 
le  to  M»nk  herel 
ee,  which  I  used! 
ich  I  hnd  prom- 
lifi.     We  hnd  buti 
iently  hi^h,  nnd 
ny  hero  the  nieni 
[mck-siidillep,  nnd] 
ountnin  trnvel 
Iroiind  me  in  thfl| 
d  the  next  dny 
If  Mr,  Hissoneitel 
e  nienns  to  en- 
there  wiis  much 
Ikind  of  life  and 
dny  occurrence, 
ce.     They  hnd 
vina:  St.  Louis, 
ir  engngemcnts.! 
rertnin  danger 
thnt  there  were 
xions  to  retnrn, 
and  tlioy  would 


tM  dischnri^l  with  the  Amount  tU\9  to  them  for  the  time  they  hnd  serrrd." 
To  their  honor  hi)  it  iMitd,  ihrru  wns  hut  one  nmonf^  them  who  hnd  tho  fme 
to  roriiu  fnrMnrd  nnd  nvnil  huuMrif  of  the  iwrnuMinn.  I  mtkrd  him  soiiin 
few  <|u«miioM«  in  order  to  rxprxia  him  to  ihn  ridit  tile  of  the  men,  nnd  let 
hull  p>.  The  liny  nUer  our  depnriun^  he  eni;n);e(i  himself  lo  one  of  tho 
forin,  nnd  let  oil  with  a  pnrty  for  the  I'pprr  MiNiiouri.  I  did  not  think  ihnt 
the  Mitiiiition  of  till)  country  Jiistitled  itie  in  iiikint;  our  youn^  compnntoiH. 
Me<«i«r<.  Hrnnt  nnd  Itenton,  alont;  wiih  int.  In  <  nsn  of  miiiforlune,  it  woiiUl 
have  b«>rn  thought,  nt  the  lenM,  nn  net  of  {^reut  imprudence:  nnd  therefore, 
thoiiirli  reliictiintly,  I  determined  to  lenve  ihirn.  Knndolpli  hnd  heen  tho 
lifo  of  the  cnuip,  and  the  **iirlU  ffarron"  wi<«  niui  h  ri'yretled  by  the  men,  u> 
whom  his  houynni  spirits  find  nlFonled  great  ninunement.  I'hey  nil,  how* 
fTor,  n:,'rce<l  in  tho  propriety  of  lenving  hiui  nt  tho  fort,  hecniice,  n«  iluy 
mid,  ho  tui^Ut  cont  thu  liven  of  iinmo  of  the  men  in  n  fiu[hl  with  the  Indian:^. 
Juljf  21 . — A  portion  of  our  hnfrghge,  with  our  Held  notes  nnd  ohservntions, 
nnd  several  ini^truments,  wore  l»  ii  at  the  fort.  One  of  the  genilemen,  Mr. 
Gnlpin,  took  charge  of  n  bnromolcr,  which  he  engaged  to  olwerve  during  mvr 
ab.ienro,nnd  I  entrusted  to  Randolph,  hy  wnyofoccupnlion.thorrgiilnr  wimU 
HI/  up  of  two  of  my  chronometers,  whicl.  were  amimg  the  instruments  lel>. 
Onr  olwervaiions  showed  thni  the  rhrom, meter  which  I  retnined  for  tho  con. 
tintiniion  of  our  voynge  hnd  preserved  its  rme  in  n  most  mti^ifnctory  mnnner. 
As  deduced  from  it,  the  lon^jritiido  of  !\»rl  Larnniie  is  7A.  01'  21",  and  (rotn 
lunar  tlistanec  7/i.  (IT  29",  giving  for  tli'i  adopted  longitude  105°  21'  10". 

I  Comparing  tho  hnromeiricnl  ohsoivaiions  mnd'"  iluring  our  »tny  hero  with 
thosn  of  Dr.  (t.  Kngelmnn  at  Si.  Loiiii*,  wo  tind  lor  the  elevation  of  the  fort 
obove  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  4,47t)  feel.     Tho  winier  climnte  hero  is  remnrk- 

lably  mild  for  the  Intitude;  but  rniny  wenlher  is  frequent,  and  tho  place  is 
Icoltihrntcd  for  winds,  of  which  tho  prevailing  one  is  west.     An  euni  wind 
in  sumtnor  and  n  south  wind  in  winter  is  snid  to  be  always  accompanied 
Iwith  rain. 

Wo  were  ready  to  dcpnil ;  the  tents  were  struck,  the  mules  geared  up,  nnd 
lour  horses  saddled,  and  we  walked  up  to  the  fort  to  lake  tho  stirrup  cup 
jwiih  our  friends  in  nn  excnllonl  homchrewed  nrepnrniion.  While  thus 
Iplens.intly  en^roged,  nented  in  one  of  tho  little  cool  cli  i  l)ors,  at  tho  door  of 
Iwhich  a  man  had  heen  stationed  to  prevent  all  intrusion  from  the  Indians. 
la  niiuiher  of  chiefs,  several  of  thorn  powerful  fine-looking  men,  forced 
lihcir  way  into  tho  room  in  spite  of  all  opfmsition.  Handing  me  the  follow- 
|ing  letter,  they  took  their  scats  in  silence  : 

"FoiiT  Platte, /u/y  1,  1842. 
"Mr.  Frhmont  :  Lcs  chefs s'etnnt  nssembles  prescntemcnt  me  discnt  de 
rows  avcrtir  do  ne  point  vous  moitre  en  route,  avant  que  le  parti  do  jeunos 
^ensqiii  est  en  dehors,  soicnt  dc  rotonr.  Dcpltis  its  mo  dii^ent  qu'ils  sont 
ires  coriain  qu'ils  feront  feu,  i  la  premiere  rcnconlro.  lis  doivont  eiro  do 
fetoiir  dans  sept  i  hiiit  jours ;  excusez  si  je  vous  fuia  ces  observations,  inais 

II  mo  seinble  qu'il  est  mou  devoir  do  vous  avcrtir  du  danger.  Mcme  do 
plus,  lcs  chefs  Rotit  les  portcurs  do  ce  billet,  qui  vous  dcfendent  de  pnrtir 
»vaut  Ic  rctour  (lei»puorriers. 

Je  suis  votre  ob'tservl'r, 

»  JOSEPH  mSSONKTTE, 

"  Par  L.  B.  CHARTRAIN." 


t 


[243] 


42 


Lea  noms  <]«  quelques  chefs : 

Le  Chnpoau  de  Loutre,  le  Casseur  do  Filches,  la  Nuit  Notr,  La  Queue| 
do  Bocuf. 

[Tmulation] 

"  Fort  Plattb,  My  1, 1842. 
"  Mr.  Fremont  :  The  chiefs  having  assembled  in  council,  have  justl 
told  me  to  warn  yon  not  to  set  out  before  the  party  of  young  men  which  ii[ 
now  out  shall  have  returned.  Furthermore,  they  tell  me  that  they  are| 
very  sure  they  will  fire  upon  you  as  soon  as  they  meet  you.  They  are  ex- 
pected hack  in  seven  or  eight  duys ;  excuse  me  for  mtiking  these  observa*! 
•tions,  but  it  seems  my  duty  to  warn  you  of  danger.  Moreover,  the  chiefil 
who  prohibit  your  setting  out  before  the  return  of  the  warriors,  are  tho| 
hearers  of  this  note. 

« I  am  your  obedient  servant, 

♦•JOSEPH  BISSONRTTE, 

"  By  L.  B.  OHARTRAIN. 

"  Names  of  some  of  the  chiefs  : 
"  The  Otter  Hat,  the  Breaker  of  Arrows,  the  Black  Night,  the  Buiril 
Tail."  ,  ,  ' 

After  reading  this,  I  mentioned  its  purport  to  my  companions,  and  se«<| 
ing  that  all  were  fully  possessed  of  its  contents,  one  of  the  Indians  rose  xx\ 
and  having  first  shaken  hands  with  me,  spoke  as  follows : 

"  You  have  come  among  us  at  a  bad  time.  Some  of  our  people  havd 
been  ki'*'^d,  and  our  young  men,  who  are  gone  to  the  mountains,  are  eagen 
to  avenge  the  blood  of  their  relations,  which  has  been  shed  by  the  whitesi 
Our  young  men  are  bad,  and  if  they  meet  you  they  will  believe  that  you 
are  carrying  goods  and  ammunition  to  their  enemies,  and  will  fire  npoij 
you.  You  nave  told  us  that  this  will  make  war.  We  know  that  our  grea 
father  has  many  soldiers  and  big  guns,  and  we  are  anxious  to  have  o\\\ 
lives.  We  love  the  whites,  and  are  dr  irons  of  peace.  Thinking  of  al| 
these  things,  we  have  determined  to  keep  you  here  ui:til  our  warriors  re 
turn.  We  are  glad  to  see  you  among  us.  Our  father  is  rich,  and  we  exi 
peeled  that  you  would  have  brought  presents  to  us — horses,  and  guns,  hm 
blankets.  But  we  are  glad  to  see  you.  We  look  upon  your  coming  as  iha 
light  which  ^oes  before  the  sun ;  for  you  will  tell  our  great  father  that  you  havJ 
seen  us,  and  that  we  are  naked  and  poor,  and  have  nothing  to  eat,  and  he  will 
fiend  us  all  these  things."    He  was  followed  by  the  others  to  the  same  effect] 

The  observations  of  the  savage  appeared  reasonable ;  but  1  was  awarj 
that  they  had  in  view  only  the  present  object  of  detaining  me,  and  wer 
luiwilling  I  should  go  further  into  the  country.    In  reply,  I  nsked  ther 
through  the  interpretation  of  Mr.  Boudeau,  to  select  two  or  three  of  theij 
number  to  accompany  us  until  we  should  meet  iheir  people — they  shnula 
spread  their  robes  in  my  tent  and  eat  at  my  table,  and  on  our  return  I 
would  give  them  presents  in  reward  of  their  services.     They  declined,  say| 
ing  that  there  were  no  youn^  men  left  in  the  village,  and  that  they  wer 
too  old  to  travel  so  many  days  on  horseback,  and  preferred  now  to  smokj 
their  pipes  in  the  lodge,  and  let  the  warriors  go  on  the  war-path.     Besidesl 
they  had  no  power  over  the  young  mAi,  and  were  afraid  to  interfere  witlT 


4S 


[243] 


it  Noir,  La  Queuel 


B,yu/y  1,1842. 
council,  havo  iustl 
ling  men  which  iai 
me  that  they  nrel 
HI.  They  are  ex-" 
\ng  these  observi*! 
sreover,  the  chiefil 
}  warriors,  are  thai 


ONRTTE, 
OHARTRAIN. 


:  Night,  the  Buiri^ 

t  ] 

npanions,  and  see-l 
le  Indians  rose  upJ 
i:  I 

>f  our  people  have 
)untains,  are  eageij 
led  by  the  whites 
believe  that  you 
and  will  fire  upon 
ujw  that  our  grea 
xious  to  have  ouil 
Thinking  of  all 
,il  our  warriors  rej 
rich,  and  we  exj 
les,  and  s[uns,  anif 
our  coming  as  ihfl 
ither  that  you  hava 
to  eat,  and  he  will 
lo  the  same  effectJ 
but  1  was  awarif 
ng  me,  and  we 
i|y,  I  asked  ihet 
or  three  of  theii 
pie — they  shouldj 
on  our  return 
ey  declined,  say] 
id  that  they  wet 
•ed  now  to  smokti 
ii-path.     Besides! 
to  interfere  with 


lem.    In  my  turn  I  addressed  them :  "  You  say  that  you  love  the  whiles ; 

my  have  you  killed  so  many  already  this  spring?     You  say  that  you  love 

\e  whites,  irnd  are  full  of  many  expressions  of  friendship  to  us,  but  you 

re  not  willing  io  undergo  the  fatigue  of  a  few  days'  ride  to  save  our  lives. 

if'o  do  not  believe  what  you  have  said,  and  will  not  listen  to  you.    What- 

jrer  a  chief  among  us  tells  his  soldiers  to  do,  is  done.    We  are  the  soldier* 

the  great  chief,  your  father.    He  has  told  us  to  come  here  and  see  this 

)untry,  and  all  the  Indians,  his  children.    Why  should  we  not  go  ?    Be- 

fre  we  came,  we  heard  that  you  had  killed  his  people,  and  ceased  to  be 

Is  children ;  but  we  came  among  you  peaceably,  holding  out  our  hands. 

low  we  find  that  the  stories  we  heard  are  not  lies,  and  that  you  are  no 

Inger  his  friends  and  children.     We  have  thrown  away  our  bodies,  and 

fill  not  turn  back.    When  you  told  us  that  your  young  men  would  kill 

B,  you  did  not  know  that  our  hearts  were  strong,  and  you  did  not  see  the 

Ifles  which  my  young  men  carry  in  their  hands.    We  are  few,  and  you 

re  many,  and  may  kill  us  all ;  but  there  will  be  much  crying  in  your  vil- 

l^es,  for  many  of  your  young  men  will  stay  behind,  and  forget  to  retura 

\\i\\  your  warriors  from  the  mountains.    Do  you  think  Ihat  our  great 

lief  will  let  his  soldiers  die,  and  forget  to  cover  their  graves  ?    Before  the 

[lows  melt  again,  his  warriors  will  sweep  away  your  villages  as  the  fire 

968  the  prairie  in  the  autumn.    See !    I  have  pulled  down  mv  trAtVe 

ouses,  and  my  people  are  ready :  when  the  sun  is  ten  paces  hi^)ier,  we 

liall  be  on  the  march.    If  you  have  anything  to  tell  us,  you  will  say  it 

in."     I  broke  up  the  conference,  as  I  could  do  nothing  with  these  people, 

id  being  resolved  to  proceed,  nothing  was  to  be  gained  by  delay.    Ac- 

^mpanied  by  oiir  hospitable  friends,  we  returned  to  the  camp.     We  had 

Counted  our  horses,  and  our  parting  salutations  had  been  exchanged,  when 

lie  of  the  chiefs,  the  Bull's  Tail,  arrived  lo  tell  mo  that  they  had  deter> 

lined  to  send  a  young  man  with  us ;  and  if  I  would  point  out  the  place  of 

[ir  evening  camp,  he  should  join  us  there.     "The  young  man  is  poor," 

jiid  he,  "  he  has  no  horse,  and  expects  you  to  give  him  one."    I  described 

him  the  place  where  I  intended  to  encamp,  and  shaking  hands,  in  a  few 

linutes  we  were  among  the  hills,  and  this  last  habitation  of  whites  shut 

u  from  our  view. 

,  The  road  led  over  an  interesting  plateau  between  the  north  fork  of  the 
llatte  on  the  right  and  Laramie  river  on  the  led.  At  the  distance  of  ten 
liles  from  the  fort  we  entered  the  sandy  bed  of  a  creek,  a  kind  of  defile, 
Jncled  by  precipitous  rocks,  down  which  we  wound  our  way  for  several 
lindred  yards  to  a  place  where,  on  the  left  bank,  a  very  large  spring  gushes 
litli  considerable  noise  and  force  out  of  the  limestone  rock.  It  is  called 
me  Warm  Spring,"  and  furnishes  to  the  hitherto  dry  bed  of  the  creek  a 
jnsiderable  rivulet.  On  the  opposite  side,  a  little  below  the  spring,  is  a 
|fty  limestone  escarpment,  partially  ^shaded  by  a  grove  of  large  trees,  whose 
reen  foliage,  in  contrast  with  the  whiteness  of  the  rock,  renders  this  a  pic- 
Iresqne  locality.  The  rock  is  fossiliferous,  and,  so  far  as  I  was  able  to 
^termine  the  character  of  the  fossils,  belongs  to  the  carboniferous  lime- 
>ne  of  the  Missouri  river,  and  is  probably  the  western  limit  of  that  forma- 
)n.  Beyond  this  point  I  met  with  no  fossils  of  any  description. 
j  I  was  desirous  to  visit  the  Platte  near  the  point  where  it  leaves  the  Black 
Jills,  and  therefor?  followed  this  stream,  for  two  or  three  mil^s,  to  the  mouth ; 
[here  I  encamped  on  a  spot  which  afforded  good  grass  and  prMe  (equise- 
)m)  for  our  animals.    Our  tents  having  been  found  too  thin  to  protect 


I 


(1 


[243] 


44 


ourselves  and  the  instrumonts  from  the  rains,  which  in  this  etevnted  coiq 
try  are  attended  with  cold  and  unpleasant  weather,  I  had  procured  fn 
the  Indiana  at  Laramie  a  tolerably  large  lodse,  about  eighteen  feel  in  diad 
eier  and  twenty  feet  in  height.     Such  a  lodge,  when  properly  pitched,  i 
from  its  roaica!  furm,'almost  perfectly  secure  against  the  violent  win 
which  are  frequent  in  this  region,  and  with  a  fire  in  the  centre  is  a  dry  ad 
warm  shelter  in  bad  weather.    By  raising  the  lower  part  so  ns  to  pern 
the  breeze  to  pass  freely,  it  is  converted  into  a  pleasant  summer  residend 
with  the  extraordinary  advantage  of  being  entirely  free  from  mosquitc 
one  of  which  I  have  never  seen  in  an  Indian  lodge.    While  we  were  i 
gaged  very  unskilfully  in  erectitig  this,  the  interpreter,  Mr.  Bissoneti 
arrived,  accompanied  by  the  Indian  and  his  wife.    She  laughed  at 
awkwardness,  and  offered  her  assistance,  of  which  we  were  frequctiij 
afterward  obliged  to  avail  ourselves,  before  the  men  acquired  sufficient  i 
pertness  to  pitch  it  without  difficulty.    F^rom  this  place  we  hod  a  fine  vitj 
of  the  gorge  where  the  Platte  issues  from  the  Black  Hills,  changing! 
character  abruptly  from  a  mountain  stream  into  a  river  of  the  plains.    IJ 
mediately  around  us  the  valley  of  the  stream  was  tolerably  open,  and] 
^  Ihe  distance  of  a  few  miles,  where  the  river  had  cut  its  way  tnrough  tf 
bills,  was  the  narrow  clefi,  on  one  side  of  which  a  lofty  precipice  of  bri^ 
red  rock  rose  vertically  above  the  low  hills  which  lay  between  us. 

Jiiltf  22. — In  the  morning,  while  breakfast  was  being  prepared,  I  visiii 
this  place  with  my  favorite  man,  Bosil  l.oieunes8e.  Entering  so  far  as  tha 
was  footing  for  the  mules,  we  dismountedf,  and,  lying  our  animals,  conil 
ued  our  way  on  foot.    Like  the  whole  country,  the  scenery  of  the  ri« 
had  undergone  an  entire  change,  and  wos  in  this  place  the  must  beautil 
I  have  ever  seen.     The  breadth  of  the  stream,  generally  near  that  of  | 
valley,  was  from  two  to  three  hundred  feet,  wiih  a  swift  current,  occasi( 
ally  broken  by  rapids,  and  the  water  perfectly  clear.    On  either  side 
the  red  precipices,  vertical,  and  sometimes  overhanging,  two  and  four  hd 
dred  feet  in  heisfht,  crowned  with  green  summits,  on  which  were  scatteil 
a  few  pines.     At  the  foot  of  the  rocks  was  the  usual  detritus,  formed] 
masses  fallen  from  above.     Among  the  pines  that  grew  here  and  oni 
occasional  banks  were  the  cheiry.  (cerasus  vii^inimm)  currants,  ond  grai 
de  bocuf  {shepherdia  argentea.)  Viewed  in  the  sunshine  of  a  pleosont  nioj 
ing,  the  scenery  was  of  a  most  striking  and  romantic  beauty,  which  arJ 
from  the  picturesque  disposition  of  the  objects  and  the  vivid  contrasti 
colors.     I  thought  with  much  pleasure  of  our  approaching  descent  in  J 
canoe  through  such  interesting  places;  and,  in  the  expectation  of  being  al 
at  that  lime  to  give  to  thetn  a  full  examination,  did  not  now  dwell  so  muchi 
might  have  been  desirable  upon  the  geological  formations  along  the  linef 
the  river,  where  they  are  developed  with  great  clearness.     The  upper  p 
tion  of  the  red  strata  consists  of  very  compact  clay,  in  which  are  occasiond 
seen  imbedded  large  pebbles.    Below  was  a  stratum  of  compact  led  snij 
stone,  changing  a  little  above  the  river  into  a  very  hard  siliceous  limestoj 
There  is  a  small  but  handsome  open  prairie  iinmrdiately  below  this  place,| 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  which  would  be  a  good  locality  for  a  military  ] 
There  are  some  open  groves  of  cottonwood  on  the  Platte.     The  sri 
.  stream  which  comes  in  at  this  place  is  well  timbered  with  pine,  and  gii 
building  rock  is  abundant.  I 

If  It  is  in  contemplation  to  keep  open  the  communications  with  Oresj 
Territory,  a  show  of  military  force  iu  this  country  is  absolutely  necessa 


lid  a  coi 
le  most 
linilitar) 
Ipper 
]>t  in  atl 
^ighborij 
sts  on 


45 


[243] 


jid  a  combination  of  advantages  renders  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Laramie 

|e  most  suitable  place,  on  the  line  of  the  Plutte,  for  the  establishment  of 

■military  post.    It  is  connected  with  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  and  the 

Ipper  Missouri  by  excellent  roads,  which  are  in  frequent  use,  and  would 

y  in  any  way  interfere  with  the  range  of  the  buffalo,  on  which  the 

ighboring  Indians  mainly  depend  for  support.    It  would  render  any 

sis  on  the  Lower  Platte  unnecessary ;  the  ordinary  communication  be* 

keen  it  and  the  Missouri  being  sufficient  to  control  the  intermediate  In- 

ins.    It  would  operate  effectually  to  prevent  any  such  coalitions  as  are 

w  formed  amouij^  the  Oros  Veiures,  Sioux,  Cheyenne,  and  other  Indians, 

d  would  keep  the  Oret,'ou  road  through  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water 

id  the  South  Pass  of  the  mountains  constantly  open.    A  glance  at  the 

p  which  accompanies  this  report,  will  show  that  it  lies  at  the  foot  of 

token  and  mountainous  region,  along  which,  by  the  establishment  of 

all  posts,  in  the  nei(;hborhoud  of  St.  Train's  fort,  on  the  South  fork  of 

Platte,  and  Bent's  fort,  on  the  Arkansas,  a  line  of  communication  would 

formed,  by  good  wagon  roads,  with  our  southern  military  posts,  which 

uld  entirely  command  the  mountain  passes,  hold  some  of  the  most 

ubiesome  tribes  in  check,  and  protect  and  facilitate  our  intercourse  with 

neighboring  Spanish  settlements.    The  valliea  of  the  rivers  on  which 

y  would  be  situated  are  fertile ;  the  country  which  supports  immense 

rd?  o\    'ifTnlo  is  admirably  adapted  to  grazing,  and  herds  of  cattle  mi^ht 

mu.  '        J  by  the  posts,  or  obtained  from  tne  Spanish  country,  which 

auy    ;r  >''  .d  a  portion  of  their  provisions  to  the  trading  posts  mentioned 

ve. 

Just  as  we  were  leaving  the  camp  this  morning  our  Indian  came  up,  and 
ted  his  intention  of  not  proceeding  any  further  until  he  had  seen  the 
rse  which  I  intended  to  give  him.  I  felt  strongly  tempted  to  drive  him 
t  of  the  camp,  but  his  presence  appeared  to  give  confidence  to  my  men, 
id  the  interpreter  thought  it  absolutely  necessary.  "I  was,  therefore, 
iged  to  do  what  he  requested,  and  pointed  out  the  animal,  with  which 
Seemed  satisfied,  and  we  continued  our  journey.  I  had  imagined  that 
Bissonette's  long  residence  had  made  him  acauained  with  the  country, 
according  to  his  advice,  proceeded  directly  forward  without  attempt- 
i;  to  regain  the  usual  road.  He  afterward  informed  me  that  he  had  rare- 
ever  lost  sight  of  the  fort ;  but  the  effect  of  the  mistake  was  to  involve 
for  a  day  or  two  among  the  hills,  where,  although  we  lost  no  time,  we 
countered  an  exceedingly  rough  road. 

To  tile  south,  along  our  line  of  march  to-day,  the  main  chain  of  the 
ckor  Laramie  Hills  rises  precipitatous.  Time  did  not  permit  me  to 
lit  them,  but,  from  comparative  information,  the  ridge  is  composed  of  the 
rse  sandstone  or  conglomerate  hereafter  described.  It  appears  to  enter 
region  of  clouds,  which  are  arrested  in  their  course  and  lie  in  masses 
ng  the  summits.  An  inverted  cone  of  black  cloud  (cumulus)  rested 
[ring all  the  forenoon  on  the  lofty  peak  of  Laramie  Mountain,  which  I  es- 
ated  to  be  about  two  thousand  feet  above  the  fort,  or  six  thousand  five 
ndred  above  the  sea.  We  halted  to  noon  on  the  Fourche  Jrnerc,  so  called 
|ra  being  timbered  principally  with  the/iarrfawierc  (a  species  of  poplar),  with 
ich  the  valley  of  the  little  stream  is  tolerably  well  wooded,  and  which, 
h  large  expansive  summits,  grows  to  the  height  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet, 
The  bed  of^the  creek  is  sand  and  gravel,  the  water  dispersed  over  the 
ad  bed  m  several  shallow  streams.    We  found  here,  on  the  right  bank, 


■^ 


♦  i 


[248] 


49 


I       -(, 


in  the  shade  of  the  trees,  a  fiae  spring  of  very  cold  water.    It  will  be 
marked  that  I  do  not  mention,  in  this  portion  of  the  journey,  the  temper 
ture  of  the  air,  sand,  springs,  d&c,  an  omission  which  will  be  explained 
the  course  of  the  narrative.    In  my  search  for  plants,  I  was  wel^  re  war ' 
at  this  place. 

Wiih  the  change  in  the  geological  fonnation,  on  leaving  Fort  Laramii 
the  whole  face  of  the  country  has  entirely  altered  its  appearance.     Kastwa 
of  that  meridian,  the  principal  objects  which  strike  the  eye  of  a  traveller 
the  absence  of  timber,,  and  the  immense  expanse  of  prairie,  covered  with 
Te4;dure  of  rich  erasses,  and  highly  adapted  for  pasturage.     Wherever  the 
are  not  disturbed  by  the  vicinity  of  man,  large  herds  of  buffalo  give  anir 
tion  to  this  country.     Westward  of  Laramie  river,  the  region  is  sandy  an 
apporenlly  sterile ;  and  the  place  of  the  gross  is  usurped  by  the  artemu 
and  other  odoriferous  plants,  to  whose  growth  the  sandy  soil  and  dry  air  i 
this  elevated  region  seem  highly  favorable. 

One  of  the  prominent  characteristics  in  the  face  cf  the  country  is  the  eij 
traordinary  abundance  of  the  artemisiaa.    They  grow  everywhere ;  on  th 
hills,  and  over  the  river  bottoms,  in  tough,  twisted,  wirey  clumps;  ao^ 
wherever  the  beaten  traci^  was  left,  they  rendered  the  progress  of  the  ca 
rough  nnd  slow.    As  the  country  increosed  in  elevation  on  our  advance  i 
the  west,  they  increased  in  size  \  and  the  whole  air  is  strongly  impregnate 
and  saturated  with  the  odor  of  camphor  and  spirits  of  turpentine  which  ' 
longs  to  this  plant.     Thjs  climate  has  been  found  very  favorable  to  the  re 
ioration  of  heullh,  particularly  in  cases  of  consumption  ;  and  possibly  ih 
respiration  of  air,  so  highly  impregnated  by  aromatic  plants,  may  have  son 
influence. 

Our  dried  meat  had  given  out,  and  we  began  to  be  in  want  of  food  ;  H 
one  of  the  hunters  killed  an  antelope  this  evening,  which  afforded  some 
lief,  although  it  did  not  go  far  among  so  many  hungry  men.    At  8  o'clc 
at  night,  after  a  march  of  twenty-seven  miles,  we  reached  our  proposed  e4 
carapment  on  the  Fer  a  Cheval,  or  Horse  Shoe  cieek.     Here  we  found  go 
grass,  with  a  great  quantity  ofprile,  which  furnished  good  food  for  our  tir 
animals.    This  creek  is  well  timbered,  principally  with  liard  amirey  an 
with  the  exception  of  Deer  creek,  which  we  had  not  yet  reached,  is  the  la 
gest  affluent  of  the  right  bank  between  Laramie  and  the  mouth  of  the  Swe 
Water. 

Jviy  23. — The  present  year  had  been  one  of  unparalleled  drought,  an 
throughout  the  country  the  water  had  been  almost  dried  up.     By  availiq 
themselves  of  the  annual  rise,  the  traders  had  invariably  succeeded  in  car 
ing  their  furs  to  the  Missouri ;  but  this  season,  as  has  already  been  mei| 
tioned,  on  both  forks  of  the  Platte  they  had  entirely  failed.    The  greati 
number  of  the  springs  and  m^iny  of  the  streams  which  made  halting  pis 
for  the  voyaffeurs,  had  been  dried  up.    Every  where  the  soil  looked  parchej 
a^id  burnt,  the  scanty  yellow  gross  crisped  under  the  foot,  and  even  the  ha 
diest  plants  were  destroyed  by  want  of  moisture.     I  think  it  necessary 
mention  this  fact,  because  to  the  rapid  evoporotion  in  such  an  elevated  regie 
■early  5,000  feel  above  the  sea,  almost  wholly  unprotected  by  timber,  shou 
be  attributed  much  of  the  sterile  appearance  of  the  country,  in  the  destrucj 
don  of  vegetation,  and  the  numerous  saline  efflorescences  which  covered  ill 
ground.     Such  I  afterward  found  to  be  the  case. 

I  was  informed  that  the  roving  villages  of  Indians  and  travellers  ha 
qever  met  with  difficulty  in  finding  an  abundance  of  grass  for  their  horsesl 


B<!riiiiis  ev 


47 


[848] 


r.    It  will  be 
ley,  the  temper 
1  be  explained 
as  well  rewarde 

g  Fort  Larami 
ranee.     Eaatwt 
of  a  traveller 
,  covered  with 

Wherever  th« 
jflfalo  give  anir 
ion  is  sandy  an 
by  the  artemit. 
loii  and  dry  air  i 

country  is  the  ei 
iry where;  on  th 
■ey  clumps;  ai 
igress  of  the  ca 
in  our  advance  I 
)ngly  impr^natei 
pentine  which ' 
vorable  to  the  r« 
;  and  possibly  th 
is,  may  have  son 

vant  of  food  ;  bij 
afforded  some 

en.    At  8  o'ck 
our  proposed  en 

ere  we  found  gc 

food  for  our  tir 

liard  amere,  an^ 

sached,  is  the  la 

louthof  theSwe 

sled  drought,  as 
lup.     By  availin 
icceeded  in  car 
[Iready  been  meij 
id.    The  great! 
^de  halting  pU 
til  looked  parch^ 
md  even  the  ba 
it  necessary 
[n  elevated  regi( 
]  by  timber,  shoulj 
in  the  destruo 
irhich  covered  ll 

lid  travellers  hi 
for  their  horsesl 


and  now  ii  was  after  great  search  that  we  were  able  to  find  a  scanty  patch  of 
griiHB,  siilfliient  to  keep  them  from  sinking,  und  iu  the  course  of  a  day  or 
two  they  began  to  sufTer  very-much.  We  found  none  to  day  at  noon  ,  and, 
in  the  course  of  ou.  search  on  the  Platte,  came  to  a  grove  of  Cottonwood 
where  some  Indian  village  hud  recenllv  encamped.  Boughs  of  the  cotlon- 
|w4nnI  yet  green  covered  the  ground,  which  the  Indians  had  cut  down  to  feed 
their  IhiriMis  upon.  It  is  only  in  the  winter  that  recourse  is  had  to  this  means 
ufiiMKiaiiiing  them ;  and  their  resort  to  it  ai  this  time  was  aslriking  evidence 
of  the  fliHie  f  the  country.  We  followed  (heir  example,  and  turned  our 
homert  into  n  grovfr  of  young  poplars.  This  began  to  present  itself  as  a  very 
serious  evil,  for  on  our  animals  depended  altogether  the  further  prosecution 
|of  our  journey. 

Shortly  after  we  had  left  this  place,  the  scouts  came  galloping  in  with 

Ithe  alarm  of  Indians.     We  turned  in  immediately  towards  the  river,  which 

here  had  a  steep  high  hank,  where  we  formed  with  the  carts  a  very  close 

Ibarriciide,  resting  on  the  river,  within  which  the  animals  were  strongly 

|hohbli>d  nnd  pif.keted.     The  guns  were  discharged  and  reloaded,  and  men 

thrown  forward,  under  cover  of  the  bank,  in  the  direction  by  which  (he 

Indians  were  expected.    Our  interpreter,  who,  with  the  Indian,  hod  gone 

(0  meet  ihem,  came  in  in  about  ten  minutes,  accompanied  by  two  Sioux. 

'hey  looked  sulky,  and  we  could  obtain  from  (hem  only  some  confused 
|nforma(ion.  We  learned  that  they  belonged  to  the  party  which  had  been 
)n  the  trail  of  the  emigrants,  whom  they  had  overtaken  at  Rock  Indepen- 
Ifldce,  on  the  Sweet  Water.  Here  the  party  h(id  disagreed,  and  came  nigh 
itfhting  among  themselves.    One  portion  were  desirous  of  a((acking  the 

rhites,  but  the  others  were  opposed  to  it ;  and  finally  they  had  broken  up 
Into  small  bands  and  dispersed  over  the  country.  The  greater  portion  of 
{hem  hud  gone  over  into  the  territory  of  the  Grows,'and  intended  to  return 
)y  way  of  the  Wind  River  valley,  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  fall  upon 

)mc  small  parties  of  Crow  Indians.  The  remainder  were  returning  down 
[he  Platte  in  scattered  parties  of  ten  and  twenty,  and  (hose  whom  we  had 
Encountered  belonged  to  those  who  had  advocated  an  attack  on  the  emi- 
grants. Several  of  the  men  suggested  shooting  them  on  the  spot ;  but  I 
>rnmptly  discountenanced  any  such  proceeding.    They  fuither  informed 

le  that  buffalo  were  very  scarce,  and  little  or  no  grass  to  be  found.  There 
lad  lieen  no  rain,  and  innumerable  quantities  of  grasshoppers  had  destroyed 
he  a[ras8.  This  insect  had  been  so  numerous  since  leaving  Fort  Larumie,. 
hat  the  ground  seemed  alive  with  them ;  and  in  walking,  a  little  moving' 
[loiiil  preceded  our  footsteps.  This  was  bad  news.  No  grass,  no  buffalo — 
for  neither  horse  nor  man.     I  guve  them  some  plugs  of  tobacco  and 

ley  went  off,  apparently  well  satif^fied  to  be  clear  of  us ;  for  my  men  did 
[ot  look  upon  them  very  lovingly,  und  (hey  glanced  suspicioutily  at  our 

rarlike  preparations,  and  the  little  ring  of  rifles  which  surrounded  them. 

^hey  were  evidently  in  a  bad  humor,  and  shot  one  of  their  horses  when 

ley  had  left  us  a  short  distance. 
We  continued  our  march,  and  after  a  journey  of  about  twenty-one  miles, 

icamped  on  the  Platte.  During  the  day,  I  had  occasionally  remaf>ked 
[mong  the  hills  the  psoralea  escttlenta,  the  bread  root  of  the  Indians.  The 
lioux  use  this  root  very  extensively,  and  I  have  frequently  met  with  it 

long  them,  cut  into  thin  slices  and  dried.    In  the  course  of  the  evening 

re  were  visited  by  six  Indians,  who  told  us  that  a  larger  party  was  en- 


[243] 


48 


f 


Hi 


|l|'' 
l'i> 


cumpvd  a  fow  miles  above.    Astronomicnl  observations  placed  us  in  longi- 
tude lUG^  03'  40",  ftijd  laiitude  4^°  39'  25". 

Wo  mode  the  next  day  twenijr-two  miles,  and  encamnod  on  the  right 
bnnk  of  the  Platte,  whore  a  hund.iome  meadow  aflfordea  tolerably  good 
grass.  There  were  the  remains  of  an  old  fort  here,  thrown  up  in  some 
sudden  emergency,  and  on  the  opposite  side  was  a  pictiireoqnu  bluif  of 
ferruginous  sandstone.  There  was  a  handsome  (trove  a  little  above,  and 
scattered  groups  of  trees  bordered  the  river.  BiifTulo  made  their  appear- 
ance this  afternoon,  and  the  huntcn*  came  in  shortly  aHer  we  had  encamp- 
ed, with  three  tine  cows.  The  night  was  fine,  and  observations  gave  for 
the  latitude  of  the  camp,  42°  47'  40". 

Julff  25. — We  made  liut  thirteen  miles  this  day,  and  encamped  about 
noon  in  a  pleasant  grove  on  the  right  bank.     Low  scatFolds  were  erected, , 
upon  which  the  meat  was  laid,  cut  up  into  thin  strips,  and  small  fires  kin- 
dled below.    Our  object  was  to  profit  by  the  vicinity  of  the  buffalo,  to  lay  | 
in  a  stock  of  provisions  for  ten  or  fifteen  days.    In  the  cotirse  of  the  after- 
noon, the  hunters  brought  in  five  or  six  cows,  and  all  hands  were  kept  I 
busily  employed  in  preparing  the  meat,  to  the  drying  of  which  the  guard 
attended  during  the  night.    Our  people  had  recovered  their  gaiety,  and 
the  busy  figures  around  the  blazinir  fires  gave  n  picturesque  air  to  the 
camp.    A  very  serious  accident  occurred  this  morniuir,  in  the  broakins  of| 
one  of  the  barometers.    These  had  been  the  object  of  my  constant  solici- 
tude, and,  as  I  had  intended  them  principally  for  mountain  service,  I  had  I 
used  them  as  seldom  as  possible;  taking  them  always  down  at  night,  and 
on  the  wccurrence  of  storms,  in  order  to  lessen  the  chances  of  being  broken. 
I  was  reduced  to  one,  a  standard  barometer,  of  Troughton's  construction.] 
This  I  determined  to  preserve,  if  possible.    The  latitude  is  42°  51'  35", 
and  by  a  mean  of  the  results  from  chronometer,  and  lunar  distances,  the| 
adopted  longitude  of  this  can:p  is  106°  25'  10". 

Juti/  26. — Early  this  morning:  we  were  again  in  motion.  Wo  had  ii 
stock  of  provisions  fur  fifteen  days,  carefully  stored  away  in  the  carts,  andl 
this  I  resolved  should  only  be  encroached  upon  when  our  rifles  should  faill 
to  procure  us  present  support.  I  determined  to  reach  the  lAountuins,  if  ill 
Mrere  in  any  way  possible.  In  the  meantime  buffalo  were  plenty.  In  sizi 
miles  from  our  encampment,  which,  by  way  of  distinction,  we  shall  calll 
Dried  Meat  camp,  we  crossed  u  handsome  stream,  called  La  Fourche  BoiaitX 
It  is  well  timbered,  and  among  the  flowers  in  bloom  on  its  banks,  I  remark-f 
ed  several  asters. 

Five  miles  further  we  made  our  noon  halt,  on  the  banks  of  the  Plattel 
in  the  shade  of  some  cottonwoods.  There  were  here,  as  sfenerally  novrl 
along  the  river,  thickets  of  hippophatt^  the  grains  de  bwufoi  the  country.r 
They  were  of  two  kinds  ;  one  bearing  a  red  berry,  (the  shcpherdia  argen\ 
tia  of  Nuttall ;)  the  other  a  yellow  berry,  of  which  the  Tartars  are  said  to| 
make  a  kind  of  rob. 

By  a  meridian  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  place  was,  42°  50'  08^J 
It  Wfi^  my  daily  practice  to  take  observations  of  the  sun's  meridian  altitude,! 
and  why  they  are  not  given,  will  appear  in  the  sequel.  Ei^ht  miles  furthe 
we  reached  the  mouth  of  Deer  creek,  where  we  encamped.  Here  was  all 
abundance  of  rich  gross,  and  our  animals  were  compensated  for  past  prival 
tions.  This  stream  was  at  this  time  twenty  feet  broad,  and  well  timberedl 
with  Cottonwood  of  an  uncommon  size.  It  is  the  largest  tributary  of  thf 
Platte  between  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water  and  the  Laramie.    Our  asl 


river  wai 


course,  w 


49 


[24«] 


od  us  in  longi-  I  tronomicti  obiervations  gave  for  the  mouth  of  the  steam  a  longitude  of 
10«o  43'  15",  and  latitude  42°  52'  24". 

jfi^y  27. — Nothing  worthy  of  mention  occurred  on  thia  day ;  we  travelled 
later  than  usual,  having  8|)ent  some  time  in  searching  for  grass,  crossing 
and  reciossing  the  river  before  we  could  find  a  suHlcient  quantity  for  our 
animals.  Toward  dusk,  we  encamped  among  some  artemisia  bushes,  two 
and  three  feot  in  height,  where  some  scattered  patches  of  short  tough  grass 
afforded  a  scanty  supply.  In  crosaing,  we  had  occasion  to  observe,  that  the 
river  was  frequently  too  deep  to  be  forded,  though  we  always  succeeded  in 
finding  a  place  where  the  water  did  not  enter  the  carts.  The  stream  continued 
very  clear,  with  two  or  three  hundred  feet  brendth  of  water,  and  the  sandy 
bed  and  banks  were  frequently  covered  with  large  round  pebbles.  We  had 
travelled  this  day  twenty-seven  miles.  The  main  chain  of  the  Black  Hills 
were  here  only  about  seven  miles  to  the  south,  on  the  right  bank  of  tho 
river,  rising  abruptly  to  the  heigth  of  eight  nnd  twelve  hundred  feet.  Patches 
of  f^reen  gross  in  the  ravines  on  the  steep  sides,  marked  the  presence  of 
springs,  and  the  summits  were  clad  with  pines. 

Jmy  28. — In  two  miles  from  our  encampmen^we  reached  the  place  where 
the  regular  road  crosses  the  Platte.  There  was  two  hundred  foet  breadth 
I  of  water  at  this  time  in  the  bed.  which  hos  a  variable  width  of  eight  to  fif* 
tcun  hundred  feet.  The  chai...el8  were  generally  three  feet  deep,  and  there 
were  large  angular  rocks  on  the  bottom,  which  made  the  ford  in  some  places 
a  little  difficult.  Even  ut  its  low  stages  this  river  cnn  not  be  crossed  at 
random,  and  this  has  always  been  used  as  the  best  ford.  The  low  stage  of 
the  waters  the  present  year  had  made  it  fordable  in  almost  any  part  of  its 
{course,  where  access  could  be  had  to  its  bed. 

For  the  satisfaction  of  travellers,  I  will  endeavor  to  give  some  descrip> 

Ition  of  the  nature  of  the  road  from  Laramie  to  this  point.    The  nature  of 

the  soil  may  be  inferred  from  its  geological  formation.    The  limestone  ot 

the  eastern  limit  of  thia  section,  is  sticceeded  by  limestone  without  fossils, 

a  great  variety  of  sandstone,  consisting  principally  of  red  sandstone  and 

fine  conglomerates.     I^he  red  sandstone  is  argillaceous,  with  compact  white 

Igypsum  or  alabaster,  very  beautiful.     The  other  sandstones  are  gray, 

lyellow,  and  ferruginous,  sometimes  very  coarse.    'I'he  apparent  sterility  of 

Ithe  country  must  therefore  be  sought  for  in  other  causes  than  the  nature  of 

Ithe  soil.     The  face  of  the  country  can  not  with  propriety  be  called  hilly. 

lit  is  a  succession  of  long  ridges,  made  by  the  numerous  streams  which 

Icome  down  from  the  neighboring  mountain  range.     The  ridges  have  an 

lundulating  surface,  with  some  such  appearance  as  the  ocean  presents  in  an 

Jordinary  breeze. 

The  road  which  is  now  generally  followed  through  this  region  is,  there- 
Ifore,  a  very  good  one,  without  any  difficult  ascents  to  overcome.  The 
■principal  obstructions  are  near  the  river,  where  the  transient  waters  of 
jheavy  rains  have  mode  deep  ravines  with  steep  banks,  which  renders  frequent 
Icircuits  necessary.  It  will  be  remembered  that  wagons  pass  this  road  only 
lonce  or  twice  a  year,  which  is  by  no  means  sufficient  to  break  down  the 
Istubborn  roots  of^  the  innumerable  artemisia  bushes.  A  partial  absence  of 
Ithese  is  often  the  only  indication  of  the  track,  and  the  roughness  produced  by 
liheir  roots  in  many  places  gives  the  road  the  character  of  one  newly  opened 
lin  a  wooded  country.  This  is  usually  considered  th  "'orst  part  of  the 
lioad  east  of  the  mountains,  and  as  it  passes  through  an  open  prairie  region 
4     •  -^'" 


[243] 


50 


may  bo  much  improrcd,  so  as  to  avoid  (he  greater  part  of  the  inaqualitii 
it  now  prvsoiitd. 

From  ihe  mouth  of  the  Kansas  to  the  Green  rirrr  vnlley.  west  of  il 
Rocky  Mountains,  (here  is  no  such  thing  as  o  niountain  road  on  the  lii 
of  communication. 

We  continued  our  way,  and  four  miles  beyond  (he  ford,  Indians  were  dii 
covered  again,  and  1  halted  while  a  party  were  sent  forward  to  ascertaiij 
who  they  were.  In  a  short  time  they  returned,  accompanied  by  a  numb 
of  Indians  of  the  Oglullah  band  of  Sioux.  From  them  we  received  soi 
interesting  information.  They  hod  formed  port  of  the  great  village,  whicll 
they  informed  us  hud  broken  up,  and  was  on  its  way  homo.     The  gread 

Rart  of  the  village,  including  the  Arapahoes,  Cheyennes,  and  Oglallat 
ad  crossed  the  Plutte  eighi  or  ten  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Swc 
Water,  and  were  now  behind  the  mountiiins  to  the  south  of  us,  intcndin 
to  regain  the  Platte  by  way  of  Deer  creek.    They  had  taken  this  unusui] 
route  in  search  of  gross  and  game.    They  gave  us  a  very  didcourasinj 
picture  of  tliu  country.    The  great  drought,  ond  the  ph^ue  of  grusehop 
pers,  hud  swept  it  so,  that  scarce  a  blade  of  grass  was  to  be  seen,  and  then 
was  not  a  buffalo  to  be  found  in  the  wholo  region.    Their  people,  thejl 
further  ;)uid,  hud  been  nearly  starved  to  death,  and  we  would  find  theJ 
road  marked  by  lodges  which  they  had  thrown  away  in  order  to  mor^ 
more  rapidly,  and  by  the  carcases  of  the  horses  which  (hey  had  eaten,  i 
which  hud  perished  by  starvation.    Such  was  (hn  prospect  before  us. 

When  ho  hod  finished  (he  interpretation  of  these  things,  Mr.  Bissonetti 
immediately  rude  up  to  me  and  urgently  advised  (hut  1  should  entirelij 
abandon  the  further  prosecution  of  my  exploration.     *'  Le  meilleure  at 
que  je  pourraia  vous  donner^  c*cst  de  vircr  de  suited    "  The  best  advice | 
cun  give  give  you,  is  to  turn  back  at  once."    It  was  his  own  inieniion 
return,  as  we  had  now  reached  the  point  to  which  he  hud  engaged  to  ill 
tend  me.    In  reply,  I  culled  up  my  men  and  communicated  to  them  fully  th 
information  I  hud  just  received.     I  (hen  expressed  to  them  niv  fixed  deterini 
nution  to  proceed  to  the  ond  of  the  enterprise  on  which  I  hud  been  senj 
but  as  the  situation  of  the  country  gave  me  some  reason  tu  apprehend  tha 
it  might  be  attended  with  an  unfortunate  result  (o  some  of  us,  I  would  leaf 
it  optional  with  thcra  to  continue  with  me  or  to  return. 

Among  them  were  some  five  or  six  who  I  knew  would  remain.     ^1 
hud  still  ten  day's  provisions;  and,  should  no  game  be  found,  when  thij 
stock  was  expended,  we  had  our  horses  and  mules,  which  we  could  ett 
when  other  means  of  subsistence  failed.     But  not  a  man  flinched  from  tli 
undertaking.     *' We'll  eat  the  mules,"  said  Bitsil  Lujounesse;  and  ther 
upon  we  snook  hands  with  our  interpreter  and  his  Indians,  and  par(c^ 
With  (lioin  I  sent  back  one  of  my  men,  Dumes,  whom  the  effects  of  an  olj 
wound  in  the  leg  rendered  incapable  of  continuing  the  journey  on  foo 
and  his  horse  seemed  on  the  point  of  giving  out.     Having  resolved  to  dij| 
encnml»er  ourselves  immediately  of  every  thing  not.ubaolutely  necessary  i 
our  future  operations,  I  turned  directly  in  towards  the  river,  and  encump 
on  the  left  bank,  a  little  ubove  the  place  where  our  council  had  been  helil 
and  wiierc  a  thick  grove  of  willows  offered  a  suitable  spot  for  the  object] 
had  in  view. 

The  cans  hnvinn;  been  discharged,  the  covers  and  wheels  were  taken  ol| 
and,  with  the  frames,  carried  into  .some  low  places  among  the  willows,  an 
concealed  in  the  deu$e  foliage  in  such  a  maimer  that  the  glitter  of  the  iroi 


n 


[2431 


work  misrht  not  atlruct  ihe  obienralion  of  lome  itragglinff  Indivn.     In  tho 

sand  which  hod  been  blown  up  into  waved  amonv  ihu  wilTows,  a  larps  holo 

was  then  dug,  ten  feat  iqtiaro  and  six  deep.     In  the  meantime,  all  our 

lefTflcis  had  been  Nprcad  out  upon  tho  ground,  and  whatever  was  designed 

[to  be  carried  along  with  us  separated  and  laid  anido,  und  the  remaining 

part  carried  to  the  hole  and  carefully  covered  up.    As  much  a^  possible  all 

[traces  of  our  proceedings  wore  obliterated,  ond  it  wanted  but  a  rain  to  reo- 

Ider  our  cftche  snfn  beyond  discovery.    All  the  men  were  now  set  at  work 

|to  arrange  the  pack-saddles  and  make  up  Ihe  packs. 

The  day  was  very  warm  and  calm,  and  the  sky  entirely  clear,  except 

|where,  as  usual  along  tho  summits  of  the  mountainous  ridge  opposite,  the 

slonds  had  congregated  in  masses.    Our  lodge  had  been  planted,  and,  on 

iccount  of  tho  neat,  the  ground-pins  had  been  taken  out,  and  the  lower 

j)nrt  slightly  raised.     Near  to  it  was  standing  the  barometer,  which  swung 

[n  a  tripod  frame;  and  within  the  lodge,  where  a  small  fire  Imd  been  built, 

Ir.  Preuss  was  occupied  in  observing  the  temperature  of  boiling  wotor. 

Lt  this  instant,  and  without  any  warning,  until  it  whs  within  fifty  yards, 

I  violent  gust  of  wind  dashed  down  the  Imlge,  burying  under  it  Mr.  Preuss 

ind  about  a  dozen  men,  who  had  attempted  to  keep  it  from  beingcnrried  away. 

'  succeeded  in  saving  the  barometer,  which  the  lodge  wos  earring  off  with 

Itself,  but  the  thermomoier  was  broken.  We  had  no  others  of  a  high  grudu> 

Vioii,  none  of  those  which  remained  going  higher  than  135°  Fahrenheit. 

lur  astronomical  observations  gave  to  this  place,  which  we  named  Cach§ 

famp,  a  longitude  of  107°  16'  55",  latitude  42°  60'  63". 

JiUy  29. — All  our  arrangements  having  been  completed,  we  left  the  en- 

impment  at  7  o'clock  this  morning.     In  this  vicinity  the  ordinary  road 

saves  the  Platte,  and  crosses  over  to  the  Sweet  Water  river,  which  it  strikes 

[ear  Rock  Independence.  Instead  of  following  this  road,  I  had  determined 

keep  the  immediate  valley  of  the  Platte  so  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet 

Tater,  in  the  expectation  of  finding  better  grass.    To  this  I  was  further 

[rompted  by  the  nature  of  my  instructions.    To  Mr.  Carson  was  assigned 

lie  office  of  guide,  as  we  had  now  reached  a  part  of  the  country  with 

^hich,  or  a  great  part  of  which,  long  residence  had  made  him  familiar.  In 

few  miles  we  reached  the  Red  Buites,.a  famous  landmark  in  this  country, 

rhose  geological  composition  is  red  sandstone,  limestone,  and  calcareous 

jindMone,  and  puddingatone. 

The  river  here  cuts  its  way  through  a  ridge ;  on  the  eastern  side  of  it 

the  lofty  escarpments  of  red  argilToceous  sandstone,  which  are  called 

|e  Red  Buttes.     In  (his  passage  tne  stream  is  not  much  compressed  or 

ml  up,  there  being  a  bank  of  considerable  though  variable  breadth  on 

jther  side.     Immediately  on  entering  we  discovered  a  band  of  buffalo. 

[he  hunters  failed  to  kill  any  of  ihem,  the  lending  hunter  being  thrown 

|to  a  ravine,  which  occasioned  some  delay,  and  in  the  meantime  the  herd 

imbered  up  the  steep  face  of  ihe  ridge.    It  is  sometimes  wonderful  to  see 

Bse  apparently  clumsy  animals  make  their  way  up  nnd  down  the  most 

jfifged  ond  broken  precipices.     We  halted  lo  noon  before  we  had  cleared 

|is  passage  at  a  spot  twelve  miles  distant  from  Cnche  camp,  where  we 

ind  an  abundance  of  grass.   So  far  the  account  of  the  Indians  was  found 

I  be  false.    On  the  banks  were  willow  and  cherry  trees.     The  cherries 

ere  not  yet  ripe,  but  in  the  thickets  were  numerous  fresh  tracks  of  the 

lizzly  hear,  which  are  very  fond  of  this  fruit.     The  soil  here  is  red,  the 

Imposition  being  derived  from  the  redsnndstone.  About  seven  miles  brought 


f 


[«48] 


M 


■ 


vm  through  the  ridge,  in  whioh  iha  ooune  of  the  river  ii  north  and  lonl 
Here  the  valley  opetta  out  broadly,  and  hi|{h  walla  of  the  rrd  ioriiialion  pr 
■ant  themaetvea  amonir  the  hilla  lo  the  eatit.  We  croased  here  a  pretty  hi 
craek^  an  aAliieni  of  tlie  right  bank.     It  m  well  timbered  with  colionwc 
in  thia  vicinity,  and  the  abainthe  haa  lu«i  ita  thrublike  character,  and 
come  imall  treea  six  and  eight  feet  in  height,  and  sonoetimes  eight  inch 
in  diameter.     Two  or  three  milea  above  thia  creek  we  ma^le  our  encai 
mtnt,  having  travelled  to  day  twenty-flve  milee.    Our  animala  fared  w« 
here,  as  there  is  an  abundance  of  grass.    I^lie  river  bed  ia  made  up  of  [ 
blea,  and  in  the  bank  at  the  level  of  the  water  is  n  congionierale  of  coon 
pobblee  about  the  site  of  uatrich  egn,  and  which  I  remarked  in  the  ' 
of  the  Laramie  fork.    It  is  overiaKTby  a  hoII  of  mixed  clay  ^nd  sand 
feet  thick.    By  aatronomical  obaervations  our  position  is  in  longitude  1( 
W  mf',  and  latitude  42^  38^. 

Juty  3U. — After  travelling  about  twelve  miles  this  morning,  we  reached] 
place  where  the  Indian  village  hod  crossed  the  river.     Here  were  the 
of  discarded  lodges  and  skeletons  of  horses  lying  about.     Mr.  Carson,  w| 
had  never  been  higher  up  than  this  point  on  the  river,  which  has  the  chi 
ncler  of  being  exceedingly  rugged  and  waited  in  by  precipices  above,  thoii 
it  advisable  to  camp  near  this  place,  where  we  were  certoin  of  obtainlij 
grass,  and  to-morrow  make  our  crossing  among  the  rugged  hills  to  the  Swi| 
Water  river.     Accordingly  we  turned  back  and  descended  the  river  to 
island  near  by,  which  won  about  twenty  acres  in  size,  covered  with  o  lui 
riant  growth  of  grass.     The  formation  here  I  found  highly  interesting.    Id 
mediately  ai  this  island  the  river  is  again  shut  up  in  the  rugged  hills,  whiJ 
come  down  to  it  from  the  main  ridge  in  n  succession  of  spurs  three  or  f«( 
hundred  feet  high,  and  oliernated  with  green  level  prairwont  or  meadoij 
bordered  on  the  river  banks  with  thickets  of  willow,  and  having  many  pit 
to  interest  the  traveller.     The  islond  lies  between  two  of  these  rids 
three  or  four  hundred  yards  apart,  of  which  that  on  the  right  bank  is 
posed  entirely  of  red  argillaceous  sandstone,  with  thin  layers  of  fibrous  j 
sum.     On  the  Ip ft  bank,  the  ridge  is  composed  entirely  of  siliceous  puddis 
stone,  the  pebbles  in  the  numerous  strata  increasing  in  size  from  tne  topi 
the  bottom,  where  they  are  as  large  as  a  man's  head.     So  far  as  I  was  al 
to  detemiine,  these  strata  incline  to  the  northeost,  with  a  dip  of  about  l( 
This  puddingslone  or  conglomerate  formation  I  was  enabled  to  trace  throul 
an  extended  range  of  country,  from  a  few  miles  east  of  the  meridian  of  Ff 
Laramie  to  where  I  found  it  superposed  on  the  granite  of  the  Rocky  Mc 
tains,  in  longitude  109*^  3(y.     From  its  appearance,  the  main  chain  of  i 
Laramie  mountain  is  composed  of  this  ruck ;  and  in  a  number  of  pla 
I  found  isolated  hills,  which  served  to  mark  a  fonner  level,  which  had 
probably  swept  away. 

These  conglomerates  are  very  friable  and  easily  decomposed ;  and  I 
inclined  to  think  this  formation  is  the  source  troni  which  was  derived 
great  deposite  of  sand  and  gravel  which  forms  the  surface  rock  of  the  pr 
country  west  of  the  Mississippi. 

Crossing  the  ridge  of  red  sandstone,  and  traversing  the  little  prairie  wh 
lies  to  the  soulhwurd  of  it,  we  made  in  the  afternoon  an  excursion  to  a 
which  we  have  called  the  Hot  Spring  Gate.    This  place  hns  much  the  ap() 
ance  of  a  gale,  by  which  the  Platte  passes  through  a  ridge  composed  i 
white  nnd  calcareous  sandstone.     The  length  of  liic  paa<!asre   ia  about 
hundred  yards,  with  a  smooth  green  prairie  on  either  side.     Through  I 


if  north  and  lonil 
B  rrd  JoriiiRlion  pr 
i  h«re  •  pretty  lit 
L>d  with  colionw( 
e  chamctor,  and 
wtimea  eight  incli 

made  our  encai 
■nimali  fared  wd 
I  i«  made  up  of  | 
jflonierale  of  coor 
larked  in  the  ban 

clay  ^nd  land 
li  in  longitude  U 

rning,  we  reached! 
lere  were  the 

Mr.  Carson,  wi 
rhich  liBM  (he  cha 
jiices  above,  thot 
lerinin  of  obtniniil 
d  hilli  lo  the  Swi 
ded  the  river  to 
vered  with  a  lui 
ily  interesting.  Iii 
rugged  hills,  whij 

spurs  three  or  fa 
riilotu  or  meadoi 
baf  ing  many  pla 
^0  of  these  tiig 
right  bank  is 
yera  of  fibrous  i 
f  siliceous  pudd 
size  from  the  topi 
■lo  fur  as  I  was  al 

dip  of  about  l( 
>led  to  trace  throu 
he  meridian  of  F| 
f  the  Rocky  Mc 

main  chain  of  i 
L  number  of  pla 
el,  which  had  b 

nposed;  and  I 
;h  was  derived 
e  rock  of  the  pn 

s  little  prairie  wh 
excursion  to  a 
ns  much  the  app 
\dge  composed 
»sa<re  JB  about 
idc.     Through  i 


n 


A3 


[243] 


! 


\Aii(t,  ihtt  ■Irciun  Aow4  with  n  quirt  ciirr«>n(,  iintirukfit  hy  nny  rnpiil,  and  k 
lalHiiit  Mveiilv  ynrtla  wiiin  iHilwrm  ihr  wiiila,  whiiii  riMi  |>««r|iriiiliriilnrly  frum 
iliM  wnlar.  To  llint  uii  Ihn  ritflit  l»unk,  which  i»  iha  luwrr,  ihn  iMiiumalM 
Knvti  A  h«iKh(  of  lhri*n  hun<iritil  nml  aixiy  fral.  AiiiiAxrtl  tn  a  virw  of  ihM 
|iiar«%  which  will  Iw  mori)  |Mtriicuhuly  dMcrib«il  hurrafler,  oa  wa  |iiiiMd 
itiriiiiKh  il  UII  our  reiurii. 

Wo  Mw  Ufttt  iiiiinertnu  hi>riU  of  mouninin  «hA«p,nnd  frt>t\u»n\\y  hnard  iha 
tnllry  of  muling  Hionnii  whith  n<'rom|Miiird  \\mt  fn\m\  lUnnriii  drwii  lh« 
iteiip,hilk  Thw  wiuilhnrtrMi  pliirA  ni  which  wn  hnd  killfld  any  of  ihmfl  nnininls; 
mid,  ill  conHMjuanca  of  thin  cirriiniiKniicn,  nml  of  ihn  idMiodAiicff  of  theM 
ulicrp  or  ((oni«(for  (hnv  arn  callfd  liy  nnchnaiiifl),Wfl|{nvflioour  eiicnin|Hneiit 
by  the  iiunin  of  Omni  IrIiukI.  Thrir  rtfwh  in  much  eiKccined  by  ihn  huii(>  t, 
mid  lina  xety  much  lh«  flnvor  of  ili«  Allr^ny  M(Minini>  iheep.  I  linve  fr  . 
i|iieiitly  «4ifln  (he  horna  of  thin  unimul  three  feet  luii(i  n  d  m  eiileeii  incl^M 
in  circumference  nt  the  bn»»,  wriKhini;  eleven  puuuda.  Out  (>  o  or  *  tree  of 
ihran  were  killrd  by  our  |Miiiy  iii  thia  place,  and  of  tlican  tlr  liorr  were 
iinnli.  The  uae  of  these  huriia  iN>em  to  be  to  protect  ihe  aiiiiiinl  a  heud^ 
in  piichinff  down  prttcipicea  to  avoid  punuini;  wolvea — (heir  oi ./  anfct^ 
beiri^  in  plncee  where  they  can  not  be  followed.  The  bonea  nru  very  atroni? 
mid  Holid,  the  marrow  occupyiiiff  but  n  very  aiiiall  portion  of  the  iMine  in  .  «s 
leg,  oliout  the  ihickneae  of  a  rye  Diriiw.  'rhe  huir  it  uhort,  reaerhling  (be 
wiitinr  color  of  our  common  deer,  which  it  nenrly  npproaclica  it  *  a  and 
appearance.  I<]xcept  in  ihn  horiia,  it  boa  no  reaemblunce  who!  ver  >  the 
ont.  The  lon^iiudo  of  this  place,  reautting  from  chronoinvier  and  lunar 
iainncea,  and  nn  occultalion  of  •  Arioiia  ia  lOZ'^  37'  27",  and  the  latitude 
A2^  3',V  \i7".  One  of  our  horaos,  which  had  given  out,  we  left  to  receive 
strength  on  the  laland,  intending  to  take  her,  perhana,  on  our  return. 

Jttly  31. — Thia  morning  we  left  the  courae  of  tfie  IMatte  to  cr  v  over  lo 
(he  Sweet  VVaier.  Our  way  for  n  few  milea  lay  up  the  anndy  bed  of  a  dry 
reek,  in  which  I  found  several  mtereating  plania.  Leaving  thia  wo  wound 
ur  way  to  the  summit  of  (he  hilla,  of  which  (he  peaka  are  here  eight  hun- 
red  feet  above  the  Platte,  bare  ond  rocky.  A  long  and  gradual  alope  led 
rom  ihcae  hilla  lo  the  Sweet  Water,  which  we  reached  in  fifteen  miles  from 
loat  lalnnd.  I  made  an  early  encampment  here,  in  order  lo  give  the  hun- 
era  an  opportunity  to  procure  a  8iipply  from  aeverul  .  <:-'*n  of  buflfalo,  which 
uade  their  appearance  in  (he  valley  near  by.  The  t .  '  :i  here  ia  about  sixty 
^eet  wide,  and  at  (his  time  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  deep,  with  a  very  mod* 
rate  current. 

The  adjoining  prairies  are  sandy  ;  but  the  imr^  dinte  river  bottom  is  a  good 
oil,  whicn  afforded  an  abundance  of  soft  greer  ,nui8  to  our  horses,  and  wnere 
found  u  variety  of  interesting  plants,  wli.ci.  made  their  appearance  for  the 
iirsi  time.  A  rain  to-night  rnuile  it  unpleasantly  cold  -,  and  there  was  no  tree 
ere  to  enable  us  lo  pitch  our  8in;,!e  lent,  the  poles  of  which  had  been  left 
t  Cache  camp.  We  had,  therefore,  no  shelter  except  what  was  (o  be  found 
he  cover  of  tlie  absinthe  bushes,  which  grow  in  many  thick  patches,  one  or 
wo  ami  sometimes  three  feet  high. 

AufTuat  1. — The  hunters  went  ahead  this  morning,  as  bnfTalo  appeared 
olerably  abundant,  and  I  was  desirous  to  secure  a  small  stock  of  provisions, 
nd  we  moved  about  seven  mites  up  the  valley,  and  encamped  one  mile 
elow  Ilock  Independence.  This  is  an  isolated  granite  rock,  about  six 
undied  and  fifty  yards  long,  and  forty  in  height.  Bxcept  in  a  depression 
f  the  sutiimit,  where  a  little  soil  supports  a  scanty  growth  of  shrubs,  with  a 


!   i1 


[243]  54 

solitary  dwnrf  |»ine,  it  is  entirely  bare.  Everywhere  within  six  or  eight 
feet  of  the  ground,  where  the  surface  is  sufliciently  tmooth,  and  in  some 
places  sixty  or  eigiity  feet  above,  the  rock  is  inscribed  with  the  names  of 
travellers.  Many  a  name  fumous  in  the  history  of  this  country,  and  some 
well-known  to  science,  are  to  be  found  mixed  among  those  of  the  traders 
and  of  travellers  for  pleasure  and  curiosity,  and  of  missionaries  among  the 
Mivages.  Some  of  these  have  been  washed  away  by  the  lain,  but  the  greater 
number  arc  still  very  legible.  The  position  of  this  rock  is  in  longitude 
107°  66',  latitude  i'^y  2U'  36".  We  remained  at  our  camp  of  Aujifust  Ut 
until  noon  of  the  next  day,'occupied  in  drying  meat.  By  observation,  the 
longitude  of  the  place  is  107°  66^  latitude  42°  29"  66". 

August  2. — Five  miles  above  Rock  Independence  we  came  to  a  place 
called  the  Devil's  Gale,  where  the  Sweet  Water  cuts  through  the  point  of 
a  granite  ridge.  The  length  of  the  passage  is  about  three  hundred  yards, 
and  the  width  thirty-live  yards.  The  walls  of  ruck  are  vertical,  and  about 
four  hundred  feet  in  height ;  und  the  stream  in  the  gate  is  almost  entirely 
choked  up  by  masses  which  have  follen  from  above.  In  the  wall,  on  the 
right  bank,  is  a  dyke  of  tmp  rock,  cutting  through  a  fmegraincd  gray 
granite.  Near  the  point  of  this  ridge  crop  out  some  strata  of  the  valley 
formation,  consisting  of  grayish  micaceous  sandstone,  and  fine  grained 
conglomerate,  ond  wu  .  We  encamped  eight  miles  above  the  Devil's 
Gate,  of  which  a  view  is  given  in  the  annexed  plate.  1'here  was  no  tim- 
ber of  any  kind  on  the  river,  but  good  fires  were  made  of  drift  wood,  aided 
by  the  bois  de  vache. 

We  hud  to  night  no  shelter  from  the  rain,  which  commenced  with  squalls 
of  wind  about  sunset.  The  country  here  ia  exceedingly  picturesque.  On 
cither  side  of  the  valley,  which  is  four  or  five  miles  broad,  the  mountains 
rise  to  the  height  of  twelve  and  fifteen  hundred,  or  two  thousand  feet.  On 
the  south  side,  the  range  appears  to  be  timbered,  and  to-night  is  luminous  I 
with  fires,  probably  the  work  of  the  Indiatis,  who  have  just  passed  through 
the  valley.  On  the  north,  broken  and  granite  masses  rise  abruptly  from  the 
|E[reen  sward  of  the  river,  terminating  in  a  line  of  broken  summits.  Except 
in  the  crevices  of  the  rock,  and  here  ond  there  on  a  ledge  or  bench  of  the  [ 
mountain,  where  a  few  hardy  pines  have  clustered  together,  these  are  per- 
fectly bare  and  destitute  of  vegetation. 

Among  these  masses,  where  there  are  sometimes  isolated  hills  and  ridges,  | 
green  valleys  open  in  upon  the  river,  which  sweeps  the  base  of  these  moun- 
tains for  thirty  six  miles.  Everywhere  its  deep  verdure  and  profusion  of  I 
beautiful  flowers  is  in  pleasing  contrast  with  the  sterile  grandeur  of  the) 
rock,  and  the  barrenness  of  the  sandy  plain,  which,  from  the  right  bank  "fl 
the  river  sweeps  up  to  the  mountain  range  that  forms  its  southerii  boundary.  [ 
The  great  evaporation  on  the  sandy  soil  of  this  elevated  plain,  and  thej 
saline  efflorescences  which  whiten  the  ground,  and  shine  like  lakes  reflect- 
ing the  sun,  make  a  soil  wholly  unfit  for  cultivation. 

Ausrust  3. — We  were  early  on  the  road  the  next  morning,  travelling  along  j 
the  upland  part  of  the  valley,  which  is  overgrown  with  artemisia.  Scat- 
tered about  on  the  plain  are  occasional  small  isolated  hills.  One  of  these  j 
which  I  examined,  about  fifty  feet  high,  consisted  of  white  clay  and  marl, 
in  nearly  horizontal  strata.  Several  bands  of  buffalo  made  their  appearance 
to-day,  with  herds  of  antelope ;  and  a  grizzly  bear — the  only  one  we  encoun- 
tered during  the  journey — was  seen  scrambling  up  among  the  rocks.  As 
we  passed  over  a  slight  rise  near  the  river,  we  caught  the  first  view  of  the 


bin  six  or  eight 
Dth,  and  in  some 
ith  the  names  of 
tuntry,  and  some 
ise  of  the  traders 
inries  among  the 
n,  but  the  greater 
:  is  in  longitude 
ip  of  August  Ut 
'  observation,  the 

come  to  a  place 
High  the  point  of 
9  hundred  yards, 
iriical,  and  about 
i  almost  entirely 

the  wall,  on  the 
inegraincd  gray 
niR  of  the  valley 

and  finegrained 
bove  the  Devil's 
here  was  no  tim- 
drift  wood,  aided 

iced  with  squalls 
icturesqiie.  On 
d,  the  mountains 
lusand  feet.  On 
ight  is  luminous  I 
t  passed  through 
bruptly  from  the 
iinmits.  Except 
or  bench  of  the  | 
er,  these  are  per- 

hills  and  ridges,  { 
3  of  these  moun- 
md  profusion  of  i 
rrnndeur  of  the  f 
le  right  bank  <>f  | 
therri  boundary. " 
plain,  and  the  j 
ce  lakes  reflect- 1 

travelling  along! 

'temisia.  Scat- 
One  of  these  | 
clay  and  marl,  I 
leir  appearance  | 
)ne  we  encoun- 
the  rocks.  As  I 
ist  view  of  the 


WindR 
to  be  a 
ment  th 
tions  of 
Swilzerli 
amidst  t) 
nal  snoM 
where  v 
I  onmerou 
garden, 
dians,  be( 
I  travel ; 

Atiffusi 
I  climbed 
rocks  WO! 
of  the 
proceed 
which  tni 
consisting 
struck  it  { 
I  Domical  o 
Auffuat 
I  ably  cold, 
bad  that  m 
island,  abc 
a  dense  gr 
timber  tSCc 
I  the  sun  bn 
I  P.  M.,  was 
I  northwest. 
lit)  the  neig 
jTaliey  forn 
Ion  the  rigl 
]  eighty  feet 
Isist  of  a  fi 


M 


[248] 


Wind  River  mountains,  appenring  at  this  distance  of  about  seventy  miles, 
to  be  a  low  and  dark  mountainous  ridge.  The  view  dissipated  in  a  mo- 
ment the  pictures  which  had  bee  >  cnuted  in  our  minds,  by  many  descrip- 
tions of  travellers,  who  have  compared  these  mountains  to  the  Alps  m 
Switzerland  ;  and  speak  of  the  glittering  peaks  which  rise  in  icy  majesty 
amidst  the  eternal  glaciers  nine  or  ten  thousand  feet  into  the  region  of  eter- 
nal snows.  The  nakedness  of  the  river  was  relieved  by  groves  of  willows, 
where  we  encamped  at  night,  after  a  march  of  twenty-six  miles;  and 
numerous  bright  colored  flowers  had' made  the  river  bottom  look  gay  as  a 
nrden.  We  found  here  a  horse,  which  had  been  abandoned  by  the  In- 
I  dians,  because  his  hoofs  had  been  so  much  worn  that  he  was  unable  to 
travel ;  aid  during  the  night,  a  dog  came  into  the  camp. 

Aitffitst  4. — Our  camp  was  at  the  foot  of  the  Granite  mountains,  which  we 
I  climbed  this  morning  to  toke  some  barometrical  heights ;  and  here  among  the 
rocks  was  seen  the  nrst  magpie.  On  our  return  we  saw  one  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Platte  river.  Wo  left  here  one  of  our  horses,  which  was  unable  to 
proceed  further.  A  few  miles  from  the  encampment  we  left  the  tiver, 
which  makes  a  bend  to  the  south,  and  traversiiig  an  undulating  country, 
I  consisting  of  a  grayish  micaceous  sandstone  and  fine-grained  conglomerates, 
struck  it  again,  and  encamped  after  a  journey  of  twenty-five  miles.  Astro • 
nomical  observations  placed  us  in  latitude  A2°  32'  30". 

August  6. — The  mo'.ning  was  dark,  with  a  driving  rnin,  and  disagree* 

I  ably  coli.    We  continued  our  route  as  usual,  but  the  weather  became  so 

I  bad  that  we  were  ^lad  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  shelter  offered  by  a  small 

island,  about  ten  miles  above  our  last  encampment,  which  was  covered  with 

a  dense  growth  of  willows.    There  was  fine  grass  for  our  animals,  and  the 

timber  afforded  us  comfortable  protection  and  good  fires.    In  the  afternoon 

the  sun  broke  through  the  clouds  for  a  short  time,  and  the  barometer  at  5 

P.  M.,  was  at  23.713,  the  thermometer  60°,  with  the  wind  strong  from  the 

northwest.    We  availed  ourselves  of  the  fine  weather  to  make  excursions 

in  the  neighborhood.    The  river,  at  this  place,  is  bordered  by  hills  of  the 

iTalley  formation.    They  are  of  moderate  height,  one  of  the  highest  peaks 

on  the  right  bank  being,  according  to  the  Barometer,  one  hundred  end 

leighty  feet  above  the  river.    On  the  left  bank  they  are  higher.    They  con- 

Isist  of  a  fine  white  clayey  sandstone,  a  white  calcareous  sandstone,  and 

|coarse  sandstone  or  pudding-stone. 

August  6. — It  continued  steadily  raining  all  the  day  ;  but,  noiwithstand- 

ig,  we  left  our  encampment  in  the  afternoon.  Our  animals  had  been 
Imuch  refreshed  by  their  repose,  and  an  abundance  of  rich,  soft  grass,  which 
Ihad  been  much  improved  by  the  rains.  In  about  three  miles,  we  reached 
Ithe  entrance  of  &  kariT/on,  where  the  Sweet  Water  issues  upon  the  more 
lopen  valley  we  had  passed  over.  Immediately  at  the  entrance,  and  super- 
limposed  directly  upon  the  granite,  are  strata  of  compact,  calcareous  sand- 
Istone  and  chert,  alternnting  with  fine  white  and  reddish  white,  and  fine 
[gray  and  red  sandstones.  These  strata  dip  to  the  eastward  at  an  angle  of 
jabout  18°,  and  form  the  western  limit  of  the  sand  and  limestone  forma- 
Itions,  on  the  line  of  our  route.  Here  we  entered  among  the  primitive 
7ocks.  The  usual  road  passes  to  the  right  of  this  place,  but  we  wound,  or 
^rather  scrambled,  our  way  up  the  narrow  valley  for  several  hours.  Wild- 
jiiess  and  disorder  were  the  character  of  this  scenery.  The  river  had  been 
jswollen  by  the  late  rains,  and  came  rushing  through  with  an  impetuous 
Icurreiit,  three  or  four  feet  deep,  and  generally  twenty  yards  broad.     The 


it  a 


[248] 


t^ 


VAlley  was  sometimes  the  breadth  of  tho  stream,  and  sometimes  opened 
into  h'ttic  green  meadows,  sixty  yards  wide,  with  open  groves  of  aspen. 
The  stream  was  bordered  throughout  with  aspen,  beech,  and  willow  ;  and 
tall  pines  grew  on  the  sides  and'summits  of  the  crags.    On  both  sides,  the 

{granite  rocks  rose  precipitously  to  the  height  of  tfirce  hundred  and  five 
lundred  feet,  terminating  in  jogged  and  broken  pointed  peaks ;  and  frag* 
inenta  of  fallen  rock  lay  piled  up  at  the  foot  of  the  precipices.  Gneiss, 
mica  slate,  and  a  white  granite,  were  among  the  vorieties  1  noticed.  Here 
were  many  old  traces  of  beaver  on  the  stream,  remnants  of  dams,  near 
which  were  lying  trees,  which  they  had  cut  down,  one  and  two  feet  ia 
diameter.  The  nills  entirely  shut  up  the  river  at  the  end  of  about  five 
miles,  and  we  turned  up  a  ravine  that  led  to  a  high  pruirio,  which  seemed 
to  be  the  general  level  of  the  country.  Hence,  to  the  summit  of  the  ridge, 
there  is  a  regular  and  very  gradual  rise.  Blocks  of  granite  were  piled  up 
at  the  heads  of  the  ravines,  and  small  bare  knolls  of  mica  slate  and  milky 
quartz  protruded  at  frequent  intervals  on  the  prairie,  which  was  whitened 
in  occasional  spots  with  small  salt  lakes  where  the  water  had  evaporated, 
and  left  the  bea  covered  with  a  shining  incrustation  of  salt.  The  evening 
was  very  cold,  a  northwest  wind  driving  a  fine  rain  in  our  faces,  and  at 
nightfall  we  descended  to  a  little  stream  on  which  we  encamped,  about 
two  miles  from  the  Sw^  i  Water.  Here  had  recently  been  a  very  large 
camp  of  Snake  and  Crow  Indians,  and  some  large  poles  lying  about  afibrd* 
cd  the  means  of  pitching  a  tent,  and  making  other  places  of  shelter.  Our 
fires  to-night  were  made  principally  of  the  dry  branches  of  the  ariemisia, 
whicli  covered  the  slopes.  Tt  burns  quickly,  with  a  clear  oily  flame,  and 
makes  a  hot  fire.  The  hills  here  are  composed,  of  hard,  compact  mica 
slate,  with  veins  of  quartz. 

Augiut  7. — We  left  our  encampment  with  the  rising  sun.  As  we  rose 
from  the  bed  of  the  creek,  the  snow  line  of  the  mountains  stretched  grandly 
before  us,  the  while  peaks  glittering  in  the  sun.  They  hud  been  hidden 
in  the  dark  weather  of  the  last  few  days,  and  it  had  been  snowinif  on  them, 
while  it  rained  in  the  plains.  We  crossed  a  ridge,  and  again  stiuck  the 
Sweet  Water ;  here,  a  beautiful  swift  stream,  with  a  more  open  valley, 
timbered  with  beech  and  cottonwood.  It  now  began  to  lose  itself  in  the 
many  sn.all  forks  which  make  its  head,  and  we  continued  up  the  main 
stream  until  near  noon,  when  we  left  it  a  few  miles  to  make  our  noon  halt 
on  a  small  creek  among  the  hills,  from  which  the  stream  issues  by  a  small 
opening.  Within  was  a  beautiful  grassy  spot,  covered  with  an  open  grove 
of  large  beech  trees,  among  which  I  found  several  plants  that  I  had  not 
previously  seen. 

The  afternoon  was  cloudy,  with  squalls  of  rain ;  but  the  weather  be- 
came fine  at  sunset,  when  we  again  encamped  on  the  Sweet  Water,  within 
a  few  miles  of  the  South  Pass.  The  country,  over  which  we  have  passed 
to-day,  consists  principally  of  the  compact  mica  slate,  which  crops  out  on 
all  the  ridges,  making  the  uplands  very  rocky  and  slaty.  In  the  escarp- 
ments which  border  the  creeks,  it  is  seen  alternating  with  a  light  colored 
granite,  at  an  inclination  of  45° ;  the  beds  varying  in  thickness  from  two 
or  three  feet  to  six  or  eight  hundred.  At  a  distance,  the  graniie  frequently 
has  the  appearance  of  irregular  lumps  of  clay,  hardened  by  exposure.  A 
variety  of  asters  may  now  be  numbered  among  the  characteristic  plants, 
and  the  artemisia  continues  in  full  glory;  but  cacti  have  become  rare,  and 
mosses  begin  to  dispute  the  hills  with  them.     The  evening  was  damp  and 


57 


[248] 


unpleaaant,  the  thermometer  at  10  o'clock  bfcin?  at  36^,  and  the  grass  wet 
with  a  heavy  dew.  Our  astronomical  observHtions  placed  this  encamp- 
ment in  longitude  109°  51'  29",  and  latitude  42°  27'  16"'. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  resumed  our  journey,  the  weather  still  cloudy, 
with  occasional  rain.  Our  general  course  was  west,  as  I  hnd  determined 
to  cross  the  dividing  ridge  by  a  bridle  path  among  the  broken  country 
more  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  return  by  the  wagon 
road  two  and  a  half  miles  to  the  south  of  the  point  where  the  trail  crosses. 

About  six  miles  from  our  encampment  brought  us  to  the  summit.  The 
ascent  had  been  so  gradual  that,  with  all  the  intimate  knowledge  possessed 
by  Carson,  who  had  made  this  country  his  home  for  seventeen  years,  we  were 
obliged  to  watch  very  closely  to  find  the  place  ot  which  we  had  reached  the 
culminating  point.  This  was  between  too  low  hills,  rising  on  either  hand 
tifty  or  sixty  feet.  When  I  looked  back  at  them  from  the  foot  of  the  imme- 
diate slope  on  the  western  plain,  their  summits  appeared  to  be  about  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet  above.  From  the  impression  on  my  mind  at  this  time, 
and  subsequently  on  our  return,  I  should  compare  the  elevation  which  we 
surmounted  immediately  at  the  pass,  to  the  ascent  of  the  Capitol  hill  from 
(he  avenue,  at  Washington.  It  is  difficult  for  me  to  fix  positively  the  breadth 
of  this  pass.  From  the  broken  ground  where  it  commences,  at  the  foot  of 
the  Wind  River  chain,  the  view  to  the  southeast  is  over  a  chamjUkign  coun- 
try, broken,  at  the  distance  of  nineteen  miles,  by  the  Table  Rock ;  which, 
with  the  other  isolated  hills  in  its  vicinity,  seems  to  stand  on  a  comparative 
plain.  This  I  judged  to  be  its  termination,  the  ridge  recovering  its  rugged 
character  with  the  Table  Rock.  It  will  be  seen  tbut  it  in  no  manner  re- 
sembles the  places  to  which  the  term  is  commonly  applied — nothing  of  the 
goige-like  character  and  winding  oscents  of  the  Allegany  passes  in  America, 
nothing  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard  and  Simplon  passes  in  Eucope.  Approach- 
ing it  from  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  a  sandy  plain,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  long,  conducts,  by  a  gradual  and  regular  ascent,  to  the  summit, 
about  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea ;  and  the  traveller,  without  being 
reminded  of  any  change  by  toilsome  ascents,  suddenly  finds  himself  on  the 
waters  which  flow  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  By  the  route  we  had  travelled,  the 
distance  from  Fort  Laramie  is  three  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  or  nine  bun* 
dred  and  fifty  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas. 

Continuing  our  march,  we  reached,  in  eight  miles  from  the  pass,  the  Little 
Sandy,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Colorado,  or  Green  river  of  the  Gulf  of 
California.  The  weather  had  grown  fine  during  the  morning,  and  we  re- 
mained here  the  rest  of  the  day,  to  dry  our  baggage  and  take  some  astronomi- 
cal observations.  The  stream  was  about  forty  feet  wide,  and  two  or  three 
deep,  with  clear  water  and  a  full  swift  current,  over  a  sandy  bed.  It  was 
limbered  with  a  growth  of  low,  bushy  and  dense  willows,  among  which  were 
little  verdant  spots,  which  gave  our  animals  fine  grass,  and  where  I  found  a 
number  of  interesting  plants.  Among  the  neighboring  hills  I  noticed  frag- 
ments of  granite  containing  magnetic  iron.  Longitude  of  the  camp  was 
110°  07'  46",  latitude  42°  27'  34". 

August  9. — We  made  our  noon  halt  to  day  on  Big  Sandy,  another 
tributary  of  Green  river.  The  face  of  the  country  traversed  was  of  a  brown 
sand  of  granite  materials,  the  detritus  of  the  neighboring  mountains.  Strata 
of  the  milky  quartz  cropped  out,  and  blocks  of  granite  were  scattered  about 
containing  magnetic  iron.  On  Sandy  creek  the  formation  was  of  parti- 
colored sand,  exhibited  in  escarpments  fifty  to  eighty  feet  high.    In  the 


1848] 


08 


•flemoon  we  had  a  Mvere  itorm  of  hail,  and  encamped  at  sunset  on  the 
fint  New  Fork.  Within  the  space  of  a  few  miles  ihc  Wind  mouniaius 
•upply  a  number  of  tributaries  taOreen  river,  which  are  ail  called  the  New 
Forks.  Near  our  camp  were  two  remarkable  isolated  hills,  one  of  them 
•ufficiently  larfi;e  to  merit  the  name  of  mountain.  They  ore  called  the  Two 
Buttes,  and  will  serve  to  identify  the  place  of  our  encampment,  which  the 
observations  of  the  evening  placed  in  longitude  110°  29'  17",  and  latitude 
A29  i^if  46".  On  the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  opposite  to  the  large  hill, 
the  strata  which  are  displayed  consist  of  decomposing  granite,  which  sup* 
plies  the  brown  sand  of  which  the  faf:e  of  the  country  is  composed  to  a  con* 
•ideroble  depth. 

August  10. — The  air  at  sunrise  is  clear  and'  pure,  and  the  morning  ex* 
iremeTy  cold,  but  beautiful.  A  lofty  snow  peak  of  the  mountain  is  glittering 
in  the  first  ruys  of  the  sun,  which  has  not  yet  reached  us.  The  long  mountain 
wall  to  the  east  rising  two  thousand  feet  abruptly  from  the  plain,  behind 
which  we  see  the  peaks,  is  still  dark,  and  cuts  cleor  ogainst  the  glowing 
sky.  A  fog,  just  risen  from  the  river,  lies  along  the  base  of  the  mountain. 
A  little  before  sunrise  the  thermometer  was  at  36°,  and  at  sunrise  33°. 
Water  froze  last  night,  and  fires  are  very  comfortable.  The  scenery  becomes 
hourly  more  interesting  and  grand,  and  the  view  here  is  truly  magnificent; 
but,  indeed,  it  needs  something  to  repay  the  long  prairie  journey  of  a 
thousand  miles.  The  sun  has  just  shot  above  the  wall,  and  makes  a  mogi- 
cal  change.  The  whole  valley  is  glowing  and  bright,  and  all  the  moun- 
tain peaks  are  gleaming  liko  silver.  Though  these  snow  mountoins  are 
Dot  the  Alps,  they  have  tneir  own  character  of  grandeur  and  mngnifiicence, 
and  will  doubtless  find  pens  and  pencils  to  do  them  justice.  In  the  scene 
before  us  we  feel  how  much  wood  improves  a  view.  The  pines  on  the 
mountain  seemed  to  give  it  much  additional  beauty.  I  was  agreeably  dis- 
appointed  in  the  character  of  the  streams  on  this  side  of  the  ridge.  Instead 
of  the  creeks  which  description  had  led  me  to  expect,  I  find  bold  broad 
streams,  with  three  or  four  feet  water  and  a  rapid  current.  The  fork  on 
which  we  are  encamped  is  upwards  of  a  hundred  feet  wide,  timbered  with 
groves  pr  thickets  of  the  low  willow.  We  were  now  approaching  the  lofti- 
est part  of  the  Wind  River  chain,  and  I  lefl  the  valley  a  few  miles  from  our 
encampment,  intending  to  penetrate  the  mountains  as  far  as  possible  with 
the  whole  party.  We  were  soon  involved  in  very  broken  ground,  among 
long  ridges  covered  with  fragments  of  granite.  Winding  our  way  up  a 
long  ravine,  we  came  unexpectedly  in  view  of  a  most  beautiful  lake,  set 
like  a  gem  in  the  mountains.  The  sheet  of  water  lay  transversely  across 
the  dii-ection  we  had  been  pursuing;  and,  descending  the  steep,  rocky 
ridge,  where  it  was  necessary  to  lead  our  horses,  we  followed  its  banks  to 
the  southern  extremity.  Here  a  view  of  the  utmost  magnificence  and 
grandeur  hurst  upon  our  eyes.  With  nothing  between  us  and  their  feet 
to  lessen  the  effect  of  the  whole  height,  a  grand  bed  of  snow-capped  moun- 
tains rose  before  us,  pile  upon  pile,  glowing  in  the  bright  light  of  an  Au- 
gust day.  Immediately  below  them  lay  the  lake  between  two  ridges 
covered  with  dark  pines,  which  swept  down  from  the  main  chain  to  the 
spot  where  we  siood.  Here,  where  the  lake  glittered  in  the  open  sunlight, 
its  banks  of  yellow  sand  and  the  light  foliage  of  aspen  groves  contrasted 
well  with  the  gloomy  pinen.  "  Never  before,"  said  Mr.  Prenss,  "  in  this 
country  or  in  Europe,  have  1  seen  such  magnificent,  grand  rocks."  I  wns 
so  much  pleased  with  the  beauty  of  the  place  that  I  dete.^iined  to  make 


59 


[248] 


the  m(tin  camp  here,  where  our  animals  would  find  good  pasturage,  and 
explore  the  mountains  with  a  small  party  of  men.  Proceeding  a  little  fur- 
ther, we  came  suddenly  upon  the  outlet  of  the  lake  where  it  found  its  way 
through  a  narrow  pussav*^  l)ctween  low  hills.  Dark  pines  which  overhune 
the  stream  and  masses  of  rock  where  the  water  foamed  along  gave  it  much 
romantic  buauty.  Where  we  crossed,  which  was  immediately  at  the  outlet, 
it  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  so  deep  that  with  difficulty  we 
were  able  to  ford  it.  Its  bed  was  an  accumulation  of  rocks,  boulders,  and 
broad  slabs,  and  largo  angular  fragments,  omong  which  the  animals  fell 
repeatedly. 

The  current  was  very  swift,  nnd  the  water  cold  and  of  a  crystal  purity. 
In  crossing  this  stream,  I  met  with  a  great  misfortune  in  having  ray  barom- 
eter broken.  It  was  the  only  one ;  a  great  part  of  the  interest  of  the  jour- 
ney for  me  was  in  the  exploration  of  these  mountains,  of  which  so  much 
had  been  said  that  was  doubtful  and  contradictory ;  and  now  their  snowy 
peaks  rose  mnjesticu.iy  before  me,  and  the  only  meai.s  of  giving  them  an- 
I  ilieiiti<Milly  to  science,  the  object  of  my  anxious  solicitude  by  night  and  day, 
was  destroyed.  We  had  brought  this  barometer  in  safety  a  thousand  miles, 
land  broke  it  almost  among  the  snow  of  the  mountains.  The  loss  was  felt 
by  the  whole  camp — all  had  seen  my  anxiety,  and  aided  me  in  preserving 
it ;  the  height  of  these  mountains,  considered  by  the  hunters  and  traders- 
the  highest  in  the  whole  range,  had  been  a  theme  of  constant  discussion 
among  them;  and  all  had  looked  forward  with  pleasure  to  the  moment 
when  the  instrument,  which  they  believed  to  be  true  as  the  sun,  should 
stand  upon  the  summits  and  decide  their  disputes.  Their  grief  was  only 
I  inferior  to  my  own. 

This  lake  m  about  three  miles  long,  and  of  very  irregular  width,  and 

I  apparently  great  depth,  and  is  the  head  water  of  the  third  New  Fork,  a 
tributary  to  Green  river,  the  Colorado  of  the  West.  On  the  map  and  in  the 
narrative  I. have  called  it  Mountain  lake.  I  encamped  on  the  north  side,. 
about  thrse  hundred  and  fifty  yards  from  the  outlet.  This  was  the  most 
western  point  at  which  I  obtained  astronomical  observations,  by  which  this 
place,  called  Bernier's  encampment,  is  made  in  11U°  '37'  25"  west  longitude 
from  Greenwich,  and  latitude  i2°  49'  49".  The  mountain  peaks,  as  Inid 
down,  were  fixed  by  bearings  from  this  and  i>ther  astronomical  points.    We 

Ihud  no  other  compass  than  the  small  ones  used  in  sketching  the  country  ; 

but  from  an  azimuth,  in  which  one  of  them  was  used,  the  variation  of  the 
Icompuss  is  18°  east.  The  correction  made  in  our  field  work  by  the  astro- 
|notnical  observations  indicates  that  this  is  a  very  correct  observation. 

As  soon  as  the  camp  was  formed,  I  set  about  endeavoring  to  repair  my 
jbarometer.  As  I  have  already  said,  this  was  a  standard  cistern-barometer, 
lof  Troughton's  construction.  The  glass  cistern  had  been  broken  about 
Imidvvay  ;  but  as  the  instrument  had  been  kept  in  a  proper  position,  no  air 
■had  found  its  way  into  the  tube,  the  end  of  which  haa  always  remained 

covered.  I  had  with  me  a  number  of  vials  of  toleiably  thick  glass,  some 
lof  which  were  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  cistern,  and  1  spent  the  day  in 

slowly  working  on  these,  endeavoring  to  cut  them  of  the  requisite  length  ; 
Ibut  OS  my  instrument  was  a  very  rough  file,  1  invariably  broke  them.  A 
Igroove  was  cut  fn  one  of  the  trees,  where  the  barometer  was  placed  during 
jihe  night,  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  any  possible  danger,  and  in  the  morning 

I I  commenced  again.    Among  the  powder  horns  in  the  camp,  1  found  one 
which  was  very  transparent,  so  that  its  contents  could  be  almost  as  plainly 


[248] 


I', 


seen  m  through  gliu*.  This  I  boiled,  and  stretchnd  on  a  piece  of  wood  to 
the  roqiiiiite  diamrter,  mid  scrnped  it  very  thin,  in  order  to  incn'aie  to  the 
utmost  its  tranipurencyr.  I  then  socurod  ii  lirmly  in  its  place  on  ihe  instru* 
ment  with  strong  glue,  made  from  a  buffalo,  and  filled  it  with  mercury 
properly  heated.  A  piece  of  skin,  which  had  covered  one  of  the  phials, 
furnished  a  good  pocket,  which  was  well  secured  with  strong  thread  and 
glue,  and  then  the  brass  eover  was  screwed  to  its  place.  The  instrument 
was  left  tome  lime  to  dry,  and  when  I  reversed  it,  a  few  hours  after,  I  had 
the  satisfaction  to  And  it  in  perfect  order ;  its  indications  being  alraut  the 
same  as  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake,  before  it  had  been  broknii.  Our  sue* 
c(«ss  in  this  little  incident  ditfiised  pleosure  throughout  the  camp,  and  we 
immediately  set  obout  our  preparations  for  ascending  the  mouniains. 

As  will  be  seen,  on  reference  to  u  map,  on  this  short  mountuin  chain  are 
the  head  waters  of  four  great  rivers  of  the  continent ;  namely,  the  Colorado, 
Columbia,  Missouri,  and  Platte  rivers.  It  had  been  my  design,  after  hav- 
ing ascended  the  mountains,  to  continue  our  route  on  the  western  side  of 
the  range,  and  crossing  through  a  pass  at  the  northwestern  end  of  the 
chain,  about  thirty  miles  from  our  present  camp,  return  along  the  eastern 
slope,  across  the  heads  of  the  Yellowstone  river,  and  join  on  the  line  to  our 
station  of  August  7,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge.  In  this  w&y,  I 
should  be  enabled  to  include  the  whole  chain,  and  its  numerous  waters,  in 
my  survey;  but  various  considerations  induced  me,  very  reluctantly,  to 
abandon  this  plan. 

I  was  desirous  to  keep  strictly  within  the  scope  of  my  instructions,  and  it 
would  have  required  ten  or  fifteen  additional  days  for  the  accomplishment  of 
this  object;  our  animals  had  become  very  much  worn  out  with  the  length 
of  the  journey ;  game  was  very  scarce ;  and,  though  it  does  not  appear  in 
the  course  of  the  narrative,  as  I  have  avoided  dwelling  upon  trifling  inci« 
dents  not  connected  with  the  objects  of  the  expedition,  the  spirits  of  the  men 
had  been  much  exhausted  by  the  huniships  and  privations  to  which  they 
had  been  subjected.  Our  provisions  had  well  nigh  all  disappeared.  Bread 
had  been  long  out  of  the  question,  and  of  all  our  slock  we  had  remaining 
two  or  three  pounds  of  colfee,  and  a  binall  quantity  of  macaroni,  which  had 
been  husbanded  Aviih  great  care  for  the  mountain  expedition  we  were  about 
to  undertake.  Our  daily  meal  consisted  of  dry  buffalo  meal,  cooked  in  tal- 
low ;  and,  as  we  had  not  dried  this  with  Indian  skill,  part  of  it  was  spoiled ; 
and  what  remained  of  good,  was  as  hard  as  wood,  having  much  the  lasle 
and  appeamnce  of  so  many  pieces  of  bark.  Even  of  this  our  stock  was 
rapidly  diminishing  in  a  camp  which  was  capable  of  consuming  two  buffalo 
in  every  twenty-four  hours.  These  animals  had  entirely  disappeared,  and 
it  was  not  probable  that  we  should  fall  in  with  them  again  until  we  returned 
to  the  Sweet  Water. 

Our  arrangements  for  the  ascent  were  rapidly  completed ;  we  were  in  a 
hostile  country,  which  rendered  the  greatest  vigilance  and  circumspection 
necessary.  The  pass  at  the  north  end  of  the  mountain  was  generally  infest- 
ed by  Blackfeet,  and  immediately  opposite  was  one  of  their  forts,  on  the 
edge  of  a  little  thicket,  two  or  three  hundred  feet  from  our  encampment. 
We  were  posted  in  a  grove  of  beech,  on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  a  few 
hundred  feet  long,  with  a  narrow  prairiUon  on  the  inner  side,  bordered  by 
the  rocky  ridge.  In  the  upper  end  of  this  grove  we  cleared  a  circular  space 
about  forty  feet  in  diameter,  and  with  the  felled  timber  and  interwoven 
branches  surrounded  it  with  a  breastwork  five  feet  in  height.     A  gap  was  left 


«1 


[U»l 


we  were  in  a 


for  a  gale  on  the  inner  tide,  by  which  the  animals  were  to  be  driven  in  and 
secured,  while  the  men  slept  around  the  liiile  work.  It  was  half  hidden  by 
the  rolioge ;  and  gairisoneo  b^  twelve  resfilute  men,  would  have  set  at  deA- 
•nee  any  band  of  savases  which  might  chance  to  discover  them  in  the  inter- 
val of  our  absence.  FiAeen  of  the  best  mules,  with  fourteen  men,  were 
selected  for  the  muunlain  party.  Our  proviHions  consisted  of  dried  meat  for 
two  days,  with  our  liiile  stocic  of  coffee  aiul  some  macaroni.  In  addition  to 
the  barometer  and  a  thermometer,  I  look  with  me  a  sextant  and  sp_, glass, 
and  we  had,  of  course,  our  compasses.  In  charge  of  the  camp  I  ltd  lleni  er, 
one  of  my  most  iruslwonhy  men,  who  possessed  the  most  determined 
courage. 

August  12. — Early  in  the  morning  we  left  the  camp,  fifteen  in  number, 
well  armed  of  course,  and  mounted  on  our  best  mules.  A  pack  animal 
carried  our  provisions,  with  a  coflee-pot  and  ke(tle,and  three  or  four  tin  cupe. 
Kvery  man  had  a  blanket  strapped  over  his  saddle  lo  serve  for  his  bed,  and 
the  instruments  were  carried  by  turns  on  their  backs.  We  entered  directly 
on  rough  and  rocky  ground;  and,  just  after  crossing  the  ridge,  had  the  good 
fortune  to  shoot  an  antelope.  We  heard  the  rour,  and  hud  a  glimpse  of 
a  waterfall  as  we  rode  along ;  and  crossing  in  our  way  two  fine  streams,  trtb- 
tilary  to  the  Colorado,  in  about  two  hours  ride  we  reached  the  top  of  the 
first  row  or  range  of  the  mountains.  Here,  nguin,  h  view  of  the  most  roman- 
tice  beauty  met  our  eyes.  It  seemed  as  if,  from  the  vast  expanse  of  unin- 
terestinj;  prairie  we  had  passed  over,  nature  had  collected  all  her  beauties  to- 
gether in  one  chosen  place.  We  were  overlooking  a  deep  valley,  which 
was  entirely  occupied  by  three  lakes,  and  from  the  brink  the  surrounding 
ridffes  rose  precipitously  five  hundred  and  a  thouHund  feet,  covered  with  the 
dark  green  of  the  balsam  pine,  relieved  on  the  border  of  the  lake  with  the 
light  foliage  of  the  aspen.  They  all  communicated  with  each  other,  and 
the  green  of  the  waters,  common  to  mountain  lakes  of  great  depth,  showed 
that  it  would  be  impossible  to  cross  ihein.  The  surprise  manifested  by  our 
guides  when  these  impassable  obstacles  suddenly  barred  our  progress,  proved 
that  they  were  among  the  hidden  treasures  of  the  place,  unlcnown  even  to 
the  wandering  trappers  of  the  region.  Descending  the  hill,  we  proceeded  to 
make  our  way  along  the  margin  to  the  southern  extremity.  A  narrow  strip 
of  angular  fragments  of  rock,  sometimes  aflforded  a  rough  pathway  for  our 
mules,  but  generally  we  rode  along  the  shelving  side,  occasionally  scram- 
bling up  at  a  considerable  risk  of  tumbling  buck  into  the  lake. 

The  slope  was  frequently  bO° ;  the  pines  grew  densely  together,  and  the 
ground  was  covered  with  the  branches  and  trunks  of  trees.  The  air  was 
iragrant  with  the  odour  of  the  pines ;  and  I  realized  this  delightful  morning 
the  pleasure  of  breathing  that  mountain  air  which  makes  a  constant  theme 
of  the  hunter's  praise,  and  which  now  made  us  feel  as  if  we  had  all  been 
drinking  some  exhilirating  gas.  The  depths  of  this  unexplored  forest  were 
a  place  to  delight  the  heart  of  a  botanist.  There  was  a  rich  undeigrowth  of 
plants,  and  numerous  gay  colored  flowers  in  brilliant  bloom.  We  reached 
the  outlet  at  length,  where  some  freshly  barked  willows  that  lay  in  the  water 
showed  that  beaver  had  been  recently  at  work.  There  were  some  small 
brown  squirrels  jumping  about  in  the  pinea,  and  a  couple  of  large  mallard 
ducks  swimming  about  in  the  stream. 

The  hills  on  this  southern  end  were  low,  and  the  lake  looked  like  a  mimic 
sea,  as  the  waves  broke  on  the  sandy  beach  in  the  force  of  a  strong  breeze. 
There  was  a  pretty,  open  spot,  with  fine  grass  for  our  mules,  and  we  made 


{848] 


«2 


k|l,^ 


•1   ( 


our  noon  halt  on  (he  beach,  tindor  (he  nhncfe  of  tome  large  h^tmlocki.  We 
reaumed  our  journRy  after  a  hull  of  about  nn  hour,  mokini;  our  way  up  (ha 
ridge  on  the  weatern  lide  of  (he  Inki*.  In  learch  of  amooihrr  ground,  we 
nxM  a  liule  inland  ;  nnd,  paacing  through  grovea  of  aapi*ii,  loon  found  our- 
aelves  ngmin  among  ihe  |Miifa.  Kinerging  from  iheee,  we  itruck  ihe  aummil 
of  ihe  ridffe  above  the  upper  end  of  the  lake. 

We  had  readied  a  very  elevated  point,  and  in  (he  valley  l>t>low,  and  among 
thft  hillt,  were  a  number  of  lakea  at  different  leveU;  aomeitwo  or  three  liun- 
drei  feet  above  olhen,  Willi  which  they  rommnnicntrd  by  foaming  torrent*. 
Kvoi  to  our  great  height  (ho  roar  of  (he  calaraciii  eann  np,  and  we  rniild  lee 
theni  leaping  down  in  line*  of  mowy  foam.  From  thia  Kcene  of  buay  wa- 
(art,  we  turned  abruptly  into  the  ilillneee  of  a  forest,  where  we  rode  among 
the  open  belli  of  the  pines  over  a  lawn  of  verdant  grass,  having  strikingly 
the  air  of  cultivated  grounds.  This  led  u<<,  after  a  time,  among  mmwes  of 
rock  which  had  no  vegetable  earth  but  in  hollows  and  crevit-its,  thoiigti  >«till 
(he  pine  forest  continued.  Toward  evening,  we  reached  a  deflle,  or  rather 
a  hole  in  the  moumains,  entirely  shut  in  by  <lnrk  pine-covered  rockx. 

\  sm(ill  stream,  with  a  scart^cly  purcepiihie  current,  flowed  throuKh  a  level 
bottom  of  perhnps  eighty  yards  width,  wliere  the  grass  whs  saturated  with  wa- 
ter. Into  this  int!  iniiles  were  turned,  and  were  neither  hobbled  nor  picketed 
during  the  night,  vh  the  fine  pasturage  took  nwny  nil  temp(a(ion  to  stray ; 
and  we  nmde  our  i  ivouac  in  the  pines,  'i'he  surrounding  masses  were  all 
of  granif  While  supper  was  being  prepnred,  I  sot  out  on  an  excursion  in 
the  neighborhood,  accompanied  by  one  of  my  men.  We  wandered  about 
among  the  crags  and  ravines  until  dark,  richly  repaid  for  our  walk  bv  a  fine 
collection  of  plants,  many  of  them  in  full  bloom.  Ascending  a  peak  to  find 
(he  place  of  our  camp,  we  saw  (hat  the  little  defile  in  which  we  lay  com- 
municated with  the  long  green  valley  of  some  slream,  which,  here  locked  up 
in  the  mountains,  far  away  to  the  south  found  its  way  in  a  dense  forest  to 
(he  plains. 

Looking  along  its  upward  course,  it  seemed  to  conduct  by  a  smooth  grad- 
ual slope  directly  toward  the  peak,  which,  from  long  consultation  as  we  ap- 
proached the  mountain,  we  had  decided  to  be  the  highest  of  the  range. 
Pleased  with  the  discovery  of  so  fine  a  rood  for  the  next  day,  we  hastened 
down  to  the  camp,  wh^re  we  arrived  just  in  lime  for  Rupper.  Our  (able  ser- 
vice was  rather  scant,  and  we  held  the  meat  in  our  hands ;  and  clean  rocks 
made  good  plates,  on  which  we  spread  our  mncoroni.  Among  nil  the  strange 
places  on  which  we  had  occasion  to  encamp  during  our  long  journey,  none 
nave  left  so  vivid  an  impression  on  my  mind  as  the  camp  of  this  evening. 
The  disorder  of  the  masses  which  ^iiirrounded  us;  the  tittle  hole  through 
which  we  saw  (he  stars  overhead  ;  the  dark  pines  where  we  slept ;  and  the 
rocks  lit  up  witli  the  glow  of  our  fires,  made  a  night-picture  of  very  wild 
beauty. 

August  13. — The  morning  was  bright  and  pleasant,  just  cool  enough  to 
make  exercise  ag^recable,  and  we  soon  entered  the  defile  I  had  seen  (ho 
preceding  day.  It  was  smoothly  carpeted  with  a  soft  gross,  and  scattered  over 
with  groups  of  flowers,  of  which  yellow  was  the  predominant  color.  Some- 
times we  were  forced  by  an  occasional  difficult  pass  to  pick  our  way  on  a 
narrow  ledge  along  the  side  of  the  defile,  and  the  mules  were  frequently  on 
their  knees  ;  but  (Tiese  obstructions  were  rare,  and  we  journeyed  on  in  the 
sweet  morning  air,  delighted  at  our  good  fortune  in  having  found  such  a 
beautiful  entrance  to  the  mountains.    This  road  continued  for  about  three 


i«mlocki.  We 
niir  wny  up  ih« 
er  grountl,  we 
mon  found  our- 
ick  fhe  tummii 


low,  nnd  nmong 

0  or  three  hun- 
tnming  torrent*, 
id  we  ronid  aee 
le  of  buny  wa- 
ve rodfl  nmons 
iving  strikingly 
nong  inaMee  of 
*oi,  though  (till 
deflle,  or  rattier 
d  rock'. 
throuKh  n  level 
umted  with  wo- 
od nor  picketed 
)latlon  to  stray ; 
nnaeea  were  ail 
in  excursion  in 
irnndercd  about 
walk  by  a  fine 

1  a  peak  to  find 
h  we  lay  com- 
here  lock*  d  up 
dense  foieit  to 

emooth  grad- 

ition  as  we  ap- 

of  the  range. 

we  hastened 

Our  table  ser- 

id  clean  rocks 

all  the  strange 

journey,  none 

this  evening. 

hole  through 

ept ;  and  the 

of  very  wild 

ool  enough  to 
lad  seen  the 
senttered  over 
!olor.  Some- 
our  way  on  a 
frequently  on 
yed  on  in  the 
found  surh  a 
u*  about  three 


Illlitfii,  wl 

«vliich,  0 
iho  linllli 
III  a  liirlf 
Thnru 
(M'liriui  i(» 
im  iC ihuy 
liiuiivdiii 
and  Ixitiir 

IM^Xl'd  VK 

niit-li  u  ii 

Hlldt    ll|)   I 

('har<ii:i«'r 

I  Jcli'il 
toot.  'I'li 
iM'lont  Mi'j 

VIHIOIIN  (II 

iiiiitilH,  ail 

llaviii;r  III 

ill  till)  iNi 

risiilif  Imu 

^ri>ni  (i\i\}i 

ti)  iiiaku  I 

ureru  (illu( 

(li!«ceii(Jii); 

liii^fu  fruifi 

TlioMO  coil 

trcoiiuiiily 

n)CKs.     M 

liiiiiseir  t'lr 

clniiihored 

llie  foot  of 

pietly  Wt'll 

was  u  rock 

iVoiitiHoiHct 

iiroiiiid  till! 

otiiors,  Was 

i;fro(i8,  as 

\iy  the  t 

selves  all  c 

puny,  we  « 

same  int'us 

Dunks  of  fi 

tmi,  which 

Ijfilow  Urt,   f 

We  hud  leu 
iree  was  (o 
cold  sides  oi 
our  mules  v 
flowers  of  i 


o:i 


I  ^^^  J 


il',  • 


m 


-•   "> 


^^  ■:} 


iiiitt)«,  whan  A«  •iiiklfiiily  r«ni:lii«(l  Iih  iwriiiiMiilion  in  oiu!  otihu  urniiil  vitiWH, 
which,  ol  I'vdry  (iiiu,  iiittrt  ilm  iruvi'llrr  in  iliix  iiiiiuiDtK'uiil  rvjuuu.  IIciq 
iho  lioHia  ii|>  which  wii  hutl  irnvi'lU'd,  o|m'||i>iJ  itiii  into  u  miimiII  hiwi),  whvrw, 
III  It  Ulllfl  hik'*,  iho  Hlroiiin  hml  ii*  MMirco. 

Thnru  Wiirit  imiiim)  linu  UMivta  ili  hlixnii,  hiii  nil  llic  llowrriii'if  |tliiiilM  up- 
|M'iirii(l  toMHtk  thi>  nhrhrriii  ih«t  ri»<!k«,  miil  lo  lionl  lowtr  irrowih  ihiiii  l>(<loMr, 
im  il'  th«y  lovml  thii  wiiriiilh  oi  ihi<  >oil  itiitl  Iwpl  oiii  of  ihtf  way  i>t  ih**  wiiKiii. 
liiinuitJitiluly  lit  (iiir  i'l'cl  u  |)r«'iri|iiitiiiit  iUmhiiI  loi  ii>  u  ntiiiiiNioii  ol  dctih*, 
iiiid  hoi'ora  ii«  riwo  thn  iimmhiUiiiin  im  wi*  hiivit  ri|)rt'>i'ni< il  ilicin  iii  (Iim  an- 
imxi'd  view,  il  ii«  tioi  hy  tho  !«|>li'iiili)i  oi  tm  nit'  vi<  \vn,  wIim  Ii  hiivo  Inn 
Hiirh  II  ((lory  III  ilii<  Alpii,  iliui  iIh'mi  niiitri'sii  ili<*  iiniiii ;  Ixil  hy  a  it\U^iUUc 
liiMoriirr  oi'  iMiiM'iiiiiiiH  iiiii.xM'N,  niui  »  i<itvn{(ti  Mililiiiiiiy  nl  iKikrd  nick,  iii 
MttiidiTl'iil  iiMilni-l  Willi  iniiiiiiiciiililt)  gri'cii  rpoiN  iil  a  rich  lloiul  lit>niily. 
mIiiiI  up  III  tlii'ir  hicrii  ri'civ-Mcw.  'I'lifir  wiIiIiusn  Mvwn  u'cll  Ntntrd  to  Ihc 
('hiirtii;ii>r  lit  iIdi  pi't)plo  who  iiihnhii  ilit*  I'luiiiliy. 

I  di-icriiiiiK'il  lu  liNiv*^  our  iiniiii  lU  lu'ic,  and  iiiaki'  llit<  riNt  nt  iiiir  wny  on 
ti)Ot.  'I'lii-  piiili  ii|ip«>ai'<'d  M>  innr  Unit  iIhti'  umi  im  diiill  ol  our  rctiiriilii;; 
licloiit  Miuht,  mill  II  l(iw  iiii!n  \\«*ri'  ii^li  in  cluirui'  *>!  ilio  miiirs,  wiiji  mir  pit)* 
viHjoiiN  and  hlaiiki'lN,  Wc*  look  Willi  iih  nothiii;;  hnl  oiir  llrlll^  and  niNlru- 
iiiiinni,  and  iii  llit!  day  hud  hrioiiKt  waiin,  ihr  <{ri'iii(>r  pait  liMt  our  coolti. 
Ilaviii;,'  inadu  an  c.uiy  dinner,  wo  !i;aiii;d  uufitin.  U C  W(!ri>  mioii  iiivnivcd 
ill  till)  moNt  rttfjjud  pircipici'N,  niMiriii};  the  ci'iilni!  chmii  very  ylowly,  and 
risinif  liiit  liilh>.  'l*h(>  (ii<4t  rid^u  hnl  a  .siinesioii  olotlu-iM,  and  wlii'ii  with 
i;ri*ni  tiiti;;no  and  dillii'.iiliy  wi!  hud  cliincd  ii|)  livi'  hinidicd  ti>rt,  it  wat«  hut 
to  niaku  nil  oipial  discciit  on  the  othrr  ?iiil(3 ;  all  thcru  iiiii>rveiiiii}(  plncoM 
wore  iillud  with  Minall  dt<i>p  lakrN,  which  tiiot  thu  uyu  in  uvcry  diiociion, 
(litdconditi^  tVuiii  oin;  luvnl  lo  aiiothor,  Hniiii'tmius  under  hrid^os  rornitHl  hy 
liiiifo  frttjirineiils  ot'uraiiitr,  lu'iuutli  which  wad  henrd  the  roar  uf  the  waiur. 
ThcMu  consinnily  ohHtrncti'd  oiir  path,  torcin$<  us  to  make  long  diiows ; 
tieoiiuiiily  ohiiiifd  to  riiiutct^  our  Mops,  and  I'rfqiiently  falling  uinon^  the 
rocks.  Muxwull  was  prreipiiati>d  toward  the  fnco  of  u  precipice,  and  wtyed 
liiinseif  from  }roin)|f  ovttr  hy  throwin^r  hini.sulf  flat  on  the  f^roiirid.  Wo 
ciniulxired  on,  alwitya  «>x|)i>r:tiiiir  with  every  rid^'o  that  w:>  croi>sod,  to  reach 
tilt'  foot  of  the  poalts,  niid  always  ili.snppointcd,  uiliil  ahoiit  4  o'clock,  when, 
predy  well  worn  out,  wc  narlied  tin-  hhoru  of  a  litllo  lake,  in  which  there 
was  u  rocky  islniid,  and  (Voiii  which  we  ohtained  the  view  ;rivi'n  in  the 
IrontiHoiHcc.  We  remained  lii-ii;  a  short  tiine  lo  rest,  and  cDtiiinned  on 
iiroiiMU  the  lake,  whirli  had  in  Moine  places  a  heacli  of  while  siiiid,  and  in 
others,  was  hoiind  with  loek.-',  over  which  the  way  was  dillieiill  and  dan- 
gerous, as  iho  water  from  innnnicinhU'.  spiin^s  made  them  very  sli|)pery. 

By  I  he  time  we  had  reached  iIh:  rnilher  dide  of  ilie  hike,  we  found  our* 
selves  all  exci.-edinjjly  falijrned,  and  nmch  lo  the  ^iilisliiciion  of  the  whole 
piiily,  we  encam|)cd.  The  k[)oi  we  hail  cIiomm  was  n  liioad  (liil  rock,  in 
SDitic  incumne  pioleclcd  Imm  the  windd  hy  ihe  ttiirKinnihii!;  cr<in;s,  and  the 
uiiiiks  of  fallen  pines  allurded  ns  hi'ii<lil  ilie.->.  Near  ity  wi\^  a  foaming  lor- 
feiit,  which  lumhled  into  the  lillle  lake  ahoni  one  hundred  and  fifty  feel 
helow  ua,  nnd  which,  by  way  of  di.^iinction,  we  have  called  bliinri  lake. 
Wc  hud  reached  ihe  upper  limit  of  the  piney  ri>;;ion  ;  aa,  ahove  lliia  point,  no 
tree  was  to  be  seen,  and  patches  of  snow  lay  everywhere  around  us  on  ihe 
cold  aides  of  ilie  rocks.  'I'lio  llora  of  the  ie|Lrion  wc  hud  iravcrcd  since  leaviiijy 
our  mules  wus  cxlreniely  rich,  und  anion;;:  ihe  cliuracicrisiic  plants,  the  scuilel 
flowers  of  the  doikcatheon  ittnlatutii  t\ciywhere  met  the  eye  in  gieal  ubun- 


[243] 


64 


r 


(Innce.  A  small  gtctn  ravine,  on  the  edge  of  which  \Vo  were  eiicambed,  wnS 
filled  wlih  a  profusion  of  Alpine  pinnu  in  brilliuni  bloom.  From  bnmmei' 
ricnl  observations,  niiulu  during  our  three  days'  sojourn  at  this  pinco,  its  ele- 
vation abovu  the  Ou\f  of  Mexico  is  1(),(NK)  feel.  Puring  the  day,  we  hnd  seen 
no  Hign  of  animal  life  *,  but  among  iho  rocks  hero,  we  heard  what  was  sup- 
posed to  be  ihe  bleat  of  a  young  goal,  which  W)  searched  for  with  hungry 
activity,  and  found  lo  proceed  from  a  sniall  animal  of  n  gray  color,  wiih  short 
cars  and  no  mil ;  probably  the  Hiberian  squirrel.  We  m\w  a  considerable 
numbitr  of  (hoin,  and  with ilie  exi't-ptiou  of  a  small  bird  like  a  sparrow,  it  is 
the  only  iiiliabiiaiit  of  this  elevated  part  of  the  mountains.  On  our  return, 
\Tc  saw,  Itfldw  (his  Inke,  large  Hocks  of  the  inouniain  goat.  We  had  nothing 
to  cut  to  night.  l.aJt>iuiecS(!,  with  «i(>velal  oiIicih,  look  their  guns,  and  sallied 
out  in  st'iHclMifa  •rout;  Ixit  roluriied  unPUcccKsfnl.  At  sunset,  the  barometer 
MiiHul  u(  2l).5'i:^ — the  aliacliet!  ihiwmomctcr  5(l'\  Here  we  had  the  misfor- 
lime  to  bi«>ak  our  liicrmoincUT,  liitving  now  only  that  attached  to  the  barom- 
eter. I  wati  taken  ill  c*liorily  after  we  had  encamped,  and  continued  so  until 
lute  in  the  nii;ht,  willi  violent  lieadache  (uul  vomiting.  Tliis  was  proliahly 
CHUdcd  l>y  thu  excessive  I'aiigue  1  had  itiulei<>-one,  nnd  want  of  i'ood,  and 
perhaps aUo  in  some  measuie  by  the  rarity  of  ihe  air.  'The  nii^hl.  was  cold, 
ud  a  violent  gale  from  the  north  hail  8prmi<^  up  at  smiHct,  wliich  entirely 
blew  away  the  heat  of  iho  lires.  The  citld,  aiul  our  granite  bed.^,  had  not 
been  favorable  lo  slee[),  and  we  were  glad  to  see  the  face  of  the  sun  in  the 
morning.  Noi  being  delayed  by  any  preparation  for  breakfast,  we  set  out 
immediately. 

On  every  side  as  we  advanced  was  heard  the  roar  of  wuterii,  and  of  a  tor- 
rent, which  we  followed  up  a  short  disiaiice,  miiil  it  expanded  into  a  lake 
about  one  mile  in  length.     On  the  noitliern  side  of  the  lake  was  a  bank  of 
ice,  or  rather  of  snow,  covered  with  a  crust  of  ice.     Carson  had  been  our 
guide  into  the  mountains,  and  agreeably  lo  his  advice,  we  left  this  little  val- 
ley, and  took  to  the  ridges  again  ;  which  we  found  extremely  bioken,  and 
where  we  were  again  involved  among  precipices.     Hero  were  ice  fields, 
among  which  we  were  ail  dispersed,  seeking  each  tin?  best  path  to  ascend 
the  peak.     Mr.  Preuss  atienipied  to  walk  along  iho  upper  edge  of  one  of 
these  fields,  which  sloped  away  at  an  angle  of  about  iwenly  degrees,  but  his 
feet  slipped  from  under  him,  and  he  went  plunging  down  the  plane.     A  few 
hundred  feet  below,  at  the  bottom,  were  some  fragmenis  of  .sharp  rock,  on 
which  he  ianJcd  ;   ami  ihougii  he  turned  a  couple  of  somerse's,  fortunately 
receive<l  no  injury  l»eyoiul  a  tew  bruises.     Two  of  the  men,  Clement  Lam- 
bert and  Descoleaux,  liiui  been  taken  ill,  and  laid  down  on  the  rocks  a  short 
distance  below;  and  al  this  point  I  was  attacked  with  headache  and  giddiness, 
accompanied  by  vomiting,  as  on  the  day  before.     Finding  myself  unable  to 
proceed,  I  sent  the  buromeler  over  to  Mr.  Preuss,  wh-^  was  in  a  gap  two  or 
three  humlied  yards  disMiil,  desiring  him  to  reach  the  peak  if  possible,  and 
take  an  observation  iheie.     He  found   himself  unable  to  proceed  further  in 
that  direction,  and  look  an  observation  where  the  barometer  stood,  at  19.41)1  — 
Attached  thermometer  50°,  in  the  gap.     Carson,  who  had  gone  over  to  him, 
succeeded  in  reachiii^'j  one  of  the  snowy  summits  of  the  main  ridge,  whence 
he  saw  the  peak  towards  which  alt  our  eflbrls  had  been  directed,  towering 
eight  or  ten  hundred  I'eet  into  the  air  above  him.     In  the  meantime,  finding 
myself  grow  rather  worse  than  better,  and  doubtful  how  far  my  strength 
would  carry  me,  I  sent  Basil  Lojeunesse,  with  four  men,  back  to  the  place 
where  the  mules  had  been  left. 


Wew« 

I  directed 

or  five  it 

Ayot;  an 

unpieasan 

to  the  can 

1  continue 

when  my 

all  inouni 

fatigued  K 

in  his  poi 

mnn.    Th 

meat  and 

with  our  fi 

Auffiist 

tains;  and 

out  at  da) 

with  him  i 

back  the  n 

set  out.     } 

Lnmbcrt,  J 

(lay  by  a  h 

for  one  mo 

bird;  and, 

peaks.     Tl 

erntely  res( 

human  me 

left  of  vest 

mules  had 

island  camj 

der  to  hnsb 

passage,  stil 

bad  many 

end.    In  th 

small  streai 

the  footing  ( 

with  the  tri( 

satisfaction 

central  sum 

perpendicul 

heads  in  a  s 

c  Tie  almost 

Sl  -w  Peak, 

boring  sumr 

perhaps  a  th 

lay  in  a  kirn 

but  a  few  hi 

I  at  20.450,  at 

We  manaj 

above  the  la 

I  loose  to  graz 

wonderful  si 


95 


[  243  ] 


n  unroinei* 
\co,  iw  ele- 
ve  lind  ticen 
i\t  WU9  8up- 
riih  Imngry 
,  wiih  short 
Lonsiilemlile 
paiiow,  it  in 
I  one  iriurn, 
hiul  nuihiiig 
,  i\iui  sullied 
le  burometcr 
iho  miflfor- 
i  iho  bniom- 
iiitiil  so  niiiil 
viw  prolmbly 
>f  I'uod,  and 
;lit  wiw  iHild, 
licU  (MJliiely 
jed-",  Imd  not 
lu  Btiii  in  llio 
i\ ,  we  sol  out 

nnd  of  i\  toi- 
d  into  a  lake 
vas  a  bank  of 
u\d  been  our 
tills  little  val- 
biokun,  and 
re  ice  fields, 
aili  to  ascend 
go  of  one  of 
grcea,  but  his 
ane.     A  few 
laip  rock,  on 
s,  fortunately 
I  lenient  Lnni- 
!  rocks  a  short 
luul  sriildiiiess, 
rself  unable  to 
1  a  gap  two  or 
possible,  and 
eed  further  in 
d,  at  19.401— 
e  over  to  him, 
ridge,  whence 
cted,  towering 
ntime,  finding 
r  my  strength 
k  to  the  place 


We  were  now  better  ncquninted  with  (he  topogrnpliy  of  the  country,  nnd 
I  directed  him  to  bring  bnck  with  him,  if  it  were  in  any  way  nowible,  four 
or  five  mules,  with  provisions  nnd  binnkels.  With  me  were  Maxwell  nnd 
Ayot  -,  nnd  nfier  we  Imd  remained  nearly  an  hour  on  the  rock,  it  became  so 
unpleasontly  cold,  though  the  day  was  bright,  that  we  set  out  on  our  return 
lo  the  camp,  nt  which  we  nil  arrived  safely,  straggling  in  one  nfier  the  other. 
1  continued  ill  during  the  afternoon,  but  became  better  towards  sundown, 
when  my  recovery  was  completed  by  the  appearance  of  Onsil  and  four  men, 
all  mounted.  The  men  who  hod  gone  with  him  hnd  been  too  much 
fatigued  to  return,  nnd  were  relievod  by  those  in  chnrge  of  the  horses;  but 
in  his  powers  of  endurance  Hnsil  resembled  more  a  mountain  goat  than  n 
innn.  They  brought  binnkels  nnd  provisions,  and  we  enjoyed  well  nur  dried 
meat  nnd  n  cup  of  good  coffee.  We  rolled  ourselves  up  in  our  blankets,  and 
with  our  foet  turneil  to  n  blazing  fire,  silept  soundly  until  morning. 

Auffust  15. — It  had  been  supposed  thnt  we  had  finished  with  the  moun- 
tcin.s ;  and  the  evening  before,  it  had  been  arrnngi^d  that  Carson  should  set 
out  nt  daylight,  and  return  to  breakfast  nt  the  Camp  of  the  Mules,  taking 
with  him  nil  but  fniir  or  five  men,  who  were  to  stay  with  me  ond  bring 
bnck  the  mules  end  instruments.  Accordingly,  nt  the  break  of  dny  they 
set  out.  With  Mr.  Preuss  nnd  myself  remained  Rnsil  Iiajeunesse,  Clement 
Lninbcrt,  Janisse,  and  Descoteaux.  When  we  had  secured  strength  for  the 
day  by  n  hearty  brenkfast,  we  covered  what  remained,  which  Was  enough 
for  one  meal,  with  rocks,  in  order  thnt  it  might  be  safe  from  nny  mnranding 
bird ;  nnd,  saddling  our  mules,  turned  our  faces  once  more  towards  the 
peaks.  This  time  we  determined  to  proceed  quietly  and  cnutiously,  delib- 
erately resolved  to  nccomplish  our  object  if  it  were  withm  the  compass  of 
human  means.  We  were  of  opinion  thnt  n  long  defile  which  lay  to  the 
left  of  yesterday's  route  would  lend  us  to  the  foot  of  the  mnin  pcnk.  Our 
mules  had  been  refreshed  by  the  fine  grass  in  the  little  ravine  at  the 
island  camp,  nnd  wo  intended  to  ride  up  the  defile  ns  far  as  possible,  in  or- 
der to  husband  our  strength  for  the  ninm  nscent.  Though  this  was  a  fine 
passage,  still  it  was  a  defile  of  the  most  rugged  mountains  known,  and  w^e 
imd  many  a  rotigh  and  steep  slippery  place  to  cross  before  reaching  the 
end.  In  this  place  the  sun  rarely  shone,  snow  lay  along  the  border  of  the 
small  stream  which  flowed  through  it,  and  occasional  icy  passages  made 
the  footing  ot  the  mules  very  insecure,  and  the  rocks  and  ground  were  moist 
with  the  trickling  waters  in  this  spring  of  mighty  rivers.  We  soon  had  the 
satisfaction  to  find  ourselves  riding  along  the  huge  wall  which  forms  the 
central  summits  of  the  chain.  There  at  last  it  rose  by  our  sides,  a  nearly 
perpendicular  wall  of  granite,  terminating  2,000  to  3,000  feet  above  our 
heads  in  a  serrated  line  of  broken,  jagged  cones.  We  rode  on  until  we 
c  nie  almost  immediately  below  the  main  peak,  which  I  denominated  the 
St.  w  Peak,  as  it  exhibited  more  snow  to  the  eye  than  any  of  the  neigh- 
boring summits.  Here  were  three  small  lakes  of  a  green  color,  each  of 
perhaps  a  thousand  yards  in  diameter,  and  appav-ently  very  deep.  These 
lay  in  a  kind  of  chasm ;  and,  according  to  the  barometer,  we  had  attained 
but  a  few  hundred  feet  above  the  Island  lake.  The  barometer  here  stood 
at  20.450,  attached  thermometer  70°. 

We  managi^d  to  get  our  mules  up  to  a  little  bench  nbout  a  htmdred  feet 
above  the  lakes,  where  there  was  a  patch  of  good  grass,  nnd  turned  them 
loose  io  graze.  During  our  rough  ride  to  this  place  they  had  exhibited  a 
[wonderful  surefootedness.    Parts  of  the  defile  were  filled  with  angular, 

9 


[243] 


flhnrp  fragments  of  rdck,  three  oi  four  (pud  eif^li  >r  (en  feet  cube  ;  und  amon? 
these  they  had  worked  tlieir  way,  leapiotr  from  »tte  narrow  point  to  another, 
rarely  making  a  fulso  step,  and  giving  \\t<  no  ocfutmon  to  disniouni.  Having 
divested  ourselves  of  every  unnocessory  wncumbrnnco,  we  conmienced  the 
ascent.  This  time,  Uke  experienced  travellers,  wo  did  not  press  ourselves, 
but  climbed  leisurely,  sitting  down  so  soon  us  we  found  breath  beginning 
to  fail.  At  intervals  we  reached  places  where  a  number  of  springs  gushed 
from  the  rocks,  and  about  1,800  feet  above  the  lakes  came  to  the  snow  Imo. 
From  this  point  our  progress  was  uninterrupted  climbing.  Hitherto  I  had 
worn  a  pair  of  thick  moccasins,  with  soles  o(  pnrflkche ;  but  here  I  put  on 
a  light  thin  pair,  which  I  hod  brought  for  the  purpose,  ns  now  the  use  ol 
our  toes  became  necessary  to  a  further  advance.  1  availed  myself  of  a  sort 
of  comb  of  the  mouiuaiti,  which  stood  against  the  wall  like  a  buttress,  and 
which  the  wind  and  the  solar  radiation,  joined  to  the  steepneas  of  the  smooth 
rock,  had  kept  almost  entirely  free  from  snow.  Up  this  I  made  my  way 
rapidly.  Our  cautious  meihud  of  advancing  in  the  outset  had  spared  my 
strength  ;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  slig'..:.  disposition  to  headache,  1  felt 
no  remains  of  yesterday's  illness.  In  a  few  minutes  we  reached  a  point 
where  the  buttress  was  overhanging,  and  tliere  was  no  other  woy  of  sur- 
mounting the  ditiiculty  than  by  pa.ssing  around  one  side  of  it,  which  wn!> 
the  face  of  a  vertical  precipice  of  several  hundred  feel. 

Putting  hands  and  feet  in  the  crevices  between  the  blocks,  I  succeeded 
in  getting  over  it,  and  when  I  reached  the  top,  found  my  companions  in  a 
small  valley  below.  Descending  to  them,  we  continued  climbing,  and  iiij 
a  short  time  reached  the  crest.  I  sprang  upon  the  summit,  and  another 
step  would  have  precipitated  me  into  an  immense  snow  field  five  hundred 
feet  below.  To  the  edge  of  this  field  was  a  sheer  icy  precipice  ;  and  then, 
with  a  gradual  fall,  the  field  sloped  off  for  about  a  mile,  until  it  struck  the 
foot  of  another  lower  ridge.  I  stood  on  a  narrow  crest,  about  three  feet  in 
width,  with  an  inclination  of  about  20°  N.  51°  E.  As  soon  as  1  hud  grati 
fied  the  first  feelings  of  curiosity  1  descended,  and  each  man  ascended  in 
his  turn,  for  I  would  only  allow  one  at  a  time  to  mount  the  unstable  and 
precarious  slab,  which  it  seemed  a  breath  would  hurl  into  the  abyss 
below.  We  mounted  the  barometer  in  the  snow  of  the  summit,  and  fixing 
«  ramrod  in  u  crevice,  unfurled  the  national  flag  to  wave  in  the  breeze 
where  never  flaar  waved  before.  IDuring  our  mornin<''s  ascent  we  had  met 
no  sij^n  of  animal  life  except  the  small  sparrow-like  bird  already  mentioned. 
A  stillness  the  most  profound  and  a  terrible  solitude  forced  themselves  cou 
stantly  on  the  mind  as  the  great  features  of  the  place.  Here  on  the  sum- 
mit, where  the  stillness  was  absolute,  tinbroken  by  any  sound,  and  the  soli 
tilde  complete,  we  thought  ourselves  beyond  the  region  of  animated  life 
.  but  while  we  were  sitting  on  the  rock  a  solitary  bee  (bromus,  the  humbk 
bee)  came  winging  his  flight  from  the  eastern  valley,  and  lit  on  the  knee 
of  one  of  the  men. 

Ii  was  a  strange  place,  the  icy  rock  and  the  highest  peak  of  the  Rockv 
'Mountains,  for  a  lover  of  warm  sunshine  and  fiowers,  and  we  pleased  our 
reives  with  the  idea  that  he  was  the  fir^t  of  his  8{iecre3  to  ciriaa  the  mountain 
barrier,  a  solitary  pioneer  to  fortell  the  advance  of  civilization.  I  believej 
thnta  moment's  thougtu  would  have  made  us  let  him  contihue  bis  way  un 
harmed,  but  we  carried  out  the  law  of  this  cottnlry,  where  all  animated  na- 
ture seems  at  war ;  and  seizing  him  immediately,  put  him  in  at  least  a  fii 
place,  in  the  leaves  of  a  large  book  among  the  flowers  we  bad  collected  oai 


[243] 


5 ;  and  anions 
int  to  another, 
ouni.  Having 
iimienced  the 
ess  ourselves, 
[Uh  l)egionin|r 
pringa  gushed 
the  snow  lino. 
hitherto  1  had 
here  1  put  on 
low  the  use  ol 
[lyself  of  a  sort 
1  buttress,  and 
!  of  the  smooth 
nude  my  wtiv 
I  ad  spared  my 
leadache,  I  felt 
uaclied  a  point 
Rt  way  of  sur- 
it,  which  was. 

ks,  I  succeeded 
ompanions  in  a 
imbing,  and  in 
it,  and  another  | 
d  five  hundred 
pice ;  and  then. 
til  it  struck  the 
>ut  three  feet  in| 

as  1  had  grati- 
lan  ascended  in 
e  unstable  aiid| 
into  the  ah 
unit,  and  fixiiigl 
!  in  the  breezt: 
ent  we  had  inet 
sady  mentioned, 
themselves  ecu 
ire  on  the  sura| 
id,  and  the  soli 
animated  life 
nus,  the  humbk\ 

it  on  the  knw 

k  of  the  RockyI 
we  pleased  our- 
ss  the  mountainl 
It  ion.  I  believe] 
lue  his  way  un 
II  animated  na- 
iti  at  least  a  fii 
tad  collected  oal 


«nr  way.  The  bnromc'er  stood  at  18,293.  Tli*  attached  thermometer  at 
44'^,  givin-;  for  the  elevation  of  this  siiiumit  13,670  feet  above  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  which  may  be  called  the  highest  flight  of  the  bee.  It  is  certainly 
the  highest  known  flight  of  that,  insect.  From  the  description  given  by 
Mackenzie  of  ihe  mountains  where  he  crotwed  them,  with  that  of  a  F'rencli 
otTicer  still  further  to  the  north,  and  (Jolonel  Long's  measurements  to  the 
south,  Joined  to  the  opinion  of  the  oldest  traders  of  the  country,  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  this  is  the  highest  peak  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  day  was 
sunnv  and  bright,  but  a  slight  shining  irisl  hung  over  the  lower  plains, 
which  interfered  with  our  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  On  one  side 
we  overlooked  innumerable  lakes  and  streams,  the  spring  of  the  Colorado  of 
the  (iulf  of  California;  and  on  the  other  was  the  Wind  River  valley,  where 
were  the  heads  of  the  Yellowstone  branch  of  the  Missouri ;  far  to  the  north 
we  jus*!  could  discover  the  snowy  heads  of  the  Wow  Tetons,  where  were 
the  sources  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers;  and  at  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  ridge  the  peaks  were  plainly  visible  among  which  were  some 
of  the  springs  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  river.  Around  us  ihe  whole  scene 
had  one  main  striking  feature,  which  was  that  of  terrible  convulsion.  Pa- 
rallel to  its  length,  the  ridge  was  split  into  chasms  and  fissures;  between 
which  rose  the  tliin  lofiy  walls,  terminated  with  slender  minarets  and  columns, 
which  is  correctly  represented  in  the  view  from  the  camp  on  Island  lake.  Ac* 
cording  to  the  barometer,  the  iinle  crest  of  the  wall  on  which  we  stood  was  three 
tliousand  Ave  hundred  and  seventy  feet  above  thai  place,  and  two  thousand 
•even  hundred  and  eighty  above  the  little  lakes  at  the  bottom,  immediately  at 
our  feet.  Our  camp  at  the  Two  Hills  (an  astronomical  station)  bore  south 
3°  east.,  which,  with  a  bearing  afterward  obtained  from  a  fixed  position,  en- 
abled us  to  locate  the  peak.  The  bearing  of  the  IVois  Tetons  was  north 
60°  west,  and  the  direction  of  the  central  ridge  of  the  Wind  River  mountains 
south  39°  east.  The  summit  rock  was  gneiss,  succeeded  by  syenitic  gneiss. 
Syenite  and  feldspar  succeeded  in  oin  descent  to  the  snow  line,  where  we 
found  a  feldspathic  granite.  I  had  remarked  that  the  noise  produced  by  the 
explosion  of  our  pistols  had  the  usual  degree  of  loudness,  but  was  not  in  the 
lenst  prolon:Ted,  expiring  almost  instantaneously.  Having  now  made  what 
observations  our  means  aflforded,  we  proceeded  to  descend.  We  had  ac- 
complished an  object  of  laudable  ambition,  and  beyond  the  strict  order  of  our 
instructions.  We  had  climbed  the  loftiest  peak  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
looked  down  upon  the  snow  a  thousand  feel  below,  and  standing  where 
never  human  foot  had  stood  before,  felt  the  exultation  of  tlist  explorers. 
It  was  abovit  2  o'clock  when  we  left  the  summit,  and  when  we  reached  the 
bottom  the  sun  had  already  sunk  behind  the  wall,  and  the  day  was  draw- 
ing to  a  close.  It  would  have  been  pleasant  to  have  lingered  here  and  on 
the  summit  longer,  but  we  hurried  away  as  rapidly  as  the  ground  would 
permit,  for  it  was  an  object  to  regain  our  party  as  soon  as  jx>ssible,  not 
i:nowin^  what  accident  the  next  hour  might  bring  forth. 

We  reached  our  depoeii  of  provisions  at  nightfall.  Here  was  not  the  inn 
wliich  awaits  the  tired  traveller  on  his  return  from  Mont  Blanc,  or  the 
orange  groves  of  South  America,  with  their  refreshing  juices  and  soft  fragrant 
«ir;  hut  we  found  out  liule  cache  of  dried  meat  and  coffee  undisturbed. 
Though  the  moon  was  btight,  the  road  was  full  of  precipices,  and  the  fatigue 
of  the  day  had  been  great.  We  therefore  abandoned  the  idea  of  rejoining  our 
Ciiends,  und  lay  down  on  the  rock,  and,  in  spite  of  the  cold,  slept  soundly. 

AuguM  16.— We  left  our  encarapiiaeat  with  the  daylight.    We  saw  on 


I  248  ] 


68 


f^iCj 


our  way  lari^e  flocks  of  the  mountain  goat  looking  down  on  us  from  th« 
clitfti.  At  the  crack  of  a  ride  they  would  bound  off  among  the  rocks,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  mnlce  their  appearance  on  some  lofty  peak,  some  hundred 
or  a  thousand  feet  above.  It  is  needless  to  attempt  any  further  description 
of  the  country;  the  portion  over  which  we  truvellod  this  morning  was 
rough  as  imaginatian  could  picture  it,  and  to  us  seemed  equally  beautiful. 
A  concourse  of  lakes  and  runhing  waters,  mountains  of  rocks  naked  and 
destitute  of  vegetable  earth,  dells  and  ravines  of  tiie  most  exquisite  beauty, 
all  kept  green  and  fresh  by  the  great  moisture  in  the  air,  and  sown  with 
brilliant  flowers,  and  every  where  thrown  around  all  the  glory  of  most  magni- 
ficent scenes  ;  the^e  constitute  the  features  of  the  place,  and  impress  them* 
selves  vividly  on  the  mind  of  the  traveller.  It  wns  nut  until  11  o'clock  that 
we  reached  the  place  where  our  animals  had  been  left,  when  we  first  attempt- 
ed the  mountains  on  foot.  Near  oiie  of  the  still  burning  fires  we  found  a 
piece  of  meat,  which  our  friends  had  thrown  away,  and  which  furnished 
us  a  mouthful — a  very  scanty  breakfast.  We  continued  directly  on,  and 
reached  our  camp  on  ihe  mountain  lake  at  dusk.  We  found  all  well. 
Nothing  had  occurred  to  interrupt  the  quiet  since  our  departure,  and  the 
line  grass  and  good  cool  water  had  done  much  to  re  establish  our  animals. 
All  heard  with  great  delight  the  order  to  turn  our  faces  homeward  ;  and 
toward  sundown  of  the  17th,  we  encamped  again  at  the  Two  Buttes. 

In  the  course  of  this  afternoon's  march,  the  barometer  was  broken  past 
remedy.  I  regretted  it,  as  1  was  desirous  to  compare  it  again  with  Dr.  Engel- 
man's  barometers  at  St.  Louis,  to  which  mine  were  referred  ;  but  it  had  done 
its  part  well,  and  my  objects  were  mainly  fulfilled. 

August  19. — We  left  our  camp  on  Little  Sandy  river  about  7  in  the  I 
morning,  and  traversed  the  same  sandy  undulating  country.  The  air  was 
filled  with  the  turpentine  scent  of  the  various  ariemisias,  which  are  now 
in  bloom,  and  nimierous  as  they  are,  give  much  gaiety  to  the  landscape  of 
the  plains.  At  10  o'clock,  we  stood  exactly  on  the  divide  in  the  pass,  [ 
where  the  wagon  road  crosses,  and  descending  immediately  upon  the  Sweet 
Water,  halted  to  take  a  meridian  observation  of  the  sun.  The  latitude  was  | 
42°  24'  3^ ". 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  we  saw  buffalo  again,  and  at  our  evening  I 
halt  on  ihe  Sweet  Water,  the  roasted  ribs  again  made  their  appearance 
around  the  fires,  and  with  them,  good  humor  and  laughter,  and  song  were 
restored  to  the  camp.     Our  coffee  had  been  expended,  but  we  now  made  a | 
kind  of  tea  fiom  the  roots  of  the  wild  cherry  tree. 

August  23. — Yesterday  evening  we  reached  our  encampment  at  Rock  I 
Independence,  where  I  took  some  astronomical  observations.    Here,  not  | 
unmindful  of  the  custom  of  early  travellers  and  explorers  in  our  country, 
I  engraved  on  this  rock  of  the  Far  West  a  symbol  of  the  Christian  faith. 
Among  the  thickly  inscribed  names,  I  made  on  the  hard  granite  the  im- 
pression of  a  large  cross,  which  I  covered  with  a  black  preparation  of  India  I 
rubber,  well  calculated  to  resist  the  influence  of  wind  and  rain.     It  stands 
amidst  the  names  of  many  who  have  long  since  found  their  way  to  the  | 
grave,  and  for  whom  the  huge  rock  is  a  giant  grave  stone. 

One  George  Weymouth  was  sent  out  to  Maine  by  the  Earl  of  South*  I 
ampton.  Lord  Arundel,  and  others ;  and  in  the  narrative  of  their  discoveries, 
he  says  :     "  The  next  day,  we  ascended  in  our  pinnace,  that  part  of  tho 
river  which  lies  more  to  the  westward,  carrying  with  us  a  cross — a  thing 
aiever  omitted  by  any  Christian  traveller — which  we  erected  at  the  ultimate 


69 


[248] 


end  of  our  route."  This  was  in  the  year  1605,  and  in  1842, 1  obeyed  the 
feelinff  of  early  travellers,  and  left  tlie  impression  of  the  cross  deeply  en- 
graved on  the  vast  rock  one  thousand  miles  beyond  the  Mississippi,  to 
which  discoverers  have  given  (he  national  name  of  Rock  Independence. 

In  obedience  to  my  instructions  to  survey  the  river  Platte,  if  possible,  I 
had  determined  to  make  nn  attempt  at  this  place.  The  India  rubber  boat 
was  tilled  with  air,  placed  in  the  water,  and  loaded  with  what  was  neccs< 
sary  for  our  operations ;  and  I  embarked  with  Mr.  Preuss  and  a  party  of 
men.  When  wo  had  dragged  our  boat  for  a  mile  or  two  over  the  sands,  I 
abandoned  the  impossible  undertaking,  and  waited  for  the  arrival  of  the 
porty,  when  we  packed  up  our  boat  and  equipage,  and  at  9  o'clock  were 
again  moving  along  on  our  lond  journey.  We  continued  along  the  valley 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hwcet  Woter,  where  the  formation,  as  alreody  de- 
scribed, consists  of  a  grayish  micaceous  sandstone,  and  tine-grained  con- 
glomerate, and  marl.  We  passed  over  a  ridge  which  borders  or  constitutes 
the  river  hills  of  the  Plutte,  consisting  of  huge  blocks  sixty  or  eighty  feet 
cube  of  decomposing  granite.  The  cement  which  united  them  was  proba- 
bly of  easier  decomposition,  and  has  disappeared  and  left  them  isolate,  and 
separated  by  small  spaces.  Numerous  horns  of  the  mountain  goat  were 
lying  among  the  rocks,  and  in  the  ravines  were  cedars  whose  trunks  were 
of  extraordinary  size.  From  this  ridge  we  descended  to  a  small  open  plain 
nt  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  which  rushed  with  a  rapid  current  into 
the  Platte,  here  llowing  along  in  a  broad,  tranquil,  and  opparently  deep  stream, 
which  seemed,  from  its  turbid  appearance  to  be  considerably  swollen.  I 
obtained  here  some  astronomical  observations,  and  the  afternoon  was  spent 
in  getting  our  boat  ready  for  navigation  the  next  day. 

August  24. — We  started  before  sunrise,  intending  to  breakfast  at  Goat 
island.  I  had  directed  the  land  party,  in  charge  of  Bernier,  to  proceed  to 
this  ploce,  where  they  were  to  remain,  should  they  find  no  note  to  apprise 
them  of  our  having  passed.  In  the  event  of  receiving  this  information, 
they  were  to  continue  their  route,  passing  by  certain  places  which  had 
b6en  designated.  Mr.  Preuss  accompanied  me,  and  with  us  were  five  of 
my  best  men,  viz.,  0.  Lambert,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  Honore  Ayot,  Benoist, 
and  Descoteaux.  Here  appeared  no  scarcity  of  water,  and  we  took  on 
board,  with  various  instruments  and  baggage,  provisions  for  ten  or  twelve 
days.  We  paddled  down  the  river  rapiSly,  for  our  little  craft  was  light  as 
a  duck  on  the  water,  and  the  sun  had  been  some  time  risen,  when  we  heard 
before  us  a  hollow  roar,  which  we  supposed  to  be  that  of  a  fall  of  which 
we  had  heard  a  vague  rumor,  but  whose  exact  locality  no  one  had  been 
able  to  describe  to  us.  We  were  approaching  a  ridge,  through  which  the 
river  passes  by  a  place  called  "caik)n"  (pronounced  kanyon),  a  Spanish 
word,  signifying  a  piece  of  artillery,  the  barrel  of  a  gun,  or  any  kind  of 
tube;  and  which,  in  this  country, has  been  adopted  to  describe  the  passage 
of  a  river  between  perpendicular  rocks  of  great  height,  which  frequently 
approach  each  other  so  closely  overhead  as  to  form  a  kind  of  tunnel  over 
the  stream,  which  foams  along  below,  half-choked  up  by  fallen  fragments. 
Between  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water  and  Goat  island,  there  is  probably 
a  fall  of  three  hundred  feet,  aad  (hat  was  principally  made  in  the  canons 
before  us;  as  without  them,  the  writer  was  comparatively  smooth.  As  we 
neared  the  ridge,  the  river  made  a  sudden  turn,  and  swept  squarely  down 
against  one  of  the  walls  of  the  canon  with  a  great  velocity  and  so  steep 
a  descent,  that  it  had  to  the  eye  the  appearance  of  an  inclined  plane. 


[248] 


70 


f 


'.  It 


When  we  Uunched  into  this,  the  men  jumped  overboard,  to  check  the 
Telocity  of  the  bont,  but  were  rooii  in  water  up  to  their  necks,  and  our  boat 
ran  on  ;  but  we  succeeded  in  bringing  her  to  n  small  point  of  rocks  on  the 
right,  at  the  mouth  of  the  cafiinn.  Here  was  a  kind  of  elevated  sand  beach, 
not  many  yards  square,  backed  by  the  rocks,  ond  around  the  point  the 
river  swept  at  a  right  angle.  Trunks  of  trees  deposited  on  jutting  points 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  above,  and  other  marks,  showed  that  the  water  here 
frequently  rose  to  a  considerable  height.  The  ridge  was  of  the  same  de> 
composing  granite  already  mentioned,  and  the  water  hod  worked  the  sur* 
fnc,  n  many  places,  into  a  wavy  surface  of  ridges  and  holes.  We  ascend* 
ed  the  rocks  to  reconnoitre  the  ground,  and  from  the  summit  the  passage 
appeared  o  be  a  continued  cataract  foaming  over  many  obstructions,  and 
broken  by  a  number  of  small  falls.  We  saw  nowhere  a  fall  answering  to 
that  which  had  been  described  to  us  as  having  twenty  or  twenty  five  teet, 
but  still  concluded  this  to  be  the  place  in  qucation  ;  as  in  the  season  of 
Hoods,  the  rush  of  the  river  against  the  wall  would  produce  a  great  rise, 
and  the  waters  reflected  squurely  off,  would  descend  through  the  passage 
in  a  sheet  o(  fuam,  having  every  oppearance  of  a  large  fall.  Ei^tccn 
years  previous  to  this  time,  as  I  have  subsequently  learned  from  himself, 
Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  somewhere  above  on  this  river,  had  embarked  with  a  val- 
uable cargo  of  beaver.  Unacquainted  with  the  stream,  which  he  believed 
would  conduct  him  safely  to  the  Missouri,  he  came  unexpectedly  into  this 
cafion,  where  he  was  wrecked,  with  the  total  loss  of  his  furs.  It  would 
have  been  a  work  of  great  time  and  labor  to  pack  our  baggage  across  the 
ridge,  and  I  determined  to  run  the  canon.  We  all  again  embarked,  and  at 
first  attempted  to  check  the  way  of  the  boat;  but  the  water  swept  through 
with  so  nmch  violence  that  we  narrowly  escaped  being  swamped,  and  were 
obliged  to  let  her  go  in  the  full  force  of  the  current,  and  trust  to  the  skill  of 
the  boatmen.  The  dangerous  places  in  this  cafion  were  where  huge  rocks 
had  fallen  from  fibove,  and  hemmed  in  the  already  narrow  pass  of  the 
river  to  nti  open  space  of  three  or  four  and  five  feet.  The.«c  obstructions 
raised  the  water  considerably  above,  which  was  sometimes  precipitated 
over  in  a  fall ;  and  at  other  places,  where  this  dam  was  too  high,  rushed 
through  the  contracterl  opening  with  tremendous  violence.  Had  our  boat 
been  made  of  wood,  in  passins;  'ho  narrows  she  would  have  been  staved; 
but  her  elasticity  preserved  her  unhurt  from  every  shock,  and  she  seemed 
fairly  to  leap  over  the  falls. 

In  this  way  we  passed  three  cataracts  in  succession,  where,  perhaps,  a 
hundred  feet  rf  <«mo(ih  water  intervened  ;  and  ilnally,  with  ii  shout  of  pleas- 
ure at  our  success,  issued  from  our  tunnel  into  the  open  day  beyond.  We 
were  so  deligh  ed  widi  the  perionuance  of  our  boat,  and  so  confident  in  het 
powers,  that  we  wojild  not  have  hesitated  to  leap  a  fall  of  (en  feet  with  iier. 
We  put  to  shore  for  breakfast  at  some  willows  on  the  right  hank,  immediately 
below  the  mouth  of  th-;  cafion  ;  for  it  was  now  eight  o'clock,  and  W'e  had 
been  working  since  daylight,  and  were  all  wet,  fati<jued,  and  hungry.  While 
the  men  were  preparing  breakfast,  I  went  out  to  reconnoitre.  The  view  was 
very  limited.  The  course  of  the  river  was  smooth,  so  far  as  I  could  see; 
on  both  sides  were  broken  hills  ;  and  but  a  mile  or  two  below  was  another 
high  ridge.  The  rock  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon  was  still  the  decompos- 
ing granite,  with  great  quantities  of  mica,  which  made  a  very  glittering  sand. 

We  re-embarked  at  9  o'clock,  and  in  about  twenty  minutes  reached  the 
next  canon.     Landing  oii  a  rocky  shore  at  its  commencement,  we  usceniled 


the  ridge  t( 
could  see,  i 
ing  line  of 
the  rock;  ( 
previous  pi 
wo  afterwa 
i^ucccss  ba( 
Every  thin 
selves  of  t\ 
<!nve  our  cli 
proceed  alo 
up  on  eith( 
like  shore  i 
•«*r.  He,  t 
We  had  m 
and  three  c 
k't  her  dow 
lered  about 
and  skill  to 
boat  proved 
flew  over  u 
forced  her  i 
jod  a  pair  ( 
^ddlebags 
Mr.  Preuss 
put  die  me 
passage  mi 
one.  To 
team ;  and 
almost  to  n 
off  again  ; 
100  great  fc 
tiie  third  m 
rock  about 
:ollowing  i 
mid  chanm 
foam.  Ho 
ing  the  bofi 
he  arrived 
He  had  ow 
liini  and  ill 
other  end  i 
dies  in  our 
•:ommence( 
fail  after  fa 
flushed  wit 
"itement  o 
•"Ringing,  o« 
midst  of  til 
the  foot  of 
•ould  not  s 
our  efiects ; 


71 


[««] 


to  check  the 
and  our  boat 
f  rocks  on  the 
d  sand  beoch, 
he  point  the 
lulling  points 
[ie  water  here 
the  same  de> 
[)rked  the  tur* 
We  ascend' 
it  the  paasage 
itructions,  and 
answering  to 
enty  five  tiect, 
the  scnson  oil 
e  a  great  rise, 
h  the  passage 
ill.     Eif^hteen 
from  himself, 
ed  with  a  val- 
:h  he  believed 
tedly  into  this 
us.     It  would 
age  across  the 
barked,  and  at 
swept  through 
iped,  uad  were 
[  to  the  skill  of 
ere  huge  rocks 
w  puss  of  the 
e  obstructions 
:s  precipitated 
high,  rushed  I 
Had  our  boat 
been  staved ; 
nd  slie  seemed  I 

ere,  peihnps,  a 

slioul  of  plens- 

beyond.     We 

ontideni  in  het 

feet  willi  iier. 
k,  ininiediaieiyj 
:,  and  w-e  had 
ungry.    While 
The  view  was 

1  could  see; 
v  was  another 
the  deconipos- 
glilteriiig  sand. 
3  reached  the 
I,  we  ascended 


the  ridge  to  reconnoitre.     Portage  was  out  of  the  question.     So  far  as  wa 
could  see,  the  jagged  rocks  pointed  out  the  course  of  the  eahon,  on  a  wiad- 
ing  lin#i  of  seven  or  eight  miles.     It  was  simply  a  narrow,  dark  chasm  in 
the  rock;  and  here  the  perpendicular  faces  were  much  higher  than  in  the 
previous  pasa,  being  at  this  end  two  to  three  hundred,  and  further  down,  as 
wo  afterward  ascertained,  live  hundred  feet  in  vertical  height.     Our  previous 
success  had  made  us  bold,  and  we  determined  again  to  run  the  caAon. 
Everything  was  secured  as  firmly  as  possible;  and,  having  divested  our* 
selves  of  the  greater  part  of  our  clothing,  we  pushed  into  the  stream.    To 
save  our  chronometer  from  accident,  Mr.  Preuss  took  it,  and  attempted  to 
proceed  along  the  shore  on  the  masses  of  rock,  which  in  places  were  piled 
up  on  either  side ;  but,  after  he  had  walked  about  five  minutes,  every  tning 
like  shore  disappeared,  ond  the  vertical  wall  came  squarely  down  into  the  wq> 
tr.     He,  therefore,  wailed  imtil  we  came  up.     An  ugly  pass  lay  before  us. 
We  had  made  fast  to  the  stern  of  the  lioat  a  strong  rope  about  fifty  feet  long; 
uod  three  of  the  men  clambered  along  among  the  rocks,  and  with  this  rope 
!(.'(  her  down  slowly  ihrough  the  pass.    In  several  places  high  rocks  lay  scut- 
lered  about  in  the  channel ;  and  in  the  narrows  it  required  all  our  strength 
and  skill  to  avoid  staving  the  boat  on  the  sharp  points.     In  one  of  ihede,  the 
boat  proved  n  liulo  too  broad,  and  .stuck  fnal  (o,  an  instant,  while  the  water 
f^ew  over  us ;  fortunately  it  waa  but  for  an  instant,  as  our  united  strength 
foiced  her  immediately  through.     The  water  swept  overboard  only  a  sextant 
and  a  pair  of  naddle  bags.     I  caught  the  sextant  as  it  passed  by  me  ;  but  the 
saddlebags  became  the  prey  of  the  whirlpools.    We  reached  the  place  where 
Mr.  Preuss  was  standing,  took  him  on  board,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  boat, 
put  the  men  with  the  rope  on  the  succeeding  pile  of  rocks.     We  found  this 
passage  much  worse  than  the  previous  one,  and  our  position  was  rather  a  bad 
one.     To  go  back  was  impossible  ;  before  us  the  cataract  was  a  sheet  of 
team  ;  and,  shut  up  in  the  chasm  by  the  rocks,  which  in  souie  places  seemed 
.\lmo8t  to  meet  overhead,  the  roar  of  the  water  was  deafening.     We  pushed 
off  again  ;  but,  after  making  a  little  distance,  the  force  of  the  current  became 
100  great  for  the  n)eii  on  shore,  and  two  of  them  lei  go  the  rope,    Lajeunesse, 
ihe  third  man,  bung  on,  and  was  jerked  headforemost  into  the  river  from  a 
rock  about  twelve  feet  high  ;  and  down  the  boat  shot  like  an  arrow,  Basil 
;bllowing  us  in  the  rapid  current,  and  exerting  all  his  strength  to  keep  in 
mid  channel — his  head  only  seen  occasionally  like  a  black  spot  in  the  white 
foam.     How  far  we  went  I  do  not  exactly  know  ;  but  we  succeeded  in  turn- 
ing the  boat  into  an  eddy  below.     "  'Cre  Dieu,"  said  Basil  Lejeunesse,  as 
he  arrived  immediately  after  us,  "  Je  crois  bien  que  j'ai  nnge  un  demi  mile.'* 
He  had  owed  his  life  to  his  skill  as  a  swimmer;  and  I  determined  to  take 
him  and  the  two  others  on  board,  and  trust  to  skill  and  fortune  to  reach  the 
other  end  in  safety.     We  placed  ourselves  on  our  knees,  with  the  short  pad- 
dies in  our  hands,  the  most  skilful  boatman  being  ai  the  bow ;  and  again  we 
ommenced  our  rapid  descent.     We  cleared  rock  after  rock,  and  shot  past 
fall  after  fall,  our  liule  boat  seeming  to  play  with  the  cataract.     We  became 
flushed  with  success  and  familiar  with  the  danger ;  and,  yielding  to  the  ex- 
itenient  of  the  occasion,  broke  forth   together  into  a  Canadian  boat  song. 
Singing,  or  rather  shouting,  we  dashed  along  ;  and  were,  I  believe,  in  the 
midst  of  the  chorus,  when  the  boat  struck  a  concealed  rock  immediately  at 
the  foot  of  a  fall,  which  whirled  her  over  in  an  instant.     Three  of  my  men 
"onld  not  swim,  and  my  first  feeling  was  to  assist  them,  and  save  some  of 
our  effects ;  but  a  sharp  concussion  or  two  convinced  nje  that  I  had  not  yet 


[248] 


72 


suiiicwhnt  disheartsned. 
iir  journals  and  regblers 


eaved  myHelf.  A  fow  slrokr*  hrouglil  me  inlo  an  eddy,  and  1  landed  on  a 
pile  of  rucka  on  (he  left  side,  liuoking  oruund,  1  saw  thai  Mr.  Preuie  had 
(gained  (he  shore  un  the  hanie  side,  about  twenty  yards  buluw  ;  and  a  little 
cliinhint;  and  swinunin)(  Hoon  brouglii  him  lo  my  side.  On  the  opposite 
side,  oguin^t  the  wall,  lay  the  boat  bottom  up;  and  Lunibert  was  in  the  act 
of  saving  Descotcaux,  whom  he  had  grasped  by  ilic  hair,  and  who  could  not 
swim  :  "  Lache  pas,"  said  he,  os  I  atierward  learned,  '*  lacho  pas,  chere  frere." 
"  Grains  pus,"  was  the  reply,  "  Jo  m'cn  vuis  inourir  avant  quo  do  te  l&cher.'* 
Such  was  the  reply  of  couroge  and  generosity  in  this  danger.  For  a  hun- 
dred  yards  below,  the  current  was  coveted  with  llouting  books  and  boxes, 
balce  of  blankets,  and  scattered  articles  of  clothing  ;  and  so  strong  and  boil* 
ing  was  the  stream,  that  even  our  heavy  instruments,  which  were  all  in  cases, 
kept  on  tlio  surface, and  the  sextant,  circle,  and  the  long  black  box  of  the  teles- 
rope,  were  in  view  at  once.  For  a  moment,  I  fell 
All  our  books ;  almosl  every  record  of  the  journey 

uf  astronomical  and  barometrical  observations — had  been  lost  in  a  moment. 
l)ul  it  was  no  lime  to  indulge  in  regrets ;  and  I  immediately  set  about  en- 
deavoring to  save  something  from  the  wreck.  Making  ourselves  understood 
OS  well  as  possible  by  Higns,  for  nothing  could  bo  heuid  in  the  roar  of  waters, 
we  commenced  our  operations.  Of  every  thing  on  board,  the  only  article 
that  had  been  saved  was  my  double-barrelled  gun,  which  Dcscoteaux  had 
caught,  and  clung  to  with  drowning  tenacity.  The  men  continued  down 
the  river  on  the  left  bank.  Mr.  I'reuss  and  myself  descended  on  the  side 
we  were  oh  ;  and  Lajcunosse,  with  a  paddle  in  his  hand,  jumped  on  the  boat 
nlone,  ond  continued  down  the  cahon.  Slui  was  now  light,  and  cleared 
every  bad  place  with  much  less  ditliculty.  In  u  short  time,  he  was  joined 
by  Lambert;  and  the  search  was  continued  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half, 
which  was  as  far  as  the  boat  could  proceed  in  the  pass. 

Here  the  walls  were  about  five  himdred  feet  high,  and  the  fragments  of 
rocks  from  above  had  clinked  the  river  into  a  hollow  pass,  but  one  or  two 
feet  above  the  surface.  Through  this  and  the  interstices  of  the  rock,  the 
water  found  its  way.  Favored  beyond  our  expectations,  ail  of  our  registers 
had  been  recovered,  with  the  exception  of  one  of  my  journals,  which  con- 
tained the  notes  and  incidents  of  travel,  and  topographical  descriptions,  a 
number  of  scattered  astronomical  observations,  principally  meridian  alti- 
tudes of  the  sun,  and  our  barometrical  register  west  of  Laramie.  For- 
tunately, our  other  journals  contained  duplicates  of  the  most  important 
barometical  observations  which  had  been  taken  in  (he  mountains.  These, 
with  a  few  scattered  notes,  were  all  that  had  been  preserved  of  our 
meteorological  observations.  Ii:  addition  to  these  we  saved  the  circle,  and 
these,  with  a  few  blankets,  constituted  every  tiling  that  had  been  rescued 
from  the  waters. 

The  day  was  running  rapidly  away,  and  it  was  necessary  to  roach  Goat 
island,  whither  the  party  had  preceded  us  before  night.  In  this  uncertain 
country,  the  traveller  is  so  inuch  in  the  power  of  chance,  that  we  became 
somewhat  uneasy  in  regard  to  them.  Should  anything  have  occurred,  in 
the  brief  interval  of  our  separation,  to  prevent  our  rejoining  ihem,  our  situa- 
tion would  be  rather  a  desperate  one.  "We  had  not  a  norsel  of  provisions, 
our  arms  and  ammunition  were  gone  ;  and  we  were  entirely  at  the  mercy 
of  any  straggling  party  of  savages,  and  not  a  little  in  danger  of  starvation. 
We  therefore  set  out  at  once  in  two  parties.  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  on  the 
left,  and  the  men  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.    Climbing  out  of  the 


our  course, 


7S 


[2481 


<«t>on,  wo  found  uiirtolviM  in  a  very  lirokcn  country,  where  wo  wore  not 
yet  nhle  to  rorognizo  any  locality.  In  the  coium  oI  our  dencrnt  tliroiigh 
i\w  cofint),  tho  rock,  which  at  llu)  upfwr  ond  wum  of  the  docomjNNiinK  (<ranito, 
clmngud  into  a  varied  sandstone  lorniation.  The  hills  nna  points  of  the 
ridi(us  were  covered  with  frnginents  of  a  yellow  sandstone,  of  which  the 
strutn  were  sonietiinen  displayed  in  tho  broken  ravines  which  interrupted 
our  course,  and  made  our  walk  extremely  fatiguing.  At  one  point  of  the 
caflon,  tho  red  argillaceouH  sandstone  rose  ni  a  wall  of  fiv*  hundred  feet, 
Mirmoiintcd  by  n  strotuin  ot  white  sandntone,  and  in  an  opposite  ravine  a 
column  of  red  sandstone  rose  in  form  like  a  steeple,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  hiffh.  The  scenery  was  extremely  picturesque,  und  notwuhstand* 
iiig  our  Ibrlurn  condition,  we  were  frequently  obliged  to  stop  and  admire 
It.  Our  progress  was  not  very  rapid.  Wo  had  emerged  from  tho  water 
liulf  naked,  and  on  arriving  at  the  top  of  the  precipice,  I  found  myself  with 
only  one  moccasin.  The  fragments  of  rock  mauo  walking  painful,  and  1 
was  frequently  obliged  to  slop  and  pull  out  tho  thorns  of  tho  cactus,  hero 
tho  prevailing  plant,  and  with  which  a  few  minute!)  walk  covered  the 
bottom  of  my  teet.  From  this  ridge  the  river  emerged  into  a  smiling 
prairie,  and  dcsconding  to  tho  bank  for  water,  wo  were  joined  by  Uenoist. 
The  rest  of  the  party  were  out  of  sight,  having  taken  a  more  inland  route. 
Wo  crossed  tho  river  repeatedly,  sometimes  able  to  lord  it,  and  sometimes 
swimming;  climbed  over  tho  ridges  of  two  more  cafions,and  toward  even- 
ing reached  the  cut,  which  wo  here  named  the  Mot  {Spring  Gate.  On  our 
previous  visit  in  July  we  had  not  entered  this  pass,  reserving  it  for  our  descent 
ill  the  boat;  and  when  we  entered  it  this  evening,  Mr.  Hreuss  was  a  few 
hundred  feet  in  advance.  Heated  with  tho  long  march,  he  came  suddenly 
upon  a  line  bold  spring,  gushing  from  tho  rock,  about  ten  feet  above  tho 
river.  Eager  to  enjoy  the  crystal  water,  he  threw  himself  down  for  a 
hasty  draught,  and  took  n  mouthful  of  water  almost  boiling  hot.     He  said 

I  uothing  to  Benoist,  who  laid  himself  down  to  drink,  but  tho  steam  from  the 
water  arrested  his  eagerness,  and  he  escaped  the  hot  drau&fht.  We  had  no 
thermometer  to  ascertain  the  temperature,  but  I  could  hold  my  hand  in  the 
water  just  long  enough  to  count  two  seconds.  There  are  eight  or  ten  of 
these  springs,  discharging  themselves  by  streams  large  enough  to  be  called 
runs.  A  loud  hollow  noise  was  heard  trom  the  rock,  which  I  supposed  to 
be  produced  by  the  fall  of  the  water.  The  strata  immediately  where  they 
issue  is  a  Hue  white  and  calcareous  sandstone,  covered  with  an  incrustation 
of  common  salt.  Leaving  this  Thormopylnc  of  the  West,  in  a  short  walk, 
we  reached  the  red  ridge  which  has  been  described  as  lying  just  above 
Goal  island.  Ascending^  this  we  found  some  fresh  tracks  und  a  button, 
which  showed  that  the  other  men  had  already  arrived.  A  shout  from  the 
man  who  first  reached  tho  top  of  the  ridge,  responded  to  from  below,  in- 
formed us  that  our  friends  were  all  on  the  island,  and  we  were  soon  among 
them.  We  found  some  pieces  of  butfalo  standing  around  the  fire  for  us, 
and  managed  to  get  some  dry  clothes  among  the  people.  A  sudden  stomi 
of  rain  drove  us  into  the  best  shelter  we  could  find,  where  we  slept  soundly, 

[after  one  of  the  most  fatiguing  days  I  have  ever  experienced. 

August  25. — Early  this  morning  Lajeunesse  was  sent  to  the  wreck  for 

I  the  articles  which  had  been  saved,  and  about  noon  we  left  the  island.  The 
mare  which  we  had  left  here  in  July  hod  much  improved  in  condition,  and 

[she  served  us  well  again  for  some  time,  but  was  finally  abandoned  at  a 

Isubseqent  part  of  the  journey.  At  10  in  the  morning  of  the  26th  we  reached 


[i43] 


74 


m 


(>ttoh«  camp,  whtre  wt  fmmd  every  thing  mdistiirbed.  W«  diiiniff^riA 
our  (kpoiit,  arranf^ed  our  cans  whicn  hiul  bv«n  loft  hero  on  th«  way  out, 
and  travdUiiiir  a  i«w  mtlei  in  the  ul'li;  noon,  oncamptd  for  the  night  at  the 
(brd  of  the  Plaltit. 

Aut(u»l  27. — At  nndclay  we  halted  at  the  ptarn  wlure  wu  had  taken  din* 
ner  on  the  27th  of  July.  The  couiiiry,  which  w!  •.  wc  passud  up  lookai 
at  if  the  hard  winter  froats  had  pnsied  over  it,  had  now  nMnnrni'd  a  new 
face,  m  much  of  Turnal  froiihness  imd  liecn  ffiven  to  it  hy  x\w  lato  rain*. 
The  I'Inite  wna  exctM-diuKly  low,  a  iiicro  lino  of  water  amnni^  tl.i!  sand  barn. 
Wfl  reached  liarainui  fort  on  the  Inst  day  of  August,  after  an  .vhsenco  of 
forty-two  dayM,  and  hud  the  picaiiure  to  And  our  friends  'ill  well.  The 
fortiedi  day  had  houn  fixed  for  our  roiiirn,  nnd  tlio  miick  oyoM  of  the  Iiiiltnnf, 
who  wore  on  thf>  lookout  for  ua,  di8cov(<i<-d  our  m^  as  we  wound  amon^ 
the  hillii.  The  tort  Maluttd  ua  with  n>p«nted  diNchnrgcii  of  ita  «iii£fle  pit  >. 
which  we  returned  with  ncattered  vollies  of  oui  small  ttrmt,  ru  I  telt  ilu, 
joy  of  a  home  reception  in  gutting;  back  to  tlii^  remote  stuiiuti,  which  ei^emed 
so  far  off  as  wo  went  out. 

On  liie  morniiiy[  of  the  3d  of  SaptemlHT  wn  bnde  adieu  to  oiir  kind  u  iends 
at  the  fort,  and  coiitmucd  our  homeward  journey  down  ih<  Plat  •,  which 
waa  glorious  with  the  autumnal  iiplcndor  of  iniiumumblo  dowoi  <  in  full 
and  brilliant  bloom.  On  the  warm  sanda,  amonjcr  the  Mian(/ii,  one  r>f  ihe 
characteristic  plaut«,  we  saw  great  niimbera  of  ratth^ainakoa,  of  which  live 
or  bix  were  killed  in  the  morning's  ride.  We  occupied  our.^<'lves  in  im» 
proviuf^  our  previous  survey  of  the  river ;  and,  ns  the  weather  was  fine,  as- 
tronomical obacrvntions  were  generally  tnado  at  night  and  nt  noon. 

Wc  halted  for  a  short  time  on  the  afternoon  of  the  5th  with  a  village  of 
Sioux  Indians,  some  of  whose  chiefs  wc  had  mot  at  Laramto.  The  water 
in  'ho  I'latie  was  cxiretiiely  low;  in  many  places  the  largo  expanae  of 
HandH,  with  some  occasional  i^tiinted  trees  on  the  banks,  gave  it  dio  air  of 
tho  soacoast,  the  Ixfd  of  the  river  being  merely  a  succession  of  sandbars, 
among  ivliicli  tho  channel  was  divided  into  rivulets  a  few  inclicN  deep. 
We  crossed  and  rocrnssed  with  our  carts  repeatedly  and  at  our  pleasure, 
and  whenever  an  obstruction  barred  our  way,  in  the  shape  of  precipitous 
bluffs  Uiat  came  down  upon  the  river,  wo  turned  directly  into  it,  ni  i  made 
our  way  along  the  sandy  bed,  with  no  other  inconvenience  than  ilio  fre- 
quent quicksands,  which  greatly  fatigued  our  animals,  insintorring  on 
the  way  the  cache  which  had  been  made  by  our  party  when  they  ascendtid 
iIk  river,  we  rea'zhed  without  accident,  on  the  evening  of  the  I2th  of  Sep- 
tember, our  old  encampment  of  the  2d  of  July,  at  tho  junction  of  the  forks. 
Our  cache  of  the  barrel  of  pork  was  found  undisturbed,  and  proved  ■  '^^ 
sonable  addition  to  our  stock  of  provisons.  At  this  place  I  had  deteruuntd 
to  make  another  attempt  to  descend  the  Platte  by  water,  and  accordingly 
spent  two  days  in  the  construction  of  a  bull  boat.  Men  were  sent  out  on 
the  evening  of  our  arrival,  the  necessary  number  of  bulls  killed,  and  their 
skins  brought  to  the  camp.  Four  of  the  best  of  them  were  strongly  sewed 
together  with  bnft'ulo  sinew,  and  stretched  over  a  basket  frame  of  willow. 
The  seams  were  then  covered  with  ashes  and  tallow,  and  tho  boat  left  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  for  the  greater  pait  of  one  day,  which  was  sufficient  to  dry 
and  contract  the  skin,  and  make  the  wholo  work  solid  and  strong.  It  had  a 
rounded  bow,  was  eight  feet  long  and  five  broad,  and  drew  with  four  men 
about  four  inches  water.  On  the  morning  of  the  loth  we  embarked  in  our 
hide  boat,  Mr.  Pieuss  and  myself,  with  two  men.     We  dragged  her  over 


the  sands 
cnt.rely  a 
ihe  India 
ever  mor 
braska,  oi 
little  IvUi 
tweniy-oi 
Platte,  an 
where  we 

On  tlio 
with  an  a 
«mall  omi 
floods  of 
with  an  e 
tor  A  milil 

On  the 
lii^ht  ban  I 
They  wer 
come  sup] 

The  ni 
the  place 
broad,  wit 
Plattr,  wh 
formation, 
the  water 
the  opjxisi 
of  tho  rive 
left  bank  < 
During  th 
the  bad  \\ 
latitude,  a 
mouth  of  I 

Five  or 
to  Hcllevu 
of  the  Ain^ 
lers  in  com 
the  afternr 
by  Mr.  Si 
which  gav 
progress, 
iruble  und 
confluence 
our  reckon 
from  Fort 

From  tl 
numerous 
mg,  as  we 
the  except 
rally  witlu 
with  a  prol 
tile  reniiiin 
Hoods.     T 


7a 


[248  J 


the  sAiida  f  r  three  or  fnar  milci,  and  then  !<  *'x  htr  on  a  har,  and  abandontd' 
«nt.rely  all  further  Micmpt)*  to  n»vi^at«  ihii  nver.  The  namea  iriv«!n  by 
the  liidians  atr  olwnyN  rciiiarknhly  appropriate,  and  crrtainly  iiune  waa 
(rfer  inori)  so  ihnn  that  which  ihey  have  given  to  ihii  stream,  '*  thp  Ne- 
braakn,  or  Shallow  river."  Walking  iifodily  (he  nuMiindor  of  (he  day,  » 
little  In  |r»r«  dark  wo  ovrfook  our  |«onlo  nl  their  'jvcrmig  ramp,  almiii 
tweruyonn  milcN  below  tlio  junction,  'rho  next  morning  wr  i^aaed  ih« 
IMatte,  and  continued  our  wnv  down  the  river  bottom  on  lliu  left  bank^ 
where  we  Uu  m]  nn  excellent,  pinuily  beaten  roiuJ. 

On  tfiH  18ti  we  reoched  (irond  i«lond,  whi«:h  ia  fifty-two  miU's  long» 
with  nn  .-ivcra,  fiondih  uf  on*  mile  and  three  quartorN.  It  liaN  on  it  aom* 
«niall  eminetK-  and  is  suthciently  elevated  to  ho  Hecuru  from  the  annual 
tloodi)  of  the  (iver.  As  hns  \mn  already  rf*inarked,  it  is  woll  timbered, 
with  ail  fxcullent  soil,  and  i  t'omiiK  ndn  ilaeM  lu  notice  n;:i  tht*  best  poiiii 
lor  a  military  position  on  thi>  Low  r  I'liitto. 

On  the  22d  we  arrived  ni  (he  village  of  ilifl  (trand  Pounee*,  on  lh« 
lij^lil  bonk  of  iho  rivnr, about  ifiirty  miles  above  um  mouth  of  the  liOiip  fork. 
They  were  gathering  in  tlieir  corn,  niid  we  oblnined  from  them  a  \fty  wel- 
come supply  of  vegeiablfj. 

The  morning  of  the  24ih  vvn  en  iird  (ho  Iioup  fork  of  the  IMatte.  At 
ibe  place  where  we  forded  it,  ihiH  ireoni  was  (our  hundred  and  thirty  yor«l« 
broad,  with  ;.  swift  current  of  clear  water,  in  tliis  reaped  dilTeriug  from  (he 
Plattr,  whicli  liao  a  yellow  muddx  i-oloi,  derivH  from  (be  limestone  and  marl 
formaiion,  o(  which  we  have  previonsly  apokuri.  The  ford  wns  diffcult,  as 
the  water  \v;is  -^o  deep  dial  it  ramc  into  (he  body  of  the  carts,  and  we  reached 
the  op|xi-i(e  bunk  after  repeated  atteiiipis,  ascending  ond  decending  the  bed 
of  the  river  in  order  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  bar^.  We  encamped  on  the. 
left  bank  of  the  fork,  in  the  point  of  land  at  its  junc(ion  wi(h  (he  Platte. 
During  the  two  days  that  we  remained  here  for  astronomical  obHerva(ions^ 
the  bad  woatlier  pcr(ni((ed  us  lo  ob(aiii  but  one  good  observation  for  the 
Intiludc,  a  meredian  ahidide  of  tlin  sun,  which  give  for  the  latitude  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Loup  fork,  4»o  22'  1 1 

Five  i>r  six  days  previously  i  had  .^ent  forward  ' '.  Lambert,  with  two  men, 
to  Uellevue,  Willi  directions  to  ask  from  Mr.  1*.  Sarpy,  (ho  gentle?nan  in  charge 
of  ihe  Amcriciui  Company's  establisliinent  at  (hat  place,  tlie  aid  of  his  carpen- 
ters in  constructing  a  boai,  in  which  I  projwscd  to  descend  the  Missouri.  Oti 
tlie  afternoon  of  the  27ili  we  met  one  of  (he  men,  who  had  been  despatched 
by  Mr.  Sarpy  wiih  a  welcome  supply  of  provisions  and  a  very  kind  no(e, 
which  gave  us  (he  very  gratifying  intelligence  that  our  boat  was  in  rapitl 
progress.  On  (he  evening  of  the  .30th  we  encamped  iti  an  almost  impene- 
trable undergiowUi  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Platte,  in  the  ))oint  of  land  at  iN 
confluence  v  ith  the  Missouri,  three  hundred  and  fifteen  miles,  according  to 
our  reckoning,  from  the  junction  of  the  forks,  and  five  hundred  and  twenty 
from  Fort  Laramie. 

From  the  junction  we  had  found  the  bed  of  the  PIa(te  occupied  witb 
numerous  islands,  mony  of  them  very  large,  and  all  well  timbered  ;  posses?- 
iiig,  as  well  as  (he  bottom  lands  of  the  river,  a  very  excellent  soil.  With 
the  exception  of  some  scattered  groves  on  the  bank?-',  the  bottoms  are  gene- 
rally without  timber.  A  portion  of  these  consist  of  low  grounds,  covered 
with  a  profusion  of  tine  grasses,  and  are  probably  inundated  in  Che  spring ; 
the  remaining  part  is  high  river  piiiiiie,  entirely  beyond  the  influence  of  thi 
floods.     The  breadth  of  the  river  is  usually  three  (juarteis  of  a  mile,  except 


^^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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1.0     [^li&  lii 

"*  m  12.2 

£  us  no 


Fhobgraphic 

Sdmces 
CorpOTalion 


23  WBT  MAM  STMIT 

WIBSTIt,N.Y.  14SM 
(716)872-4S03 


'^ 


c^ 


[248] 


76 


'where  it  is  enlorged  by  islandc.  That  portion  of  its  course  which  is  occupied 
by  Gnuid  island,  has  an  average  brr  tdth,  from  shore  to  shore,  of  two  and  a 
half  miles.  The  breadth  of  the  valley,  with  the  various  accidents  of  ffround^ — 
springs,  timber,  and  whatever  I  have  thought  interesting  to  travellers  and 
•ettlem— you  will  find  indicated  on  the  larger  map  which  accompanies 
this  report. 

October  1. — I  rose  this  morning  long  before  daylight,  and  heard  with 
a  feelini;  of  pleasure  the  tinkling  of  cow-bells  at  the  settlements  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  Missouri.,  Early  in  the  dav  we  reached  Mr.  Sarpy's  resi- 
dence;  and,  in  the  security  and  comfort  of  his  hospitable  mansion,  felt  the 
pleasure  of  being  again  within  the  pale  of  civilization.  We  found  our  boat 
on  the  stocks ;  a  few  days  sufficed  to  complete  her ;  and,  in  the  afternoon  of 
the  4th,  we  embarked  on  the  Missouri.  All  our  equipage,  horses,  carts,  and 
the  materiel  of  the  camp,  had  been  sold  at  public  auction  at  Bellevue.  The 
strength  of  my  party  enabled  me  to  man  the  boat  with  ten  oars,  relieved  ev- 
ery hour ;  and  we  descended  rapidly.  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  lOth, 
we  halted  to  make  some  astronomical  observations  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kan> 
zas,  exactly  four  months  since  we  had  left  the  trading-poet  of  Mr.  Cyprian 
Chouteau,  on  the  same  river,  ten  miles  above.  On  our  descent  to  this  place, 
we  had  employed  ourselves  in  surveying  and  sketching  the  Missouri,  making 
astronomical  observations  regularly  at  night  and  at  midday,  whenever  the 
weather  permitted.  These  operations  on  the  river  were  continued  until  our 
arrival  at  the  city  of  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  on  the  17th ;  and  will  be  found, 
imbodied  with  other  results,  on  the  map  and  in  the  appendices  which  accom- 
pany this  report.  At  St.  Louis,  the  sale  of  our  remaining  eflfects  was  made ; 
and,  leaving  that  city  by  steamboat  on  the  18th,  1  had  the  honor  to  report  to 
you  at  the  city  of  Washington  en  the  29th  of  October. 

Very  respectfully,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  C.  FREMONT, 
2d  Lieut.  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers, 


^rr 


nd  heard  with 
lents  on  the  op- 
ir.  Sarpy'9  reii- 
ftnsion,  felt  the 
found  our  boat 
he  afternoon  of 
arses,  carts,  and 
Sellevue.  The 
irs,  relieved  ev- 
ig  of  the  lOth, 
iith  of  the  Kauo 
of  Mr.  Cyprian 
nt  to  this  place, 
lissouri,  making 
,  whenever  the 
inued  until  our 
I  will  be  found» 
IS  which  accom- 
sets  was  made ; 
mor  to  report  to 


CATALOGUE  OF  PLANTS 


COLLECTED 


BY    LIEUT.    FREMONT, 


•  ■  <  ..■ 

'  !  : 
- 


IM  Hit 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


BY  JOHN  TORREY. 


r 


>f';f  .': 


h  ■  ,0' 


PREFACE. 


The  collection  of  plante  lubmilted  to  me  for  examination,  though  mudc  under  unfavorable 
«iroumitancn,  li  a  Tory  Intereeling  contribution  to  North  American  Rotanjr.  From  the  mouth 
of  the  Kaiizai  river  to  the  •'  Red  Buttet"  on  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  the  tranttportation 
was  effected  in  carta ;  but  from  that  place  to  and  from  the  mountains,  the  explorations  wen 
made  on  horseback,  and  by  auch  rapid  movemenlt,  (which  were  nereswry,  in  order  to  accom- 
plish the  objects  of  the  expedition)  that  but  little  opportunity  was  uflbrded  for  collecting  and 
drying  botanical  specimens.  Besides,  the  party  was  in  a  snvage  and  inhospitable  country, 
sometimes  annoyed  by  Indians,  and  frequently  in  great  distress  from  want  of  provisions ;  from 
which  circumstances,  and  the  many  pressing  duties  that  constantly  engaged  the  attention  of  the 
commander,  he  was  not  able  to  make  so  large  a  collection  as  he  desired.  To  give  some  gen- 
eral idea  of  the  country  explored  by  Lieut.  Fremont,  I  recapitulate,  froin  his  report,  a  brief 
sketch  of  his  route.  The  expedition  left  the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas  on  the  lOth  of  June,  1843,  and 
proceeding  up  that  river  about  one  hundred  miles,  then  continued  its  course  generally  along 
the  "  bottoms"  of  the  Kanzas  tributaries,  but  sometimes  passing  over  the  upper  prairies.  The 
soil  of  the  river  bottoms  is  always  rich,  and  generally  well  timbered  ;  though  the  whole  region 
is  what  is  called  a  prairie  country.  The  upper  prairies  are  an  immense  dcposite  of  sand  and 
gravel,  covered  with  a  giMHl,  and,  very  generally,  a  rich  soil.  Along  the  road,  on  reaching  the 
little  stream  called  Sandy  creek  ''a  tributary  of  the  Kanzas),  the  soil  became  more  sandy-  The 
rock-formations  of  this  region  are  limestone  and  sartdstonc.  The  ^nvtrpka  caneaetna  was  th(> 
characteristic  plant ;  it  being  in  many  places  ast  abundant  as  the  grass. 

Crossing  over  from  the  waters  of  the  Kanzas,  Lieut.  F.  arrive;!  at  the  Great  Platte,  two  hun- 
dred and  ten  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  AlissQuri.  The  valley  of  this  river,  from  its 
mouth  to  the  great  forks,  is  about  four  miles  broad,  ahd  three  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  long- 
It  is  rich,  well-timbered,  and  covered  with  luxuriant  grasses.  The  purple  Lialris uarioaa,  ani 
neveral  Jtittn,  wore  here  conspicuous  features  of  the  vegetation.  1  was  pleased  to  recognup 
among  the  specimens  collected  hear  ihe  fitrks,  the  fine  large-flowered  Ascleplas,  that  I  described 
many  years  ago  in  my  account  of  Jataes*s  Kocky  Mountain  Plants,  under  the  name  of  A.  spteiota, 
and  which  Mr.  Geyer  also  found  in  Nicollet's  expedition.  It  seeins  to  be  the  plant  subsequently 
Kiescribed  and  figured  by  Sir  W.  Hooker,  under  the  name  of  .4.  Douglarii.  On  the  Lowei- 
^latte,  and  all  the  way  to  the  Sweet  Water,  the  showy  CUomi  inUgryfoHa  occurred  in  abon- 
dance.  From  the  Forks  to  Laramie  river,  a  distance  of  hbout  two  hundred  miles,  the  country 
may  be  called  a  sandy  one.  The  valley  of  the  North  fork  is  without  timber;  but  the  graaac* 
are  fine,  and  the  herbaceous  plants  abundant.  On  the  return  of  the  expeilitiun  in  September, 
Lieut.  Fremont  says  the  whole  country  resembled  a  vait  garden ;  but  the  prevailing  planta 
'were  two  or  three  species  of  HtlimAui  (subflower).  Between  the  main  forks  of  the  Platte, 
frori)  the  junction,  aS  high  up  as  Laramie's  fork,  (he  formation  consisted  of  ikiarl,  a  soft  earthy 
litaestohe,  and  a  granite  sandstone.  At  the  latter  place,  that  sihgular  leguminous  plant,  the 
ktntrophyta  mofUoM  of  Niittill  was  first  seen,  and  then  o<^cnrred,  at  intervkb,  to  Oie  Sweet 
Water  river.  Fbllowing'ttp  the  North  fork,  Lieut.  Fremont  arrived  at  the  moatb  tif  the  Sweet 
"IVater  rivfer,  6n^  of  tk^  bead  watbrs  of  the  Pta'tte.  Above  Lara'miiB's  fork  to  tkia  place,  the 
Mil  is  generally  sandy.  The  rbeks  consist  of  limastbne,  with  a  variety  of  sandstones  (yelloW, 
gny,  and  red  argQl'aeebus),  with  eo'mlpact  gypsum  or  iiab'aster,  and  fine  conglomerates. 

The  ir«ute  aloiig  the  IVorth  fork  of  the  Platte  aflorded  some  of  the 'best  plahts  in  Hm  eoUee- 
4ioD.    The  Sinctw  rapifolUi,  Nutt.,  occurred  in  many  places,  quite  to  th«  Sweet  Water }  Lippia 


[243] 


80 


!■ 


(Zafumia)  emu{fblia  (Torr.  in  JuBM*t7pl«nts.  only  known  bcfort  from  Dr.  JtmM*i  eoIlMtioa;) 
Ctrcotmrpui  p»rv\fhliwi,  Null. ;  Eriogvnum  p«n\folium  and  c«^««um,  Null. ;  ShephtrdU  mrgtntMr 
Nult.,  and  Gtranium  fVmonlii,  »  new  ipccie*  (near  Ihe  R«d  Bultei),  were  found  in  tbi*  part 
of  the  Journey.  In  saline  loklii,  on  llie  Upfier  Platto,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  wert 
Golleotad  leferal  intcreiting  CHBNoroDUcajc,  one  of  which  was  Ant  dluovered  by  Dr.  Jamei, 
in  Long'i  Expedition  ;  and  although  it  wat  conttdered  aa  a  new  genua,  I  did  not  daarribe  it, 
owing  to  the  want  of  the  ripe  fhiit.  It  ii  the  plant  doubtfully  referred  by  Hooker,  in  bia  Flora 
Boreali  Americana,  to  Batia.  He  had  Mcn  the  male  flower*  only.  A*  it  it  certainly  a  new 
genua,  I  have  dedicated  it  to  the  excellent  commander  of  the  expedition,  at  a  welt^merited 
compliment  fur  the  lervicet  bo  hat  rendered  North  American  Botany. 

The  Sweet  Water  valley  it  a  «undy  plain,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  milea  long,  and 
generally  about  Ave  milet  broad ;  bounded  by  rangea  of  granitic  mountaina,  between  whloh,  the 
Tallcy  formation  coniiata,  near  the  Devil'a  gate,  of  a  grayiah  mioaeeout  aandatooe,  with  marl 
and  white  clay.  At  the  encampment  of  Augiut  5th-6th,  there  ocourrrd  a  Ane  white  aiigUla- 
ceoua  aanditone,  a  cuarae  aandatone  or  puddingatone,  and  a  white  calcoreoua  aandatone.  A 
few  milea  to  the  weat  of  that  poaition,  Lieut.  F.  reached  a  point  where  the  aandatone  retted 
immediately  upon  the  granite,  which  thenceforward,  along  hia  line  of  route,  alternated  wl;h  a 
compact  mica  slate. 

Along  the  Sweet  Water,  many  interesting  plantt  were  collected,  at  may  be  teen  by  an  exam* 
ination  of  the  catalogue;  1  would,  however,  mention  the  curiout  (Enotktra  M\MaHi,  Torr.  and 
Or. ;  Eurolia  lanata,  Mocq,  (Diotit  lanatn,  PuiiA;,  which  seemt  tu  be  diatinct  from  £.  etrati^i; 
Tktrmopiu  montano,  Nutt. ;  Gilia  pvkhtUa,  Dougl. ;  Stiueio  sparlioidtt,  Torr.  and  Gr.,  a  new 
iipeciea,  and  four  or  Ave  species  of  wild  currants  (Ribtsirriguum,  Dougl.,  &c.)  Near  the  mouth 
of  the  Sweet  Water  was  found  the  Plantago  triopkora,  Torr.,  a  apeciet  Ant  detcribed  in  my  Dr. 
James'a  Rocky  Mountain  Plvnts.  On  the  upper  part,  and  near  the  dividing  lidge,  were  col- 
lected  aeveral  apecioa  of  Caatilltja ;  PtnUtetnon  micranUut,  Nutt. ;  teveral  OtntUmt ;  the  pretty 
little  »9ndrosaee  oceidtntalis,  Nutt. ;  Solidago  incana,  Torr.  and  Gr. ;  and  two  species  of  £rtcyo- 


nttm,  one  of  which  was  new. 


On  the  8th  of  August,  the  exploring  party  crossed  the  dividing  ridge  or  pass,  and  found  the 
toil  of  the  plains  at  tlie  foot  of  the  mountains  on  the  western  tide  to  be  tandy.  From  Laramie's 
fork  to  this  point,  different  speciet  of  Artemisia  were  the  prevailing  and  characteristic  plants ; 
occupying  the  place  of  the  grasses,  and  Ailing  the  air  with  the  odor  of  camphor  and  turpen> 
tine.  Along  Little  Sandy,  a  tributary  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  were  colleoted  a  new 
speciet  of  Pkaea  (P.  Agitata),  and  Panuariafimbriata. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  August,  they  entered  the  deAles  of  the  Wind  River  mountaina, 
a  apur  of  the  Rocky  Mountaina  or  Northern  Andes,  and  among  which,  they  spent  about  eight  dayt. 
On  the  borders  of  a  lake,  embosomed  in  one  of  the  defiles,  were  collected  Stdum  Rhodiola,  UC. 
(which  had  been  found  before,  louth  of  Kotzebue'a  Sound,  only  by  Dr.  James) ;  Sttucio  ky 
drofkilvs,  Nutt. ;  Vaceinium  uligiiummt ;  Betula  glanduUoia,  and  B.  ocddtnUUis,  Hook. ;  EUtignut 
argentta,  and  Shephtr^  Canadensis,  Some  of  the  higher  peaks  of  the  Wind  River  mountaina 
rise  1,000  feet,  above  the  limits  of  perpetual  anow.  Lieut.  Fremont,  attended  by  four  of  hit 
men,  ascended  one  of  the  loftiett  peaks  on  the  15th  of  Auguit.  On  thit  he  found  the  snow  line 
12,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sei.  The  vegetation  of  the  mountains  is  truly  Alpine,  em- 
bracing a  considerable  number  of  species  common  to  both  hemispheres,  as  well  as  some  that 
are  peculiar  to  North  America.  Of  the  former,  Lieut.  Fremont  collected  Phleum  alpinuat ; 
Oxyria  ren\formit ;  Veronica  alpina ;  several  tpecies  of  Salix ;  Cartx  atnUa ;  C.  ptaaeta ;  and,  im- 
mediately below  the  line  of  perpetual  congelation,  SiUnt  aeaulit  and  PoUmonxwn  •oruleum,  B 
Hook.  Among  the  alpine  plants  peculiar  to  the  western  hemisphere,  there  were  found  On- 
«]>Mto  myrt^/blia,  Nutt. ;  .tf^iMlegia  esni/ea,  Torr. ;  Pcdtcuteru  nurtcla,  Benth. ;  Pvimonmna  ctltata, 
James;  SUme  Drummondii,  Hook. ;  Mtmit^  empttriformiif  PotenHUa gracMt,  Dougl. ;  aeveral 
species  of  Ptnw ;  Pratera  iptciota,  Hook. ;  IMkcatkeon  dtntatum,  Hook. ;  Phlox  muieoides,  Nutt. ; 
Stneeio  Frenumtii.  n.  sp.,  Torr.  and  Gr. ;  four  or  five  Mtrs,  and  Vaecimum  myrtiUoides,  Mx. ;  the 
last  seven  or  eight,  very  near  the  snow  line.    Lower  down  the  mountain  were  found  Arnica 


81 


r243] 


mn*teoUMtioa;> 
VupkniU  mrgmtiur 
found  in  this  pwrt 
weet  W«ter,  w«ra 
red  by  Dr.  Jmdm, 
id  not  dMrribc  it, 
Doker,  in  bia  Tion 
ia  cerUinljf  ■  Mw 
u  *  wen-owritod 

ly  milM  long,  and 
wtwecD  which,  the 
nditoM,  with  marl 
fine  white  aiiKUia- 
oiM  sanditone.  A 
e  sandstone  rested 
I,  alternated  wi.h  a 


tmifmt\fulia,  Valil ;  Sinfrio  Iriaiic^ilnri*,  lliiolt. ;   >S'.  lubnudtu,  l)C  ;  MitrnrhifncStu  troximoiJt$, 
Torr.  and  Gr. ;  HtHanlhtlla  unyhra,  Torr.  and  Or,  and  l.inotffrin  vheidijlora,  lloolc. 

The  expedition  left  the  Wind  River  moiintuin*  ubout  llie  18th  of  August,  returning  by  th« 
name  route  as  that  by  which  it  a»cended,  exrapt  that  it  continued  its  course  through  the  whole 
length  of  the  liOWtr  Platte,  arriving  at  its  Junction  with  the  Missouri  on  the  1st  of  October. 

As  the  plants  of  I.ieut.  Fremont  were  under  examination  while  the  last  part  of  the  Flora  of 
North  America  was  in  the  press,  nearly  all  the  new  matter  relating  to  the  Composite  was  in- 
serted  in  that  work.  Descriptions  of  a  few  of  the  new  species  were  necessarily  omitted,  owing 
to  ttte  Report  of  the  Expedition  having  been  called  for  by  Congress  before  I  could  finish  the 
necessary  analyses  and  comparisons.  These,  however,  will  be  inserted  in  tlie  successive  num^ 
ben  of  the  work  to  which  I  have  Just  alluded.  * 

JOHN  TORREY. 

Niw  York,  Marth,  1643. 


e  seen  by  an  exam- 
Ma<«/H,  Tprr.  and 
,  trom  E.  ctrat(Mti ; 
irr.  and  Or.,  a  new 
)  Near  the  mouth 
iescribed  in  my  Dr. 
Ing  I  idge,  were  col- 
itntiaiu ;  the  pretty 
>  species  of  Erv)g(^ 

pass,  and  found  the 
From  Laramie's 

aracteristic  plants ; 

raphor  and  turpen- 
collected  a  new 

River  mountains, 
nt  about  eight  days. 
tdum  Rhodiola,  DC. 
ames);  Stneeio  Ay- 
Hook.;  EUagnut 
River  mountains 
ided  by  four  of  his 
bund  the  snow  line 
truly  Alpine,  em- 
well  as  some  that 
Phltum  olpinum  ; 
panicea ;  and,  im- 
lumium  taruUvm,  B 
were  found  On- 
Pulmonaria  eiliata, 
I*,  Dougl. ;  seTcral 
mtucouies,  Nutt. ; 
trtiUoidtt,  Mx. ;  the 
vere  found  ^ntca 


1  W-- 


^^  W  I       .ff 


'i 


M 


CATALOGUE  OF  PLANTS. 


Clam  I.— EXOGENOUS  PLANTS. 

AANUNCULACEJC 

CltmatU  Vlrginkmt  (Una.)    Vallej  of  th«  Platto.    Jitn«,  July. 

Jtanuncwiui  Krltraltu  (Linn.)    Valley  of  tha  Swaat  Water  rWer.    Au|ust  18-90. 

R  CymMtfia  (Punh).    Upper  Platte.    July  31,  Auguit. 

^quiUgit  tmruka  (Torr.)    Wind  River  mountalM.    August  13-16. 

^ffaa  ru»r«  (Blgel.)    Upper  Platte.     Aufuit  96-31. 

ThtUutrum  Comuti  (Linn.)    Platte. 

T  mtgacarpum,  n.  fp.    Upper  Platte.    Auguit  96-31. 

• 
MENIBPERMACEiE. 
JUtnifptrmnm  CanedttiK  (Linn.)    ijCavei  only.    On  the  Platte. 

BERBERIDACEiG. 

Btrbtri)  Jqu\folium  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Wind  River  mountaini.    Augutt  13-16. 

PAPAVERACEiE. 

Jrgmont  JItxieana  Q  alMfior*  (DC  )    Forki  of  tiie  Platte.    July  9. 

CRUCIFERA- 

^•iturtiumjMluiln  (DC.)    Black  HUU  of  the  Platte.    July  96-Augu«t. 

£ryiimum  duiranUtMu  (Linn.)    Blaok  Hillt.    July  93. 

£.  upmm  (Nutt.)    South  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  4. 

PachypMNum  (Thelypodium,  Bodl.  gen.  p.  876,)  integrifoUum  (Nutt.)   North  fork  of  the  Platte. 

September  4.     Var.  with  longer  podi.    With  the  preceding. 
Fcficaria  <ii4<ynMearpa  (Hook.)    Leaves  only.    North  fork  of  the  Platte,  >  iv.  f  the  Red  Buttes. 

July  30. 
Brt^  n.  tf.    Wind  River  mountains,  near  the  Ikaiti  of  perpetual  snow.    August  15. 
LtpMvm  Tviitrtit  (Linn.)    On  the  Platte.    June  99. 

>  J.jsa    .'  CAPPARlDACEiC 

Clttmt  intffri/Uia  (Torr.  and  Or.)    From  the  Lower  Platte  nearly  to  the  mountaini.    June  99, 

July  9,  Aug.  91. 
J>«{eniiia  (rad^qwrme,  jg  (Torr.  and  6r.)    Bla^k  HUli  of  the  Platte.    July  83. 

P0LTOALACE£. 
P«i)fal«  otts  (Nutt.)    P.  Beyriehii,  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Forki  of  the  Platte.    July  9. 

DR08ERACE£. 

PanuMie  Jtmbrieta  (Banki.)    Little  Sandy  creek,  deflles  of  the  Wind  River  mountaini.    Aug.  8. 

CARYOPHTLLACE£. 

t^MMria  tvnguU  (Nutt.)    Highest  parts  of  the  Wind  River  aountaini.    Aug  13-16. 

Minw  DrummomKi  (Hook.)    With  the  preceding. 

S.  acouiit  (Linnl)    Wind  Rirtr  movintaini,  at  the  limits  of  perpetual  snow.   . 


[248] 


84 


fr 


PORTtfLACACKT- 
T(Uinum  p«rt\/lontm  (Null.)    Little  lllu*  rivir  of  lh«  Ktniu.    Jun«  M> 

LINAGES. 

Utium  rigiilum  (Piinh).     North  fork  of  Iha  PUlta     July  6 

L.  pntntu  (Linn. )    Black  IIIIU  to  tha  Hwect  Wttar  of  tho  Piatt*.    Aug  8-31. 

OERANIACiLC. 

Otranium  PrmtnHi,  n.  qi.    Bla^k  Ililli.    Aug.  96-31. 

OXALIDAGEO:. 

OMalii  ttrUla  (Um.)    On  the  Ktntu.    Jun«. 

ANACARUIA(  EiC. 
JUuilr<io6ala(Nutl.)    Red  Buttn.    July  W. 

MALVACEiT.. 
Mah*  ptdaU  (Torr.  and  Or.)    BIk  Blue  rWer  of  the  Kaniat.    June  81. 
M.  invofuerele  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kaniaa.    June  83. 
aUm  teecitua  (DC.)    Little  Blue  river  to  the  South  fork  of  the  Platte.    June  Sa-Julj  4. 

VITACEA 
Viti$  ripmU  (Miohi.)    Grand  bland  of  the  Platte.    Bept.  19. 


if: 


ACERACEj:. 

Mgundo  aciroMfi  (McBnoh.)    On  the  lower  part  of  the  Platte. 

'  .**'..■ 

CELASTRACEiG. 
•OrtopMla  myrt\fi>Ha  (Nutt.)    Summit  of  the  Wind  River  mounUini.    Aug.  li-U. 

RHAMNACEiC. 

-Ctanutkm  ululiitixu  (Dougl.)    With  the  preceding. 

•€.  ^nMricontu,  var.  languineus.    C.  aanguineua  (Punb).    On  the  Pl#te. 

<!.  moUinimui,  n.  ip.    Near  the  Kanaai  river.    June  19.  . ,  ^, 


■  .f 


LEOUMlNOSiE.  ,     ,  ' 

X«i(%nu  litMffWf  (Nutt.)    On  the  Platte,  from  its  confluence  with  the  MiMourl,  to  Port  La^ 

amie.    Sept.  9-30. 
Jimfhkarpaa  monoiea  (Torr.  and  Or.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    Sept  4. 
«4pios  lu6<roM  (Moepch.)    Forks  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  13. 
<ibjt\fnhita  kpidota  (Pursh).    From  near  the  Kaniaa  river  to  the  Bia«k  HUb  of  th9  Platte. 

June 91-July 85.  '.    r  ,.,<» 

fmaUaJMbundaiSM.)    Forki  of  the  Platte.    July  9. 

P.  eampeatrU  (Nutt.  ?)  and  a  more  glabroua  variety.    With  the  preceding.    July  8. 

P.  {mo(ota(a(Pursh).    Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.    July  84. 

P.  argophylla  (Punh).    Little  Blue  river.    June  38. 

P.  (mwi/lora,  (Pursh).  (no  flowers).    Forks  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  19. 
,P(<ai«teaMn«iolac«im(Michz.)    Big  Bkie  river  of  the  Kaasas,  Cc.    June3L   .   ^,^,,^-j 

P.  eandidvm  {i/lic\ix.)    Red  Buttes.    July  99. 

*9morj)hafiryUieoM  (Linn.)    From  the  Ltower  Platte,  to  the  mountains.    Aug.  8-Sept  19. 

»4.  ceMOMM  (Nutt.)    Kansas  and  Lower  Platte  rivers.    June  19-Sept.  90. 

Ltsptdexa  eapUata  (Mlchx.)    Mouth  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  30. 

i)emodium  aeumnatwn  (DC.)    Little  Blue  river  of  th*  Kansas.    June  39. 


8S 


[«4»J 


11. 


«  M-Julj  4; 


1}-14. 


.  I't','  t   ■•! 


iMourl,  to  Fort  Lar- 

Hills  of  the  PUtte. 
Jwly  8, 

91.   . 
g.  8-S«pt  19. 


...   * 


.Urft*u  fratilit  (Null.)    Fork*  of  (h«  PUlto.    July  t. 

.f  miiUimtmH*  (Turr  )    Valley  of  (Im  PUt(#      luna  99. 

.1.  HfftftotlinUnn.)    ■wtcl  WkUr  of  tha  PlatU.     Auf.  S. 

()fVlr«|Hi  f.«m*«rlM  (Purth).     flic  Ulua  rivtrof  ih«  Kpmm  to  lh«  forki  of  tho  PUlt*.    Jun« 

90-July  9. 
0  PtatUn»i$(fiuttJ){nofU>wn).    Goat  UUnd  of  lh«  Upp«r  PIttu.    July  SI. 
fStft  Mlr^aliwi  (DC.)    lilRhatt  lummiu  of  tha  Wlmi  RWar  mountaia.    Aug.  15. 
/>.  iltgant  (Hook.)  var  >    Goal  itiand  of  iha  Uppar  PlatU.    July  31. 
P.  ( (hrviih»ta)  tligU»t»,  n.  ip.     Llltia  Handy  rtf ar.    Aug.  8. 
P.  UngifiiU*  (Null.)  (Iaavi<«  only).     Wind  RWer  mountaina.    Aug.  19-17. 
Ktnlroithyla  montana  (Nutt)     Laramie  rivar  to  the  Sweat  Water.    July  14-Aiig.^. 
iMfiinut  UuruphyUut  (LIndl.)    Wind  Ki«er  mountain*,  and  Hwaat  Water  of  Ilia  rlatta.    Auf. 

4-'JI. 
/.,  ern«i(iu  (Dougl.)    L.  laucopali  (Agardh.)    With  the  preoadlng. 
Bai'tlaia  ttueanlka,  (Torr.  and  Gr.)    Kaniai  river. 
TVrmopit  mon^arM  (Nutt.)    Sweet  Water  river.     Aug.  5. 
VMia  tkamaicriit*  {lAnn.)    Muuth  of  tha  Platte.    Sept.  90. 
St^krankia  uneinata  (Willd.)    Kama*  and  Platte  rivF-<.    Juna  19-Sept. 
lUtrlingtonia  brachypodu  (DC.)    On  the  Platto.    Sept.  17. 

ROSACEA. 

frroiui  yirgiMana  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Upper  North  fork  of  tha  Flatt*.    July  SO. 

Ctrcocwrpxu  parv{/blitu  (Nutt.)    Bitter  creek,  North  fork  of  tha  Platla.    July  99. 

PuriMatridtnUta  (DC.)    Sweet  Water  river,  lus.    Aug.  19-B«pt. 

Ufum  Virglnianum  {Unn.)    Kaniias  river.    Juna  90. 

Sibbatdia  proeumhtni  (Linn  )    Wind  River  mountaint,  near  perpetual  mow.    Aug.  13-14. 

PdtoUiMfl^aeUii  (Dougl.)    With  the  preceding. 

P.  divtr>{thlia  (Lehm.)    Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte  to  the  ntounlaini.    Aug.  4-19. 

P.  ^tricta  Q.  glabrata  (Lehm.)    WiUi  tha  preceding. 

P.  /riUicoM  (Linn.)    With  the  preceding. 

P.  .inuHna  (Linn.)    Black  HilU  of  tha  Platte.    July  96-31. 

/'  argiua  (Purih).    Little  Blue  river  of  Uie  Kama*,  and  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.    Juna  03- 

Aug.  98. 
Jlufttu  itriffotut  (Michx.)    Defile*  of  the  Wind  Rivar  mountaini.    Aug.  13-17. 
.hntlanchiir  divtn^folia,  var.  alnifolla,  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte.    Aug.  5. 
Ru<aMamia(Ait.)    Lower  Platte. 
R.  fvliolosa  (Nutt.)  var.  leiocarpa.    With  the  preceding. 

ONAORACEA. 

£pUobium  coloratum  (Muhl.)    Black  Hills  of  the  Platte  to  the  Sweet  Water  river.    Aug.  4-31. ' 
£■  fpicatim  (Lam.)    From  the  Red  Suites  to  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-31. 
(Enotktra  albuttulis  (Nutt.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  14. 
(E.  J^isMurietuii  (Sims.)    Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.    June  19-30. 
(E.  trickocalyx  (Nutt.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  30. 
(E.  strrulata  (Nutt.)    On  the  Kanzos  and  Platte.    June— July  14. 
(E.  rhombipetata  (Kntt.)    Onths  Platte.    September  18-90. 
(E.  bitnnis  (Linn.)    Black  Hills  to  the  Sweet  Water  River.    July  93— August  4. 
(E.  (  Taraxia)  Mutallii  (Torr.  and  Gr.)    Upper  part  of  the  Sweet  Water. 
(E.  aptcioia  (Nutt.)    Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kanza^.    June  19—30. 
(E.  Drummondii  (Hook..>)     Black  Hills.     July  36. 

(iaura  cofcinea  (Nutt.)    Var.  ?    Little  Blue  River  of  the  Kanza<i,  and  south  fork  of  the  Platte 
June  26— July  4. 


t«4S] 


86 


I' 


MnUuU*  Ritifa  (Turr.  ttui  (it  >    North  fork  of  iho  PUiu.    July  U 

UHOlMlTLAOKir 

I 

Hikti  Mr*vm  (l.intll.)  IwMt  Walir  of  Iho  TUiU.     Aniual  9-4 

A.  bfiMfrt  (Tolr)     With  Iha  prt#t<iin(.    J.  !»•»«•  drvply  lulwtl       R    ft^inalum  rOougl ) 
P«rli»|t4  •  ilUUnct  «p««l*«. 

B.  lrHf|iiim(l)o«igl.)    With  the  prnraillng. 

CACTACEit; 

0||>urWu  ^Huow^^nlU  (DC.)     Forki  of  Iho  PUtU.     July  9 

rRAM8tri,Acr./f:. 

.v>(i<»i  RA<kW<i  (DC)    On  a  litka  la  Wind  Htvar  mnunUttn     Augutt  13-17. 

rMBrxLireRir.. 

ihratltum  Innaium  ( Mirhx. ')    l^»y**  only.    Th«  IcMai  tra  more  gUtirou*  lltko  in  th«  nnlmsry 

form  of  th«  plant.    Alpine  rrgltin  of  the  Wind  RIvar  mountain*. 
I'lAytanit  AWMhi  (IX:.)    On  the  Ksniai.    June  M. 
Mum  ?  it^ifum,  n.  tp.    Htain  tuloate ;  MKmentii  of  the  leave*  dittant,  deeply  Incited  or  pin* 

natlAad  ;  tin  lower  teeth  or  dlvlilon*  often  alongatad  and  linear.— North  fork  of  Ihn  IMatte, 

July  19. 
HiUmnU  UMnhuri  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Without  frulU  • 

CioUa  mnculata  (lAnn.)    I <ower  Platte. 
Muunlum  ltnu\foUum  (Nutt.)    Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  Rivar  mountain*. 


CORNACEiC. 

rnmui  iili)lim[frra  (Michx.)    On  a  laka  In  tha  Wind  Rivar  mountains. 
C.  circituiia  (L'ller.)    On  the  Piatta. 


Aufuit,li)-17. 


CAPRIPOLIACEif:. 

Symithnricaqiiu  occUltnliU'u  (R.  Brown).     North  fork  of  the  Platte.     July  10— Aug.  31. 
S.  tnt^nri)  (Michx.)    DcAles  of  the  Wind  Rivar  mountain*.    Augu«t  13-14. 

RUBIACEiG. 

flnllum  bnrtalt  (Linn)    Upper  part  of  the  north  fork  of  the  Platto.    Aug.  13-31- 

COMPOSITii:.  .,.   . 

ViryumlafueUulala  (Michx.)    On  the  Platte. 

tAatrU  aearioM  ( Willd.)    Lower  part  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  V. 

/..  ipiea<a(Willd.)    North  fork  of  tha  Platte.    Sept.  4. 

L.iqMrroia,yiit.inttrmidla  (DC.)    A  imall  form  of  the  plant.    On  the  Platte. 

/..  punctata  (Hook.)    Black  llilU  of  the  Platte.     Aug   39. 

BrickeUia  grand\ftora  (Nutt)     North  fork  of  the  Platte. 

.liter  integri/ultiu  (Nutt.)     Boae  of  the  Wind  River  mountaini. 

.1.  aJaetndtns  (Ltndl.)    Wind  River  Mountaini.    Var.  Fremontii.    With  the  precoding,  tlie 

highest  summiu  to  Uie  limits  of  perpetual  mow.    Aug.  16. 
^1.  latn$  (Linn.)     North  fork  of  the  Platte. 
^.  MmirBtlgii  (Unn.)    Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte.    Aug.  39. 

J.  cordlfolim  (Linn.)    Lower  Platte.  .     <  .',.     «^. « 

Jl.  multiflmu,  ^.  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Upper  Platte,  lie. 
.^l.  fakatut  (Lindl.)    Black  Hillt  to  the  Sweet  Water.    July  3)— Aug. 
^.  (oxt/Wiui  (Noes.)    On  the  Platte,  from  its  mouth  to  the  forks.    Sept.  13-30. 


■\u 


.f  «MMfM( 

.f  .flWlNM  \ 
.(f/Mi«Nl( 

.1  tl'gmni  ('I 
.1  fUntut  (' 
IMtH*  irlwii 

/)  tnnntnp^n 

l>  pulttruUt 

Hiigrrut,   ('4t 

of  MrpUni 

H  murrnnlhu 
H  flithtltwn 
H  itilgmiHm 
(luUftrnia  f 

.*<  MifMOtirtn 
>•*.  iptclwia  (J 

*  t'trga-mm 
lifliKhl  of  7 

>.  inrana  (T( 
*■  Kiganlta  (I 
/.iii«iy»ii  frat 
I,   ritrlilijiurit 

•  Ijili'imppu^  tfi 

93- Aug.  31 

Clmj^itHHi  At  J 

('■  m««U(Ni 

/in  aj'l//ai'ii  ( 

fViimiWa  difc 

l.rjiarhijii  rolui 

BiUMmtnrhiia 

Hfliiinlhni  i>ft 

H.  Mnximilia 

llilianlhttla  u 

Cortnpiii  Unci 

Cnmidium  gr 

BiJnu  connali 

U\jmn\n\uipp» 

,'klinrUa  gran 

Miillta  Mltle 

'Irltmiiia  Mrti 

.1  caiio  (Pun 

•1.  tridtnlala 

>1.filifutia  ( 

Sept.  3. 
>?.  Canadenri 
*1.  Ludovicim 
.«.  frlgida  {W 
.1  Lewisii  (1 
iftephanointria 


naium  ( Dougi ) 


I  III  Ut«  onlinarjr 


knoiMti  or  pin> 


I  I'i-n 


Au|.  91. 


31 


». 


c  precodin;,  the 


8T 


[«48] 


.f  <i*f«fi/(Mwi  (^fuu.'^  i.owtt  n««u,  kt. 

.1  Aivit^lNtf^i.*  (I4hn.)    Lo»«r  PUlU  in  lh«  Wtnrf  Rivar  MixinltliM     Auf    14— l<pt.  fli. 

J.  JhuHnm  (Nuit )    N*ar  ih*  mow  lln*  uf  ih«  Wintt  Ri««r  mwnUiM.     Auf.  If. 

.1  f/Mi«Mi  (Null)     Wllb  III*  pr»<>«4lng. 

.1  MitHfiiiMMi  (Htchnnlt.)     Wlih  iliv  |ir««<«ilin( 

,f  ff'fvM*  (Torr.  tml  Or.)     WiimI  Hi««r  miMinUtM. 

.1  tl»ttf*"  (Torr.  «nil  <»r.)    Wild  ihi>  |irvci>iliii|, 

IMirU  tiHM*  (Null. )     On  tlM  Piall* 

/).  loronff^tlU  ( Null. )     VN  ilb  Ui«  prrcnUng. 

/)  fultfrul,t%t»  (Null  )     Nmr  I).  ■•Mlliriora.     Willi  Ilia  prarmiint 

f.r\strm,  ('«iM<4ritM  (l.inn  )    Oil  Ilia  I'UlU,  froM  nakT  lU  Bouih  lu  Ilia  RaU  BulUi.   Ltttar  part 

uf  Mi>pi«nili#r  lo  July  30. 
i;  »fH/i/i«i/rMW  (Null.)    On  Ilia  Plallr. 
r.  mmr^ihum  (Null.)     Wllh  llir  prarcitlng. 
i;  t^tlMUum  (Null.)     Wllh  Ilia  pracadlng. 
F.  itrlgotim  ( Muhl. )     Willi  Iha  precatllng. 

(luHnrnla  F.iiihmniit  (Torr  nml  Or. )    l,ttnimi«  rivnr,  uppar  norlh  fork  of  Uia  Plalla.     8«p(.  I. 
MiJnKo  rijfUn  (l.lnii)     Norlh  forlh  of  Iha  PlatU. 

.V  MiKwtrifitrit  (Null.)     Korl  Larunila,  norlh  fork  uf  Ina  Platlc.    July  U,  to  th«  mounlaim. 
H.  tpeclMa  (Null.)     Upper  I'lalla. 
y  f'trga-aurta  (Linn.)  var.  mulliraillala,  (Turr  ami  Or.)      Wind  Rivar  mountain,  from  Ui* 

hfliithl  of  7,U0U  feat,  lu  |Mfrpaliitl  mow. 
5.  inetna  (Torr.  and  (>r  )     Hwaet  Wulrr  rIvar. 
A  giXtnlia  (l.inii )  var.  ^;.     t'rum  tlia  I'latln  lo  Iha  mounlain«. 
/.mutyiit  |riir«a/rni  (Torr.  and  Or  )    Swaat  Walar  river.    Aug.  80 
/..  rljrli/|/l</rit  (Hook.)     t'pp«r  i'lutli*. 

.f)i/»/ia;>;iiii  •/iniu/ritiM  (!M,'.)     Fort  I.itrumie,  north  fork  of  Iha  Platta.    Rapt.  9. 
Viinitrlia  lufuanoM  (Dunul).    t'p|H'r  north  fork  of  Iha  Platte,  and  on  Iha  Dwoat  Water.    Julj 

99- Aug.))  I. 
rimjHoiMt  Hi»i>Uta  (lloiik.)    On  Iho  Platta. 

('.  m<./(ij(Null.)    With  the  precpding.    Too  near  Cyb/ioM,  (Null.) 
/ill  (wlHaiii  (Piir«h).    Hwccl  Woicr  rin-r.     Aug.  3.  '      ' 

fViiriMrla  ditcolitr  (Null.)    Near  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
I.rjuirhijf  folumnitHi  (Torr.  and  fir.)    Little  Blue  river  of  Uic  Kaniu«.     June  86. 
BdMmorrkisa  ingilhta  (Null.)     Wind  Rivar  mountaJD*. 
llrlnmlhHi  jHtiolam  (SuH.)     HIark  IlilU  of  the  Platte.     July  86. 
//.  ^/ajimWianJ  (Srhrad.)     With  the  preceding.  ,. 

Hitianlhtlta  un{flnra  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Wind  Rivar  mountain*. 
('9r<ojwi,i»i«f/(ir<fl(Nutt.)     On  tho  Platte. 
('(wmi(//um/jTnfi/f  (Torr.  and  fJr  )     Upper  Platte. 
Aii/rtii  cvnnafa  (Muhl.)     With  the  preceding. 
tlynunitimpinu  cornmhomi  (Torr.  and  Gr.)    With  the  preceding. 
,'kliniUa  grand{llnra  (Torr.  and  Or.)  n.  »p.     Wind  Rivor  mount  jtni. 
MilUa  MiUtfolium  (Linn.)    A.  lanoaa.    (Nutt.)    Upper  Platte  to  the  mountaini. 
.'Irlrmitlii  bintnii  (Willd  )     On  the  Platte. 
.1  cana  (Punh).    Without  flowers.     With  the  preceding. 
•1.  tridtnlata  (Nutt )    On  the  Sweet  Water,  near  the  mountatDn. 
,1.  fil{i'uUa  (Torr.)    South  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  north  fork,  to  Laramie  river.    Julj  4- 

Sept.  3. 
.1.  Vanadfiuis  (Michx.)    With  the  preceding. 
.4.  Liu/mciaii(i,  (Nutt.)    Black  II ilU  of  the  Platte.    July  96. 
.1.  /W/fidd  (Willd.)    Black  HilU  to  tho  mountaini. 
.1.  /^wWi  (Torr  and  Gr.  ?)    No  flowers.    On  the  Plalle. 
iftephanotturia  runcinata  (Nutt.)    Up|)er  Platte. 


[248] 


88 


'<i 


Cn«ithMlium  uliginenm.    (Linn.)    Var.  foliit  angustioribui.    Sweet  Water  rWer. 

G.  jmluitrt  (Nutt.)    $.    (Torr.  and  Or.)    With  the  preceding. 

•frnica  Mgu$tijbHa  (Vahl.)    A.  fulgeM,  (Punh).    DeAle*  of  the  Wind  River  mounUine,  ttvm 
7,000  feet  and  upwards.    August  13-14. 

Sttueio  trianguhrU  (Hook.)    /g.    (Torr.  and  Gr.)    With  the  preceding. 

S.  nifrnuAu  (DC.)    With  the  preceding. 

8.  FrmotUU  (Torr.  and  Or.)  n.  sp.    Highest  parts  of  the  mountains,  to  the  region  of  per- 
petual snow.    Aug.  15.  • 

S.  rapifoUiu  (Nutt.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte  and  Sweet  Water.  \ 

5.  lanetolattu  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  n.  sp.    With  the  preceding. 

S.  kydropKUm  (Nutt.)    On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13- 17. 

S:  ipurtioidti  (Torr.  and  Or.)  n.  sp.    Sweet  Water  river.    Aug.  SI. 

Cacalia  tubercia  (Nutt.)    Upper  Platte. 

«.  filifoliui  (Nutt.)    /2.    Frcmontii,  (Torr.  and  Or.)    Lower  Platte. 

Tttradymia  itunnis  (Nutt.)    Sweet  Water  river,  from  its  mouth  to  the  highest  parts  of  the 
Wind  River  mountains. 

Cirnum  tUlitrimum  (Spreng.)    Lower  Platte. 

Crtpli  glauea  (Hook.)    Upp4«r  Platte. 

JVIaerorkynehuB  (Stylopappui)  troximoidts  (Torr.  and  Gr.)    Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains; 
Aug.  13-14, 

^uilrcdittmpidc^Uum  (Torr.  and  Gr.)    Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.    July  95-31. 

Lygodemia  jwteta  (Don).    Upper  Platte. 

Troximon  parvyiorum  (Nutt.)    Sweet  Water  river,  near  the  mountains. 

LOBELIACEiE. 

tA^elia  ipUata  (Lam.)    On  the  Lower  Platte.    June  38. 

L.  riphUUica  (Linn.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  4.  .  .^  . 

CAMPANULACEiE. 

Campanula  rotundifolia  (Linn.)    Lower  Platte.  ,  • 

Sptculmia  ampUxieaulia  (DC.)    Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas. 

ERICACEiE. 

Phyllodoce  tmpehrifonnis  (D.  Don).    Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-16. 
Vaccinium  myrHUoidea  (Hook.)    Wind  River  mountains,  in  the  vicinity  of  perpetual  snow. 

Aug.  15. 
V.  uliginosum  (Linn.)    With  the  preceding. 
,1rto$taphylo$  Uva-uni  (Spreng.)    On  a  lake  in  the  mountains.    Aug.  13-17< 

PRIMULACEiE. 

Dodtcatheon  dentatum  (Hook.)    Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-1 6. 
^indrosaet  occidentalis  (Jintt.)    Sweet  Water  river.    Aug.  5.  i.   .  • 

Lj/simac/iia  ci<ta(a  (Linn.)    Forks  of  the  Platte.    July  2.  ' 

Claiix  maritima  (Linn.)    Upper  North  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  31. 

.  •       ,     -      ff    'v    ■■  ■■■I   '■"'  ''■■'■:.    ■!  -■ : 

SCROPHULARIACEiE.  , 

Orthocarpus  Mem  (Nutt.)    Sweet  Water  river.    Aug.  5. 

Jfimulus  alsinoides  (Benth.)    Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-16. 

.V,  Lewisii  (Pursh).    With  the  preceding. 

CaaliUeja  pallida  (K\mih).    Sweet  Water  river.    Aug.  8.       ''    '    '''  "       ' 

C.  miniola  (Benth.)    Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-16.     There  are  two  or  three  other 

species  of  this  genus  in  the  collection,  which  I  have  not  been  able  to  determine. 
Veronica  alpina  ff.  (Hook.)    Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Pentstemon  albidum  (I/utt.)    Forks  of  the  Platte.    July  2.  '  '     '  '     ^    "  '  •  ' 

J*.  cceruUim  (Nutt.)    South  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  4. 


P.  mitrmtUh\ 
PiStulmiMi 
GtrmHmlm 


Orekaneht  fi 


Monmrdafitt 
Teuerium  C 
Lycopua  tinu 
Slaekyt  atptt 
SeuttUaria  g 
Mentha  Cant 
S*lvia  axuret 


Lippia  etine\f 
fork  of  th 
yerbena  striei 
y.  haslata  (L 
V.  braeteata  { 

Pultnonaria  e 
mountains, 
Oiwsmodium 
BtUsehia  Gnu 
Jlyoiotis  glom 


Eutoea  strieei 
Phacelia  leuei 
racemes  ni 
July  30.  1 
lines  wide 
forming  a 
strongly  hi 
much  exse 
hispid,  inci 
seed  oblon: 
leaves  bein 
the  whitish 

Phlox  muscoid 

mountains. 

P.  Hondii  (Ri 

P.  pilosa  (Nu 

PoUmonium  c 

Hook.)    I 

f'ilia  fCantm 

0.  pulchella  ( 

0.  ineonspicui 

from  the  0 


•Wer. 

r  mounUint,  (Ironto 


the  region  of  per- 

f 


17. 

ghest  parts  of  the 

]  River  mountains. 
31. 


Aug.  13-16. 

f  perpetual  snoTr. 


13-16. 


3-16. 


V 


wo  or  three  other 
rmine. 


89 


p.  miermtukwn  (Nutt.)    Sources  of  the  Sweat  Watfir,  near  the  mounUins. 
PtJ&euUmi  ntrrtcUt  (Benth.)    DeAles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug. 
CtrwrdU  UmgijoU*  (Nutt.)    Lower  Platte.    July  93. 

OROBANCHACEiC. 
Onianefu  fascieulata  (Nutt.)    South  forlc  of  the  Platte.    July  4. 


LABIATiE. 
JtcnmrdttJittiaoBa  (Linn.)    On  the  Platte. 
Teuerium  Canaderut  (Linn.)    With  the  preceding. 
Lyeopus  linuattu  (Ell.)     With  the  preceding. 
Slackys  aiptra  (Michx.)    Forks  of  the  Platte.    July  3. 
SeuttUaria  galtHeulata  (Linn.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte. 
Mentha  Canadetu'u  (Linn.)     With  the  preceding. 
Stlvia  axurta  (Lam.)    Kansas  river  and  forks  of  the  Platte 


[««) 


Aug.  7. 
13-16. 


July  10. 

.    June  19-39,  July  9. 


VERBCNACEiE. 

Uppia  ctmeifolia,  Zapania  cuneifolia  (Ton*. !  in  ann.  Lye.  Nat.  Hist.  N.  York,  9.  p.  334.) 

fork  of  the  Platte.    July  13. 
Verbena  strieta  (Vent.)    With  the  preceding. 
V.  hiutata  {L\nn.)    With  the  preceding. 
V.  braeteata  ( Michx. )    With  the  preceding. 


N. 


334.)    Defiles  in  the  Wind  River 


June  33. 


BORAOINACEiE. 

Pulnunaria  eiliata  (/ames ;  Torr.  in  ann.  Lye.  N.  York,  3.  p. 

mountains.    Aug.  13-15. 
Onosmodium  moUt  (Mkhx.)    On  the  Platte.    June  39. 
Baiuhia  Gmtlini  Michx. )    Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas. 
Myosotii glonuriUa  (Jiutt.)    Forks  of  the  Platte.    July  3. 

HYDROPHYLLACEE. 

£u(oca  stricea  (Lehm.)     Wind  River  mountains! 

Phacelia  lexKophylla,  n.  ip.  Whole  plant  strigosely  canescent ;  leaves  elliptical,  petiolate  entire; 
racemes  numerous,  scorpioid,  densely  flowered. — Goat  Island,  upper  North  fork  of  the  Platte. 
July  30.  Perennial. — Stems  branching  from  the  base.  Leaves  about  two  inches  long,  and  6-8 
lines  wide  ;  radical  and  lower  cauline  ones  on  long  petioles ;  the  others  nr.  .ly  sessile.  Spikes 
forming  a  terminal  crowded  sort  of  panicle.  Flowers  sessile,  about  3  lines  long.  Sepals 
strongly  hispid.  Corolla  one  third  longer  than  the  calyx ;  the  lobes  short  and  entire.  Stamens 
much  exserted ;  filaments  glabrous.  Style  3-parted  to  the  middle,  the  lower  part  hairy.  Ovary 
hispid,  incompletely  3-cellad,  with  3  ovules  in  each  cell.  Capsule,  by  abortion,  one  seeded  > 
seed  oblong,  strongly  punctate.  Nearly  related  to  P.  integrifolia  (Torr.) ;  but  diflers  in  the 
leaves  being  perfectly  entire,  the  more  numerous  spikes,  one-seeded  capsules,  as  well  as  in 
the  whitish  strigose  pubescence  of  the  whole  plant. 

POLEMONIACEiE. 

Phlox  muscoides  (Nutt.)    Immediately  below  the  region  of  perpetual  snow,  on  the  Wind  River 

mountains.    Aug.  15. 
P.  Hoodii  (Richards.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  8. 
P.  pilosa  (Nutt.)    Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.     June  30. 
Pokmoniiim  eanUeum  (Linn.,  Hook.)    Red  Buttes  on  the  Upper  N.  fork  of  the  Platte.   0  humile 

vllook.)    Highest  parts  of  the  mountains,  near  perpetual  snow.    Aug.  13-15. 
(iiliafCttntm)  lot}giflora{Torr)    Sand  Hills  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  16. 
G  pukhella  (Dougl.)    Upper  part  of  the  Sweet  Water  near  the  mountains.    Aug.  7-30. 
G.  inco)upiciia  (Dougl.?)     Goat  Island,  upper  N.  fork  of  the  Platte.     July  30.    This  differs 

from  the  Oregon  plant  in  Us  fleshy,  simply  pinnatifid  leaves,  with  ovate,  obtuse  segments. 


t248] 


00 


N.  : 


Xi        |i 


i!i1; 


CONVOLVlJLACEif.. 

CalyUtgia  upturn  (R,  Br.)    Forki of  (he  Platta.    July  9. 

fyontaa  Uplnphylla,  n.  sp.  Stomt  branching  from  the  batn,  prostrate,  glabrous,  angular ;  IcavM 
laDcoolate-linear,  very  acute,  entire,  attenuate  at  the  bate  Into  a  petiole;  pedunciea  l-3>llow- 
erod ;  sepals  rounilish-ovnto,  obtuse  with  a  minute  mucro.— Forks  of  the  Platte  to  Laramie 
river,  July  4-Scpt.  3.  Imperfect  specimens  of  this  plant  were  collected  about  the  sources  of 
the  Canadian,  by  Dr.  Jumes,  in  Long's  expedition,  but  they  were  not  described  in  my  aeoouat 
of  his  plants.  The  root,  according  to  Dr.  James,  is  annual,  producing  numerous  thick  pros- 
trate, but  nut  twining,  stems,  which  are  two  feet  or  more  in  length.  The  leaves  are  from 
two  to  four  mches  long,  acute  at  each  end,  strongly  veined  and  somewhat  coriaceous-  Pe- 
duncles an  inch  or  more  in  length,  those  towards  the  extremity  of  the  branches  only  1-flow- 
cred ;  the  lower  ones  bearing  3-3,  and  sometimes  4,  flowers,  which  are  nearly  the  size  of 
those  of  Calystegia  sepium,  and  of  a  purplish  color.  Sepals  approssed,  obout  five  lines 
long.  Corolla  campanulate — funnel  form,  the  tube  much  longer  than  the  calyx.  Stamens 
inserted  near  the  base  of  the  corolla ;  filaments  villous  at  the  base ;  anthers  oblong-linear, 
large.  Style  as  long  a*  the  stamens ;  stigma  9-lobed ;  the  lobes  capitate.  Ovary  3-celled,  with 
two  ovules  in  each  cell. 

SOLANACE/G. 
.Vl^tttrium  luteiim  (Donn  cat.)    South  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  4. 
rhysalis  pitheKfm  {WiM.)    Upper  North  fork  of  the  Platte.     July  23. 
p.  pumila  (Nxxlt.)    With  the  preceding. 

OENTIANACE^.. 

Genliana  ardopkita  /3  densiflora  (Griseb.  ?  in  Hook.  fl.  Bor. — Am.  3.  p  61.)  Sweet  Water  of  the 
Vlatte.    Aug.  4. 

G.  q/^nt4  (Griseb.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  9. 

Ci.  I'netmonanthe  (L'mn.)  Laramie  river  to  Little  Sandy  creek  in  the  mountains.  July  12- 
Aug.  8. 

■Ci.  fVnnontii,  n.  sp.  Stem  branched  at  the  base ;  branches  l-flowered ;  leaves  ovate,  cuspidate,  car- 
tilaginous on  the  margin,  erect ;  corolla  funnel-form ;  plicoe  small,  slightly  2-toothed  ;  capsule 
ovate,  at  length  entirely  exscrted  on  its  thick  stipe. — Wind  River  mountains. — Annual. 
Branches  several,  3-3  inches  long,  of  nearly  equal  length.  Leaves  about  three  lines  long, 
with  a  strong  whitish  cartilaginous  border,  shorter  titan  the  internodes.  Flowers  as  large  as 
those  of  G.  prostrata,  pentamerous.  Calyx  two-thirds  the  length  of  the  corolla ;  the  teeth  about 
'one-third  the  length  of  the  tube.  Plicoe  of  the  corolla  scarcely  one-tiiird  as  long  as  the  lanceolate 
lobes.  Stamens  included ;  anthers  oblong,  somewhat  cordate  at  the  base.  Capsule  in  matu- 
rity, and  after  dehiscence  (in  which  state  all  our  specimens  were  collected),  exserted  quite 
beyond  the  corolla,  and,  with  its  long  stipe,  resembling  a  style  with  a  large  bilamellate  stig- 
ma. None  of  the  capsules  contained  any  seeds.  This  species  \j  nearly  related  to  G.  pros- 
irata  (Haenk.)  and  G.  humil'is  (Stev.),  but  the  former  lias  spatulate  obtuse  recurved  leaves, 
and  the  latter  entire  plicae,  which  are  nearly  the  length  of  the  corolla.  In  G.  humilis,  and  in 
the  allied  G.  squanoaa  (Ledeb.)  the  capsule  is  exserted  after  discharging  the  seeds. 

Swtrtia  perennis,  ^  obtusa  (Hook.)    From  Laramie  river  to  the  Big  Buttes. 

J^-osera  sprciosa,  ( Hook. )    Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-14. 

lAsianthua  Russelianxu  (Hook.)    Lower  Platte  to  the  Forks.     July-Sept. 

APOCYNACE.'E. 

t^lpocynum  cannabinwn  {hinn.)    On  the  Platte. 

ASCLEPIADACEvE. 

Jisclepiaa  speciosa  (Torr.,  in  ann.  Lye.  N.  York,  3.  p.  318. — A.  Douglasii,  Hook.  fl.  Bor.— Am.  2 
p.  53.  t.  143.)    Forks  of  the  Platte.    July  3.    Collected  also  by  Mr.  Nicollet  in  his  North- 


western exp 
collected  by 
vtrtiMlaU{] 
luhtroia(lAi 

mUherix  virii 
mUti  long^fol 
.  MgiuHfoHtu 


huinui  plalya 


JImlago  eWopoc 
.  pwphaloidfs 


hnopodium  tot 
\.  Mum  ( Linr 
I'mt  i.-itMserni 
the  Platte.  . 
[i/cMom«  plalyp 
Sept  4. 
iieia  maritinM  i 
\urolia  tanata  {] 
18-25. 

'tmontia,  D.  ge 
terminal  ame 
date  upward, 
solitary,  axill 
entire,  nearly 
wing.  Ovarj 
two-thirds  co 
ble.  Embryc 
ttrmiciUmris. 
of  the  Platte 
branched  shri 
semiterete,  6- 
inch  long,  cy 
covering  nakt 
leaves.  Ca'y 
lengtii  form  in 
plant,  which . 
sources  of  the 
published  in  t 
niicularis  of  1 
Mr.  Douglas, 
third  localiiy, 
Rocky  Mount 
hardly  be  reff 
sous  heteromi 


tyhaphm  nyctai 
(Nutt.)    Kani 


lis,  angular;  !«•»•• 
peduncle!  1-3-llow- 
Platte  to  Laninie 
bout  the  sourcet  of 
ibed  in  my  account 
imerout  thick  pro»- 
he  leaves  are  from 
it  coriaceou*.  Pe- 
inchei  only  1-flow- 
9  nearly  the  size  of 
d,  about  five  lines 
e  calyx.  Stamens 
;hers  oblong-linear, 
)vary9-celled,wilh 


Sweet  Water  of  the 


ountains.    July  12- 

ivatc,  cuspidate,  car- 
■  2-toothed ;  capsule 
lountains. — Annual, 
mt  three  lines  long, 
Flowers  as  large  as 
9lla ;  the  teeth  about 
)ng  as  the  lanceolate 
Capsule  in  matu- 
ted),  exserted  quite 
ge  bilamellate  stig- 
y  related  to  G.  pros- 
se  recurved  leaves, 
n  G.  humilis,  and  in 
the  seeds. 

-14. 


»ok.  fl.  Bor— Am.  2 
collet  in  his  Nortb> 


91 


[243] 


western  expedition.    Hooker's  plont  diflera  in  no  essential  charaeten  from  my  A.  ipaciota, 
collected  by  Dr.  James  in  ling's  Ant  expedition. 

vtrtUiUal*  (Linn.)    Small  var  ety.    With  the  preceding. 

tuhtroitt  (lAnn.)    Kansas  river.    June  19.  , 

mtkerix  viriMi  (Nutt.)    Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.    June  SO. 
mUi  UmgifoUa  {BID    Polyotus  longifolia.    (Nutt.)    With  the  preceding. 

miguiUfoHw.    Folyotui  angustifolius.    (Niitt.)    With  the  preceding. 

OLEACE>B. 
uiniM  platyeitrpa  (Michx.)    Leaves  only.    Lower  Platte. 


Mago  triopoda  (Torr. 
putphaloUn  (Hutt.) 


PLANTAGINACE/E. 

in  ann.  Lye.  N.  York,  Q,  p.  937.)  Mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water.  July  31. 
Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.    June  34. 


CHENOPODIACE*. 

hfnvpod'mm  toiUrifolium  (Hook.)    Platte.' 

Mum  (Linn.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  12. 
lime  iTnttetni  (Mocq.  Chenop  p.  74  )    Atriplex  canesccns.    (Nutt.)    Upper  north  fork  of 
the  Platte.    July  36. 

ijclotoma  plaiypHyUa  (Mocq.  1.  c.  p.  18.)    Kochia  dentata,  (Willd.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte. 
Sept  4. 

mitt  maritinw  (Mocq.  1.  c.  p.  137.)    With  the  prececding. 

iirottalanofa  (Mocq.  1.  c.  p.  81.)  Diotis  lanata,  (Pursh).  Red  Buttes  to  the  mountains.    Aug. 
18-25. 

■monlia,  D.  gen.  Flowers  diclinous,  monoecious  &?  dioicous,  heteromorphoiis.  Stam.  Fl.  in 
terminal  aments.  Scales  excentrically  peltate,  on  a  short  stipe,  angular,  somewhat  cuspi- 
date upward.  Stamens  3-3-4  under  each  scale,  naked,  sessile ;  anthers  oblong.  Pist.  Fl. 
solitary,  axillary.  Perigonium  closely  adhering  to  the  lower  half  of  the  ovary,  the  border 
entire,  nearly  obsolete,  but  in  fruit  enlarging  into  a  broad  horizontal  angular  and  undulate 
wing.  Ovary  ovate;  styles  thick,  divaricate;  stigmas  linear.  Fruit  a  utricle,  the  lower 
two-thirds  covered  with  the  indurated  calyx,  compressed.  Seed  vertical ;  integument  dou- 
ble. Embryo  flat-spiral  (3-3  turns)  green;  radicle  inferior;  albumen  none. 
ttrmictUaris.  Batis?  vermicularis,  (Hook.)  Fl.  Bor.  Amer.  3.  p.  128.  Upper  north  foik 
of  the  Platte,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water.  July  30.  A  low,  glabrous,  diffusely 
branched  shrub,'  clothed  with  a  whitish  bark.  Leaves  alternate,  linear,  fleshy  and  almost 
scmiterete,  6-12  lines  long  and  1-3  lines  wide.  Staminate  aments  about  three-fourths  of  an 
inch  long,  cylindrical,  at  first  dense,  and  composed  of  closely  compacted  angular  scales, 
covering  naked  anthers.  Anthers  very  deciduous.  Fertile  flowers  in  the  axils  of  the  rameal 
leaves.  Calyx  closely  adherent,  and  at  first  with  only  an  obscure  border  or  limb,  but  at 
length  forming  a  wing  3-4  lines  in  diameter,  resembling  that  of  Salsola.  This  remarkable 
plant,  which  1  dedicate  to  Lieutenant  Fremont,  was  first  collected  by  Dr.  James  about  the 
sources  of  the  Canadian,  (in  Long's  expedition)  but  it  was  omitted  in  my  account  of  his  plants 
published  in  the  Annals  of  the  Lyceum  of  Natural  History.  It  is  undoubtedly  the  Batis .'  ver- 
micularis of  Hooker,  (1.  c.)  collected  on  the  barren  grounds  of  the  Oregon  river  by  the  late 
Mr.  Douglas,  who  found  it  with  only  the  staminate  flowers.  We  have  it  now  from  a 
tiiird  localiiy,  so  that  the  plant  must  be  widely  diffused  in  the  barren  regions  towards  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  It  belongs  to  the  sub-order  Spirolobeae  of  Meyer  and  Mocquin,  but  can 
hardly  be  referred  to  either  the  tribe  Susedinse  or  to  Salsola;,  differing  from  both  in  its  dicli- 
nous heteromorphous  flowers,  and  also  from  the  latter  in  its  flat-spiral,  not  cochleate  embryo. 


cybaphm  nyctaginea    (Torr.  in  Janies 
(Nutt.)    Kansas  river,  June  30. 


NYCTTAGINACEiE. 

Rocky  mountain  plants.  )sCalymenia  nyctaginea* 


^'^• 


A  ; 


I':. 


[248] 


9i 


.fkrenui  nuKiAra  (DougL)    North  fork  of  the  Platte,  July  7-19. 

.}.  (THptnoealjix)  mieranthum,  n.  ip.  Viioid  and  glandularly  pubeMCDt;  IeayeioTata,wiidvlat«, 
obtuM,  acute  at  the  bate,  petiolate  ;  perianth  fUnnel  form,  4*lobed  at  the  lumBtit,  ^-in^- 
drous;  achenium  broadly  3-winged.— Near  the  mouth  of  Sweet  Water  riT«r.  Au(  I 
Annual.  Stem  difi\jMly  branched  (torn  the  base,  beginning  to  flower  when  only  an  Inch  higki 
the  branchei  of  the  mature  plant  above  a  foot  long.  Leaves  1-1|  inch  in  length ;  petiolee  abovt 
a«  long  as  the  lamina.  Heads  axillary.  Involucre  5-leaved,  8'14-flowerad;  leaflets  ovate, 
acuminate.  Perianth  colored  (purplish)  3-4  lines  long;  lobes  semi-ovate,  obtuse.  Stamens 
inserted  in  the  middle  of  the  tube,  unequal  *,  anthers  ovate,  sagittate  at  the  bate.  Ovar; 
oblong,  clothed  with  the  3-wmged  base  of  the  calyx ;  style  Aliform ;  stigma  Aliform<olavata, 
incurved.  Mature  achenium  about  7  lines  long  and  4  wide ;  the  wings  broad,  nearly  equal, 
membranaceous  and  strongly  reticulated.  Seed  oblong.  Embryo  conduplicate,  involving  the 
deeply  3-partcd  mealy  albumen ;  radicle  linear-terete ;  inner  cotyledon  abortive !  outer  om 
oblong,  foliaceous,  concave,  as  long  as  the  radicle.  This  interesting  plant  differs  fVom  its 
congeners  in  its  funnel-form  perianth,  3-4-androus  flowers,  and  broadly  3-winged  fruit,  but  1 
have  not  been  able  to  compare  it  critically  witli  other  species  of  Abronia.  It  may  prove  to 
be  a  distinct  genus. 

POLYGONACEiE. 

Polygonum  Peniearia  (Linn.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  4. 

P.  avtcuiare  (Linn.)    IVith  the  preceding. 

i*.  amphi6ium  (Linn.)    Sweet  Water  river.    August  4. 

P.  viviparum  (Linn)    Black  Hills.    July  96. 

Rumtx  $alie\fbliiu  (Weinn.)    With  the  preceding. 

Oryria  rtntform'u  (Hill.)    Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    August  13-16. 

Eriogonum  ovaltfolium  (Nutt)    Horse-shoe  creek,  upper  north  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  99. 

£.  ettsfitoaum  (Nutt.)    With  the  preceding. 

£.  umbtUatum  (Torr.)  in  ann.  Lye.  Nat.  Hist.  N.  York,  9,  p.  941.  Sweet  Water  river,  Aug.  I 

E.  Frtmontil,  n.  sp.    With  the  preceding. 

£.  annuum  (Nutt.)    North  fork  of  tne  Platte.    September  4. 

£LEAGNACEL£. 
Shtpherdia  argnUea  (Nutt.)    "  Grains  de  bauf."    Upper  north  fork  of  the  Platte,  from  the  Rei 

Buttes  to  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water.    Aug.  94-38. 
S.  Canadttuis  (Nutt.)    On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains.    August  12-17. 
Eltagnus  argtnttxa  (Pursh).    With  the  preceding. 

EUPHORBIACKE. 

Euphorbia  marginata  (Pursh).     Forks  of  the  Platte.  September  11. 

£.  polygonifolia  (Linn.)    South  Fork  of  the  Platte.    July  4. 

£.  cwollala  (Linn.)    On  the  Kanzas. 

£.  obtusala  (Pursh).    Little  Blue  river  of  th^  Kanzas.    July  23. 

PdinopkyUm  capUatum  (Klotsch  in  Wiegem.  arch.  Apr.  1842.)    Croton  capitatum  (Miohx.) 
Forks  of  the  Platte. 

Jlendecandra  7  (Esch.)  m^iflora,  n.  sp. ;  annual  canescent,  with  stellate  pubescence ;  dioecious; 
stem  somewhat  diffusely  and  trichotomously  branched ;  leaves  ovate-oblong,  petiolate,  obtuse, 
entire ;  staminate  flowers  on  crowded  axillary  and  terminal  compound  spikes. — Laramie  river, 
north  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  3-11. — About  a  foot  high.  Fructiferous  plant  unknown, 
with  larger  leaves.  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2.  This  seems  to  be  the  same  as  the  plant 
of  Drummond's  Texan  Collection,  III.,  No.  266. 

SALICIACEiE.  .-     ; 


SaVix  longifolia  (Willd.)    On  the  Platte. 

;^".  Muhlenbergii  (Willd.)    With  the  preceding. 


Several  other  species  exist  in  the  collection: 


some  from 

satisfuetor 

PnpulM  Irtmt 

P.  ttngusl{foUi 

Aug.  91. 
p.  monUifira 


I'/miM  fttlvn  I 
CtUis  crau^fol 


fttuia  glandui 
B.  otciiUntali. 


Piniu  r^i^ia  ( 
F.  undetermii 
and  P.  Lai 
P.  (Abitt)  all 
?,  near  Balsa 
hrApmu  Vir^ 


S^ittoria  Mfil 


VUUmiKera  Itxt 
P-  hyptrborea  ( 
Sjfirantktt  etrt 
*'lj^ietnun  hyet 


Suj/rinc/Uum  a 

AUMiiOvtriin 

RMiomaV« 

ered,  terete 


VueaMgvH{f 
JUliim  rttieHla 
SmUoeinaaelk 


2v«tmut  glm 


eaves  onto,  uadvbto, 
t  the  •ummit,  S4«»- 
VaUr  rWer.  Au|  1. 
ten  only  an  Inch  high  i 
length ;  petiolee  about 
wered;  leaflets  ovate, 
ate,  obtuse.  Btament 
at  the  bake.  Ovarj 
tigma  flUform-olavate, 
s  broad,  nearly  equal, 
iplicate,  involving  the 
n  abortive!  outer om 
plant  differs  Avro  id 
f  3-winged  fruit,  but  I 
ila.    It  may  prove  to 


August  13-16. 
B  Platte.    July  99. 

I  Water  river,  Aug.  7. 


Platte,  from  the  Rel 
1 18-17. 


capitatum  (Miohx.; 

ubescence;  dioecious; 
ong,  petiolate,  obtuse, 
likes. — Laramie  river, 
us  plant  unknown, 
he  same  as  the  plant 


list  in  the  collection: 


03 


[243] 


some  from  the  Platte ;  others  from  tiie  mountains ;  but  I  have  had  no  time  to  determine  them 

islisfuctorily. 
PepiUui  IrtmuMdf)  (Miohs.)     Lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
P.  angmt^foUa  (Torr.  in  ann.  Lye.  N.  Hist,  of  New  Yurk,  9,  |p.  919.)    Sweet  Water  river. 

Aug.  91. 
F.moniliAra  (Ait.)    Lower  Platte. 

ULMACE/C. 


I'lmu*  fiUta  (Miohx.)    I^ower  Platte. 

CtUii  croMaifitlia  (Nutt.)    With  the  preceding. 

BETULACEif.. 

Bttula  glandutoM  (Michx.)    On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  motiptains. 
B.  oetidtntttlis  (Hook.)    With  the  preceding. 

CONIFERiG. 


Aug.  19-17. 


finiu  rigida  (Linn.)    Lower  Platte.    Without  oones.    Leaves  in  threes,  abont  3  inehei  long.  ^ 
P.  undetermined.    DeAles  of  tha  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-14.    Between  P.  Slnbua 

and  P.  Lambertiana.    Leaves  In  S's,  1^-9  inches  long,  rigid.    No  conee. 
P.  (Jilna)  aUta  (Michx  )    With  the  preceding. 
P.  near  BtUaamta,    With  the  preceding.    Leaves  only. 
Jmipenu  Fii^^niona  (Linn.)    Lower  Platte. 


ENDOGENOUS  PLANTS. 

ALISMACEA. 

Sagittaria  aagitl^olia  (Linn.)    On  the  Kansas. 

^«  «.«!.    >si  PRCHIDACE*, 

PUUanthera  Itucopkita  (Lindl.)    Black  Hilb.    July  97. 
P.h}iptrborta(R.BT.)    Laramie  river  to  the  Red  Butte«.    Aug.  96-31- 
SpiraniluM  eemua  (Rich.)    Sweet  Water  river.'  Aug.  7. 
,9pkctnm  hyenule  (Nutt.)    On  the  Platte.    June  99. 

IRIDACE£. 


fci,^U' 


-Vt 


SiiyrineUum  anttps  (Linn.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  13. 

/rli  JViMiinMsis  (Nutt.  in  Jour.  Acad.  Phil;  7,  p.  58.)  In  firuit.  Sweet  Water  river.  Aog.  3. 
RWaomaVei^  thick.  Laavesnarrow,  rigid,  as  long  as  the  scape.  Scape  nearly  naked,  Show- 
ered, terete,  10  inches  high.    Capsules  obldng  obtusely  triangular.    FloweN  not  teen. 

LILIACEA. 

yutca  anjrui({/biia  (Sims).    Laramie  river.    July  14. 

JIlRtm  rttieulatum  (Fras.)    Defiles  in  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  12-17. 

Simkcina  OtUaU  (Desf.)    From  the  Laramie  river  to  the  Red  Buttes.    Aug.  96-31. 

MELANTHACEiE. 

Zjgadmui  jrfoueia  (Nitt.)    Swe«t  Water  river.    Aug. 


fj'  • 


i' 


[  848  1  04 

JUlfCACEA. 

Jhiicm  icMimIw  (Muhl.)    North  fork  of  tho  PUtte.    8«pt.  4. 

COMMBLYNACEiC 

7V«l(Mani{«  Firyinka  (Lion.)  and  t  ntrrow-leaTMl  vartoty.    KaMu  and  Platte. 

CYPERACEA.  ^ 

Ctru  fittvtaita  (Sehk.)    On  th«  Kanut.    Jum. 

C.  aurta  (Nutt.)    Little  Biuo  rirer  of  tha  KaMU.    June  89. 

C.  panicca  (Linn.)   Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  mountain*,  near  perpetual  mow.  Aa|.i 

C.  atrola  (Linn.)    With  the  preceding. 

ORAMINE^. 

Spwtina  cynrnwddei,  (Willd.)    Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.    June  93. 

^riilUm  paUciu,  (Purah).    On  the  Platte.    June  89. 

^gmtii  MiehmuUma  (Trin.)    Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.    June  i)3. 

PUtvm  aljtinvm,  (Linn.)    Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-If . 

Bromui  cUUUui  (Linn.)    On  the  Platte.    June-Aug. 

FtHuca  orina  (Linn.)    Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  19-14. 

Ftttvea  Mttteiu,  (Willd.)    Oa  the  Kansas. 

Pou  Uua  (Haenke.)    With  the  preceding. 

P.  eroeata  (Miehx.  ?)    With  the  preceding.    Spikeieta  3-flewered. 

P.  nrrvala  (Willd.)    On  the  Kansas. 

KotUria  eriftata  (Pars.)    Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas,  and  on  the  Platte  as  high  ai  Lini 

river.    June  QO-July  33. 
DcMhamptia  caipilosa,  (Beauv.)    Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  13-li 
.indropogon  Mopariui  (Miohx.)    Lower  Platte. 
.4.  nutans  (Linn.)    Laramie  river,  N.  fork  of  the  Platte.    Sept.  3-4. 
Hordtumjubatwn  (Ait.)    Forks  of  the  Platte.    July  9. 
£(ymui  Virginkui  (Linn.)    Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.    June  90. 
£.  Canadnuii  ( Linn. )    Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.    June  99. 
Bwktnannia  tructfomk  ( Jacq.)    North  fork  of  the  Platte.    July  99. 

EQUISETACEiG- 

ffttiselum  artenic  (Linn.)    On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains.    Aug.  19-17. 

FILICES. 


JAflMpeMi  oMwa  (Tort,  eompend.  hot  N.  Slates,  p.  380, 1896.) 
WoodsL  Perriniana  (Hook,  and  Orev.  loon.  Fil.  1. 1.  68.) 
tusum,  (Hook.  fl.  fior.— Am.  SI  p.  259.)   On  the  Platte. 


Aspidium  obtusum  (Wl 
Physentatium  (Kaulf.) 


.,J   V  '-  «!.'*'.   •        ;,  ;»ir«i/  itar^iwis  tm.. 


.jifk      .'i-i^!^.1'>tJx'^.a;V':,      ;    .:«W;  ttf-,;* 


nd  Platte. 


p«rp«tual  MOW.  Aa| 

b99. 

S3. 

1.    Aug.  13-If 

Aug.  13-14. 

Platte  «i  high  u  Ltni 
luntaina.    Aug.  13-U 


Aug.  1»-17. 


ipidium  obtuium  (Wl 
ijsematium  (Kaulf.) 


*'a;,  iwsfw  r 


n>»:4  I 


ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  mi 
j«c»ion,  ail 

t^or  (he 
<lie  fuilowi 


( 
( 
( 
( 
I 
( 

The  ra(( 
iiient : 


1  y.  \'  t.  }-  H  I   ,  .,,•     . 


n   t 


hi 


"  Clwoiu 


An  occiii 
Kuiizas  rivi 
rendered  it  i 
June  to  the 
Hrockbank 
was  fourteer 
Jl".05,  hoa 

From  the 
of  which  the 
•liis  watch  \ 
(tides  which 
»ng,  they  np 


07 


[UM] 


REMARKS. 


The  m&M  which  accompany  this  report  nre  on  Flamaleed'e  modiAed  pro> 
jeciion,  aiid  the  longiuid«t  are  referred  to  the  meridian  of  Greenwich. 

For  the  delerniiuaiion  of  oetrouoiiiical  poaitioni  we  were  provided  with 
ilio  following  inttrumenlt : 

One  teluscope,  inngnifyinff  power  120. 
One  circle,  by  Qambeyt  Paris. 
One  sextant,  by  Qaml)ey,  Paris. 
One  sextant,  by  Truughton. 
One  box  chronomeier,  No.  7,810,  by  French. 
One  Bruckbank  pocket  chronumeier. 

One  small  watch  with  a  light  chronometer  balance,  No.  4,632,  by 
Arnold  ic  Dent. 
The  rate  of  the  chronometer  7,S10,  is  exhibited  in  the  following  state- 
ment : 

"  New  York,  May  5,  1S43. 
^'  Cluonometer  No.  7,810,  by  French,  is  this  day  at  noon, 

*»  Slow  of  Greenwicli  mean  time    •  •  11'  4" 

**  Fa$t  of  New  York  mean  time    -  -       Ah  45'  1" 

*'  Loses  per  doy     ....  2"  ,V 

«  ARTHUR  STEWART, 

*'  74  Merchants^  Exchange.^* 

An  accident,  amon?  some  rough  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Katizas  river,  strninea  the  balance  of  this  chronometer  (No.  7,810),  ami 
rendered  it  useless  during  the  remainder  of  the  campaign.  From  the  9th  of 
June  to  the  24lh  of  August  inclusively,  the  longitudes  depend  upon  the 
Brockbank  pocket  chronometer;  the  rate  of  which,  on  leaving  St.  Louid, 
was  fourteen  seconds.  The  rate  obtained  by  observations  at  Fort  Laran^ie, 
]11".05,  has  been  used  in  calculation. 

From  the  24th  of  August  until  the  termination  of  the  journey,  No.  4,632, 
lof  which  the  rate  was  35".79,  was  used  for  the  same  purposes.  The  rate  ef 
jtliis  watch  was  irregular,  and  I  place  but  little  confidence  in  the  few  longi- 
lludes  which  depend  upon  it,  though,  so  far  as  we  have  any  means  of  judg- 
liiig,  they  appeiir  tolerably  correct. 


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St.  U»4s  —  i?ffW</fNe«  of  CW.  /  B.  Brant. 

DITBKMINATIOfI  Of  TIMB. 

May  t4,  t842.~Alliiudt  of  tlie  8tin. 
ObKrvatioHS. 


Do«)bl«allllud«ofihtlow- 
•r  lUnb  itt  Um  •(«. 

TIm*  nf  rbrononifUr. 
(Hniclibaiiii.) 

rfrjr.      min.      m, 
49        40        lU 
41        19       30 
40       30       lU 

k.      min.      ft. 
«       34       M 
6       3li       55 

e     M     »4 

UtauU  qf  ealcuhtion. 


DETeniHINATION  OF  LONCilTUDE. 

May  27, 1U42.— Allilude  of  Vega. 
Olaervatmis. 


riRiT  K 

cnici. 

■CCOKB 

icRia*. 

Double  altitude  of  Vvga. 

Time  of  chrononietor. 
No.  7,B1U. 

Double 

altitude   of 
Vega. 

Time  of  chronometer. 
No.  7,810. 

*    As.      ♦tiin,     «ic. 

87  03       90 
88-      04        50 

88  50       10 

89  93       90 
80       54       90 

h.     min.     M(, 
3        57        43 

3  SO        31 

4  01       31 
4       03       01 
4       04       95 

dfg. 
OU 
01 
03 
93 
93 

mill. 
43 
17 
01 
39 
93 

KC. 

30 
90 
50 
40 
10 

h.      min.      Iff. 
4        0«        41 
4        08        lU 
4        10        09 
4        11        S3 
4        13        46 

Tliermometer  66°. 


101  [ 

A.  A«Mit.— AttMrnete  ^€kLJ,B.  Awn/— OoniinuMl. 


Mmo  Uhm. 


h,         MiM.        M« 

10        l«       3i 


J 


IB*. 

ne  of  clironometrr. 

No.  7,810 

h.      min. 

Iff- 

4        0<i 

41 

4       Ob 

lu 

4        lU 

09 

4        11 

&'i 

4        13 

4(> 

DITIRMIXATION  Or  LATITUOI. 

May  27,  l849.^Aliilttd«  of  Polarif. 
O^MTvationt. 


Double  ftllUwU  of  Poltrlt. 

TtiM  of  ehrawHMlar. 

dig,     mlH,      (w. 
74       38       90 
74        38        10 
14       40        10 

k,      mln.     m. 

4     M     tr 

4       19       41 
4       K       90 

Index  error  -  ~  2(y', 
RtiuU  <if  cakulatioH, 


True  altitude. 

Mtm  tiin«. 

Utilud*. 

dig.      mln,     ue. 
37        18        19 

k.      min.     Mt. 
10       43       49 

dig.     mln.      Me. 
38       37       94 

i:  - 1 


I 


II 


[  948  ]  102 

Encampment  at  Chouteau'' a  tower  trading  house,  riffht  bank  of  the  Kanzaa 
river,  700/cet  above  the  level  of  the  Uuff'  of  Mexico. 

From  this  date,  up  to  the  24ih  of  August,  the  Brockbank  pocket  clironotn- 

eter  waa  used  in  noting  time. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 

June  9,  1842. — Altitude  of  the  sun.  , 

Observations. 


riniT  tcRiBs. 

I 

SECOND 

lEniBS. 

Double  altitudo  of  tlio 
Bun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 
(Brocl<bank.) 

Double  altitudo  of  the 
1     Sun's  lower  limb. 

1 

Time  of  chronometer. 
(Brockbank.) 

dfg.     min.     nc. 
53        19        00 
53        54        50 
53       39       35 
53       33       35 
53        03        50 

b.      min,       see. 
G        SO        33.5 
6        30        36.0 
6        31        15.6 
6        33        01.0 
6        33        51.0 

ileg.  »iii«.  Me. 
1  51  31  30 
1  51  03  30 
I  50  45  50 
1      50        34        00 

50        10       00 

h,      min.       fee. 
6        34        39.5 
6        35        30.0 
6        36        13.3 
6        37        10.0 
6       37       45.7 

Index  error  =  —  25". 


Result  of  calculation. 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

ht        min.      Mr. 
4         57        32 

h.      min.      sec, 
1        36        25 

(leg,      min.        »e, 
94        39           31 

DETERMINATION  OP  LATITUDE. 

June  9,  1842.— Ahitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Polaris. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

deir.     min. 

see. 

h.     min. 

see. 

75        24 

50 

3        29 

5!) 

75        25 

05 

3        31 

51) 

75        26 

00 

3        33 

35 

75        2fi 

30 

3        35 

22 

75        27 

00 

3        37 

00 

75        28 

40 

3       3d 

44 

75        28 

50 

3       40 

43 

75        28 

10 

3       48 

05 

75        30 

40 

3       44 

14 

75        30 

50 

3        46 

07 

Thermometer  55°. 


Double  al 
lower  liir 


deg, 
56 
56 
55 
55 
55 


r  oj  the  Kanzas 
.nco, 

ocket  chronom- 


niBs. 


me  of  chronometer. 
(Brockbnnk.) 


It. 

HI  in. 

see. 

6 

34 

39..'"> 

6 

35 

30.0 

6 

36 

19.3 

6 

37 

10.0 

6 

37 

45.7 

giludc. 


)i.        see. 
)  31 


103  [  S48  I 

Encampment  at  Chouttau^s  fmeer  trading-houH. — Continued. 
Besult  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 

Moan  time. 

Latitude. 

deX'      min.     set. 
37        4-J       96 

h.      min.      ste. 
9        31        43 

dtg,      min.      sec. 
39        05        53 

June  9, 1842.— 

Altitude  of  Antares 

in 

t 

the  meiidiun. 

Double  altitude  of  An- 
tares. 


deg. 
49 


Nllfl.        Ht. 

49       50 


True  altitude. 


deg.      min.      sc. 
94        49        17 


Latitude. 


deg.      min,      sec. 
39        06        00 


Encampment  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Kanzas  river. 

^  DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 

June  16, 1S42.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations,  ' 


FIRST  SERIES. 

SECOND 

SERIES. 

..^  ■._.... 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Suu. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

deg.      min.      sec. 
56        40       00 
56        13        55 
55        53        15 
55        35        20 
55        16        55 

h. 
6 
6 
6 
G 
6 

7nin. 
96 
27 
23 
29 
30 

sec. 
31.5 
41.5 
31.0 
22.0 
10.0 

•     deg.     min.      sec. 
1      53        37        50 
'■      53        21        45 
i      53        08        00 
5s)        49        55 
1      52        30        30 
1 

h.     min. 
6        31 
6        35 
6        35 
6        36 
6        37 

sec. 

26.0 

07.7 

47.0 

39.7 

23.0 

Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


Advance. 


Longitude. 


'!■, 


[243] 


104 


Encampment  on  the  h/t  bank  of  the  Kanxm  n'vrr.— Continued. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

Juno  16, 1842 — Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double«ltitudeof  Po> 

Time  of  chronometer. 

larit. 

deg. 

min. 

see. 

k. 

mt'n. 

see. 

75 

31 

20 

10 

53 

40 

75 

32 

50 

10 

56 

14 

7J 

34 

20 

10 

58 

43 

75 

34 

20 

ri 

00 

39 

75 

34 

55 

11 

02 

30 

75 

36 

50 

11 

04 

."to 

75 

37 

00 

11 

06 

16 

75 

37 

30 

11 

08 

16 

75 

37 

55 

11 

09 

43 

75 

39 

40 

11 

13 

59 

Dmiblr  a 
lower  lim 


4U 
40 
40 
39 
39 


;.. 

Result  of  cakulation 

1.                     '      '  • 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

deg.      min,      sec, 
37        46        43 

h.      min.      see, 
9        23       30 

deg.      min.     see.  \-\- 
39        06        40 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Itv 


» 


June  16,  1842. — Altitude  of  *  Aquilce. 
Observations. 


FIRST  lERIEl. 

SECOND  SERIES. 

Double  altitude  of  a 
Aquiiffi. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  « 
Aquiloe. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

deg.       min.     sec. 
5U         14        00 
51         11        20 
51         52       20 

h.      min,      sec. 
11        26        08 
11        28        43 
11        30        28 

deg.      min,      see. 

52  43         40 

53  29        00 

54  17         40 

h.      min.      sec. 
11        32        46 
11        34        43 
11        36        49 

Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


h. 


mtn. 
50 


sec. 
47 


Longitude. 


deg. 
96 


nun. 
10 


fee. 
06 


tnlinited- 


105 

Encampment  on  Little  Vermiilion  enek, 

DRTBRMINATION  OF  LONGITVDB. 

June  18, 1842.— AUitude  of  the  Sup. 
ObMrvutions. 


[848  J 


riMT  lERIEII. 

ICCUND  IgRIE!). 

Double  altitude  of  the 
towcrlimboftheSun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  Che  Sun. 

Time  of  chronoDM- 
ter. 

Jltf,      ittiii.     tee. 
40        41        00 
40        19        90 
40        01        00 
39        44        10 
39        19        40 

h.      mln. 
7        10 
7        11 
7        13 
7        13 
7        14 

see. 

41.0 

38.0 

96.5 

115 

17.5 

def(.     min,     ice. 
89        05        (H) 
38        43        50 
38        30        10 
38        13       50 
38       (10       00 

h. 

min.      see. 

14  58.0 

15  53.5 
I<       30.0 
17        14.0 
17       50.0 

Index  error  =  —  36". 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


ue. 
40 


k. 
5 


mm. 
32 


see. 
18 


Longitude. 


deg.     mtn.     see. 
36       40 


DETERMINATION  OP  LATITUDE. 


June  18,  1842.— AUitude  of  Polnii^. 
Observations. 


ES. 


le  of  chronometer. 


min.  sec. 

il        32  46 

II        34  43 

11        36  49 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time of  chronometer. 

laris. 

de<r,     min. 

see. 

h. 

min.      sec. 

75        49 

00 

10 

44        04 

75        50 

20 

10 

48       08 

75        51 

40 

10 

51        48 

75        52 

20 

10 

53        34 

75        53 

30 

10 

55        09 

de. 


fee. 
06 


Kesult  of  calculation 

. 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

deg.      min.      sec. 
37        54        13 

h.      min.      see. 
9        08        46 

deg.     min.     ue. 
39        15        18 

M 


I 


[«48] 


106 


Encampment  on  a  tributcary  of  thti  Big  V&rmillion  creek,  1,350  feel  alovc 

the  level  of  the  Uulf  of  Mexico, 

DETKRMINATION  OF  LONG  ITU  DK.  t 

Juno  19,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations, 


FIRIT  tEKIEI.  ' 

IKCOND   lERIEI. 

Double  aUitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Snn. 

Time  of 

chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

</i^.      mitt,     tte, 
Stf       16       40 

/«. 

min. 
18 
19 
19 
90 
99 

HC. 

16 

09.4 

45 

36 

99 

dtg.      min.      uc. 

h. 

min.       iiT. 

37       59       30 

37       43       45 

:    37       94        35 

36        45        20 

36        16        40 
35       46        50 
31.       27        40 

7 

7 
7 

33  3'3 

34  59..'-> 
25       50.6 

1 

Encamp 


Index  error  =  —  42". 
Result  of  calculation. 


DETERMINATION  OP  LATITUDE. 

June  19,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  aUitude  of 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Polaris. 

dcg.      min. 

see. 

h.     min.      see. 

76        19 

30 

10        40        53 

76        21 

00 

10        44        51 

76        23 

00 

10        43        53 

76        24 

40 

10       53        06 

76        24 

20 

10       55        47 

76        26 

15 

10       58        58 

76        27 

20 

11        00        25 

76        27 

50 

11        01        49 

76        28 

iiO 

11        04        36 

76       29 

50 

11        06        59 

Result  of  calculation 

• 

True  aUitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

dtg.      min.      sec. 
3d        11        07 

h.       min.     sec, 
9       13        11 

deg.     min.      ate, 
3£        30        40 

Double  aiti 

Aquil 

deg. 

min 

50 

34 

51 

19 

59 

11 

107 


[848] 


Encampment  on  the  lAttle  Blun  river y  1  fiOO  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Oulf 

of  Mexico. 


me  of  chronomete-. 


h.      m««.       "''^• 
I  ••••••••••••*•■■* 

7        33       39 

7        94        59..'> 
7        95        50.6 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

June  25, 1842.~Altiiude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of  chroaomeler. 

laris. 

dtg. 

min. 

He. 

h.      min. 

see. 

78 

15 

20 

10       36 

14 

78 

16 

45 

10       40 

50 

78 

17 

SO 

10       43 

36 

78 

19 

35 

10       45 

14 

•  78 

30 

15 

10       46 

67 

•  78 

SO 

30 

10       48 

35 

78 

30 

50 

10       49 

45 

78 

31 

35 

10       51 

33 

78 

33 

15 

10       53 

40 

78 

33 

lU 

10       54 

17 

^Vfiit'..'  Index  error  =  +  25". 

Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


%l 


mm. 
09 


see. 
00 


.  ■«i 


Latitude. 


t 


mm. 
36 


sec. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 

June  25,  1842. — Altitude  of  »  Aquilae. 
Observations. 


FIRST   SERIES. 

- 

SECOND   SERIES. 

Double  altitude  of  a 
Aquilse. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  a 
Aquilae. 

Time  of  chronomster. 

deg,      min,      sec. 

50  34        40 

51  19        10 
53        11        15 

h. 
11 
11 
11 

min.        sec. 
01        45.0 
03        47.3 
06        07.0 

• 
dtg.      min. 
53        OP 

53  40 

54  37 

sec. 
30 
00 
15 

/).       mi;). 
11        08 
U        10 
11        13 

.ICC. 

34.0 
05.5 
11.0 

Result  of  calculation. 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.      min.     see. 
9        17        36 

h.      min.      see. 
1        49        39 

deg.      min,      nee. 
98        54        07 

[«43] 


Eneampmtnt  on  tfu  LUtl§  Blue  riwr. 

DETERMINATION   ur  LATITUDR. 

June  25,  1842. — Altitude  of  Anlaret  near  the  meridian* 
Observationf. 


Double 

altitude  of  An- 

Time  or  chronometer. 

tares. 

dtf. 

mill. 

Mf, 

k. 

min.      ttc. 

45 

&5 

30 

11 

18        U3 

46 

03 

(K) 

11 

19       43 

46 

99 

50 

11 

96       96 

46 

97 

30 

11 

97        46 

46 

39 

90 

11 

30       04 

Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 

Mean  tine. 

Latitude. 

dtf.      min.      ue. 
23        2H        33 

deg.     min.     ue. 
4(1       96       43 



.^,.  .',4^\   * 


„•'  «  ■,'  ;.■       ■  i<  . 


,.:•>"!' 


,1,  ■^^^ 


■5  ' 


i«  I 


f—-i>  ";  .",?■'«?*" 


109 


[848] 


flr«<  eneampment  on  tht  riffht  bank  of  Phut  river,  1 ,970  feet  above  the 

Jtvelo/the  Guif  of  Alcxko. 

DETEllMINATION  OF  LATITL'DE. 

June  26, 1842.— Altitude  of  Poluris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of  chronometer 

Uris. 

deg. 

min. 

ue. 

min. 

see. 

7a 

06 

15 

3() 

50 

7!l 

07 

lU 

S3 

99 

7«J 

0!) 

M 

95 

51 

7U 

09 

35 

97 

9S 

7i) 

10 

45 

30 

09 

7<J 

11 

30 

39 

00 

n 

13 

30 

34 

00 

VJ 

14 

90 

35 

59 

79 

14 

35 

37 

00 

71) 

15 

00 

3d 

54 

Index  error  =  +  25". 
Result  of  calculation. 


V     DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

June  26,  1842. — Altitude  of  Antares  near  the  meridian. 
'  Observations. 


Duublc  altitude  of  An- 

Time  of  chronometer. 

lares. 

deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

min. 

see. 

46 

31 

ao 

11 

48 

34 

46 

39 

90 

11 

51 

03 

)  • 


I.,,,., 


[248]  110 

First  eucampmwt  tn  th»  right  bank  oftht  Platte  Kiwr.— Continued. 

Reault  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

ittf.     min.     Mr. 
U3        14        18 

dtg.     m^H.     tte. 
4&        41        03 

DETERMINATION  OP  I.ONOITUDB. 

June  26, 1842. — Altitude  of  «  Aquilcc. 
Observations. 


riRiT 

lERIKI. 

lECOHD 

IBRIEI. 

Double,  altitude  of  n 
Aquilir. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  a 
AquilsB. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dfg.      mill.      stc. 

74  34        40 

75  04        50 
75        39        30 
70        10        10 
7C        47        15 

h.      min.      ifc. 
13       05       90.5 
13       07       15.5 
13       08       58.0 
13       10       26.0 
13       13       10.0 

(leg.     min.     tte. 

k,      mill.      Mc. 

78  36        35 

79  16        45 
79       44       .10 

13       17       35.5 
13       19       30.0 
13       <M)       5«.0 

Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


10 


mm,       lec, 
^'3        U6 


Longitude. 


tf 


nun. 
17 


sec. 
47 


Ooubif  aiti 

Aqui 


'tfg.  mi 

71  41 

:3  31 

73  o: 


ih 


•Oontinued. 


we. 

03 


Bl. 

le  of  ohronoineter. 

h.      min. 

HC. 

9       17 

19       ll> 
9       90 

35.5 
30.0 
5S.0 

dc. 

sec. 
47 

4r 

111  r84B] 

Steond  tncampintnt  on  the  right  ban0o/th»  PlaUi  river. 

DRTKRMrNATION  OF  LONdlTUDR. 

June  27,  1842.— Altitude  of  a  AquiliD. 
t)baervation». 


riRIT  tBKIBI. 

aiCONO  lERIBI. 

Ocublr  altitude  of  a 
Aquilo!. 

Tim*  of  ohronomattr. 

Doubt*  altitud*  of  • 
Aqukln). 

Time  or  ohronom*t*r. 

<tfg,     min.     we. 
71        43        10 
79       38        .M) 
73        07        OO 

h,       mln.       He. 
11        .">«        49.0 
It        .^7       90.0 
11        M        41.5 

^,     min.     Me, 
73        96        90 

73  59        40 

74  liO       00 

h,       mln.     we. 
11        59       38 
19       00       59 
19       03       38 

Index  error  -    +  10" 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


h.       mln.      Me. 
10        07        03 


Longitude. 


dff(,      mln.     are. 
U9        37        45 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

June  27,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations, 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of 

chronometer. 

larls. 

(Itg. 

wilt. 

nee. 

min.      see. 

78 

.W 

4.') 

13        03 

79 

01 

30 

16        46 

7'.) 

04 

00 

90        40 

79 

o.--. 

55 

^4        19 

79 

07 

00 

96        05 

True  altitude. 


Result  of  calculation. 
Mean  time. 


deg. 
39 


nil  II. 
30 


see. 
50 


Latitude. 


Ill  I II. 
98 


,VfC. 

36 


dfji;. 
40 


mill.       see. 
39        39 


i'  (I 


'N 


ill 


Iff 


/• 


IV 


(MS] 


118 

TTMrrf  eneamptntt^n  the  right  hank  of  Phttt  rivn: 

UCTKIIMINATION   or   l.tTITt'DK. 

JiUM  28,  1842.— AIiUikIo  of  Polark 
(MtaervatioM, 


Uoublv  nlliltiiiu  uf  I'o- 
larM. 


TIruo  of  I'hruiiumttir. 


ihg. 

min. 

Iff. 

'it 

mm. 

Ht, 

7b 

5D 

W) 

U6 

Oi 

7M 

b'J 

35 

07 

:n 

7U 

iiJ 

SU 

IW 

Ki 

79 

Ul 

1& 

10 

(M 

79 

Ul 

5U 

11 

Of! 

7!» 

03 

.Kl 

14 

4'J 

7i) 

04 

3i 

Hi 

4'J 

79 

U5 

3(1 

18 

Oil 

7!» 

Oi 

53 

I'J 

II 

7a 

UU 

4U 

9U 

su 

Tru«  altitude. 


Uts;.     min.       hc. 
3<J        dU        13 


Index  error  =  — 20". 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


h.      triin.     ICC. 
0        SM)        95 


Latitude. 


dtg. 
4U 


moi. 
3<J 


118 

Fifth  encampment  on  tht  right  bank  of  the  Phttt  river, 

DKTRIIMItfATION  Q9  LATITIDB. 

tune  30,  1649.— Aliiliide  of  AninrM,  mm  the  ineridinn. 

()h$ervatiou». 


t«4S] 


DoubU 

olllttuie  of  An- 

Tlma 

of 

cliroAomttvr. 

Urei. 

dfg. 

min. 

$tt. 

H. 

mill. 

i«. 

46 

15 

ftU 

II 

36 

3^ 

46 

17 

M 

II 

40 

5lt 

46 

1ft 

flO 

11 

44 

16 

Index  error  =  —  2U". 
Jiesult  of  calcuiatioH. 


..  < 


True  allltnde. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

I.  in 

if 
J 


&0 


DKTBRMINATION  OF  LONaiTUnE. 

Juno  30, 1842.— Altitude  of  »  Aquilw. 
Obaervationa.    , 


Double  altitude  of  a 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Aquilu. 

deg.     min. 
61        19 

HC, 

h.       min. 

Mf. 

4U 

11        17 

05.:. 

ei      48 

.10 

U        IS 

4!) 

69        92 

90 

11        90 

19 

63        10 

&0 

11        99 

35 

63       59 

50 

11       94 

59.6 

< 


[  us  ]  114 

Ay/A  tucampment  on  the  Hfiht  hank  (\f  Platte  r/rer— ConiiniiP*! 

UeauU  nj  calculation. 


Mr»n  iinir. 


imn.       \tt. 
•4ft        UO 


l^m|iiiiila. 


mtri. 


10     « 


tine 


nrof 


mi 


t)rTr.«MI\.\TI()V    OV    I.ATITVDH. 

June  30,  1842.-  Alliliidc  of  Polnrii. 
Obtervationa. 


Dtttblc  BitllUlll 

lofPi*. 

Tim**  ol 

'nhronomcler. 

Iftrit. 

dfg. 

mttt. 

Mt. 

mln. 

tte. 

'\t 

IK 

40 

ft7 

01 

79 

17 

95 

50 

1.1 

79 

10 

U<( 

01 

•JO 

n 

19 

.15 

11 

in 

9(1 

79 

'jn 

40 

04 

44 

79 

91 

10 

on 

00 

79 

tfi 

50 

07 

M 

70 

M 

40 

00 

10 

79 

83 

00 

10 

5!» 

19 

84 

40 

19 

64] 

Result  of  calculation. 


Trur  altitude. 


Mean  timr. 


Latitude. 


<!tf:. 


mm. 
39 


're 
04 


4U 


mm. 
40 


tre. 
65 


Uoubici 


f 


OvuOU 

:  alti 

Aqui 

A>f. 

mil 

TA 

'M 

74 

10 

74 

49 

i-J>> 


;oiiiii)ue(t 


utia. 


115  [843] 

hlnrQutptntnt  t»t  iht  /unction  of  the  .Vorr/i  ami  South  fnrka  nf  tfu  VltUt« 
riv^r,  iJiUi/ttt  above  th»  hvti  iff  the  tiulj  nf  ,1/rrico. 

t  UKTKIiMINATlu.N  U>'  LOKUITI  UK. 

July2,  lS4i.-/j(ih'Halutud«. 
ObMrrvationa, 


10 


rikiT  timii. 


•crovt  ibhiri. 


t)lMlt<ll<    llKlllllll 

'iflti* 

TknMof 

obranoMSlMt 

DottbtotHliwtoorih* 

iltM  #■  911 VOMNM W r • 

tfiin*  luwar  1 

imb. 

■iM*t  luwvr 

limb. 

Ji        31 

$tt. 

mIn. 

Mt. 

d,s. 

min. 

Uf. 

mitt.      N(. 

M 

44 

ft7 

33 

13 

UU 

M       9U.0 

34        54 

00 

4(] 

II. A 

33 

U« 

U*) 

54        14.5 

:u       34 

50 

47 

33.0 

.     :m 

4S 

iU 

54       49.0 

:t3        46 

15 

49 

19.5 !     :il 

U.I 

30 

5.^        40.0 

J3        01 

50 

51 

33.5 

31 

L 

14 

10 

50       33. A 

Index  error  —  —  18 '. 
Jitimlt  of  cmlculatinu. 


.M«M  tlOM. 


mill. 
53 


34 


Lon(iluil«. 


101 


milt. 
33 


UO 


ll'- 


litudc. 


Mill.      i*e. 
4>J        55 


Di-:'ri'.RMiN.\TiuN  or  longitude. 

July  2,  1812.— Altitude  of  »  Aquihe. 

Obaervutions. 


riR»T 

«r.RiE«. 

ICCOVD  IKRIBt. 

Ik"iDle  altitude  of  a 
Aquilu;. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

1 

Double  nititildo  of  n 

Aijiiilif. 

Time  of 

chronometer. 

iif;.      min.      Mr. 

^^      35      40 

74         10        30 
74        49        30 

k.       min.      $tc. 
11         411        41 
11         46        51 
11        50        43 

dtg,      mill.      I'l'. 

75  36        35 
7r>         18        4U 

76  43        10 

h. 
11 
11 
11 

min.      tte. 
53        03 

55  06 

56  18 

Result  of  calculation 

• 

Mewi  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude, 

h.      min.      itc. 
9        53       58 

h.      min.      wc 
1        57        49 

dtf(.      miii.t     \fc. 
101        33  •  OU 

[243] 


116 


Encampment  at  the  junction  of  the  North  and  South  fork  of  the 
>^i»  ■-  »%i  river. — Continued. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

July  2,  1842. — Altitude  of  Antarcs  in  the  meridian. 


Platte 


Double  altitude  of  tlie 
Star. 


dtg.      min.      hc. 
45        44         15 


Latitude. 


dtg.      min.      MC. 
41        05        Ui 


i 


m 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONCilTUDE. 

July  3,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations. 


riRST  SKRIEI. 

SCCOHO  SERIES. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dfg.    ^nin.      sec. 

53  50        50 

54  t>9        30 

55  or>       50 

55  38        2U 

56  09        SO 

h.      min. 
9       08 
9       09 
9        11 
9        13 
9        14 

stc. 

33.0 

04.5 

43.5 

11.0 

35.3 

dtg.      min.     .«rc. 
57        06        25 

57  43        05 

58  15        40 

58  41        40 

59  11       35 

h.      nVm, 
9        17 
9        18 
9        30 
9        31 
9        33 

,S(:C. 

05.5 
44.5 
12.7 
22.0 
41.5 

Result  of  calculation. 


Time  did  not  permit  us  to  wait  at  some  of  the  most  important  geograpliil 
cal  positions  for  favorable  weatlier,  and  I  have  occasionally  referred  to  these! 
the  observations  taken  at  less  marked  localities.    By  the  clironometric  difr 
lerence,  the  lunar  distance  of  September  16,  observed  about  forty  miles  be- 
low, is  referred  to  this  place. 


m4 


0/  the  Platte 


in. 


•      f 


nee. 


IIES. 


me  of  chronomeler. 


h. 

Jiiin. 

SIC. 

9 

17 

05.5 

9 

18 

44.5 

9 

20 

12.7 

9 

21 

22.0 

9 

22 

41.5 

tude. 


jortant  geograplii- 
r  referred  to  these 
chronometric  dil- 
ut  forlv  miles  be- 


117 


[248] 


Encampment  on  the  left  bank  of  the  South  fork  of  Platte  river. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LONOITVDE. 

July  4,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations, 


riniT  iCRiif. 

ICCOND  SERIEI- 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dtg.      mill.      see. 
55        49        40 
55        2'         10 
54        57        10 
54        30        50 
54        14        50 

h.      min.      see. 
6       52       32 
C       53       05 
6       54        17 
6       55       35 
6       56       10      , 

dtg.     min.      ue. 
53        54        15 
53       34       00 
53       30       40 
53       03       30 
62       44       30 

h,      min.     sec. 
6        57        05 
6        57        59 

6  58       35 
G       59       33 

7  00        11 

Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


Advance. 


Longitude. 


.-,>'<  I 


."^1 


•     .i»v>);t;^i^V|j^  .'V* 


.   v."  ■ 


,'ij*>  'liiY 


. ..  Jik_    , ,— . 


v^.-^r 


i'- 


n 


I'..l'.' 


i! 


M    1 


»;1 


i 


% 

'»'« 


i4  '!i 


It     . 


i:':! 


[248]  118 

Encampment  on  an  island  in  the  South  fork  of  the  Platte  river, 

OETEHMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

I 

July  6, 1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  uf  Po- 
laris. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dtg.      min.     tee. 
79        53        40 
79        59        00 

h.       min.     sec. 
11        43        03 
11       53       24 

fSi 

^        I                 Index  error  =  +  15 
^*                        Bestilt  of  calculation 

», 

if 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

deg.     min.      sec. 
39       57       21 

/(.      min.     sec. 
9        43       30 

deg.     min.      sec. 
40       51        17 

DETERMINATI'^N"   OF    LONGITUDE. 

July  6, 1842.— Altitude  of  «  Aquilae.     ' 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  a 
Aquils. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

deg.    min.       sec. 
80        53        20 
82       53        10 

h.      min.      sec. 
12        00        14 
12        06        14 

Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.     min.     sec. 
9        57        31 

h.      min.      sec. 
2        05        43 

deg.      min.      see. 
103       35       04 

atte  river. 


' 

** 

'-1 

K' 

}lt 

f 

sec. 

17 

sec. 
04 


119  [248] 

Encamjment  on  the  South  fork  of  Platte  river. 

DETERMINATION  OP  LONGITUDE. 

July  7,  1842.— Altitude  of  «  AquilBB. 

Observations.  ,        ♦ 


.ftsr^.f.     !■'     -'i 


Double  tltitude  or  a 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Aquilic. 

dtg,      min. 
(3       29 

sec. 

h.       min.      sec. 

20 

13        04        45 

84        16 

10 

12        07       07 

85       19 

50 

13        10       54 

86       01 

20 

13        13       33 

86       41 

30 

13        14        37 

it     m 


Index  error  =  +  1^''.^      » 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.      min.       sec. 
10        03        43 

h.      min.      see. 
2       07        17 

deg.      min.      s«c. 
1U4        02        13 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

July  7,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

• 
Time  of  chronometer. 

laris. 

"■ 

deg.      min. 

sec. 

h. 

nun.      sec. 

79        43 

40 

13 

IS       37 

79        44 

50 

12 

21       39 

79        48 

00 

13 

24     as 

79        51 

00 

12 

S9        54 

79        53 

40 

12 

33        19 

Result  of  calculation 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

deg.      min.      sec. 
39        53        11 

h.       min.      sec. 
10        IS        17 

deg.       min.      see. 
40        33        26 

1?^ 


^: 


li 


[«48]    •  120 

Encampment  at  St.  VraMs  fort,  Southfork  of  Piatte  rivcf,  6,440  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  Cfulf  of  Mexico. 

July  11,1842.— AUiUide  of  lite  Sun.  » 

nRTERMINATION  OF  LONOITUDE. 

Observations. 


riRIT  tEHIEI. 

SECOND  lERIBI. 

• 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Bijd'k  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
8un^s  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer, 

J//f.      mill.       see. 
M       01        40 
:«       34       50 
ol        01        05 
51        28        10 
:>2        02        55 

h. 
9 
9 
9 
9 
9 

min. 

IH 

19 

21 

92 

23 

see. 
23 
52 
09 
13 
45 

deg.     min.      Ht. 
53       OU        00 

53  36        55 

54  17        90 

54  48        15 

55  91        30 

k.      mill.     sec. 
9        96        17 
9       27       53.5 
9       99       40 
9        31        02 
9       32       80 

Index  error  =  +  15". 
Result  of  catculation. 


DETERMINATION  OP  LONGITUDE. 

July  12, 1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations. 


FIRST  SERIEf. 

SECOND  SERIES. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

tUg.      min.      sec. 

62  33        10 
Ca        27        20 

63  57        90 

h.      min.     sec. 
9        51        51 
9        54        13 
9        55        32 
9        57        45 

deg.     min.      sec. 

66  09        30 

67  09        30 

h.       min.     sec. 
10        01        20 
10       04        55.5 

C4        48        00 

Double 

ait 

Aqu 

(It^. 

mi 

83 

1. 

84 

3i 

«r,  6,440 /ee^ 


». 


ic  of  clu'onometer. 


h. 

iiiiii. 

sec. 

9 

3K 

17 

9 

27 

53.5 

9 

99 

40 

9 

31 

02 

9 

32 

90 

de. 


sec. 
13 


ES. 


le  of  chronometer. 


nun.  sec. 
)  01  20 
0       04        55.5 


121 

Encampment  on  Crow  creek, 

DETERMINATION  OP  LATITUDK. 

July  12,  1S42 Altitude  of  Polnris. 

ObservatioM. 


[248] 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 
laris. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dfff.     mill. 
79        39 
79        41 
79        45 

lec. 
30 
40 
40 

h.      min,      tec. 
11        31        98 
11        35        99 
11        41        24 

Index  error  =  -|-  7"'  . 
Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


tUg.      min.      fee. 
39        50        13 


Latitude, 


deg. 
40 


intti. 
43 


sec. 
00 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITHDE. 

July  12,  1842.— Altitude  of  a  Aquilee. 
Observations. 


riRST  SERIES. 

•!i  ri'W  :■::■'  ' 

"   '"^                      SECOND  SERIES. 

Double  altitude  of  a 
Aquilae. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  a 
Aquilse. 

Time  of  ciironometer. 

fe3 

84 

min.       sec. 
15        20 
36        30 

h.      min,      sec, 
11        49        47 
11        53        58 

deg.      min,      see. 
»5       36        30 
86       26        10 

h.      min, 
11        57 
11        59 

sec. 
01 
36 

« 

Result  of  calculation. 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

/>.       min 
9        42 

see. 
53 

h.      m 
2        1 

n.      see. 
2        12 

deg.       ) 
105 

iiin.     sec. 
33       27 

t 


[248]  122 

Encampment  on  a  fork  of  Lodge  Pole  creek,  5,450  feet  above  the  Ou/fof 

Mexico. 

DETERMINATION   OP    LATITUDE. 

July  13, 1842.— AUitude  of  Polaris. 

» 

Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 
laris. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

deg.    min.      stc. 
80        37        30 
80        39        50 
80        43        00 

h.      min.      stc. 
11        35        16 
11        38        10 
11        41       S4 

Index  error  =  -f-  15". 
Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

dtg.      min.      stc. 
40       19        13 

h.      min.      ste. 
9        28       50 

dig.      min.       'itc. 
41        08        34 

DETERMINATION  OP  LONGITUDE. 

July  13, 1842.— Altitude  of  a  Aquilae. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  a 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Aquilae. 

dtg.      min. 
83        36 

sec. 

h.       min. 

stc. 

30 

11       46 

45 

84        31 

20 

11        49 

06 

85        05 

40 

11       51 

32 

85        41 

10 

11       53 

14 

66        34 

50 

11        56 

01 

67        18 

10 

11       58 

05 

Hesult  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


min. 
41 


sec, 
47 


Advance. 


h. 


nun.    sec. 
10       38 


Longitude. 


deg.      min.      sec. 
105        13        38 


• 

Double  altil 

Aqul 

,Ug. 

min 

71 

33 

72 

37 

cthc  Guff  of 


Ic. 


34 


128 

Encampment  on  Horse  creek. 

DKTERMINATION  OK  LONCUTL'DC. 

July  14,  18112.— Altitude  of  «  Aquils, 
Observations. 


[248] 


KIMT 

•cniBi. 

IBCOND   RBRIK^. 

1  iMa 

Double  aUitudo  of  u 
Aquilx. 

Timu  or  chronometer. 

Double  alitludo  of  a 
AqulIflB. 

Time  of  chrommeter. 

1 

iltg.      min,     nee. 
71        33       00 
73       37       30 

'i.       }nin.     ue. 
11        07        04 
11        09        39 

deg.      min.      Me. 

73  W       i% 

74  16        50 

h,      Hiin.      .i«e.  ' 
11        13        16 
11        15       01 

'• 

Index  error  =  -|-  15". 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


h. 
9 


mm.      stc. 
01        39 


Advance. 


h.      milt.      stc. 
a        09        31 


Lonjitude. 


dig. 
104 


m\n. 
59 


sec. 
33 


ude. 


sec. 
38 


DETERMINATION  OK  LATITUDE. 

July  14,  1848.— Altitude  of  Polaris 
Obsetvatiotis. 


Double  altit  ide  of  Po- 

Time of  chronometer. 

laris. 

dtg,     min. 

stc. 

h. 

min.      $ec. 

83        05 

30 

13 

06       09 

83        09 

30 

13 

11        09 

83        11 

30 

13 

13        57 

83        15 

30 

13 

19        16 

Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


deg. 
41 


»>t(i.      sec. 
04        33 


Mean  time. 


Latitude. 


h,        min.     see. 
10        03        10 


deg.      min.      sec- 
41        40        13 


tt' 


[848] 


124 


Encampment  at  Ihrt  Laram%9^  4,470  /0«/  above  the  level  of  the  QulfoJ 

Mexico. 

DBTKRMINATION  OP  LONGITUDE.  , 

July  10,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observatiotii. 


rmiT  1 

lERIBI. 

IBCOKD  lEBIEI.              \ 

Double 

■Itituiieofthe 

Time  of  chrooomcter. 

Double  altitude  of  the 

Time  of  ehronomeler. 

>S'un'* 

lower  limb. 

8un'«  lower  limb. 

tUg. 

Tiiiii.      sec. 

h. 

min. 

ire. 

dtg.      min.     see. 

h.      min.       ste. 

M 

31        90 

0 

40 

91.0 

60        19        90 

9        44        ii.S 

M 

58       40 

9 

41 

.13.5 

CO        37        50 

9       46       01.0 

r>9 

18       30 

9 

49 

99.0 

60        49        50 

9       46       34.1 

59 

99        10 

9 

49 

54.0 

CO        59       90 

0        46       59  .a 

59 

45       00 

9 

43 

40.4 

61        11        OU 

9        47        39.5 

Thermometer  81°.3. 
Index  error  «  -j-  26". 


M 

tCffCMi    Vf      %iUt,%iUtUHUf§ 

i 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.      min.      ste. 
4        20        17 

h.      min.      ire. 
9        10        35 

deg.      min.      ste. 
105        90        13 

DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 

July  18,  1842.— Altitude  of  a  Aquila*. 
Observations. 


riRIT   SCRIES. 

SECOND  SERIES.                                   1 

;  Double 

altitude  of  a 
^quilae. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  a 
AquiliB. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

d,g. 

7!) 

79 

j(ii(i.      see. 

31  10 
57        00 

32  30 

h.      min.       ste. 
11        17        04.5 
11        18        95.5 
11        20        18.0 

dtg.      min. 

80  55 

81  94 
81        47 

see, 
40 
40 
90 

/i.      Hiin.     sec. 
11        91       9» 
11        93       00 
11        94        10 

Result  of  calculation. 

1 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

/(.      min.      sec. 
9        10        4G 

h.      min.      sec. 
2        09        58 

• 

• 

Double  al 
Sun's  Ic 


deg.      t 

40 

40 

41 

41 

41 


;/  of  the  Qulfoj 


EtIBI. 

\ 

rime  of  ehronomcter. 

h. 

mill. 

MC. 

9 

44 

59..) 

9 

46 

01.0 

9 

46 

34.1 

9 

40 

59  .a 

9 

47 

33.5 

gitude. 


iiH.     He> 
30        13 


SERIES. 


Time  of  chronometer. 


h. 

tnm. 

s«. 

11 

31 

3> 

11 

23 

00 

11 

84 

10 

gituds. 


125 

Encampmtnt  at  Fhrt  />rami>.— Continued. 

UKTRRMINATION  OF  I.ATITVUB. 

July  18,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polnri*. 
Obtervationa. 


[848] 


Double  altitude  of  Po* 

Time 

of  chronometer. 

larit. 

de/e. 

min. 

Me. 

mill. 

»r. 

bi 

59 

10 

3(i 

3t 

83 

(M) 

50 

39 

(K) 

89 

U9 

30 

41 

34 

C3 

04 

50 

43 

45 

83 

Oti 

W 

45 

31 

Thermometer,  63°. 

Index  error,  =  +  26". 

Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


<ltc(,     min.     Mf, 
41        30       38 


Latitude. 


drg.      min.      ue. 
4i        13        11) 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 

July  20,  1842.— Altitude  uf  the  Sun. 
Observations. 


rinsT 

SERIES. 

SECOND 

IBRIES. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time 

of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chroDoneter. 

deif.     min.     sec. 
40       13       20 

40  41       00 

41  03       55 
41       23       30 
41       40       50 

h. 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 

mill. 
53 
53 
54 
55 
56 

see. 

08.0 

35.5 

35.0 

31.0 

08.0 

dt^.      min.      see. 
41        56        40 
43        08        90 
43       30       20 
43       33       40 
43       53       30 

h. 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 

mt  It. 

56 

57 

57 

58 

59 

set. 

51.0 

dS.6 

56.0 

33.t> 

25.0 

Thermometer,  65°. 
Index  error,  =  +  25". 


i 


[843]  12G 

Encampment  at  hhrt  />iramtV.— Continued. 

UKTRKMINAION  OV  LONUITVDK. 

July  21, 1842.— Altitudo  of  the  Sun. 
Observutiona. 


riRIT  IIMBI. 

1 

■MOMD  IMIBI. 

Doulilenltitudrorihe 
luwcrlinibof  tlieHun 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Doiihlf  aiti 
iuwvriimb 

dur.      mi 
41         9 
41        4 
41        5 
49        0 
49        9 

iiiicorthi^ 
DftlittSun. 

n.       tee, 
4        ."lO 
9         10 
4        90 

7      ;io 

•2        40 

• 

Time  of  •lironomctrr. 

itg.      mill. 
3'J        45 
40        99 
40        30 

40  54 

41  05 

90 
50 
30 
10 
00 

A. 
8 
8 

8 
8 
H 

ruin.        vr. 
51        93.0 
5.'l        05.5 
5.1        43.0 
54        39.5 
S3        01.0 

A-      min. 
ti        55 
8        Mi 
H         57 
8        57 
H        58 

lee. 
.'.7.0 
44.0 
16.4 
59.. 1 
34.3 

■ 

Thermometer,  66o. 

Index  error  =  -f-  25' 

Result  of  calculation 

■ 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitiidj. 

1.      m\n 
t;       4G 

MC. 

00 

h.      min.      nee. 
!2        0^1        '-^-'^ 

By  ihc  chrcnometric  difference,  the  lunar  distance  observed  at  Dried 
Meal  camp  is  referred  to  this  place. 


Doiihlf 


7h 
7!» 
7!» 
hO 
fcO 


iS^ 


>"  !.  •  )' 


mr.i. 


inM  of  flhronomclrr. 


*. 

min. 

ste. 

8 

35 

.'.7.0 

8 

aa 

44.0 

H 

57 

16.4 

8 

57 

59.3 

H 

.IN 

34.3 

:u(lo. 


served  at  Dried 


I,  >■         T* 


127 

hhicampmcMt  on  the  Sorlh  fork  of  Plnttt  river. 

IIETIIRMINATION  OV  LONUITtDK. 

July  23,  1842.— Altitude  of  «  Aquik. 
Obtervations, 


t«48) 


rmiT  •mill. 

tSCOMD 

«BRIBt. 

I>()iiti|('  altltiiilr  of  a 
Aquilw. 



Time  of  chronomclrr. 

Double  nititiido  of  a 
Aqullii). 

Tiinn  of  chronomettr. 

Hfg.      nun.      nrr. 
7iH         03         30 
70        a        45 
70        4S        50 
^0         1 1         95 
bU        33        50 

h,        min.         nre, 

10  .'.5        54.5 

11  00        00.0 
11        01        9-J.5 
11        09        36.5 
U        U3        40.0 

df^,       mill,      nre, 
bl         .35        40 
89         10        00 
89        97        90 
b3        07        00 

k.       ffiin.       IN. 
II        t^       M.O 
II        0^       59  .A 
11        00        SO.S 
11        U        87.0 

Index  error  =  +  25". 
Result  of  cctlculatitn. 


Mean  time. 


Longitude. 


DETERMINATION  OP  LATITUDE. 

July  23,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of  clironometer. 

larii. 

'^g- 

mtn. 

see. 

h.       min. 

stc. 

84 

00 

10 

11        99 

08 

84 

01 

90 

11        31 

34 

84 

09 

90 

11        39 

45 

84 

03 

15 

11        33 

57 

84 

04 

15 

11        35 

90 

84 

05 

S5 

11        36 

50 

84 

07 

90 

11        38 

67 

84 

07 

35 

11        40 

03 

84 

10 

00 

11        43 

04 

84 

11 

50 

11        45 

44 

f\ 


r: 


£848]  128 

Enfitmpmt>nl  m  th  Nwrthfork  of  Platte  r/p*f —Coniinu»rf. 
Hnutt  of  caleulatiou. 


,Tr)ia  allituii*. 

M«an  llm*. 

Uliiu<l«k 

Af.      mln.      m. 
U       Ul        64 

9       U.1       JO 

ii      .19      US        * 

Doubt*  al 

• 

flun'ii 

OKTRRMI NATION  (»'  LONCilTt  Of. 

July  23,  1842.— Altiliuie  of  Arctiini*. 
Observations. 


Dmible 

allltmieuf  Are* 

Tlmeo'" 

chronomeUr. 

lurui. 

.//». 

mln. 

0fe. 

/.. 

mln 

<Ci". 

-5 

m 

40 

U 

Ul 

0- 

74 

M 

10 

Vi 

U4 

•j;i 

74 

U4 

SW 

lU 

U4 

W.5 

JicntU  of  calculation. 


Mrun  time. 


mm. 

r.l 


01 


longitude. 


•  •••••••••••••*•••••*• 


fcVj 


r>     I 


i/.-l 


lift 


Ki 


130  [248] 

tincttmjtmtnl  on  tht  Swrthjork  ^  J'Uittt  riyer-— Dried  Meal  ctinp, 

DKTKII.^INVriON  OV  LONiUTVDB. 

July  '25,  1842.    ~Aiii(ud«  uf  (he  8uii. 
IHtatiwiliniiB, 


w  •WW  ■    VwMNHM 


ittCffsro  tMii« 


IKMibU  •llliiitli' 

•if  (ha 

Tlmr  nrrtinmomrtitr. 

Dmihl*  allltiHl 

r<  of  (he 

Tlm»of  rhronimrtw 

Aun'a  (vwnr 

limh. 

1      Mun'a 

1 

lowir 

hmh. 

.  -.-.,-■  -,i-    _.  . 

Af.      min. 

m. 

h.       miM.       M(, 

t 

niin. 

i*t. 

h.      min.       Mr. 

4a        U4 

00 

1        U        M.O 

49 

40 

7        91        04.4 

44         10 

ft(l 

Y        17        01.0 

48 

87 

40 

7        1)1        4%.'- 

47        44 

M 

7        17        M.S 

4ii 

II 

AO 

7        n        97. 0 

47        94 

40 

T        11}        07.0 

1      *^ 

M 

40 

7        9.1        II. «i 

47        OD 

00 

7        90        09.0 

17 

4S 

7        91        09.0 

Therinoinftter,  87°. 
Ref\itl  of  eaieulatioH, 


Mran  time. 

AdvBMa. 

Lon(|itutic. 

h.      min.      Mt. 
6       07       44 

A.      ttiiit.      Iff. 
9       19       M 

rfr^.       min.       ur 
100        94        09 

-I 


,. » 


./ 


URTEItMI.VATlO.N  OK  LATITl'DK. 

i- 

July  23,  1842.— AUitude  of  Polnrk 
Observations. 


UoubU  •Ititudr  of  To- 

Time 

of  chronometer. 

larit. 

dfi.      mIn. 
84        Id 

MC, 

h. 

min. 

.vc. 

90 

19 

39 

84        19 

9d 

IS 

10 

84        90 

40 

16 

31 

84        91 

95 

17 

55 

84        93 

SO 

90 

53 

True  tltituda. 


Result  of  calculation. 
Mean  time. 


*T. 

min. 

ntc. 

h. 

nnn. 

MC 

49 

09 

35 

9 

09 

5t) 

Latitude. 


dt'f,      min.      Sfc 
49        51        35 


[248]  180 

Encampment  at  Dried  Meat  camp — Continued. 

DETKRMINATION  OF  LONCITUDE. 
I 

July  25,  1842.— Altitude  of  Arcturus. 
Observations. 


riMT 

SERIEI. 

lECOND 

lERIEf. 

Double    altitude    of 
Arcturus. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double    altitude    of 
Arcturus. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

ieg.      min.     stc. 
86        16        15 
85        41        9r> 
85        16       40 

ft.        min.       $rc. 
11        93        43 
11        25        SI 
11        96        31 

dfg      min.      sec. 
84        49        30 
64        13        40 
83        96        50 

h.       min.       hc. 
11        97        46 
11        99       97 
11        31        87 

Thermometer  72°.5. 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


h. 
9 


mm. 
14 


sec. 
48 


Longitude. 


DETERMINATION  OP  LONGITUDE. 


July  25,  1842. — Distance  from  the  second  limb  of  the  Moon  to  Jupiter. 
,.^..    .  .      Observations.       ,        ■ 


Time  of  chronometer. 

A,  parent  distance. 

ft. 

'min. 

sec. 

rif;?. 

min. 

sec. 

45 

04 

58 

33 

50 

47 

20 

58 

34 

50 

49 

32 

58 

36 

30 

5U 

55 

58 

37 

40 

52 

18 

56 

38 

95 

Index  error  =  +  15". 
Result  of  calculation. 


True  distencc. 


Mean  time  at  Green- 
wich. 


Longitude  of  the  place. 


dtg.      min. 
58        04 


stc. 
42 


dtg.     min.      ut. 
1U6        26        11 


d. 


.•^*\!^ 


Itl. 


ne  of  ohronomtter. 


fc.  mill.  •fe- 
ll 27  *6 

n  39  21 

11  31  37 


ituile. 


VIoon  to  Jupiter. 


131  [  848  ] 

Encampmtnt  on  the  North  fork  of  tht  Platte  river,  mouth  of  Deer  creek 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

July  26, 1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time of  chronometer. 

laris. 

dtg. 

min. 

stc. 

mill. 

ttc. 

' 

84 

33 

4U 

14 

97 

.■•v-         .  i 

84 

25 

00 

II 

15 

36 

^s 

I--            T 

84 

27 

10 

19 

UG 

^'         «; 

84 

27 

00 

SO 

10 

\\» 

'' 

84 

99 

00 

33 

11 

84 

30 

10 

33 

57 

84 

33 

50 

38 

Of! 

84 

34 

20 

89 

33 

84 

34 

50 

30 

39 

• 

b4 

37 

00 

33 

33 

* 

Index  error 

=  + 

15". 

_. 

Result  of  calculation. 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

lieg,      mi'i. 

sec. 

/t.      mi 

n.      sec. 

dtg. 

mill. 

sec. 

42         14 

16 

9        11 

9       03 

43 

52 

24 

51 


^•1."'    if'JTf'i*'*  '.        i    -is - 


'T.-<-'^*;  .-,1  •■     .I'j  ' 


ot  the  place. 


lin.      ««• 
26        11 


*  :<•: 

P* 

G*    • 

.  1 

ei- 

it 

11 

'ff^ 

'.:'> 

V 

i.r 

\?f.  S»*  te-.  r'.»2  i^'l  jfj- 


.  .'U- 


1?« 


m_.    ^ 


I-. 


[S48]  132 

ISncanyjmicnt  at  /Ac  mouth  of  Deer  creek — Continued^ 


UBTERMINATION  OF  LONOITUDE. 

July  26,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sim. 
Observatiotis. 


Double  altitude  of  the 

Time  of  chronometer. 

lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

de^. 

min. 

see. 

A. 

min. 

see. 

46 

47 

45 

7 

SI 

03.0 

46 

31 

40 

7 

31 

45.5 

Ititerruptcd 

by  clouds. 

45 

37 

15 

7 

24 

14.5 

45 

32 

10 

7 

24 

56.6 

45 

01 

10 

7 

35 

54.0 

44 

37 

30 

7 

27 

00.0 

Thermometer,  83°. 
Result  of  calculation. 


Meantime. 


5 


«9 


see. 
54 


Longitude. 


deg. 
106 


mtii. 
43 


see. 
15 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 

July  26, 1842.— Aliiuide  of  Arcturus. 
Observatiotis.  -      .    . 


VIKtT 

SERIES. 

SGCOKD 

SERIES. 

DoidUralinii&eor 

Aw9«EW>. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of 
Arcturus. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

m       <2»        Ji» 
•SB       ~a       i% 
-a      3i      2i 

h. 
11 
11 
11 

»«iii. 
36 
38 
39 

see. 

13 

20 

deg.      min.    sec. 

7»        13        30 

78        52       00 

1       78        32        30 

6.        mm.       sec. 
11        40        16.-5 
11        41        17.0 
11        42        11.0 

Thennoineter,  TF. 
ResuU  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

A,      rot*,      .we. 
9        26       06 

k.      min.      %te. 
3        13       34 

45 


44 

1 

44 

i 

44 

.1 

44 

1 

133 


[sa] 


uedk 


Encampment  on  the  North  fork  of  Platte  river^  Upper  Oaekt 

DETRRMINATION  9F  LONGITUDE. 

July  28, 1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun, 
Observations. 


riRiT 

SERIta. 

1 

IBCONB  MKIK.*. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  linobor the  Sun. 

ler. 

lifg.     min.     Hc. 
45        13        55 
44        56        10 
44        45        35 
44        30        3U 
44        15        30 

1  * 

min. 
85 
96 
96 
37 
37 

ste. 
21.5 
OS      1 
36.2 

17.5  I 

58.6  1 

dig.     min.      ste. 
43        46        20 
43       35       3S 
43        17       15 
43       05       05 
43       51        40 

k. 

T 
7 

T 
7 

39 
99 
30 
31 
31 

ue. 

17.1 

48 

37 

11 

47.7 

Thermometer  80°.5. 

Index  error  =  -}-  12". 

Result  of  calculation. 


tudo. 


II.         Mf.. 

I        15 


ftlean  time.    . 

Advance. 

longitude. 

h.       min.      ste, 
5        13        37 

h.      min,     sec, 
2        15        09 

deg.      min,     tec, 
1U7        1&        5» 

ERIES. 


ime 

of  chronometer. 

h. 

min. 

set. 

11 

40 

le..') 

11 

41 

17.0 

n 

42 

ll.O 

DETERMINATION   OP   LATITUDE. 

July  28, 1842.— Ahitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time 

of  chronometer. 

laris. 

deg. 

min. 

ste. 

A. 

min.     see. 

84 

31 

30 

24        10 

84 

32 

45 

95        45 

84 

35 

10 

27        55 

84 

35 

30 

U9        13 

84 

36 

35 

30        34 

84 

38 

10 

31        50 

84 

39 

55 

33       25 

84 

40 

00 

34       43; 

84 

40 

35 

35        55 

84 

43 

15 

37        24 

a 


jitude. 


Result  of  calculation 

• 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

deg.     min.     sic. 
43        17        54 

h,      min.      sec. 
9        15        59 

dtg.     min.     see. 
42        50       53 

[248] 


'.!» 


>» 


134 

Encampment  on  the  North  fork  of  Platte  river. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

July  29,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
■«    -  Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  To- 

Time  of  clironoineter. 

laris. 

deg. 

>nin. 

sec. 

h.     min. 

sec. 

83 

53 

40 

11       OS 

00 

83 

57 

10 

11        07 

47 

83 

57 

30 

11       09 

10 

83 

59 

45 

11        13 

14 

84 

00 

40 

11        14 

16 

84 

U3 

00 

11        16 

00 

84 

04 

10 

11        13 

SI 

84 

05 

00 

11       SO 

05 

84 

06 

4U 

11       SI 

4-2 

84 

08 

10 

11       S3 

05 

TiieriTiometer,  60*^. 
Index  error  =  -|-  12". 
Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


Mean  time. 


deg.     min.      sec. 
Ai        00        01 


/(.      min.     sec. 
8        58        53 


ft 


Latitude. 


deg.      min.      sec. 
42        38        01 


ii 


i  '. 

■ft 

,'-^ 

.  '. 

'.  . 

^  ;• 

'i^. 

(■* 

c 

'■i-: 

it 

(.*;■; 

«.*' 

i^ 

i'fe 

H 

\*. 

•;  ■ 

fi'' 

»)). 

fi. 

-1 

0 

lit 

■.v>^ljJ.>i'/'v.V 


%S 


f(»r 


ff,        i^^,'«   *• 


n 


de. 


sec. 
OL 


185 

Encampment  on  the  North  fork  of  Platte  river. 

DETERMINATION  OP  LONOITUnE. 

-     July  29,  1S42 Altitude  of  a  Aquila?. 

Observations. 


[248] 


Double  altitude  of 

a  Aquila. 

Time  of  ohronometer- 

dtif. 

min. 

stc. 

h. 

min. 

stt. 

81 

39 

00 

10 

47 

19 

83 

04 

5'J 

lU 

49 

11 

83 

35 

30 

10 

50 

50.5 

Result  of  calculation. 


^  -      Mean  time. 

Adrance, 

LorgUude. 

ti 

k.       min.      sic. 
8         33        13 

h.     min.      sec. 
3        15        54 

it 

min.      sec, 
99       06 

DETE 

RMINATION  OP  LONGl 

[TUDE. 

"1 
« -sit* 

July  29,  1842.— Altitude  of  Arcturug. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Arctu- 

Time  of  chronometer. 

rus. 

deg. 

min. 

see. 

h. 

min.     sec. 

91 

57 

30 

10 

55        43 

91 

17 

50 

10 

57        33.7 

90 

44 

10 

10 

59        05 

Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


h.      min.      see. 
8        41        30 


Adrance. 


h.      min.      sec. 
2        15        57 


Longitude. 


;;  I 


[243] 


186 


GOAT  ISLAND,  ice. 


Favorable  weather  eimbled  us  to  obseive  here  an  occuhation  of  i  Arietiv, 
vihkU  occurred  ai  the  moon's  bright  hmb,  at  0/t.  05'  40"  of  the  3l8t  of  July 
< civil  tiiDe).  In  order  ilial  il  might  be  calculated  with  the  advantage  of  cor- 
respondent observations,  and  the  correction  of  the  errors  of  the  tables,  the 
observation  was  sent  to  Mr.  S.  C.  Walkbr,  at  Philadelphia.  The  follow- 
ing is  the  result  from  Mr.  Walker's  computation,  without  any  correction  for 
errors  of  the  tables. 


July  30, 1642 — astronomical  time. 
^    f  df  a  h  c 

Im.  •  Arietis  I2h  o'  4^'  —  TAIO'  32"M  +  1.896  +  1.611  +  2.488. 

By  the  estimated  difference  of  longitude,  thirty  two  seconds  (32"),  the 
lunar  distance  observed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water  on  the  23d  of  Au- 
gust, IS  referred  to  this  place,  for  the  longitude  of  which  we  have  adopted 
the  mean  from  chronometer,  lunar  distance,  and  occultation,  resulting  as 
follows: 


Longitude  of  Goat  island,  by  hmar  distance, 
Longitude  of  Goat  island,  by  chronometer. 
Longitude  of  Goat  island,  by  occultation, 


A.  imn.  Mt. 

7  10  07.91 

7  10  51.66 

7  10  32.01 


IC!- 


Mean  longitude  of  Goat  island,  =z  7     10    30.53 

Some  of  the  observations  made  at  this  place  were  lost  in  the  accident  in 
ihe  Platte  river,  on  the  24(h  of  August. 


^,. 


il.-. 


V    A 


I) 


•    i 


M-Hsi'.S'vS.p  '    >  '  T;vi  •  >!;' 


.^ 

:^-^^' 


l-v 


}n  of  I  Arietir, 
e  3l8t  of  July 
vantage  of  cor- 
he  tables,  the 
The  foUow- 
'  correction  for 


,1  +  2.488. 

nds  (32"),  the 

the  23d  of  Au- 

have  adopted 

)n,  resulting  as 

set. 

07.91 
51.66 
32.01 


30.53 
he  accident  in 


187 


[249} 


Encampment  on  Ooat  islantf,  North  fork  of  thr.  Platte  river. 

nKTKRM  I  NATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

July  30,  1842 — Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  meridian. 


Double  altitude  of  the 
tjuii't  lower  limb. 


ekg.      mill.      see. 
131        !M        30 


True  central  tllitude. 


dfi;.      min.      nr, 
65        56        hi 


Latitude. 


def(. 


min.      Mr. 
33        Ul 


Index  error  '    -+-  12". 


nETKRMINATION  OF  LONOlTUnR. 

July  31,  1842.— Altitude  of  a  Aquilip. 
Ob.fervation.9. 


Double  a'     ide  of  a 
A(|uila>. 


d-i;.  min.  sec. 

99        51  .50 

99        U9  30 

08        45  50 


Time  of  chronometer. 

h. 
3 
3 
3 

min.     see. 
01        02 

04  02 

05  42 

Result  of  calculation. 


ftlcan  time. 


A, 
0 


tmii. 
4G 


see. 
59 


Advance. 


It. 
a 


tutu. 
16 


Mr. 
36 


Longitude. 


DETERMINATION  OP  LONGITUDE. 

u^c.     '    «.  .J,    July  31,  1842. — Altitude  of  a  Aurigte. 


Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  a 
Auriga;. 


itef;.      min.      sec. 
48        38        20 


Time  of  chronometer. 


h.       min.      see. 
4        13        40 


'-  --a: 


l«'-»K  .«?,» 


Ih 

^ 

Br 

i»d 

«•; 

ca- 

Vf 

«r3 

(! 

•ii 

« 

Result  of  calculation. 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

TiOngitude. 

h.      min.      see. 
1        57        09 

h.      min.      see. 
2        IG        31 

deg.      mih.      sec 

r-r  ■ 


[248]  188 

Encampment  on  the  Sweet  Water  rher,  one  mile  behnr  Rock  /ndependetiee, 

DICTKnMINATION  OF  LATITLDK. 

August  1,  1842.— Altitude  or  Pularii. 
ObaervatiouB, 


Double 

Bllitudo  of  Vty- 

Time  of 

cliranomcler. 

luris. 

dig. 

miti. 

MC, 

h. 

min. 

let. 

84 

04 

20 

11 

29 

33 

84 

05 

50 

11 

31 

12 

84 

05 

UO 

11 

32 

15 

84 

07 

50 

11 

33 

4'J 

84 

09 

00 

11 

35 

20 

84 

10 

00 

11 

36 

37 

84 

11 

40 

11 

38 

18 

84 

13 

00 

11 

39 

30 

84 

13 

11) 

11 

40 

48 

84 

14 

UU 

11 

42 

14 

Tliermometer  47°. 
Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


deg, 
42 


mm. 
03 


see, 
54 


Latitude. 


deg.      i/iin.       stc, 
42        29        56 


Index  error  =  -f-  12". 

DETERMINATION  OP  LONGITUDE. 

August  1,  1842. — Altitude  of  Arciurus. 
Observations, 


li  %; 


riRIT   BERIBS. 

SEC OKU 

lERIKS. 

Double  altitude  of 
Arcturus. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of 
Arcturus. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

deg.      »nin.       see. 
66        41        00 
66        16        20 
65        50        30 
65        24        10 
64        49        20 

h.      min. 
11        54 
11        56 
.    11        57 
U        58 
11        59 

see. 
55.0 
03.0 
10.0 
19.5 
55.5 

deg,      min.     tte. 
64        00        00 
63        22        50 
62        46        30 
62        14        10 
61        48        50 

h. 

12 

12 

12 

12 

12 

mill.        sec. 

02  10.0 

03  52.0 

05  29.6 

06  57.0 
08       06.0 

Result  of  calculation 

» 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.      min.      sec, 
9        44        UO 

h,      min,      sec. 
2        17        18 

deg,      min.      sec . 
107        55        00 

Indtpendence, 


\t. 


see. 
56 


tits. 

me  of  chronometer. 

h.       min. 
12        02 
12        03 
12        05 
12        06 
12        08 

nee. 

10.0 

59.0 

29.6 

57.0 

06.0 

» 

tudc. 

n.      jwc . 
>       00 

Mk 

180 

Jsttteampment  on  the  Sicett  Water  river. 

DBTRRMIN'ATION  or  LATITt'DR. 

Augu9(  5, 1842 Attitude  of  Polarii. 

Oh,iervations. 


[iM8] 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time of  chronometer. 

larii. 

dtg,     min. 
88        00 

tre. 

h.      min.      i>«. 

30 

5        lii        55 

88        03 

20 

5       99        15 

88        U9 

00 

5       93        39 

88        09 

40 

5       86        01 

88       03 

.iO 

5       97        39 

Thermometer,  67°. 
Index  error  =  +  25". 
Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

itf(.     min.     ue. 
44       00       35 

h,      min.       Ht. 
3       09         49 

dig.     min.     Me. 
42       32        31 

DETERMINATION  OP  LONCilTCfOE. 

August  6,  1842. — Altitude  of  «  Lyroe.   , 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  a 
Lyrae. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

deg.     min. 
67        3d 
66        58 
66       35 

see. 
30 
40 
30 

h. 
5 
5 
5 

min.       iee. 
04        26.0 

06  21.5 

07  32.0 

Sky  very  misty. — Observation  indifferent. 
Result  of  ccUculation. 


Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.     min.      Me. 
2        45        14 

h.      min.      see. 
2       90        53 

• 

.1^. 


[«48] 


140 

Kwainprntnt  irn  th§  Swt»t  Wattr  rJMr— Continued. 

r)ICTKR.MrN.»TIOJ»  OK  LONdlTDUR. 

August  7,  1642.— All iiude  of  Arcturut. 
lUiervatimif. 


Double    •Ititiidir    of 
Arcturu*. 

Time  of  chr«)nomcler. 

tirf(.      mill. 
61         46 
:.0        49 
49        o4 

wr, 
90 
30 
30 

a 

19 
19 

mifi.      —«. 
18        ()9 
90       ri6 
93       u4 

McM  time. 


Index  error  -    -f-  25". 

Result  of  calculation, 

.^llvanco. 


mtn. 
47 


$tt. 

01 


Longitude. 


1U9 


mill. 
&1 


99 


Double  I 

Hun't 


I 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

August  7,  1642.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double 

altitude    of 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Polaris. 

dtp;. 

mitt. 

ttf. 

k. 

min. 

>te. 

64 

59 

25 

19 

30 

38 

85 

00 

00 

19 

39 

19 

85 

01 

90 

19 

33 

95 

85 

09 

30 

19 

34 

57 

85 

03 

90 

19 

3G 

91 

85 

05 

00 

19 

37 

48 

Thermometer  36°. 
Result  of  ealciUation. 


True  altitude. 


dtg.      win.      stc, 
48        30        18 


Latitude. 


dtg.      min,      «<c. 
49       97        15 


Double  alt 
ti 


77 
76 
76 


led. 


ide. 


we. 
99 


ide. 


1,      sec, 
15 


141 

jff^      tinc9mpmtnt  on  Littie  isantty  creei*. 

DCTKRMINATION  Or  LOKQITUni;. 

Augiiit  8,  184'^— AtliiuJe  of  rhe  Suii. 


[«4t] 


rill«T   tKMItl. 

•fccokD  lime*. 

DoubU  aHltiKlr  of  lh« 
Hun'i  lowri-  limb. 

Timf 

of  elironoir.ntcr. 

Dmihie 

fUll'l 

Bitltud*  of  Ihc 
loMrr  ikmb. 

4if.      m'iM.      -ee. 
44        51        .'•() 
44       33       00 
44        IK       .10 
44       04        00 
43       50       f») 

' 

)ii()i.       ue 

84  45.5 

85  34.0 

86  IH.O 

86  53.5 

87  89.0 

1 

1      '"! 

min.       $fr 
89        30 
Iti        50 
m        .10 
5i        85 
34        10 

k.      min.       tie. 

m     8s..'i 

7        99        Oil.O 
7        «)        89.4 
7        30        04.S 

7       M       47.9 

Thermomeler  C3«. 
4      Index  error  -  -f-  23". 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  lime 


5 


03 


vr. 
83 


UlCTERMINATION  OF  LONOITt'DE. 

Augiisl  8, 1842. — Altitude  of  ArciuruiS. 
Observations. 


rintT  (CHiBi. 

IKCOKO  ICKIKI. 

Double  aldtudc 
turu«. 

of  Arc* 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  Are- 
turus. 

Time  of 

ehroMiMter. 

rf^.      min. 
77         19 
76        »♦ 
76        09 

sec. 

05 
40 
30 

A.       min.      tee. 
11        05        38 
11        07        31 
11        08       49 

dtjK.      min.      see. 
75        81         30 
75        00        40 
74       39        85 

h. 
11 
11 
11 

min.      ;te. 
11       03 
II        .Vf 
13       SS 

Thermomeler,  45°. 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.       min,      see. 
9         45       07 

h.       min.      uc. 
2       84       31 

1 


f 


J     Wli 


[  d48  ]  142 

EncampmtHt  oa  LaUU  Unndy  cr««X'— (Joniiiiued. 

DKTKRMINATION    or  LATITUUI^ 

August  8,  1B48.— Altiludo  of  Pulariit 
Ohatrvatioiu, 


%f. 


Duublir  kltUutla  uf 

Ttmit  of  ehrunomcMr, 

Poltrti 

*        ^■ 

*r 

min. 

ut. 

k 

WHH 

Mr. 

*    . 

.  •;» 

38 

40 

10 

41 

'M 

■   8.1 

41 

3N 

10 

44 

41 

»1 

4-J 

3(1 

10 

47 

10 

-  • 

8.1 

43 

9(1 

10 

40 

4H 

' 

81 

4r. 

(M) 

10 

!>l 

Hi 

(t:i 

4H 

3U 

10 

A4 

.13 

■'j  t-           -            '.                      ' 

8:i 

rio 

9U 

10 

an 

14 

H.-i 

M 

4U 

10 

:,ft 

(IN 

83 

5*4 

fiU 

10 

AD 

.M 

83 

53 

9ft 

11 

01 

08 

t                                       '                S' 

tifxuU  of  calculation. 

(*»S      ■«'»'". 

True  kltitudc. 

M«M 

tiBM. 

latitude. 

d(f.      min. 

»»<. 

h.       min.     m. 

dfg. 

min.       Me, 

41        &9 

00 

8        97        54 

4'i 

27        34 

!f  I,  11 ',/  -i 


(    f  J      I  •  • '  i 


■  4.   .../i  ;  ^.t 


t .  .-1 J . 

•,.    !.♦• 

*    '    * 

^  f 

-'J 

.«  } 

» 

* 

* 

*1 

^, 

i 

-t 

L. 

1 

t,;i 

»" 

i    " 

. 

M 

( 

i 

I'i- 

( 

■?»■ 

«'« 

'-'  '^, 

UM  iTf 

I'f 

-wS'        ':^ 


i  M 


I? 


■ '   :  .'C   i 


.,*w- 


Double 

a 

Arcti 

**r. 

m 

68 

3, 

(i8 

Oi 

C7 

8- 

_  0-. 

<l 

i' 

(1 

1.* 

M 

\ 

»> 

»» 

il 

1%. 

•.* 

udc. 


Me. 
34 


1 1 


14.1 

Bmttmpmtnt  §n  tkt  t\rat  Saw  fork, 

nKTKNMI.VATION  01*  L.tTlTt'HK. 

Kw'iwti  0,  lNt9.~.AIliui(l«  of  Pnlnrii. 


t«48) 


Duui)l« 

nlltluUi 

'of  1^ 

Tim. 

i>r  cliromimrlvr. 

iwrl*> 

•(rr- 

mi*. 

mr. 

M^ 

Wf. 

ti4 

fW 

») 

10 

n 

(*l 

34 

4U 

19 

i» 

|i| 

3A 

30 

1.1 

4.1 

•4 

35 

50 

14 

57 

K 

37 

30 

iU 

.1 

30 

00 

17 

rt 

(ft 

3f» 

10 

l!l 

0<) 

1)4 

41) 

uu 

91) 

94 

1)4 

40 

54) 

91 

51 

04 

4J 

30 

93 

«:» 

Ind»?x  error  —  4"  85". 
Rvmilt  nf  cnlntlniion. 


True  alliliulo. 

Meuii  limr 

l.al*tu  10. 

dtp;,      mm.      ue. 
i-U        1«         U 

h.       min.     Hf. 
8        51        00 

JfX.     min.      He. 
i'i        4J        s6 

dktkhminatiov  ok  i.onciitudk. 

Aiiguat  9,  1842. — Alliiude  of  Arcluriu. 
Ohsrrvationit. 


VWIT 

(ERIII. 

IICOND  »CKUl. 

Double    altitude    of 
Arcturui. 

Time  of 

rhmnonicter. ' 

l)(iulilr     au..  iiifl    of 
Arcturu*. 

Tinvc  of 

chronometer. 

^g.     min.      ue. 
68        33        40 
tie        09        95 

C7      97      go 

h. 
11 
11 
11 

min.      ue. 
9fl        37 

98  04 

99  41 

rf  ■      min.      »te, 
'A        37        35 
65        56        15 
65        14        00 

h. 
11 
11 
11 

miu.      aw. 
31        54.0 
33       48.0 
35        40.5 

Thermometer,  44°. 
Result  of  calculation. 


Meao  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.      min.      mc. 
9        05        15 

h.      min.      tee. 
9       95        49 

deg,        min.      ite, 
110        99        17 

[  S48  ] 


144 


■i| 


! 


Enca$nptMnt  at  Mountain  la/ccy  7,200 /cc/  above  the  fere/  of  the  Ovlf^ 

Mexico. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITfUK. 

\ 

August  10,  1842.— AhiUiiie  of  Polark 
Observations. 


-       T" 

Double 

altitude  of  Po- 
laris. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

1   84 
84 
84 
84 

mil}. 
55 
55 
57 

5S 

nie. 
90 
50 
30 
00 

A.        niin 

11      ir> 

H        17 
11        18 
11        19 

me. 
55 
00 
28 
56 

Index  enor 
Ifcsiilt  of 

=  —  12' 
calculation 

True  altitude. 

—  • 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

41^.      min.      sir. 
Hi       S7        95 

*.      wiin.      set. 
8        51        42 

<fc?.      mJn.     set. 
A'i        50        08 

li  u 


t   .  ■    .\-l  •■■ 


.»•* 


.  J'\:\   J       •     "   .    i 


.•  ^'  I  ■ 


»A-          ' 

-        •■  > 

>l. 

V.U 

■  t 

tn 

■,M       < 

it 

'       iV? 

^.■■;v»« 


^'2 


/  of  the  Outf^f 


lu«le. 


rn.     we. 
0       08 


145 

Encampment  at  Mountain  lake — Continued. 

DRTERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

August  11, 1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


[«4»] 


i<^ 

•  '• 

.V 

•tfc  ».  ■  •.    - 

•     ' 

* 

<% 

Sa 

Pouble  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of  chroDometer. 

laris. 

%• 

m<n. 

Me. 

A.       mm.      ate. 

84 

43 

ao 

10        56        66 

84 

44 

so 

10        58        32 

84 

46 

10 

11       00       33 

84 

46 

30 

11       01       38 

84 

48 

30 

11        03        37 

84 

49 

30 

11       04        43 

84 

49 

50 

11       05       53 

84 

51 

50 

11       07       01 

84 

53 

00 

11       08       99 

84 

53 

50 

11       09       34 

01 


«» 

m 


'4 


Thermometer,  54°. 

Index  error  =  —  12". 

Result  of  calculation. 


'17V !       True  altitude. 


itg.     min.      stc. 
43        23        19 


10 


Mean  time. 


h.      niin.      sec. 
8        37        54 


Latitude. 


•«'*t1tf6 


iitg.     min.      stc. 
42        49        55 


[248]  146 

Encampment  on  Mountain  lake — Continiictl. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 

Aii|U8l  11,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations. 


FIRKT  lERIEI. 

lECOND 

SERIES. 

Double  altitudo  of  the 
iower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer 

deg.      mill.      sec. 
44        04        00 
44        15        30 
44        30        15 

44  46        30 

45  00        40 

h. 
9 
9 
9 
9 
9 

min. 
36 
36 
37 
38 
38 

sec. 
16.5 
47.6 
28.0 
13.3 
51.0 

deg,     mill.      kc. 
45        33        00 
45        33        10 
45        42        40 

45  51        15 

46  03        45 

h.     min. 
9        39 
9        40 
9        40 
9        41 
9        41 

see. 

53.0 

30.4 

46.0 

09.0 

43.3 

Result  of  calculation. 


Meantime. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.      min.     sec. 
7        13        19 

h.      min.      sec. 
3       35       49 

deg.      min,      sec. 
110        37        35 

During  my  absence  from  this  place,  and  between  the  12th  and  16th,  the 

chronometer  stopped. 


■',? 


u) 


■•■-'^ 

Double  aiti 

Sun's 

Ion 

deg. 

mil 

40 

OS 

40 

2C 

40 
An 

33 

HIES 

: 

me 

sf  chronometer 

h. 

min. 

see. 

9 

39 

53.0 

9 

40 

30.4 

9 

40 

46.0 

9 

41 

09.0 

9 

41 

43.3 

itude. 


n.      ue. 
1        35 


1th  and  16th,  the 


147 

Encampment  at  Mountain  lake — Continued. 

DETERMlNAnON.OP  LONGITUDE.  • 

August  17,  1842.— Ahitude  of  the  Snn. 
Observations. 


[243] 


riniT 

SERIEI. 

1 

1 

1 

lECOND 

SERIES. 

Double  altitude  of  the 

Time  of  chronometer. , 

Double 

altitude  of  the 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Sun's  lower  limb. 

1 
1 

Sun's 

lower  limb. 

deg.      min.      sec. 

h. 

milt. 

1 
see.     1 

dtg. 

milt,      sec. 

/(. 

mill. 

see. 

40        03        15 

5 

54 

4d.O 

41 

46        50 

5 

59 

31.4 

40        20        00 

5 

55 

30.3 

42 

01        20 

6 

00 

13.0 

40        35        15 

5 

56 

17.0 

42 

18        05 

6 

00 

57.7 

40        4(3        35 

5 

56 

54.0  , 

42 

38        20 

U 

01 

53.0 

41        17        20 

5 

58 

10.5  1 

43 

50        15 

6 

02 

36.3 

Thermometer  64°. 
Index  error  =  —  32". 
Result  of  calculation. 


.>(«..■«»■? 


Mean  time. 


Retard. 


Longitude. 


August  17,  1S42. — Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  meridian. 

Observations. 


-fan  t»t     '■'•  '  '  ■■v'^7'      ''    i**  '■ 

-  "U/.   >*•    fc-i. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
SuD'a  lower  limb. 

True  central  altitude. 

Latitude. 

dw.      min.      see. 
130        38        15 

d^.     min.      ue. 
60       34       33 

deg.     min.      «c. 
43        49        24 

<■  ^.^^:"il 


fc  s^Ji 


..if. 


» ^  »•'»*,♦*  - 


Hi- 


i 


f 

i 

\ 

k 

<  ■ 

k 


[243] 


148 

Encampment  on  the  Stteet  Water  river. 

DETERMINATIQN  OF  LATITUDE. 

August  19,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Obacrvatimts. 


t«    s*' 


I 


Double  allitudo  of  Po- 

Time  of  chronometer. 

larU. 

dejf.      min. 

sec. 

h. 

min.      sec. 

83        55 

30 

6 

54        33 

83        56 

50 

6 

56       06 

83        58 

20 

6 

58        02 

84        00 

00 

7 

00        09 

84       02 

10 

7 

02        28 

Index  error  =  —  36". 
Result  of  calculation. 


i< 


True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

deg.      min.      see. 
41        58       07 

h,       min.      see. 
8        12       41 

deg,       min.      sec. 
42        22        2i2 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 

August  19, 1812. — Altitude  of  Arcturus. 
Observations. 


PIRIT 

SERIES.         •■    iifi'":     "^ 

■        '  '         •"           RLCOVD 

SERIE". 

Double 

altitude  of  Arc- 
turus. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  Arc- 
turus. 

Time  of  chroQooMter. 

(ill 
6.5 

min.      sec. 

:>i      10 

33        35 
01        40 

h.      min.      sec. 
7        12       03.5 
7        15       30.0 
7        16       57.5 

den;,      min.      see. 
64        15        10 
63        39        23 
63        15        50 

h.      min.     sec. 
1        19       03.0 
7        2i)       37.5 
7        21        41.0 

Result  of  calculation. 


...  ..t., 


149 

Encampment  on  the  Sweet  Water  river — Continued. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIMS. 

August  20, 1842.— Altitude  of  Arcturus. 
enervations. 


[«48| 


W 


1*  I.' 


ide. 


>.      ve. 
8*J 


riRiT  tBiuet. 

IBCOMO  tERIEI 

Double  altitude  of  Arc- 
turut. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time 

of  chronometer. 

dig.      min.      see. 
53        58        00 
53        19        20 
51        17        40 
50        36        30 
49        53        40 

h.      min.     sec. 
7        40        46 
7        45        13 
7        47        59 
7        49        51.5 
7        51        47 

dfg.     min.      $tc. 
48        59       30 
48        38        50 
47        47        00 
47        17        30 
4C       08       40 

8 

min.     ste. 

54  15 

55  38.5 

57  34 

58  53.6 
02       03 

Index  error  =  —  40". 
Result  of  calculation. 


RIC!. 


imc  of  chroooBMlFr. 


Ii.  min.  set. 

1  19  03.0 

7  Srt  37.5 

7  21  41.0 


tuds 


DETERMINATION   OP   L.\T1TUDE. 

*       «    August  20,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of  chronometer. 

laris. 

dtg. 

min. 

sec. 

h.      min. 

HC. 

85 

26 

00 

8        17 

06 

85 

26 

30 

8        18 

52 

85 

27 

53 

8        20 

47 

85 

31 

40 

8        24 

56 

8S 

32 

00 

8        26 

32 

85 

33 

55 

8       27 

50 

85 

34 

40 

8       39 

18 

85 

36 

15 

8       31 

19 

85 

37 

30 

8        32 

44 

85 

38 

50 

8        34 

39 

Result  of  calculation 

• 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

lieg.     min,      stc, 
43        45        05 

k.      min.      sec. 
9        43        02 

dtg.    min.     sec. 
42        31        46 

^k 


m 


[848] 


150 

Eneamptnent  on  the  Big  Blue  riv«rt 

DETERMINATION'  OF  LONOITUDE. 

June  21, 1842.— Altitude  of  (he  Sun. 
Observations. 


rinsT  iiHiB*. 

IBCOKO  ICRIBI. 

Double  altitudo  of  lite 
lower  limb  or  the  Sun 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limbof  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dtx-      wiiii.     sfc. 
43        09        40 
43        36        40 
43        51        101 
.       43        03        40 
43        26        30 

h. 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 

Hlitl. 

SO 
31 
23 
22 
23 

MC. 

15.0 
27.0 
04.5 
54.0 
40.0 

dtg.     mill.      Btc. 
43        44        30 

43  58       00 

44  12       45 
44       29        10 
44       46       00 

h. 

8 
8 

8 
8 

8 

tnin.        we. 
24        39.5 
95        03.0 
95        44.3 

26  97.0 

27  19.0 

Index  error,  =  —  42'. 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


nun.      sec. 
40        27 


Advance. 


h,      niin.      sec. 
1        43        28 


Longitude. 


deg.      min.      see. 
97        06        53 


i^. 


V- 


t;.- 


iti 


^iK 


-r,  nS'i  ^ 


'%  ■' 


■  V*i. 


RIKI. 

ime  of  chronometer. 

h.      tiiin. 
8        94 
8       95 
8       S5 
8       96 
8       97 

we. 
29.5 
03.0 
44.3 
97.0 
19.0 

151 

Ai       .■-  A    .     ..^     .      ^ 

Noon  haWon  the  Swett  Water  river. 


[24»] 


UETEnMINATIOK   OP   LATITUDE. 

August  22,  1842. — Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  merididn. 

Obaervations. 


Double  altitude  of  the 
Bun't  lower  limb. 


deg.      min.     we. 
lid        U8        U5 


Latitude. 


mm.     Me. 
96        16 


Index  error  =  —  40". 


Encampment  on  the  Sweet  Water  river  (Rock  Independence). 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

August  22, 1842.— AUitude  of  Polaris. 
' '        '       Observations.  """''       "^' 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of  chronometer. 

laris. 

deg. 

min. 

see. 

h.      min. 

see. 

84 

19 

30 

6       47 

37 

84 

90 

50 

n       50 

15 

84 

99 

10 

6        51 

37 

84 

93 

30 

6        59 

50 

84 

94 

15 

6        54 

40 

84 

25 

40 

6        56 

34 

84 

97 

45 

6        57 

49 

84 

28 

40 

6       59 

15 

84 

99 

10 

7       00 

24 

84 

30 

10 

7       01 

41 

Result  of  calculation 

• 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

deg.      min.      see. 
42        11        30 

h.      min.      see. 
8        16        33 

deg.      min.      see. 
42        29        36 

[248]  152 

Encampment  on  tht  Sweit  Wattr,  at  Hock  Indepcndence—Coniinwed. 

DETKAMINATION  OP  TIMB. 

Augiut  22,  1842.— AliituUo  of  Arciurus.  ^       * 

Obtervations, 


riRiT 

IIRIII. 

IBCONO 

(■Mil. 

Double  altitude  of 
Arcturin. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of 
Arcturu*. 

Time  of  ehroDomcter. 

dif.     mitt.     wc. 
61       39       50 
60       58       95 
tiO       28       90 
59       45       50 
59        17       00 

h.       mill.       Me. 
7       07        49.0 
7       Of)        14.6 
7        10       35.0 
;        19       30.5 
7       13       49.3 

dig,      mln.     stc. 
58        06        10 
57       99       00 
56       48       50 
55       47       40 
55        18       30 

■ 

h.      min.       itc. 
7        17       00.0 
7        18        59.5 
7       90       30.0 
7       93        15.0 
7       94       34.3 

Index  error  =  —  22''. 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


8 


nun. 
37 


see, 
06 


Longitude. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 

August  23,  1S42.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations. 


FIRST  SCRICS. 

(ECOND   SERIEI. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dtg.      min.     see. 
39        18        35 
39        34        10 
39        40        30 
33        00        30 
33       15       90 

h. 
5 
5 
5 
.5 
5 

min. 
98 
98 
29 
30 
30 

stc. 

06 

48.7 

33 

00 

40 

deg.      min.     sec. 
33        33        50 
33        48        :)5 

33  58        95 

34  08        30 
34        35        30 

h. 
5 
5 
5 
5 
5 

min. 
31 
39 
32 
33 
34 

!te. 

36 

10 

37 

05 

18.5 

—Continued. 


lilt. 


m«  Qf  ehroaomeUr. 


. 

min. 

ne. 

17 

00.0 

16 

59. S 

90 

30.0 

93 

15.0 

94 

34.3 

ude. 


IIEI. 

me  of  chronometer. 

ft. 

min. 

ftC. 

5 

31 

36 

5 

32 

10 

5 

32 

37 

5 

33 

05 

5 

34 

18.5 

158 


[«4«J 


^neampment  on  Sortkfwk  of  Platte  riwr,  moyth  of  Sicoti  Water  river. 

DRTKRMINATION  OF  TIMK. 

August  23,  1842.--AUitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations. 


rmiT  iiMii. 

1                                     IKCONU  ICRIKI. 

Dcubic  kltitiidr  nf  the 
HuD'i  lower  iimb. 

Time 

of  chroDometer. 

Double  aUiludc  of  the 
8un'i  lower  limb. 

Time  o' 

chronometer. 

tkX,      iniu.      stf. 
44        il        05 
43        55        50 

43      4;<      :<o 

43        30        .50 
43        17        30 

h. 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 

mill.       Kfc, 
19        43.0 

90  51.5 

91  93.3 
91        .58.5 
99       35.0 

itg.      mill,      tte, 
43        Ul        30 
49        59        10 
49        39        55 
49       97       30 
49        13       50 

A. 
3 
3 
S 
3 
3 

min.     ue. 

93  17.4 
83       43.4 

94  17.5 

94  50.3 

95  97.4 

Index  error  =  —  22". 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 

Retard. 

Longitude. 

It.      min.      «c. 
4        45        94 

ft.      min. 
1        99 

$te. 
35 

fiS- 


DETERMINATION  OP  LATITUDE. 

August  23,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time 

of  chronometer. 

lari«. 

<Ug. 

milt. 

see. 

h. 

min.     sec. 

64 

9«) 

00 

6 

49        55 

64 

21 

30 

6 

59       90 

84 

99 

15 

6 

53        04 

64 

94 

20 

6 

55        14 

84 

25 

20 

6 

66        39 

84 

96 

30 

6 

57        56 

'     84 

28 

10 

6 

59        28 

64 

98 

95 

7 

00        .59 

84 

30 

20 

7 

02        29 

84 

31 

10 

7 

04        13 

.»fe»J^i'/,,^ 


u 


T 

Restilt  of  calculation 

• 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

titf;,      min.      stc. 
49        19        50 

ft.      min.     see. 
8        92        08 

dtsr.     min.      see. 
«       27        18 

[24S] 


154 


Encampment  on  North  fork  of  Ptittte  river,  mouth  of  the  Slv^et  Water.'^ 

CuniiiKuJ, 

DRTKNMIN^TlnN  OK  t.oNnlTl'DB.  , 

Aiigimt  33;  1842. — Distauce  from  ilie  iieron;!  linil)  of  the  Muon  (o  Jupiter. 

(Wi(h  (he  circle.) 


■*.,  • 

Obaervalionn. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Appareut  dbtent-«!. 

1, 

h,       mill. 
7         4.1 

7  59 
2         M 

•  Ul 
6          05 

•  14 

8  90 
f         94 

•  99 

ue. 

17 
54 
.'M 
58 
43 
35 
35 
50 
99 
90 

rfrf.      mtfi,      Ml.            \^ 

1. 

1 

,       ■   .  V. 

810        59        10 

Result  of  calculation. 

True  diilMOf. 

Meantime  at  Greenwich. 

Longitude. 

rfiff.     min. 
«        10 

• 

IM. 

38 

h.       min.    Mt. 
IC       41       91 

if%.      v\i%.      uo. 
107        40       00 

, 

Noon  halt  on  Horseshoe  creek. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITBDR. 

August  30,  1842. — Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  meridiao. 

Observations. 


Double  aUi;u<le  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 


112 


min. 
38 


sec. 
35 


Latitude. 


dtif. 
49 


mm.     lee. 
24        94 


Index  error  =  —  I'  30  \ 


hj^et  Wiftr.— 


[oon  to  Jupiter. 


< .    ..^ 


da. 


Me. 
00 


dian. 


see. 

24 


155 


[943] 


Eneamptnttkt  on  thn  Uft  f>nnk  of  tht  \orth  fort:  tf  tk^  PMte  riwr. 

IIKIKHMINATION  Of  LATITVOK. 

Septombor  4,  1812.-  Altitude  of  •  Aqnilon  in  the  meridian. 

Ob.serwttiotu. 


Double  altilmle  of    u 
Ai|uilw. 

Truafthit'ida. 

Udludw. 

dtg.      min.      %ff. 
113        W        80 

dta       m\n.      we        i       dig.      min.      Ht, 
50       an       M               41       54       34 

Index  error,  =  —  I'  30". 


Encampment  on  the  right  bank  of  the  North  fork  of  Platte  river f  Jive 

mites  above  Chimney  Hock. 

DETERMINATION  OK  LATITl'DK. 

September  5,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
•  Observations.  . 


Double  altit  ido  of  Po- 

Time of  chronometer' 

laris 

dtg.      mill. 

ate. 

A.      m<H.      ut. 

84        l-i 

00 

11        07        03 

84        14 

50 

1 1        10        43 

84        17 

90 

11        1)        55 

84        18 

50 

11        16        3'J 

84        91 

50 

11        90        50 

'II  f 


Index  error,  =  —  1'  30". 
September  5,  1842.— Altitude  of  «  Aquilse  in  the  meridian. 

Observations. 


Double  altitude   of  a 
\quila3. 


dtg. 
113 


mm. 
30 


stc. 
40 


Latitude. 


df^,      min.      sfc 
41        43        36 


! 


t«4S] 


IM 


Emrnwtpment  on  Ih*  r'mhl  bnnk  «/  Ikr  Swthfork  of  Ptmtni 

of  A»h  crnli, 

DBTRRMINiTION    or   l,*TITlfnr. 

iSrptcmbet  H,  184'i.— Aliilude  of  I'ulnm^ 
ObttrvatioHt. 


l>«ultlc  altitude  of  Pu> 

Tim*  of  chronontlar. 

Iftrtt. 

• 

J?- 

wHit. 

Hf. 

k. 

mitt. 

ue. 

4'J 

uo 

II 

10 

JO 

8 

41 

10 

II 

IH 

M 

44 

&0 

II 

41 

07 

» 

4i 

30 

II 

93 

'JO 

B 

4C 

f4) 

II 

'H 

57 

M 

4« 

iU 

II 

86 

5U 

w 

49 

SO 

II 

•W 

30 

•s 

5U 

(10 

II 

.10 

II 

«• 

61 

40 

II 

31 

41 

63 

A3 

40 

11 

33 

m 

Thermomeler,  70°  .3. 

Index  error  =  —  1' 32". 

ReauU  of  calculation. 


rf. 


a: 


.True  altitud*. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

dtf.       mill.      ut. 
41        50        57 

h.       min.       ire. 
9        19        51 

dig.      min.     $tc. 
41         \6        19 

September  8,  1842.— Altitude  of  a  Aquiloj  in  the  mcriditu. 

Observatiotis. 


Double   altitude  of    a      Tnie  rentral  altitude. 
\(juilx. 


dtg.      min.       ne. 
114        35        10 


dfg.      mill.      iie. 
57        11        15 


Latitude. 


dtg.      min.      fee. 
41        16        19 


V.  «  s^'". 


»^ 


157  [  U%  ] 

DKTBMMIIKATION  OV  LATItlDK.  a 

ticptom^jcr  9,  1819.— Aliitudsof  l*olaru. 
(Jburvatwu. 


Doiibla  ■Itlliida  of  r«>> 

— -^^ ^^«« 

Tlm«  of  e|irofl4a«ltr. 

Imi*. 

83       3« 

ut. 

k.       mtn.      ttf 

Ai 

11         13        Stf 

83        3fl 

10 

II         16        S-J 

H3        4*1 

W 

II        9l>        01 

83        43 

'JU 

II        83        II 

H3        46 

UA 

11        it:        33 

,l»t'.'  i< 


Indox  error  =:  —  T  32". 
tietvit  of  calculation. 


Tnn  mltitud«. 


4n~     Min.      iir. 
41       M       48 


Utilinh 


41 


14 


44 


19 


rridiao. 


9,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  meridian. 
ObsTvatiow. 


e  alUmde  of  ih« 
«a'i  loarer  limb. 


aip      3 


n.       Mr. 

3t{       80 


Latitude. 


% 


milt. 
14 


17 


Thermometer,  94°. 


tte. 
1» 


■  '  It 

■'  I?' 

1: 


[248] 


158 


Ematnpimnt  tit  the  Junction  of  the  North  and  South  forks  of  the  Platte^ 
2,700  feet  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

UETEUMINATION    OP    LATITUDE. 

September  12,  1842. — Altitude  of  a  Aquilec  in  (he  meridinn. 

Observations. 


Double    altitude   of  n 
At|uilae. 


dtg.      mill,      see, 
114        48        50 


True  central  altitude. 


Latitude. 


deg,       min.      sec. 
57         23        09 


deg.      min.      see. 
41        04       S26 


Index  error  =  —  1'  20". 

DETERJIINATION  OP  LATF  UDE. 

Sep'enibev  13, 1S42. — Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  meridian. 


Double  altitude  of  the 
Sud's  lower  limb. 

;True  central  altitude. 

Latitude.    . 

dig.      min.      sec. 
104       51        35 

deg.      min.      sec. 
52        40        22 

deg.      min,      sec, 
41        05        07 

Thermometer  70^. 


Enca 


Double  a 

Sun's : 


8 

36 


159 


[248] 


of  the  Platte, 


Encampment  at  the  junction  of  the  North  and  South  forks  of  the  PUUto 

river — Coniinued. 


sridinn. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

'*'*       September  13, 1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 

Observations. 


see. 
26 


ridian> 


'Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dig.      min.      ste. 

min. 

sec. 

IU4        42        20 

46 

17 

104        45        25 

48 

16 

104        49        00 

51 

13 

104        50        10 

53 

23 

104        50        35 

54 

40 

104        51        25 

56 

37 

104        51        10 

58 

49 

104        50        20 

59 

35 

104        49        45 

2 

01 

03 

104        48        20 

2 

02 

35 

104        47        28 

2 

03 

17 

104        45        UO 

2 

05 

16 

104        43        50 

3 

06 

03 

104        43        05 

2 

06 

60 

104        41        45 

3 

07 

29 

I 


sec. 
07 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 

September  14, 1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
'*"      '    Observations. 


FIRST 

SERIES. 

SECON-B  SERIES. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of 

c'urouoineter. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

4^.     min.     see, 
37        23        10 
37        04        10 
36       50        30 
36       36       40 
36       33       30 

h. 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 

min. 
26 
27 
27 
28 
29 

sec. 

22.5 

14.3 

53.5 

30.5 

08.3 

deg.      min.     sec. 
36        11        20 
35        57        05 
35        43        40 

Interrupted 

h.     min.       uc. 
6        39        40.4 
6        30        18.5 
6        30        56.0 

by  clouds. 

Thermometer,  60°. 
Result  of  cmlculation. 


Mean  time. 


h.      nun. 
4       28 


ste. 
40 


Longitude. 


1248] 

'I 

Noon  Itali  on  the  lefr  hnnk  tt^  the  Plattf. 

DETERMINATION  KfV  LATITI  DK. 

September  10,  1843. — Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  meridian. 

Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  the 
Su(>'«  lower  limb. 

True  central  altitude. 

latitude. 

dtf.       mid.       icr. 
1(W       54        IS 

rf<!f.      min.      »«. 
51        41        44 

dt3(.      m?«.       wr. 
4U         54        31 

Indc.v  error  =:  —  1'  17' 


Encampment  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Platte  river. 

DETERMIN.\TION  OP  LATITt  DE. 

September  16,  1812.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double 

altitude    of 

Time  of  chroaometer. 

Polaris. 

d<'p;. 

mill. 

fee. 

h. 

min. 

Iff. 

83 

08 

Hi 

U4 

35 

83 

10 

40 

07 

41 

83 

12 

25 

10 

44 

83 

14 

35 

12 

50 

83 

15 

40 

14 

41 

Q'o 

17 

15 

16 

21 

83 

IV 

30 

18 

04 

83 

1;. 

40 

20 

26 

83 

iil. 

40 

24 

07 

83 

23- 

35 

26 

38 

•V  -*r« 


Index  error  =  1'  17'. 
Result  of  calculation . 


True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

/(.      mill.      sec. 
41        36        23 

k.      min,      sec. 
9        16       55 

(leg.      iiiin.       see. 
4U        52        34 

161 


[  2«  T 


Encawpnient  on  the  left  bank  of  Platlc  riper— Coniiiiued. 

DKTKRMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 

Scplembcr  10,  1842. — Altitude  of  Arciiiru3. 
Observations. 


riRsT  si:ric!<. 

SKCOND  ICniEI. 

Double 

altitutle 

turns. 

of  A  re- 

Time of  chronometer. 

Double 

altitmleof  Arc- 

turus. 

Time  of 

chronometer. 

ie.^. 
.'•.(J 
4!) 
47 

>iiiii. 

5f) 

OS 

sale. 
40 
40 
10 

/i.       mill.      sec. 
!>         17        24.5 
9        22         18.3 
!)        25        26.5 

4tj 
4(> 
45 

min.      sec. 
55        50 
02         )5 
10        20 

h. 
9 
9 
9 

mill.      viT. 
2S         12. -.J 
30        35 
32        51.5 

Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

h.        min.      see. 
7          27        27 

h.       min.      sec. 
1        5d        41 

w 


£243]  162 

Encampment  on  the  left  bank  of  Platte  river — Continued. 

DETKRMINATION  OP  LONGITUDE. 

September  16,  1842.— Distance  from  the  first  limb  of  the  moon  to  Jupiter, 

Observations. 

*    (With  the  circle.)  y  — 


1 


Time  trf  cnronomcter. 

Apparent  distance.                ^ 

h.       n 

9      : 

in. 
6 
•^ 
6 
>2 
.8 
)3 
)G 
0 
4 
8 
21 
25 
28 
JO 
13 
15 
17 

to 

»2 
15 

ue. 

57 

34 

36 

19 

51 

40 

44 

'^1 

28 

19 

57 

49 

13 

li 

56 
45 
54 
25 
3T 
11 

(kg.      mill.     sec. 

9        -I 

'",...            "..'"* 

9        -1 

9      : 

» 

9      ; 

•••• 

10        ( 

•••••••••••••••••••• 

10        ( 

!•••*••••••••••**•••• 

10        1 

10 

r                                 *** ' 

10         ] 

10        '. 

10 

10 

1 

10      ; 

10      ; 

10       . 
10 

1. !....!!'. '.'.'.'. 

li.., 

10 

1 

10 

1 

10 

1     837        45        50 

Tliermon 
Result  of 

icter,  55°.o. 
calculation. 

True  distance. 

Mean  time  at  Greenwich. 

Longitude. 

lies.       »»'"•      >ec. 
42        07        42 

h.          V 

14 

in.      !Kc. 

'ie      30 

dtg.      min.      sec. 
lUO        23        45 

163 


[243] 


nued. 


on  to  Jupiter. 


-V'- 


Encampment  on  the  left  bmnic  of  Platte  river— Conunuei], 

DETKRMINATION  OF  TIME. 

September  17,  1842. — Altitude  of  Arcturua. 
Observations. 


kudc- 


|i.      sec. 
45 


riRiT 

SERIES. 

1 

ICCOND 

SERIB*. 

Doublf    altitude    i>f 
An-turus. 

Time 

of 

chronometer. 

L)3uble    altitude    of 
Arnlurus. 

Time  of  clironoDieter. 

dfK. 
37 
'(5 
;t4 

inin.      yrc. 
10        40 
■26        4;) 

Ati       4r, 

h. 
9 
9 
9 

min. 
4M 
53 
55 

•rr. 
5(i 

30.5 
15 

3t 
33 
33 

wiiu. 
02 
08 
25 

...       .  ^ 

tec. 
15 
50 
20 

/.. 
9 
9 

10 

fiitn. 
57 
59 
01 

sec. 
23.7 
46 
44 

Result  nf  cakulat 

ion. 

Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

> 

• 

^1.       min 
7        58 

41 

h.       ruin,      fee, 
1        57        25 

DETKRMINATION  OP  LATITUDE. 

September  17, 1842. — Aliiiude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of 

ciironomeier. 

laris. 

lUg. 

min. 

wc. 

[A. 

nun. 

r,ec. 

8i 

14 

00 

10 

14 

3G 

82 

16 

10 

10 

IG 

37 

82 

17 

40 

JO 

19 

35 

82 

19 

50 

10 

21 

55 

82 

21 

45 

10 

25 

12 

82 

24 

45 

10 

27 

50 

82 

27 

25 

10 

31 

48 

82 

30 

00 

10 

34 

51 

32 

34 

50 

10 

40 

50 

82 

39 

50 

10 

47 

44 

Thermometer  55°. 

Index  error  =—]/  18". 

Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


deg. 
41 


mm. 
10 


sec. 
36 


Latitude. 


dcg.      mill.       ,«fe. 
40        4-4        'M 


[  248  ]  164 

Noon  halt  nf  September  18,  on  the  left  hank  of  the  Platte  river. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITinE. 

September  18,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  uicridinti. 

Obscrvatious. 


Doulilc  altitudt 
Sun's  lower 

i  of  the 
iinib. 

True  cciitrul  altitude, 

Latitude. 

dtg.      min. 
lUl        49 

sec. 
50 

df^.       min.      sec. 
61         09        29 

deif.       mm.      ntc. 
40        40        21 

Index  error  =  —  I'  32". 
Tliermonicter,  90^. 

i  1 
I 


4'i; 


4i 


Noon  halt  of  September  19,  on  the  left  bank  (f  the  Platte  river. 

DETERMINATION  OP  LATITUDE. 

September  19,  1842. — Altitude  of  (he  Sun  in  the  meridian. 

Observations. 


[  Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 


True  central  altitude. 


Latitude. 


ite^.      min.       sec. 
101        04        30 


(/f?.     mill.      sec. 
50        4(1        49 


df».      mi  PI.       lec. 
41)         39        44 


Index  error  =  —  1'  32". 
Tlt.Mmometer,  80°. 


NdQH  li9it  of  'Stptember  20,  on  the  Iff  I  Lank  of  the  Platte  ruer 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

Sepien.ber  20,  1842.— Aliiuide  of  the  Sun  in  the  meridian. 

Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  the 
Sun's  lower  limb. 

T 

rue  central  altitude. 

Latitude. 

dtg.      min.      sec. 
100        UO        4.5 

des;.       min.     sec. 
5«          14      56 

deg. 
40 

min. 
4S 

sec. 
19 

Ir 

Tl 

.  error  =  —  I'  3 

lermomeier,  77^. 

2". 

tp  river. 


ridinn. 


Me. 
31 


2tlc  river. 


eridifin. 


-IT. 

44 


Uittc  riier 
leridian. 


idL'. 


in.       sec. 
J8        ID 


165 

Encampment  on  the  left  bank  of  Platte  river. 

<        DETEIIMINATION   OF  TIMR. 

'  September  20,  1842.— Altitude  of  Arctutus. 
Observations. 


Double    altitude    of 
ArcturuD. 


dtg,      min.      »tc, 
m        39        &U 


Time  of  clironometer. 


h.       mill.     tte. 
9        U4        31 


Index  error  =  —  1'  32". 

DETRRMINATION  OP  LATITUDE. 

September  20,  1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time of  chronometer. 

laris. 

dtg.      min. 
8§        05 

sec. 

h.       min. 

MC. 

10 

9        19 

49 

83        08 

30 

9        34 

03 

fe3        15 

15 

9        31 

51 

83        17 

50 

9        36 

39 

83       30 

40 

9        39 

35 

Thermometer,  66°. 
Result  of  calculation. 


7'rue  altitude. 


h. 
41 


mm. 
04 


sec. 
54 


Latitude. 


[243] 


i       . 


40 


min. 
54 


KC. 

02 


[343] 


166 


Encampment  on  the  left  hunk  of  IHnttc  river,  ten  mild  Mow  (Sranii 

isiant/. 


■  * 


DKTKRMINATION  OF  TIME. 

September  21,  IS42.— Aliiiude  of  Arcturus. 
Observations. 


riKiT  naKiBi. 

1 

lECOKD 

>KKte« 

Uoultio  altitude  of 
Arcturus. 

Timei 

>f  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of 
Arcturui. 

Time 

of  chronometer. 

Jf^,      mi/i.    Mf. 
50        03        55 
1'J        15        30 
4S        01        50 

h. 
8 
8 
9 

min.        ,vr. 
5.'>        09.5 
57         16.7 
00        34.0 

1 

dr3(.        mIn.      MtK 

47        05        95 

46        16        5S 

,       43        3fi        50 

h. 
9 
9 
9 

mill.        'te- 
03        03.7 
05         15.0 
07        Ol.O 

Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  timx?. 


Adrancc. 


dt^.    yn\n.      sec. 
7        07        54 


longitude. 


mill. 
53 


90 


DETERMIN:*TIO\   OF    LATITIDE. 

September  21,  1S42.— Aliitutlc  of  Polaris. 
'       Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  Pcv 

Time 

of  chronometer 

laris. 

de?. 

miu. 

aejc. 

h. 

min. 

S'C. 

S-2 

25 

.-50 

9 

10 

56 

8-i 

27 

45 

9 

12 

51 

82 

29 

20 

9 

15 

43 

83 

31 

40 

9 

18 

07 

89 

34 

00 

9 

20 

51 

89 

35 

15 

9 

S3 

30 

89 

37 

45 

9 

S4 

15 

82 

37 

40 

9 

35 

47 

82 

40 

00 

9 

28 

13 

82 

41 

00 

9 

30 

00 

Thermometer,  51°. 
Result  of  calculation. 


below  Grand 


tc« 


nc  of  chronometer. 


I.  mill.  tc. 

J  03  03.7 

!)  05  15.0 

J  07  01.0 


idc. 


r    167  [  248  ] 

Soon  ImU  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Platte  river, 

DKTF.n.MINATION  OF  I,ATITrl>E. 

September  23,  1842.— Alliuide  ofiho  Sun  iti  tho  mcridini. 

Observations. 


Double  altitude  of  the 
Hun'i  lower  limb. 

Truo  ciMitrul  altituJo. 

Latitude. 

-  >« 

rftf.      mill,      itc, 
H       37        05 

(/rif.      milt.      if«. 
i6        33        04 

der.       mill.      Ht. 
41        80       90 

1 ' 


1 1 


Index  error  -  —  1'  32". 

Thermometer,  80^. 


Rrtcampment  on  the  left  bank  of  the  PlaUe  river,  ttCMr  the  Loup  fork. 

DCTBRMIBIATION  OP  LATITVDE. 

September  23,  1842 — Altitude  of  a  Aqtiikc  in  the  meridian. 

Observations. 


Double    altitude    of  a 
Aquiloi. 

True  altitude. 

Latitude. 

dtg.      mill.      sec. 
114        1^        10 

de<(.      min.      uc. 
57        04        43 

dex-      mill.      ue. 
41        93        53 

Index  error  -  —  I'  32". 


de. 


see. 
38 


[848]  168 

£ncamptntnt  on  the  hft  hank  of  the  Plattfi  ^  httr,  at  the  month  <"'  th* 

Loup /o/ A.  -Coiiluiucd, 

DETKIIM I  NATION  OK  TIMK.  * 

September  26,  1842.— AUiiiulo  oi  .he  Sun. 

Obacrvatioiii.         ,  . 


£nn 


IIRIT  IBNIIt. 

»IO»MO  IfKIKt. 

Douhir 
Sun's 

■Ititudc  of  Um 
luwcr  limb. 

. 1 

Time  uf  chruDoinctcr. 

Duulilx  iiltitudo  of  tho 
Hun'*  luwcr  limb. 

TImp  I'f   hron«itn<<i 

40 
40 
40 
40 
41 

min.     ut. 
19       50 
97        95 
3@       35 
59       95 
04       00 

h,     Min      ut, 

9        3ij        94.6 
9        39        06.0 
9        3!)        40.9 
9        40        19.5 
9        40        59.8 

rfff.     min.     ut, 
49        (M        45 
49       19      r>u 
49        9fi        )0 
49        30        55 
43        49       95 

;»        43        19.7 
9        44        10.0 

9        4f        49.0 
9        4..        20.0 
1/        45        j«i.0 

Index  orror  -  —  1'  32". 

Thermometer  73^. 

Obseivation  indifTerent. 

RtsuU  of  calculation. 


Me^n  time. 

Advance. 

hongituilc. 

k,       min.       nc. 
7         50         14 

A.        min.        ite. 
1          59          00 

titouth  <     th' 


u. 


w of  'hronomf'tr 


iinn. 

Vf«. 

»        43 

19.7 

44 

10.0 

t        4' 

49.0 

t        4.. 

QO.O 

>        45 

.lli.U 

IW 


[248) 


m 


£iKam/i  >ietU  on  .  <  '•//  Livik  '/the  I'taU    iiwr/,ar  /A«  moui/i  of  th*  /^M^p 

/«/•/•.— Coiiiinunul. 

DKTICRMI.VATION  OF  LATITCDK. 

Sepiemb«r  lirt,  1842— Alllindi-  of  iho  Sun  n«ar  tli«  mcrsdiati. 

f}lkfmtitiou9. 


O'xibie  •llituda  of  tbo 
Hun  I  l«w«r  llutb. 


?!■ 

!)4 

i>4 
94 

<t4 


M 
00 
01 
09 
04 


ate. 

f'> 
3U 
45 
15 
00 


Time  ofchronomctrr. 


rniii. 
•M 
30 

3i 
»-.2 


17 
13 
41 
17 

04 


IdU'  I  iiptcd. 


94 

06 

;i) 

1 

35 

sa 

94 

10 

(»0 

1 

37 

19 

94 

11 

65 

1 

39 

34 

94 

lii 

35 
Inltrr 

1 

upted. 

40 

49 

!t4 

Of) 

95 

1 

48 

3ii 

94 

0(i 

25 

1 

r,\ 

39 

94 

05 

&0 

1 

iU 

-ii 

Thermomeier,  81°. 

Index  error  =  —  I'  32". 

Result  of  mlculation. 


True  altitude. 


iUg.     nun.       'tt. 
47        20        4« 


Ad»tnce, 


h .      mill.     ftc. 
1        51        56 


Latitude. 


dfg. 
41. 


inin. 
Q-2 


03 


^  ft  V 


.^ 


^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


^ 


^^ 


>* 


.V^ 


.^> 


^A 


4^ 


^ 


4; 


1.0 


1.1 


lii|2£  |2i 

|30   ^^"      !■■■ 

|22 


ja  liJ    1121 
St   L£    12.0 

u 


u& 


1^  iJ4  U4 

•4 

6"     

» 

HiolDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporalion 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)873-4303 


^ 


[248] 


no 


Noon  halt  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Platte  river. 

DETERMINATION    OF  LATITUDE. 

September  28, 1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun  in  the  meridian. 

Observations. 


''% 


Double  altitude  of  the  Time 

>  of  chronometer 

lower  limb  of  the  Bun. 

t 

min. 

$te.            k. 

min. 

see. 

49 

30      1 

9y 

09 

93 

45 

45      1 

31 

33 

99 

47 

50      1 

33 

49 

99 

49 

00      1 

35 

35 

99 

49 

30      1 

96 

55 

99 

•50 

10      1 

38 

50 

99 

49 

95      1 

41 

29 

99 

48 

45      1 

49 

39 

99 

48 

15      1 

43 

33 

99 

47 

90      1 

45 

10 

99 

46 

10      1 

46 

18 

99 

44 

35      1 

47 

51 

99 

41 

90      1 

49 

51 

Thermometer,  76°. 

Index  error  =  —  1'  32". 

Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


Mean  time. 


Latitude. 


.s" 


.•;«* 

K 


■■!<!■, 


1? 


f'.l     • 


■•*—•'•-■ 'A-*-'!**^*.    -^— i.  *^  "V**"^, 


tver. 


i  meridian. 


171  [  248  ] 

Encampment  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Platte  >iW,  at  the  mouth  of  Elk 

Horn  river. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

September  28, 1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 

Observations.  t 


■«•! 


Double  altitude  of  Po- 

Time  of  chronometer. 

laris. 

dtg. 

•nin. 

ue. 

h.       rntti.      see. 

H 

05 

95 

10       41       47 

84 

07 

30 

10       44       03 

84 

09 

90 

10        46       57 

84 

.10 

40 

10        48       45 

84 

09 

50 

10       50       94 

84 

11 

15 

10        53       99 

84 

12 

55 

10        54       9.1 

84 

16 

90 

10        57       OS 

84 

15 

55 

10        58       53 

84 

15 

55 

U        00       37 

Thermometer  54^. 
Index  error  =  —  40". 
Result  of  ceUcuUttion. 


litude. 


True  altitude. 


dig.     min. 
49       04 


see. 
93 


Latitude. 


dts,     min.     see. 
41       09       34 


1 

4 


\i 


:| 


I    : 


Ij 


l^} 


172 


JBneamptiunt  on  the  hft  hank  of  th»  Piatte  river,  at  the  mouth  of  th 
•  Elk  Horn  river. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 

September  28, 1842.— Altitude  of  •  Lyra. 
Obscrvatione. 


Double  altitude  of  o 

Time  of  olironometer. 

Lyrae. 

dtg-     min. 
99        10 

f(e. 

k.      min.     Ht. 

80 

11        84       36 

96       33 

10 

11        86       83.7 

97       46 

80 

11        88       83 

9C       53 

40 

11        30       58 

96       09 

30 

11        33       56 

Thermometer,  84°. 
Index  error  =  —  40". 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


A.      min.     sec. 
9       39       25 


Advance. 


h.      min.     ue. 
1        49        15 


».!!'...-    (<;l« 


Longitude. 


■■:'         t 


f  t/u  mouth  of  (Kt 


rtt. 


jongitude. 


178 

Encampment  on  the  h/t  bank  of  the  Platte  river. 

DETERMINATION  OP  I.ATITt  DR. 

Sepiomber  29, 1842.— Altitude  of  Polaris. 
Observations. 


[MtJ 


Double    altitude    of 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Polaris. 

dtg.     niin. 

wc. 

/l,          llltH. 

MC. 

H3        40 

30 

10       91 

37 

83        4J 

35 

10       94 

90 

83       44 

10 

10       96 

37 

83       45 

05 

10       98 

46 

83       46 

00 

10       30 

51 

83       48 

00 

10       J3 

19 

83       50 

40 

10       35 

94 

83       53 

45 

10       39 

41 

83       53 

50 

10       41 

ii 

83       54 

40 

10       43 

18 

•     Tliermoineter  40°. 
Index  error  =  —  1'  38". 
Result  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


dtg.     min.      see. 
41        52       05 


Latitude. 


dtg. 
41 


mm. 
09 


15 


.,ii^,u':.:::i'>^--   f. 


>Urrr, 

-.. 

■t. 

'^i 

■'•■ 

A- 

» 

'>, 

■P 

t 

•    V 

V 

'  I 

i 

♦f^ 

^< 

,■  f' 

:•- 

1 

t 

,i: 

!•*■ 

i 
i 

..J 

»« 

1  ^ 

i'i. 

\ 

ti 

V-  ■ 

*5-- 

1;/ 


[248]  174 

EncatnptMnt  at  RcUevue,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missouri  river,  at  the 
traUing  post  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 

DRTERM1NATI0N  OP  LONOITUDK.  , 

October  2,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
, '  Observations. 


riMT  IBRIBt. 

iceoHD 

IBRIIt. 

IHxiblc  ultitiulc  of  the 
Hun'i  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Uun'R  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

dtg.     min.     Mt. 
48        99        45 

48  48        90 

49  09        10 
49        90        50 
49      au       10 

A. 

19 
10 
10 
10 
10 

min. 
07 
08 
0« 
09 
10 

see, 

07.5 

04.0 

00.  (> 

49.8 

10.5 

dtg.     min.      ue. 
49        49        95 

49  59        00 

50  05        00 
.50        IS        05 
50        94        55 

h.      min.        ue. 
10       10       49.8 
10       11        18.6 
10       19       00.4 
10       19       30.4 
10       13       0U.0 

Index  error,  =  —  1'  38". 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 


h,      min,       see. 
8-      91        41.5 


Longitude. 


dtg. 
95 


mm. 
47 


ue. 
46 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

October  2, 1842. — Alliiude  of  the  Sun  iu  the  meridian. 
'  Observations. 


Double  altitude 

of  the 

Time  of  chronometer. 

lower  limb  uf  the  Sun. 

dtg. 

min. 

uc. 

h.      min. 

$(C. 

89 

68 

10 

1        39 

56 

89 

.58 

55 

1        33 

35 

89 

59 

90 

1        34 

20 

90 

00 

05 

1        36 

07 

89 

59 

55 

1        36 

55 

89 

59 

45 

1        38 

31 

89 

59 

40 

1        39 

39 

89 

59 

10 

1        40 

97 

89 

59 

10 

1        41 

17 

89 

58 

95 

1        49 

26 

89 

57 

30 

1        43 

91 

89 

55 

20 

1        45 

52 

Encat 


48 
48 
48 
49 
49 


ouri  rtv«r,  at  the 
ny. 


tBRIEk. 


Time  of  chronometer. 


h. 

min. 

ue. 

10 

10 

49.8 

10 

11 

18.6 

10 

19 

00.4 

10 

19 

30.4 

10 

13 

00.0 

gitude. 


\in,     tee. 
i7        46 


eridian. 


175  [248] 

Encampment  at  lielUvue,  on  *he  rigU  bank  of  t/it  Miuouri  river,  at  the 
trading  pest  of  the  American  t\ur  Company— Continued. 

UETERMINATION  OK  LONGITUDE. 

October  3,  184^— Alliiude  of  the  Sun. 


nt 


•  KCOKD  lEMIII. 


Double  altitude  of  the 
BuD'i  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Bun't  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

rf«/r-      min.     tie. 
39        49        UO 
39        99        40 
39        07        30 
38        56        30 
38        45        50 

h. 
5 
5 
5 

K 

5 

min.      we, 

33  13.0 

34  19.3 

35  16.9 

35  48.3 

36  19.0 

deg.     min.     tee. 
38        34        55 
38        93        90 
38        10        00 
37        57        35 
37        46        10 

h,      min,       see. 
5       36       ftl»a 
5        37       95:8 
5        38        03.8 
5        38        40.0 
5       39        13.7 

Index  error  =  —  1'  38". 
Result  of  calcnlation. 


DETERMrNATlON  OF  LONCIITUDE. 

October  4,  1842.— Altitude  of  the  Sun. 
Observations. 


riRST 

lERIKI. 

kBCOND  SEtlCI. 

- 

Double  altitude  of  the 
Suo'b  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
SutPg  lower  limb. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

<fc^.      min.      fee. 
48        11        10 
48        SB        30 

48  43        50 

49  00        10 
49        09        05 

h. 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

min. 
10 
11 
11 
19 
13 

sec. 

20.0 

14.0 

57.3 

51.0 

19.0 

dfg.      min.      sec. 
49         16        50 
49        23         45 
49        30        30 
49        37        00 
49        45        05 

A. 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

min. 
13 
14 
14 
14 
15 

see. 

49.0 

04.4 

99.6 

46.9 

11.0 

Index  error  =  —  1'  3.5". 
Result  of  calculation. 


Mean  time. 

Advance. 

Longitude. 

k.      7nin,      see. 
8         23        17.6 

h.      min.      sec. 
1        49        53.2 

deg.      min.      sec. 
95        47        46 

fe) 


[  S48  ]  176 

Hmctmiptnntt  at  lieUevue,  on  titt  riff/U  bank  nf  the  Miaaouri  river,  at  tho 
trading  poet  of  the  American  Fur  Compani/. —L'onunwetl. 

DRTERMINATION  Of  LATITCnE. 

October  4,  1842. — Sui*t  aliiliido  in  lite  mcridinn. 
Observations. 


Double 

alUludo  of  the 

Time  of  chronomeirr, 

Bun'i 

lower  llntb. 

dig. 

win. 

Mt. 

h.       mitt. 

wc. 

M 

SM 

lU 

1          98 

91 

W 

M 

30 

1          33 

93 

bS 

9ft 

AO 

1          31 

14 

W 

m 

4S 

1          3A 

97 

88 

86 

4ft 

1          38 

II) 

•     8«!l 

27 

9ft 

1          40 

US 

8d 

96 

4U 

1          41 

47 

88 

S6 

00 

1          44 

93 

68 

9ft 

4ft 

1          43 

Of. 

88 

94 

9ft 

1         44 

ft'J 

88 

9a 

40 

1         46 

98 

fS 

91 

40 

1         47 

'il 

88 

19 

30 

1          48 

44 

Result  of  calctilation. 


Tnte  altitude. 


Mean  time. 


LatituJp. 


.!/•,■■>     <     ■  r-l 


-!'•'. 


fit 


,.■;:,, 

'             r 

Vfi*; 

'.*f* 

( 

-'. 

r  \ 

' '  • 

K- 

4i 

Cf 

1      .    ;■!. 

1 

,\  k 

i 

^  * 

1    i<   I 

,t  <:. 

^t 

(11 

^  <'■'-. 

v^l 

«j 

'  .   '  ■ 

4,y- 

r  = 

0' 

>K 

t «. 

«;'' 

'•<: 

aui 

i 

1) 

■  \l 

'11 

■:Vi 

'   '^-  ■ 

'»•'?;  'I-. 


<fl 


10 'T" 


<  I 


i<j?^/iil' 


I'V«  htil.\ ->*■».  I    V,     'i\ •  ■  •<,ii'»^ 


■'\i 


fin, 
!t 

.  i' 
it. 


"^ 
« 


>;»        1 


uri  river,  at  tho 
Uoniiiuted. 


ion. 


177  [  84S  ] 

UncamptMHt  on  the  h/t  hmtk  of  Mittouri  river,  oppo»Ue  to  the  right  hmUe 
ty  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  rirer. 

DKTBRMINATIUN  OF  LATITVOE. 

October  4, 1843.— Altituile  of  Polariv. 
Observations. 


.1  .i..>w 


lituiir. 


Dmiblr 

altltudr 

olPo- 

Time  of 

rhroaumtler. 

larii. 

*;r- 

min, 

xtc. 

h. 

min. 

.wc. 

H4 

11 

10 

10 

il 

94 

H4 

11 

50 

10 

5.1 

St 

H4 

14 

M 

10 

S6 

31 

84 

16 

ao 

10 

M 

47 

»4 

IH 

iU 

11 

03 

54 

.S4 

XO 

(M) 

11 

U^ 

4(1 

84 

'M 

9.1 

11 

OT 

31 

N4 

91 

3U 

11 

10 

54 

H4 

9.1 

40 

11 

U 

14 

84 

94 

SO 

11 

15 

15 

Thermometer,  Oy-\ 

Index  error  =  —  l'  21". 

iUsult  of  calculation. 


True  altitude. 


6tx.     mm.       te. 
i'i       07        '1> 


Latitude. 


41 


imn. 
02 


19 


12 


•nh  IJ' 


at' 


41 


366,-'"^^■ 


m 


•k'.    ■''     I  4't''V  •        ''''i  < 


.*^ 

.>-» 

•(>. 

R/>tl 

•  ;>i'-» 

.1 . 

'\ttr 

"^ 

w'l 

.-,£ 

ut 

ft^ 

ci 

<f 

Ci.'     • 


?>ll-1 


•»t»fl[ 


i«!<p 


[^M]  178 

BncMmpmtnt  tm  the  right  kink  of  th»  MiMouri 

ORTERMINATION  OK  LATITUDE. 

OclotMr  0,  184:^.— AUilude  of  Polarii. 
Obtrrvationi, 


Di'iibla  ■Ititudfi  of  Pix 
Urto. 

Time  of  chrooomeUr. 

tiii      9t<      on 
»2       311       on 
19       Vi       40 
M        »A        10 
M        37        40 

*. 

9 

U 

0 

0 

U 

37       9rt 
40       M 
43        55 
47        SI 
SI        13 

,  ;■       '  Thermometer,  09<>. 

Index  error  --  —  1'  21 

licsu/t  of  cdlculalion. 

/( 

True  altitude. 

Mean  time. 

Latitude. 

lUg.      mm.      $ff. 
41        14        37 

h.       mill.      ffe. 
7         5a       3U 

dfg,      mtn.      Hf. 
4U         34        08 

1 

jVoon  hah  ui  Rcrtliolct's  island,  Missouri  river.  * 

-     -  •       DETF.UMIN.XTIOX  OF  LATITIDK. 

October  6,  1S42. — Altitude  of  the  Sim  in  the  mcridinn. 


Double  altitude  of  the 
Sud's  lower  lim'u. 


«<*y.      mtn.      h(. 
^         16        5& 


Latitude. 


dff.     tnin.      ttc. 
4U        27        08 


Mm 


Duti(il( 


Hi) 

0il 


Index  error,  =  —  1'  35". 


170 


[948] 


Eittamprntnt  on  M«  Itft  bank  of  Iht  Misaouri  r{i'«r,  mouth  of  Ifif  Sinhna- 

haiona  riv9r. 


•%ver. 


UKTKHMINATION  OF  TIMK. 

Oclob«r  ti,  184'3<— AUUudo  a  Aquilu*. 
Ofn«rvQtioM. 


riMT 

•IRIBI. 

IMtllD 

IRIIWI. 

DuUblr  nitllude  uf  « 
AqullB. 

Time  « 

)r  chrunumstcr. 

1 

Double  alUtud*  uf  u 
Aqulla. 

Time  uf  chrunoiualar. 

dig.      mid.      w. 
<HI        07        10 

81)        n        90 

h:)      09      15 

08        43        II 
88        OM        30 

h. 
10 
10 
10 
10 
11 

win.         ItC. 

5         04.3 
5«        40.0 
58        Oti.O 
51)        37.0 

01      an.o 

A^r.     min.     t*e, 
87        &•)        5.^ 
87        00        30 
8n        30        85 

ey     07      00 

05        33        40 

h. 
II 
II 
11 
II 
II 

mln,      ut, 
03        44.4 
01        5'.*.0 
0*1        8Q.0 
07        41.0 
OQ        18. « 

Result  of  calculation. 


lltudc. 


nin. 


lin.      »t. 
34        08 


Mean  time. 


9 


mm. 
II 


Mr. 

50 


I.ongitu(le. 


nin.      *«• 
27        08 


uf 


l»4«] 


180 


Knrmnpintnt  oti  Ih*  h/l  bank  nf  tht  AtiMturi,  tfwntn  nf  n  mitt 

mouth  nj  Suhmibatonn  nvtr. 

Dr.TKRMINATION  Of  LATITl'DK. 

October  0,  1S42.— Altitude  of  I'olarii. 
Ohitrvaliom. 


DouMf  alUiii<if>  of  Po- ' 

TImr  of 

rlirend««l*r, 

laru 

*t 

mid. 

•fi". 

». 

mil*. 

Wr 

(M 

M 

(Ml 

10 

19 

:m 

M 

93 

yo 

10 

\S 

w 

H'i 

94 

9.1 

10 

17 

04 

MJ 

M 

V.'i 

10 

18 

55 

Bi 

97 

3:> 

to 

90 

K 

BU 

97 

4A 

10 

99 

(fi 

Hi 

Tit 

&:• 

10 

94 

CJ 

8'J 

31 

:(5 

10 

97 

M 

HU 

3<J 

.'to 

10 

99 

4ii 

»J 

33 

• 

40 

10 

31 

50 

Thcrinomelor,  47°. 

Indflx  error  •^^  —  V  3A". 

HeauU  of  calcutalion. 


True  allitudr. 

Mean  time. 

Ulitudf. 

41        I'J        03 

h.      mix.      *ft. 
ti       31        33 

40        16        40 

'/ 

-^ 


[848] 


miUtkthmlkt 


KmMm^mtHt  •m  tkt  1^  kmttk  ^th§  Miatouri  riifr. 

UtTKRWillATION   0¥   LATITVOI. 

Oetob«r  8, 1S48.— Altitude  of  Polarii. 
Ottervatiatu. 


1% 


\t\iif. 


16        40 


DoubtokllHudaofPo- 

TtM< 

Iwia. 

H 

min, 

M<. 

mU. 

M«. 

41 

10 

4« 

94 

M 

4t 

00 

49 

09 

ao 

M 

45 

51 

17 

00 

59 

85 

51 

31 

M 

SI 

50 

55 

91 

(to 

54 

35 

59 

30 

w 

57 

30 

00 

39 

M 

57 

40 

09 

94 

HI 

00 

95 

05 

39 

t*l 

OS 

10 

09 

91 

Thermometer,  36°. 

Index  error,  =  —  1'  21". 

RttuU  of  cakuiathn. 


True  tlUtudt. 

Mita  Um«. 

Latitude. 

dig.    min.      tn. 
40        U5        99 

k.     niin.     m. 

e     07      10 

itg.    mln.     Iff. 
39        36       09 

*=. 


,::j^ 


i 


% 


[248] 


isi 


Haft  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ktmzas  river,  700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Qulf 

of  Mexico. 

/ 

DETERMINATION  OF  LONOITUDE.  ^ 

October  10, 1842.— \Uitude  of  the  Sun.  ' 

,    Observations.  * 


PIRKT  IZRiei. 

SCCOKD  SERIES. 

Double  altitude  of  the 
lower  limb  of  the  Sm. 

Time  of  chronometer. 

1  Double  altitude  of  Iho 
lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

i 

Time  of  cltronometer. 

d<ff.      imn,      see. 
39        08        15 
39       a-       50 
39        44        30 

39  57        50 

40  09       98 

h. 
9 
9 
9 
9 
9 

nit)i. 
44 

46 
46 
47 

see. 
35.0 
31.0 
17.5 
59.0 
31.0 

deg.     min.      see. 
40        21        35 
40        31        50 
40        41        00 

40  51        10 

41  00        10 
i 

A. 
9 
9 
9 
9 
9 

win.        "'c, 
48        06.0 

48  36.0 

49  U2.3 
49        310 
49        59.5 

Mean  time. 


h. 
7 


min. 
59 


see. 
09 


Index  error 1'  07 ". 

Result  of  calculation.     .  i 


Longitude. 


91 


w»n. 
32 


see. 
54 


vel  nf  the  Qulf 


UES 

ne 

of  cluronometei- 

h. 

min. 

yrc. 

9 

48 

U6.0 

» 

48 

36.U 

0 

49 

U2.3 

ft 

49 

310 

9 

49 

59.5 

183 


[248] 


5 


Halt  at  the  mouth  oftht  Kanzas  river ,  700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Chtlf 

of  Mexico. — Continued. 

DFTEIIMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

October  10,  1842.— Sun's  altitude  in  the  meridian. 

Observations.  i 


ide. 


see. 
54 


Double  altitude  of  the 

Time  of 

chronometer. 

lower  limb  of  the  Sun. 

des[.      min. 

ue. 

win. 

set. 

87         41 

10 

SI 

Oil 

87         44 

15 

32 

37' 

87         46 

50 

34 

36 

87         49 

50 

26 

07 

87         51 

30 

27 

45 

87         55 

15 

32 

36 

87         55 

30 

34 

05 

87         54 

30 

38 

30 

87         53 

10 

41 

07 

87         51 

15 

43 

11 

87         49 

05 

44 

56 

87         46 

15 

46 

40 

87        43 

90 

43 

35 

87        38 

30 

50 

51 

■*'l 


■f    )-^^ 


Result  of  ealcttlation. 


True  altitude. 

Time  of  transit  by  chro- 
nometer. 

Latitude. 

d^.      mtn.      Me. 
44        13       34 

h.      min.      sec. 
1       35       42 

itf.      min.      sec. 
39        06        03 

f^  The  foregoing  observations  are  given  in  civil  time. 


St 

II' 


II- 


Mi 


'.;> 


.•vRtiA  \j'j;o  iw  w^wi-^  v^  mii\if'<vit^y  ^Wayy^v^^  aAT  iE^ 


!i!: 


•JOt*. 


iU 


■1 


,  (' 


?: 


HKolT 


•,:i 


J     ■' 


187 


[24S] 


REMARKi^. 


The  elevntions  which  huvo  been  given  in  the  courNC  of  the  procfldinir  re- 
port, lire  rounded  upon  the  annoNcd  hitronie(ricul  obHcrvations,  and  it  i;* 
sciuciily  necoMary  to  say  iiro  olForiMl  only  as  ih(>  \wA  indicutionH  we  hnvf. 
The  barometen  were  compared  with  thove  of  Dr.  (>.  Bngolnuui,  of  St.  Louis, 
Miwouri,  whose  observations  nre  given  for  u  cnrrci'pouding  period.  Thn 
following  i«  the  result  of  forty  coinporntive  olmervuiinni)  of  throe  buromoterH 
instituted  by  him  from  May  22d,  to  May  2<.Uh,  1842,  at  St.  liouis.  Rungn 
of  barometers  during  that  period  U".4()(\  (eni[iurntnio  60"  to  75^. 
Uarometer  E,  as  observed  for  and  not«>d  in  the  journal  of  the  academy  : 

»  Fremont'H  Troughton  (T)  —  C".136  »  Frumwil's  Carey  (C.)  —  0".17tf. 

Ronge  in  the  di (Terences : 

Fremont'*  Curey  (C.) 


M««n  E     —  Framont't  Troughton  (T.)  —  0".I36 

Jlinlnum   i  *'  '•    —  U'MIS. 

UximURIaa  "  "      —  O'.lSO 

Range        ».  "  "         0".034  > 


0".179. 
0".|«7. 
0".10O. 
0".093. 


Ill  the  annexed  observations,  the  baronieicrd,  Troughton  and  Carey,  are 
designated  respectively  by  the  letters  T.  and  C.  In  calculation  the  obser>-u- 
lions  at  tlVe  upper  stations  were  referred  lo  the  aiuffie  corresponding  obser- 
vation for  the  relative  period  of  time  at  the  lower  aiatioii.  It  would  perhaps 
have  been  better  to  refer  lo  the  mean  of  the  observations  for  the  month  at 
the  lojver  station.  In  calculation,  the  tables  used  were  those  of  Uessel  and 
of  Oltmanns,  as  given  in  Humboldt. 


>> 


-4'l» 


h       .*S 


Si   f 


-t  t^ 


•i 


ft. 
It' 


t 


,f 


t«4«] 


188 


m 


;j 


.ii 


■it 


^ 


E 

«> 


ss 


t 


IP 
^1 


I 


>t2« 


8* 

11 


^1 
fi 


►^■e-^** 
ll*& 


t 

1 

•s 

.a 


1 

I 


I 


llllj 


ilil  t 


11^  I II  !|-^llll 


sseie?:s:gr!Ssai5K?: ;?;:«:;; 


si  ^  si  8)  si  si  si  si  si  si  si  si 


tilt 


■  no     ^ 


r*  Seiner 


g)S) 


ni.^er^eo'Au^r-ei'Ceeer-s 


sss!:?sto?2S8is:aiSs;:ssis 


S2§§52s^ii=eiiii 


sisssisis^siSiasiSis^sissisiss 


<  a; 


or-      r«  sMoeO'^oooMV 


to     3  cb  u)  o  CO  r>  in  <s  t->  r»  r* 


85s 

I-  00 


ioe5o0»eoa)< 


^9  ssisis^s^sssisiss^ 


:^s  ss  ss  s 

<tu     <b     <<     flu 


9  O  TO  W  TO  TO  TO  TO       TO 


TO  TO  TO* 


i<aDe»A«^t£ea^t«^^«et«ieou^c0G«t«xo     t^aoe«0p4i«<09io^f«- 


•3 

a 


e* 


C9 


3 

•  1 

•  V4 

1 

J^ 

s 

1 

2'8 

•5 

1 

Noon 
Ounp 

Oi 

«     «o 

A    4. 


6  JtO        0> 


1 

1 

>  • 
»  • 

>  • 
• 
• 

>  • 

•  < 

« 

25  T  O  O  M  2  «  ♦  fi 

seeo0>9soto> 

ss  ss  :s, 


5    » 

ci>    4.  ^- 

fi      s 


a.     a> 


I 


189 


.P.J 


Uf 


ally's 


1^. 

oQ<    cat 


,.  Til 


iaShS 


«        Ji 


wSooSSiSr-      ('i2<>i0<2vs 


o 

d 


i 


!-•  I-  *  t-  I- 


8 


irt 


^usasiii     3$     Si 


o>f»mo>nse     nsssso 


CI 


w 
« 


«5  •'. 


Ox     .S 


I 
I 


[848] 


f 


^:: 


."'-^ 


I  848  ] 


190 


1 

J 

I 

Q 


C 
O 


"a 

i 


h 


i 

! 

V 
N 

I 

! 

I 
! 


H 


I 

I  III 


eeo 

Hi 


s^.n 


ftcr 


O  O  r> 


s 


1  « 

■Si 

■3 


§ 


K»,  * 


'-ecus'* 


M  >o  w  91  r^  QQ  <0 


9t 

2 


I 


§s 

ja  o 

s  s 

O  la 

S50 


I* 


■3*s 
55  y 


5g} 

1:8 

O   3 


o  3  o  9 

sisi 


^ 


s 

3 


O 

a. 


o  s 


^•3 

la 


■  do      ffl&S   •oS^S 


so     ui  00  ?•  e  00  •/>  a 

;S3  QQi3S?iris 


00     eSo&9)e><^ 


CO     >/)  m  (0  oi  !>•  CO  ve 


^ 


a 

3 


o 
a. 


Vi   Q 

1(3 


191 


[«48) 


^sad 


(,'  o  ae    u  u  S  iJ 


ess  !  !  I 

333  :  :  i     . 

oope*  1 

00   I   •  (to     eoejineotps   tO 

fj   !   {   tiij      M  9»in  in -•  w  a»-«   •» 
lO   •   •  •«     *^o«oio^»m   •«» 


usQooooMocii.'s     ©mrorswoifl     eoo     tAvinotnc^aoooi     M«-;«i-.pc»s»^»op 


^  Vi- 


lest 


ao«M 


:  :     ::::::  :a  :     .a  :  :s  :s  ::  : 


S  > 

;i 


I? 


jr 


s; 


^ 


16 

•»  a 
o  s 

«  o 


a 


o 

S 

n 
U 


Si 


4i 
§ 

•a    - 

s  i 


t.  s 

2 


H 


O    3 

it's 

550 


[«4«] 


192 


)'. 


1 

.s 


I 


i5 


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} 

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f 


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I?! 

5^1 


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! 

I 
1 

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tn  s 


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1 

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1 


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m 


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>eosoo     me     onntA 


•  •  • 


"ft«  •  •  •  • 


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-  -,         •    •    •    • 


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41 


7 

CI 

3 


e 
a, 


O         3 

a      o. 

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a 
o 


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